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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2024 in all areas
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14 points
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6 points
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I just planted mine. It was a three gallon just starting to go pinnate and getting roots out the bottom, so i decided to get it established sooner than later. Fast grower, but im finding many palms grow roots much faster than the spear grows. I placed it in the edges of the forest canopy about 20 to 30 feet from the house.6 points
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As summer and the heat arrived to Hungary I will post some pictures of my garden 😁 Palms and plants that I have planted outside: Phoenix canariensis Phoenix Sylvestris Butia Capitata Brahea Armata Sabal Palmetto Trachycarpus fortunei Trachycarpus fortunei x takil Chamaerops humilis Syagrus Romanzoffiana Rhapis excelsa Washingtonia Filifera Cyathea Australis Dicksonia Antarctica Cycas Revoluta (and another type of cycas which I have no idea how is it called) Lots of type of yuccas, agaves, alocasias, colocasias and others 🙂5 points
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5 points
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It takes a lot of time to collect palms trying to source them firstly then getting them to live in the climate you have also working out the requirements for some super fussy palms getting it wrong at times only to kill or have it die due to whatever reasons be it cultural or climatic iam always learning and always seeking advice from other growers learning as go my collection is small but I love it it’s a fantastic hobby (or addiction) that I just love palms are my favourite plant in the plant kingdom I first got interested in palms after a motorcycle accident at age 16 having to apologise to the owner of the dog I run over yes the dog lived and I learnt a lesson while in hospital but the owner of the dog worked in a kentia nursery and it started from there🌱5 points
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Hello All, This is my first post on Palm Talk. Please assist to ID these palms. 3 species Locations: First photo - Yambona, Kerema District, Gulf Province, PNG. Altitude approximately 1000m above sea level. Second photo - Yambona, Kerema District, Gulf Province, Papua New Guinea . Altitude approximately 1000m above sea level Third photo - between Kaintiba Apa, Gulf Province and Wapa, Menyamya District, Morobe, Papua New Guinea. Altitude approximately 1500m above sea level. My apologies for the low-resolution screenshots, the original files were too large to upload. Thank you.5 points
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5 points
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Trithrinax acanthocoma is a rare palm in nature in southern Brazil. In my state Paraná it appears wild only in a few municipalities, like Laranjeiras do Sul. It is also a very rare sight in parks and gardens and years ago, even totally absent in nurseries. Nowadays you can find them easier wit a bit of luck. On the other side, the chinese Trachycarpus fortunei, that here are also called "buriti" in nurseries, are one of the the most common palms. Both palms show some superficial similarities, but my humble opinion is that Trithrinax acanhocoma are a A LOT more beatifull then the commonly grown Trachycarpus fortunei palms. The bigger, stiffer and round leaves are a lot more attractive. Depending on the provenance they can be green or more silver green, specially the abaxial side of the leaves. My first buriti-palito palm I saved from the chainsaw 24 years ago. It was growing in a garden in the neighbouring city of Ponta Grossa and where it would be removed because of new construction. The owner gave it to me. Later I cultivated palms from seeds, bought several others from different origins. Now I have +- 25 buriti-palito growing in the garden and in and the side of my araucaria forest.4 points
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4 points
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Not sure about the comments about Queen palms mainly being introduced in CA in the ‘80s and ‘90s. As a kid in the early ‘60s, many of my neighbors had large ones in their yards. Some were exceptionally big. As seen in the photos below, one from 1926 and the other more recent, Queen palms have been a staple in California a long long time. I’ve seen them in a few early Three Stooges films from the 1930s and even in a couple of Laurel and Hardy films from the mid 1920s.4 points
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It's pretty easy to ship small seedlings. Use a large padded envelope. Put the seedlings together and wrap the roots up with damp sphagnum moss (or orchid moss). Make sure to wring out the water so the moss is moist and not wet. Completely cover the roots with the moss and wrap it up with some plastic wrap which will keep in moisture during shipping. Then cover the plastic wrap with some aluminum foil to keep the plastic from unravelling.4 points
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4 points
