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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/21/2024 in all areas

  1. Try Prestoea acuminata. Amazing palm that really should be grown more in cool areas.
    7 points
  2. Paul, First off, it was a pleasure having you two to the garden! Perhaps try a Chambeyronia in a spot that receives some sun. Maybe adjacent to a south or west facing wall. The picture below is one of my young ones this past January opening a new leaf in the winter’s cool temperatures. Most of my twelve flamethrowers produce three new fronds per year. The slower ones, 1 and half to two. It’s worth a try.
    6 points
  3. I have 3 plants grown from seeds. They grow in the shade of the native ipê- amarelo trees (Tabebuia alba) and get more sun in winter when the trees loose there leaves. Lately there are some suckers forming on the palms.
    4 points
  4. Suh, I do bee-leeve that is a Serenoa repens.
    4 points
  5. A spot of gardening this afternoon in the mild spring weather. Perfect for planting plants. Soil is the key to a good start with my palms in my environment having black sandy loam you just need to amend it a little or a lot. The old saying a $2 hole for $200 plant or a $200 hole for a $2 plant it can vary at times. The magaloni is a tough proven palm already in my garden. The hookeriana have survived winters without a single problem so iam confident they will grow well I just need to add water.
    3 points
  6. I planted a couple of 1g hookeris in full sun a couple of years ago, and they grow at a decent (for SF) pace, although they still sun burn pretty badly. The latest frond opened at the beginning of June and stayed burn free until the recent heat wave. The next spear was 1" then and almost 20" now. I do give them a lot of water. For other smaller palm ideas, Ravenea hildebrandtii has been easy in the shade for me and R. glauca similarly easy in full sun.
    3 points
  7. We have a dry desert climate here vs a wet humid climate that keeps them dormant in the winter. Well drained soil and dry air are key to help them survive. Plus the types of species that are best selected for our area. Washingtonia Filifera do best here. Then Filibusta. Trachycarpus Fortunei do good if you keep them irrigated during the summer months (they do and look best in the Pacific NW). A lot of people used to plant Washingtonia Robustas here about 15 years ago (including me) because big box stores used to sell them. They just aren't as hardy as the other Washingtonia species.
    3 points
  8. 2024 Growing Season Update Just thought I'd post an update at the end of the 2024 growing season here in Accomack, VA on DelMarVa. It looks like the Jubaea chilensis has grown a couple feet since last summer and is now about 6 feet tall. I got tired of bringing 4 large Cycas pectinata in for the winter, so planted them out in the garden the other year. One sprang back at the end of last summer but it was tiny. This year I just discovered another one that has come back -- but just 2 leaves. C. pectinata's natural range is E. Asia - China, northeast India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam. Here in Accomack it would survive outside in a pot until December (so down to 30's°F) when it's leaves would get browned, then I'd bring it in until spring when I'd set back outside. To survive temps in the 20's°F, I think the caudex must be well buried. The ones I had were grapefruit to cantaloupe size and the small caudexes were the ones which got buried deeper and sprang back to life. The Sabal minor var. Louisiana is still growing fine as are the needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix) and Sabal minor 'McCurtain Co.' ecotype. I decided to try some Tillandsia usneoides which I hung out this spring on a saucer magnolia, some crepe myrtles and bald cypressees. It bloomed and now has lots of seed pods. It's been a very dry summer and fall. We are still in a drought with a deficit of several inches of rainfall. The spanish moss looks like it's doing just fine. Will see how it survives the winter. Another plant that likes more water than we get here in Accomack is the Coastal Redwood. In the picture, you can see a large bald cypress in the background with a coastal redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) in the foreground. Both trees are the same age. The average annual rainfall in Accomack Co. VA is 44 inches, but in the native range, the redwood receive 100 inches of rainfall annually. I have two planted, and the one in the photo planted in line with the bald cypresses is near a seasonally flooded low area. It's grown larger than the other planted out in the open in a drier, sunny location. Still both grow just fine, water seeming to be the limited factor in their growth rate here. They are less stressed by drought than either Leyland Cypress or Arborvitaea (Thuja).
    3 points
  9. A nice little batch of seeds. Customs is the only delay really in getting them fresh from rps 7 weeks wait for customs Australia that’s not good for a living thing losing viability from the day it’s harvested. There excuse was they had a backlog not a lot you can do except phone calls and emails. I finally got some dypsis confusa, masoala Madagascariensis, Areca Montana, and geonoma mooreana. The mooreana and the confusa had started to germinate it took that long in customs. All were sown in coco coir perlite bottom heating 30 degrees Celsius and using etoliation method. A few months time I will know what I have germinating I hope.
    3 points
  10. Harry it gets full morning sun, afternoon shade. Most of its life it got little to moderate water. Now I give it quite a lot of water especially when it is warm to hot. It likes being watered!
    3 points
  11. My plant originally came from Floribunda palms here on the Big Island. It was grown from seed that was collected at a local garden here. Some of the seed came up different and showing hybrid traits. But all was collected from a Decipiens. I have seen the parent plant myself. There is a large multi trucked Chrysalidocarpus next to the Decipiens in the garden that seemed the most likely candidate for what it crossed with. I’ve posted a picture of that palm earlier in the thread. Floribunda sells palms to California nurseries which is how some of these made it out to other collections (like @iDesign). Others bought directly from Floribunda like I did. Hope that helps. Also, I can’t speak to other plants shown on this thread that didn’t come from Floribunda originally.
