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Hydriastele gibbsiana is very high up on my wishlist. Never seen seed available or even really spoken about anywhere in cultivation. Still never grown Ptychococcus lepidotus but would like to try. Other than that, there’s a few highland Calamus species that would likely grow well in our climates, but still not too many others from >2000m. Palms of New Guinea is a good resource which has a nice summary I’ve attached. The Heterospathe sp are interesting.

Paul I grew it from seed in 2010

How old do you reckon that one is Troy?

I'm guessing that the soil in that spot is pretty alkaline and the hybrid has lots of Butia genes. I had a similar problem with a pure Butia in San Antonio. Three other Butia in the backyard grew normally but one in the front grew slowly and with yellowish fronds similar to yours.

TYSM, I got him back in November. Abused in February and now hes good. I keep my place at 86F, give them steam sessions throughout the week and good lighting.

At Mounts:

I believe it is a C. ekamani:

In an area full of Copernicia's:

The palm didn’t miss a beat with the move… Seems equally happy in its new location. Both the old and new locations see a lot of sun (the new location slightly more sun than the old). I haven’t tried it in either of my two “worst of the worst” spots for sun, but it seems fairly sun tolerant to me (within reason). Likely similar to lutescens in that regard, but more cold tolerant (as in fewer “fried” looking fronds coming out of winter). Here’s a snap I just took at 9:30am this morning…

@iDesign Stacey, it looks like your lafazamanga did just fine with the transplant? I'm growing some of these that I may end up selling at some point but am also hoping to keep one for myself. Seems like yours is growing well and hasn't been fussy with seeing a good deal of afternoon sun if I'm not mistaken?

Picture of the general area with the sick palm circled!!!

Just took a close look at the picture and I have 2 1gph emitters on it a far cry from the shrubblers I had on it with 21/2 acres I have beyond crazy water bills so I have been going around trying to reduce water usage!!

Thank you!! I water like crazy the palm had 2 shrubbler drip nozzles on it and it seemed really wet so I thought I would just put regular drip emitters on it but hasn’t changed anything! I admire the work you put in your garden! I have 21/2 acres and my plants don’t get any extra care my royostones grow great and a few feet from that palm is a huge Bismarck palm and a nice beccariophoenix but that palm just doesn’t grow I planted it in 2022 from a 15 gal and it just sits there I generally don’t fertilize but this year I did fertilize all my palms that was a big job!

the difference is soil is massive in terms of growth. I have adjusted my soil with top mulch every 18 months or so and I also added 2 tons of turface MVP for water retention. The turface is more recent(started 4 years ago) they use it here on golf courses to limit drought damage. I have palms that had their soil ammended with 10-15% turface in the planting hole. Those plants initially had some deficiencies as the calcium pores absorbed Mg, but after about a year they reacted well. RTurface is sintered clay with massiv esurface area/lb and microbes dont eat it like they do organics. Palms that do better in the hot and dry for me have either genetics that do well in such conditions or they have moist soil due to ammendments and also shade to slow evaporation from leaves and soils.

Searching for a couple young seedlings if possible. If seedlings are not available, I’m interested in purchasing a few seeds as a last resort. Thanks in advance!

I would think some soil amendments and mulch to help it retain moisture. That looks awful dry there . I’m sure the desert heat in summer and fall don’t help. Most palms want a regular deep watering . Even here in a more temperate region , my palms are in a fast draining , almost constantly moist soil. Harry I have posted this pic of my Roystonia before . This is the newly amended soil prior to fertilizing and wood chips . This is done at least once a year. The Syagrus to the left still has the wood chips . I go through copious amounts of bark and top soil mulch. I use a claw to work it in to the drip circle allowing water to penetrate the surface and the bark or wood shavings to help keep the soil loose on the surface.

@Mazat Beautiful , so lush and green. Harry

I have a palm that I got as a Jubea Butia Sygrus hybrid it is the slowest growing palm I have ever seen and never looks very good does anyone else have one of these and if so what are you doing to make it happy mine is in full sun close th a Jubea that looks much better than the hybrid appreciate any help!!!

You probably already know this but I will post here for others. If the plant came from seed then it is not the tissue culture form of E. v. Maurelii' that is distributed here in the U.S.. so may or may not get to the tissue culture level of color. Ensete can be propagated by seed of course and by tissue culture (the popular form of propagation for these) but also when the plant is larger the trunk can be cut off just above the ground level and then the central growing point can be destroyed. Then the plant will produce small plantlets on the corm. It is the way E. v. Maurelii' was propagated before tissue culture became widespread. This is not the same as musa species producing shoots off the corm.

wonderful, Garrett 🤗

We can only report here on two Trachycarpus fortunei that are thriving in partial shade in a marshy area next to a pond belonging to friends of ours in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley. They look good

That really surprises me too; I have to agree with doomsdave. Unfortunately, ours died in the observation room—she had plenty of water and warmth... It's sad.

It’s definitely worth it if you can do it yourself, and it’s certainly fun, even though it does take time and effort, of course. Great work, Richard 🤗—Sabine and I are thrilled.

Not a palm tree, but our loquat. While the surrounding Cfb zones by the sea are still in their early spring dormancy, my loquat tree began a massive growth spurt around March 15. As you can see in the photo, the velvety, bronze-colored new leaves are already several centimeters long and are sprouting with incredible vigor. This early start (about four weeks ahead of the regional average) fits perfectly with my nectarine blossoms, which also burst into bloom around March 11 or 12.