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I have been selling palms online for almost 8 years and no longer have the time so I need to thin out my potted palm stock. Priced to sell quickly. Plants organized into several price categories. Pickup only, Indian Harbour Beach, Florida. No hold requests. Cash or check. PM for address. $5 - Mostly 3.5" x 5" Deep Pots (12) Arenga pinnata (8) Archontophoenix maxima (5) Calyptrocalyx elegans (2) Chambeyronia macrocarpa - Flamethrower var. 'watermelon' (7) Copernicia gigas (5) Copernicia hospita (4) Copernicia baileyana (15) Corypha utan (5) Cyphophoenix nucele (2) Dictyosperma album (3) Dictyosperma album var. conjugatum (20) Dypsis madagascariensis (Mahajanga form) x Dypsis cabadae F2 Hybrid (9) Kentiopsis olivformis (4) Rhapsis excelsia (3) Sabal bermudana (3) Sabal causiarum (2) Sabal maritima (2) Sabal miamiensis (25) Sabal palmetto (5) Sabal yapa (2) Thrinax radiata (4) Washingtonia filifera (4) Wodyetia bifurcata $7 - Mix of 5.5" x 5.5" Square and 1G (2) Baccariophoenix alfredii (2) Dypsis lastelliana "Red Neck" Cocothrinax argentata Coccothrinax miraguama havanensi Cocothrinax sp. (6) Copernicia macroglossa (5) Elaeis guineensis "African Oil Palm" (1) Latania lontaroides Sabal causiarum (3) Saribus rotundifolius var. black trunk Saribus rotundifolius (3) Schippia concolor (5) Pinanga adangensis Pinanga coronata (4) Roystonea regia $15 - Mix or 2G to 7G (3) Attalea cohune (8) Baccariophoenix alfredii (4) Borassus aethiopum (3) Chambeyronia macrocarpa (2) Cyrtostachys elegans (1) Coco nucefria Panama tall (6) Clinostigma savoryanum (1) Dypsis saintelucei (3) Dypsis lastelliana "Red Neck" (1) Howea belmoreana (1) Howea forsteriana (1) Hyophorbe lagenicaulis (2) Kentiopsis olivformis (5) Livistona saribus (2) Mauritia flexuosa (1) Pritchardia hillebrandii (1) Pritchardia thurstonii (1) Sabal causiarum (4) Sabal mauritiformis (2) Sabal lisa (2) Sabal yapa (1)Thrinax radiata $5 - Miscellaneous Plants (2) Cordia sebestena, Orange Geiger Tree (5) Bauhinia tomentosa Tree (3) Cananga odorata, Ylang Ylang Tree (2) Ensete Superbum, Musa Superba Banana (4) Colocasia gigantea, Thai Giant (4) Solandra longiflora Vine (2) Senna ligustrina3 points
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3 points
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Queens like deep soils often in riparian forest. They like the deep "latossolo vermelho" rich in iron but appears also in more sandy more black soils. The better the soil the better they look with big leaves in all angles. ( totally full crown) The climate here is rainy the whole year. ( August is bit drier or sometimes totally dry) . We have +- 1600 mm rain on the tableland and above 2000 mm in the Serra do Mar ( moutain range near the sea) and at sea level.3 points
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Oh yes, the classic palms of So-Cal in general. I'm one of the reasons for the suburban sprawl, along with millions who came between 1980 and 1990. I remember the classic palms of SD and those of Los Angeles, and SB and Riverside and San Bernardino. In the old parts of LA, there were lots of Washies of course, but also queens that were about 70 feet tall along the "Miracle Mile"; and CIDPs on the skyline. Plus tall Trachies and Kings, especially near the coast. I drove along Palm Drive in Beverly Hills a year or two after Eddie Murphy did it as Axel Foley in Beverly Hills Cop, and again a year or two ago, and the palms are mostly still there. And Chilean Wine Palms by Mission SB and in White Park in Riverside. And Phoenix reclinatas in parks all over the place, plus MASSIVE hybrids with CIDPs. Pasadena was full of little old ladies, little old men and lots of big massive palms: queens, Washies, CIDPs, Trachies, reclinatas, even kings in people's yards as well as in parks. There were palmy parks all over the place. And, SD was glorious too, especially since its waterfront was not taken up by development. SD grew at a much more genteel pace, that's for sure. I even looked at a house in O-Side, with a view of the beach for 74K - "it's a mess" the real estate lady said. It was, but I wish I'd have been able to buy it.3 points
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I love my native palm, the "jerivá" that I know so well since childhood. As a young boy, my cousins and I sometimes took our horses for a whole day excursion on our "campos" and forests, and when our supply of food had finished we ate some of the very sweet and "snotloud" fruits of the jerivá palms. It is our most common native palm in my ( 9a ) - 9b region of Paraná, 1030m altitude, southern Brazil, so much it' s also very commonly called "palmeira" ( palm) here. Other names of the jerivá (Syagrus romanzoffiana), are: baba-de-boi, coco-catarro, coqueiro, coquinho-de-cachorro, coquinho meleca, jeribá, pindoba, coco-juvena, coqueiro-pindó, juruvá, jiruvá, jurubá.3 points
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3 points
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The queens are pretty old in SB and as tall as the sky duster Washingtonia’s. When they get tall enough they shed their fronds in big wind events. The Washingtonia fronds are kinda terrifying as they rain down and harder to clean up without getting stabbed. But the thing I remember is the millions of old pits from the queens that would stop a skateboard and throw you over the front and being street plantings the pits are everywhere. Beautiful in SB even with the pits.3 points
