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Oh wow that’s a beauty, somewhat repotted a bit high in the container that’s for sure, perhaps it may need a new container but it will have to be a deep container. Repot it up to the base of the palms, there are a lot of roots exposed there. Whoever repotted it last was way off getting it correct, mind you though it’s an interesting feature the way it is. I suggest a deep container but one that’s not too wide. I don’t know how much of a root ball it has, but it definitely needs a bit of soil around those roots!

Absolutely beautiful that’s what it is!

Bizzy update: We have something emerging other than brown. Its not green or silver, but at least its not brown. Continuing to monitor its progress. And yes, those are frisbees in the background. I will pick them up and move them, but the dogs like to put them back there, so I guess thats just where they will be lol

The older flush that it is holding was stunted compared to prior flushes for some unknown reason. The other one has longer leaves and I think this new flush will go back to normal. The Encephalartos laurentianus on the other side of the wall really sets the bar though. As it's flush gets a little further along I will remove the older leaves as they are getting progressively more horizontal. Too much spread on the old flush.

Heres mine from last year. This damage occurred after a historic snowstorm, which dumped 7-10 inches at my location and I had an ultimate low of 12F. Despite full cold protection, the fronds still burnt to a crisp. First photo is from April 17th, 2025. They were still recovering from spear pull at this point. I had not cut anything yet. By May 4th, 2025, I had cut as much dead stuff off that i could. I did cut a lot of green petioles which maybe i shouldnt have done but whatevs By June 9th, 2025, I had trimmed them again to get rid of the half fronds once it had grown out to a decent point. And finally by November 6th, 2025 they looked the best they have ever looked since planting. The point of all this is, these guys dont need much to make a full and very quick recovery. Plenty of water, fertilizer, and well timed trimming can go a long way.

I got the bulbs from Holland. They're sprouting not on the heat mat, I've saved the heat mats for the Thai Giants. I paid $51.50 shipped for 2 bulbs. Good sized bulbs, too.

I believe the name "heterophylla" refers to the heterogenous leaves, i.e. you will see a good mix of leaves with 3 leaflets, 5 leaflets, and sometimes even entire branches with singular leaves. The leaflets are thick, like a live oak, and oval shaped. There are a bunch of similar looking species in this group, including the ones that are now classified as Handroanthus, so it gets confusing. I don't know that I've ever seen true T. rosea in Florida but from inaturalist photos it looks like it has big clusters of flowers on mostly leafless branches, more like Hadroanthus heptaphyllus. H. heptaphyllus is the other 'pink tab' that's commonly planted in Florida and it's easy to identify with consistently 5-7 (hepta) leaflets which have toothed margins. This one is more cold hardy as it's native to roughly the same region of South America as Copernicia alba - down to at least 30 degrees south in Argentina. I have no idea why it was split from Tabebuia. Tabebuia rosea is a Mexican species, but many of the photos on google for that name are from nurseries and websites selling the two previously mentioned species, possibly one of those mistakes that gets ingrained in horticulture because its just a nicer name for a pink flowering tree. Photo is Hadroanthus heptaphyllus

@Skenny i zoomed in on your photo, and the only white powdery stuff I could see was either tomentum or ramenta. Is it just the white stringy stuff? That shows up naturally as stringy white bits. It's generally on the midrib of leaves on Roebellini, but sometimes on the edges of leaves too. Sometimes it looks like a bug. The leaves in the photo might be just cold damaged, but also twisty like a boron deficiency. If future fronds grow out distorted then I'd add a little boron in addition to the fertilizer.

jax beach …pic taken fall 2024, no damage xmas freeze 2022, 70% burn feb 2026 freeze.

Time to plant some boulders.

Hoo boy. I bought 3 bulbs from them, Hawaiian Punch and White Lava. I bought 2 off of eBay and one off of the blue box store website (it was $10 cheaper there). Their feedback seemed good, they promised a one year guarantee, they promised "climate controlled shipping," so I felt safe. One sprouted. These are not the most expensive bulbs on the planet but they're not like Walmart caladiums either. Since I bought from 2 sellers, I contacted them directly. They asked for photos and I showed them the sprouting bulb from them, as well as others, as well as some overall shots of my grow room. I'm far from an expert, but I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing. They ghosted me. A week with no replies. Had they just sent me the replacements then and there, as they said they would, I'm cool. Chalk it up to the game. So a week goes by and I file a return claim with eBay. Look at that! Now I get a response! I could go on and on and on about this, their initial shipping was lightning fast, but unfortunately they've unleashed my inner Karen. I'll just leave it at that.

