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The most important thing when controling the red spider mite is to consider that it will develop a resistance very soon so it is important not so much what active ingredient is used but to rotate more than one. I use at the very Early outbrake Exitiazox by Sumitomo, that has a long lasting effect (relatively) on eggs and the larval stage and when I see that the adult population is increasing I will switch to another miticide like abamectin, white oil or even a rubber alcohol. The red spider might only needs two to three generations to become resistant. Only the white oil will always kill the eggs and the adults but you need to hit them directly because it works only with direct contact.

Zuckers.

Have no fear. Once the growing season fully gets underway, that palm will outgrow all the battle scars.

You forgot head lice treatment 🤣

I think I've figured the I.D. of the remaining two original post broms. The grey bloke flushed pink in the sun and is I believe Aechmea pineliana. The red spotted one looks a lot like a cultivar of Neoregelia marmorata. They perform a suitable explosion out of the gelignite box!

Fascicularia bicolor looking fancy today. Growing next to its fellow Chilean, a young Jubaea. Pup for scale!

I heard that. If I was still working I'd only have the dozen or so plants in my bedroom still. The only protection I did was threw some Styrofoam boxes when we had a 14° night and I think that's about as far as I'm willing to go. I'm not climbing a ladder to wrap an 80 foot tree, I'm not building mini greenhouses, I'm not getting Xmas lights and running cords and thermocubes and blankets. Everything I'm gonna plant out is either capable of surviving or a perennial or I know it's compost. Everything else can stay in pots.

I just get the beard trimmer and go nuts. And I always come up with jokes when people say something - allergic reaction to Taco Bell, I used a cheap shampoo, I'm boycotting the shampoo industry, etc etc

They're not too bad, $20 or so plus free shipping plus a free plant. My first order they also sent me a coupon for a free banana. I got a Red Dacca in November and it's as tall as I am now, but like, I'm also really fortunate that I've got that whole grow room to play with too. But I absolutely pinky promise that anybody who owns a Basjoo has pups that they absolutely want to get rid of 😂

A few more goodies across the bench! It will be interesting to see what the dasyantha turn out to be. And I know the diospyros are a pretty rare tree around my area!

Go for it the kojak look would suit you!

I was hoping somebody on here would have some to sell to me or something, those prices are pretty steep for me on there 😭

Thanks good to know they stay viable for a while, next batch I might some.

Looks like you did very well. Glad to see other areas with success stories. Orlando gets browner by the day unfortunately between the freeze and the drought.

Yer I think he’s @palmtreesforpleasure body guard, you know those mafia gang members!

During the summer, house stays around 72 or 3, except when the AC is shut off between 3-6PM.. In the 3 hours it is off, have had the thermometer reading 84 -86 by the time the air comes back on at 6PM. Part of that is not having enough tree cover ( for now ) to provide shade to the west side of the house thru the afternoon.

I was cleaning bananas for spider mites - I mean there's just nothing I can do, there's 10 butted up against each other under the better lights - anyway, I hack off any dusty leaves or wherever I see webbing cuz who cares? It'll grow back in like 3 days. Anyway, I missed and decapitated this Mekong Giant and I guess I hit it in the exact right spot, because within literally hours it was pushing this new leaf.

Ravenala is not as cold-hardy (to be more accurate, chill-hardy) as Strelitzia nicolai. You might be able to get S. nicolai to grow up in the Brookings area in a perfect south or west-facing winter suntrap, but I have a feeling it would grow slowly. Also, isn't there a lot of wind there? That would be a consideration...if so, under protective canopy and up against a sheltering wall in the lee of the prevailing winds. But you should probably forget Ravenala or Phenakospermum. Reports from people who grow Phenakospermum seem to point to it being even less hardy than Ravenala. I used to think Ravenala was not much more tender than S. nicolai, but folks in the Bay Area have posted saying they can't get Ravenala to survive an average winter there. Maybe someone has done it, but I believe there's an entire level of difference between the Bay Area and southern Oregon, even if you could rate Brookings as 10a.

Wonder if it pushed open a new frond since the freeze although I suspect it wouldn't be so green. One down the road from me has the same thing.

Oh buddy the plan is to grow them up for quick shade. I KNOW they're sacrificial. I just need to keep them alive for about 6 or 7 months. Anyway, in addition to these flowers, there's a couple old beds of her flowers, a butterfly bush, and soooo many crape myrtles.... If I felt better I'd love to go out there with a reciprocating saw and a wood chipper and clear up everything that's grown up around them

It's time for me to shave my head again. It's refreshing.

After a week of nice temperatures looks like winter is coming back. Tomorrow we are supposed to get snow, I don't even know how much I've seen maybe 10 different maps today ranging from 1-3 inches, to 10-12 inches, I've checked different weather apps some of them say it's snow and some of the other ones say it's a winter mix so who knows. But thankfully it will be in the mid 50s by wednesday

@guidetta you could easily prune back any branches heading over the fence, and aggressivelt trim the leaves touching the tiles. Personally I would never let branches or leaves touch the roof, just to avoid trapping moisture or any risk of physical damage. Tiles are tough but not invulnerable. If the surveyor doesn't even know that the plant is not a palm, then that's pretty discrediting on their opinion on what should (or must) be done. I am no expert of Cordylines, but as I understand it they grow fairly straight down taproots that don't particularly spread horizontally. The horizontal roots are a fine mesh and generally not destructive.

Welcome to Palmtalk @RinnaPalm! Agree, it's Chrysalidocarpus lutescens (areca palm). I guess you plan to keep it in a pot. I just bought one myself - they do best with filtered sunlight so it seems like you have a good spot for it. Make sure that the soil drains well and that it doesn't sit in water. It's a clustering palm (like the cat palm) so it will produce additional stems as it grows. With the number of thin stems it's likely that your pot contains multiple young palms. Good luck with it!

Good point...had forgotten that fact.