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More plantings of the group have been done recently. First Chrysalidocarpus baronii in the shade in the front. Im hoping the spot gets cool breezes in summer and shade much of the year to keep it cooler. Next is the teddy bear (Chrysalidocarpus leptocheilos). This one i had trouble picking a spot i liked with the right amount of sun and ease of access for watering (another issue im having that will be rectified soon i hope). Third is Chrysalidocarpus basilongus, the wild card i'm not too sure on cold tolerance. Since it is smaller too it gets a spot closer to the house that i will see daily (while i watch for the bubblegum pink to appear again). Fourth is Chrysalidocarpus saintlucei, about ten feet away from the basilongus and a but higher for drainage. It was pushing itself out of the pot by the roots so now it can reach for the groundwater. Last is the Carpoxylon macrospermum in the same part of the brightly lit forest area. My hope is good light and some frost protection for them but i will cover them on cold nights anyway until i know how it works here. The one frost last year was not terrible and only really visible on the house and cars; plants had some but not a layer of it. All others have been fertilized and potted up as needed, way faster than i anticipated for some. The Arch. purpurea also has a tinge of color starting to show that is not visible in photos much yet. All around looking good, but palms planted in the ground all get shorter petioles and smaller leaves at least at first. Im hoping they grow out of it, but if not the Bentinkia will be moved back into a large pot unless the fall cool down changes things.3 points
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A local nursery near me which is pretty well much all there is in the way of a large commercial nursery had a nice selection of healthy palms for sale most likely grown in tropical Queensland in spring I will contact the owner and see if he wants a few happypalms with something a little more exotic in store for them but I certainly would love to getting the prices he has on his palms that’s for sure.2 points
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2 points
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Thanks. I have some red in the soil here. It's clay but nutrient rich. I throw Gromulch on top monthly. Yep they love water. Here you can't overwater Syagrus Romanzoffiana during our dry season (May through November). Supplemental water every other day. The more water the faster and nicer they grow. During our rainy season I can get by with almost no supplemental water if its an average rain season because clay holds water very well and the temps are cooler. Our highs are around 65F during winter (18C) with lows 45 to 50F (7 to 10C).2 points
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Could be F. aurea ..or nitida / microcarpa, specimens of which may be growing up in that area -alongside aurea.. Short - leaf Fig, Ficus citrifolia, might occur up there also, though no solid iNat. observations have been made - of that species- north of Bradenton Beach. Remember, F. aurea will have highly visible gold-ish colored leaf veins, which will be apparent, even at a young age. F. citrifolia leaves will resemble those of microcarpa / nitida, ...or even F. benjamina.. If you are able to, might look around within a 2 mile radius for any, more mature Ficus sps. that could be old enough to produce fruit.2 points
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Here's an update: It's been just over a month since the pics above. At this time I now have 7 seeds that have sprouted in that pot and 1 seed in a second pot. The 1st seed that sprouted is now starting to push it's 2nd leaf. The 1st Leafs on the two seedling in that last pic are 7 and 8 inches long. At this rate I would expect to go into winter with either 3 or 4 leaves on these first two seedlings. Here's an updated pic. My cell "phone" camera doesn't do the silver color of these leaves justice ... these leaves are far more silvery then the pics show. - Matt2 points
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In the front NE side I started pruning old fronds from an unknown Phoenix hybrid, possibly Loureiroi or Theophrasti. After being stabbed for the 11ty billionth time in about 10 minutes, I just chopped it all off and dug it out: And just to the left of the above photo there was another big cluster of Rhapis Excelsa, and I found a runner popping up underground 6 feet from the parent culm. That's not acceptable. I have a bunch of clumping bamboos, but they put out new shoots a few inches from the parent culm. I'll never plant a running bamboo here, and I sure don't want a running palm either! Here's the small hole from the stump and the big Lady Palm cluster: On the upper left side you can see the ~6 foot long runner that forced me to rethink having *any* Rhapis Excelsa in my yard:2 points
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I did a huge amount of work the last 2 weeks cleaning up, spraying weedkiller, dousing all the Cycas with Dinotefuran for a scale insect explosion, two whole notepad pages worth of stuff. Some of the big items are finally having a bonfire with the remaining Viburnum branches, and at the same time cutting out the last Sylvester palm. I planted this one from a 7g back in mid 2018. With a 50/50 chance of LB killing it soon, there's no point in having it take up valuable space. Right next to it I had planted some donated Rhapis Excelsa (Lady Palm) and they had started sending out 4-5' long underground runners. So I dug these out before they became too invasive: In the front yard I finally cleaned up the big Bordelon banana clump, and cut up the Agave Angustifolia/Vivipara that bloomed on the right side of the photo:2 points