I'm germinating some Redemption bulbs right now and I haven't been this excited about a new plant in a looooong time. Are you going to start from bulbs or starter plants? I can dig and see where I got my bulbs from, I got them for 50% off, but I can tell you to avoid Garden State Bulbs at all costs.

You should have some open real estate for some new stuff at least. Crossing my fingers for a few that look like they can eek out a win.

I think the folks above hit it on the head. Welcome to PalmTalk!

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I haven't tried any Colocasia, but Alocasia 'Regal Shield' and 'Calidora' do well. Regal shield has purple undersides but Calidora is completely green. That Pharoah's mask is pretty attractive if it will work here. Xanthosoma sagittifolia is easy and has really huge leaves, but again not colorful. The top leaf in the photo below is around 3.5' long and they're still getting bigger. It's a bit weedy, new plants pop up in the area all around the original one pretty frequently.

Thanks very much, yes my garden is cold, but frost free.

On the SW side of the house there's another bigger Elaeis Guineensis, this one is a "Whole Leaf" mutant. After pruning this one had quite a few green stems, and a double spear that feels still solid. I have more hope for this one... The new spears are brown and look D-E-D but they are still firm....we'll see!

Yes, I thought the same thing. More evidence about how the general public view palms. Palm = pinnate palm. I was impressed that the dentist named his/her practice after a Texas native palm even if the picture isn't accurate!

At this point it looks like all of the crownshafted palms are D-E-D. There's a chance that a couple will make it, but really only the clustering ones are going to come back from the roots. Most of them just aren't hardy to the low 20s, and some struggle to survive a 30F frost here. I did some more cleanup tonight in the SE corner of the house. There's a bed that's anchored by a Pygmy Date double, with an Encephalartos Sclavoi x Ituriensis directly in front of it, and a bigger unknown Encephalartos on the left, and a not-really-visible Encephalartos Gratus x Laurentianus behind that. I pruned almost everything out of this bed. I think everything here will survive, despite the burn. I left the Arenga Hookeriana dead stems in place, as the suckers need a bit of shade. I'll chop those later, after the Pygmy grows a few more leaves. Just to the left of the Pygmy Dates (on the other side of the pathway) is an Elaeis Guineensis burnt to a crisp, and on the left a similarly toasty Arenga Pinnata: After pruning the Elaeis had a double spear pull with a rotten bottom, so it's chances are very slim. I poured about 8oz of hydrogen peroxide down to fill the entire bud. This seemed to kill off the bud fungus in two Bottle Palms, so I'm trying it again here. You can see it has one frond with a green rachis/petiole...everything else I cut off was dead and rotten inside.

I haven't done drenches of anything yet on any of the trees. I did cut the one much farther back today and that's when I saw all the white powdery looking spots all over the fronds and the darker brown and bronze looking colors on the green that is growing, which made me worry that its all infected now or something. My one tree now looks closer to yours in terms of how it got trimmed so I guess I'm headed in the right direction.

This plant needs to be potted up badly. I'm willing to sell this plant for $1100. Socal pick-up only, or perhaps I can meet some of you out of towners half way (within reason). This plant will be put into a box the first weekend of April and will no longer be available for this price. 9+ X 9+ inches of caudex, super blue, sex unknown.

@Skenny I personally wouldn't bother with a copper fungicide at this point. The only real risk (IMO) to the palms is a crown rot. If you've done a crown drench of hydrogen peroxide, copper, Daconil, or Mancozeb, then it's just going to take a while to grow out. Spraying the whole palm with copper might not be any benefit, and copper fungicides are phytotoxic in big doses. I'd mark the newest spears with a sharpie while miraculously avoiding getting skewered by the thorns. If it's moving, you are in good shape. As far as pruning, that's pretty much what I did to my double in the backyard this evening. I cut any totally dead fronds. I cut the ends off of ones where it was green rachis/stem/petiole. I just picked a spot a few inches further out from where it went from green to brown. This is before: And after: I left the top ones on the left trunk, even though the ends were totally dead. That's only because I didn't really feel like getting out a stepladder to reach them.