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When I buy palms from Darold I know I'm getting well grown healthy plants. He did it again. I just received 5 beautiful Chamaedorea glaucifolia ready to put in the ground. Thanks Darold.2 points
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Both W.robusta and S.romanzoffiana suffer from being fast growers, therefore fast cash at the big-box stores. I4-FL and south has seen a similar case with foxtails, except that Woodyetias have gotten frozen back semi-regularly.2 points
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2 points
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They need water, the pygmy's dont have a problem with heat or sun if they get enough water. I agree that when you first plant them it is best in fall, but this time of year they may need water every other day for a couple months. Water more time for a deeper depth and just use a trickle hose or irrigation emitter. The one in the pic, grown in gilbert AZ got 2gph for 5 hrs overnight every 2-3 days in summer, less in winter of course. Don;t make the mistake of a high hose volume and lots of water, depth of wetting in soil depends on time, not flow volume. I might also spray them at the end of the day if its over 105F and dry. Once they develop a good root system, they will be fine. If you want to grow palms in arizona talk to those who have done it. Lookj up local palm talkers like AZtropic.2 points
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2 points
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AngelaKrop, Welcome to the forum.. Both look like they need some water.. While you can plant this time of year, if you do, whatever goes in needs to be soaked 2-3X's a week ..for about an hour to keep them going through our heat and lack of much rainfall up this way so far. Once they have had a year to settle in / get their roots dug in, they won't need quite as much water ..Mexican Fan Palm ( Washingtonia robustra more properly ) especially.. VERY tough palm here. Come late fall and winter, you can reduce watering to a once a week deep soak ( for about an hour ).. While it may still be warm out, soil here retains water for longer during the cooler months. ...So you typically don't need to water as much as right now. Absolutely NO fertilizer ..a common mistake people not yet well versed in planting new palms can make until mid- October.. and only something light ..like Kelp / Fish Emulsion at that time. Nurseries ..the bad ones here, may tell you feeding new palms is ok. Don't take their advise. Next spring, you can feed with something a little stronger. Palm specieal with a nutrient ratio similar to the one below is ideal Ideal Nutrient ratio for palms: 8% Nitrogen, 2% Phosporus ( Plenty of that in our soils. Too much will damage soil ..and things growing in it ) ...and - 12% Potassium ( K ) ..Very important nutrient for good growth, and better tolerance to cold / heat ...Plus " Minor " nutrients ..like Iron, Magnesium, Zinc, etc.. Fyi, just in case, you might be visited by a forum member who might tell you that Pygmy Dates won't grow here / won't tolerate desert heat.. Guaranteed, ...they will do fine, ...though in Casa Grande, you might see some minor damage to the foliage following a few back to back mornings in the 29-27F range -if that occurs down there during a given winter. A note since you're new to the area: Because we're typically pretty dry, Frost is tougher to come by during our chillier mornings during the winter.. Wet day followed by a cold night ( or two ) are when you might consider covering the Pygmy / when frost can actually damage it ..or anything else you might grow that might be a little touchy w/ frost, esp. when younger / newly planted. Dry and mild the day of a cooler night? ..even if it bottoms out at 31-30F the following morning for an hour or two, the palms / other tender stuff shouldn't experience damage, esp. if that occurs only on a morning or two over the entire winter.. We typically warm up nicely after most cool mornings too, which means the window for frost ends once the sun hits X plants on a cold morning ..on 98% of such mornings at least.. Regardless, Lots of big, healthy specimens around where i'm located up in Chandler. Seen some when passing through C.G. on my way to or from Tucson / S. AZ as well ...as long as they get a good drink while it is hot, they'll be fine. Good luck, and feel free to check out the Arizona - Centric thread, dedicated to growing palms here. .2 points
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Hi all, I often read on Palmtalk that palms in pots are not happy long term (bounded roots, lack of fertiliser, too dry and too dark indoors, species preferences…) but I wonder is it really so bad? I mean they don’t just die without any visible reason. Why does my warm loving bizzie seedling grow at all if it’s so “doomed”? What stops it from just dying immediately, huh? Pal meir showed his 40 years old palms, ain’t it possible for any sp. with proper care? Sorry for bad writing, hard question to express even in my native language p.s. want to show you this fat funny Phoenix from Moscow botanical garden (I signed as a volunteer there to get some experience). But yeah, of course his roots go underground1 point
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Thanks for this additional info, as it's something I've not come across before. If I had to guess, several of mine definitely look more like the one you posted.1 point
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