    3 points
  12. I have one I planted in about 2005. It was as a seedling. It stayed very messy looking until a few years ago. That was when I trimmed it for the first time. After trimming it looked decent! Restarting this thread made me go and revisit today! The first two pics are before I trimmed it up. The next three are after trimming. It's starting to look special to me! The underside of the leaves is very silvery! The last pic the snips are there for scale. I will turn 67 next month so if I live to 100 it will grow from special to spectacular!!! Randy
    3 points
  13. About as Texas as you can get. Whataburger and Palms.
    3 points
  14. My Dypsis Madagascarensis hybrid finally getting a ring Just noticed Ptychosperma Elegans ringing
    3 points
  15. Send seed immediately please...I'll send you a courier pigeon!
    2 points
  16. I bought this plant a few days ago and have run several identify checks from 2 apps and both of them told me that it is a robusta with one app giving me a probability of 67% but I am still not satisfied and have this doubt in my mind that this might be something else so here I am asking for your commments.
    2 points
  17. I purchased y first shovel at age 18 4 handles later it retired. It had worn out that much it was only 4 inches long with a big scollop shape. It finally cracked in the middle the same time I inherited my father’s shovel you kinda get fond of the good old shovel. I used the wife’s shovel the other week a cheap China one my foot slipped (bare feet of course) 4 stitches later from a trip to the hospital I thought iam never using that one again yes I know even the hospital said bare feet I never wear shoes at home in the bush so far only one snake bite I lived to post this so it could’ve been worse. Richard
    2 points
  18. When I travel through the tableland regions in the states of Paraná and Santa Catarina, where Butia eriospatha is native ( not so common), most of this regions also have in bigger quantities , wild "jerivá" (tableland varieties of Syagrus romanzoffiana) and frequently I see xButyagrus paranaensis, sometimes cultivated and some in semi wild conditions. All this are natural hybrids and not made by gardeners. They really are very atractive and some are really magnificent. When in cultivation they are probably selected about volunteers. I also remember the botanist Kelen Soares photographing hybrids of Butia lallemantii x Syagrus romazoffiana in the state Rio Grande do Sul.
    2 points
  19. I have question, in South America where these palms are native how often and in what area are natural hybrids present? Butia has many different varieties, are these hybrids or distinct? As more and more people in North America are planting various palms, I wonder how much naturalization and hybridization is occurring.
    2 points
  20. Yeah. You can't see the trunk in this pic but it's very thick! Plus the fronds are pretty Filiferish in size and color. I think I might have just came up with a new word "Filiferish". Lol
    2 points
  21. This is a pic of a 42” pot that I have mine in… It is from about 2-1/2 years ago, and the the palm is bigger now, but doing just fine.. One of my concerns about going with a smaller pot was the with the palm being top-heavy, it might fall over.. It did a few times in he smaller pot, but with a few 100 #s of planter mix in this pot, it’s pretty well grounded… Butch
    2 points
  22. Yes, the weather 🌴for the last 4 years has been absolute trash. The top 3 coldest winter lows of the last 34 years have all occurred in the last 4 years. The lows were not only exceptional but the duration of freezing as well. 2023 was the hottest summer on record since modern records began. 2022 was the second hottest summer on record. Add in the ensuing drought 😡 Everything that can go wrong has gone wrong. The 1980s were dark times for most of the South too. Hopefully we will be done with this nightmare soon. Don't let all the doom and gloom consume you though. I still plant like it's zone 9, 'cause it still is over the long-term. 🌴
    2 points
  23. To me.. this looks like a very close to pure filifera..
    2 points
  24. Things to study / find the links between that can influence a " good / ideal " or " bad / poor " WX pattern / help answer the above - highlighted question? PDO ( Pacific Decadal Oscillation ) ENSO Cycles ( El Nino / La Nina ) P.V. = Polar Vortex, and SSWE ( Sudden Stratospheric Warming events ) ...AND the various teleconnections that link everything together.. ..MJO, AO, NAO. and the PNA.. ..Some other, more obscure WX pattern " forcers " puzzle pieces to study out there too. Weird WX in one place = weird WX in many other places, ..though Weird here may be warm in Feb. while Weird back east = cold ..Warmer/ colder than what is considered " Normal " Simply put = No simple answer(s) ( Though there are plenty of simple people who assume there are ) .. lots of rabbit holes however, that will lead you down a lot more, as you gain knowledge..
    2 points
  25. I did a whole bunch of cleanup today, and finished piling up all the debris for pickup. The cactus above was so top-heavy that I had to chop off most of it, but it'll grow back just fine. This time I drove 3x 4' stainless pipes into the ground and tied it tight. One big job today was removing the Bambusa "New Guinea Black" from the SE house corner. In the post on 10/16/24 I called it "Malaysian Black," but the Gigantochloa "Malaysian Black" is up in the NE corner of the yard. The specs on Tropical Bamboo's website are 20' tall and 1" culms, but it was more like 2" culms. I was going to move it to the SE hedgeline, but it's a somewhat "open" clumper and I decided to just trash it instead. After slicing it up with the reciprocating saw, it took about 30 minutes to dig out an entire 7g pot full of rhizome chunks: And in its place I transplanted a big clump of Rhapis Humilis I got from @palmsOrl a few years ago. This is a full sun spot, so we'll see how it likes blazing FL sun...
    2 points
  26. I don't know how those palms survive there lol people in Albuquerque just know more about the palms in their yard and know its going to burn almost every year but they just cut all the dead fronds and there ya go! Though other people in other places iTs DeAd Just wait just wait ah look at that a new spear. How about that!
    2 points
  27. @Foxpalms @gurugu The Isles of Scilly probably have 5 of the top 10 best UK beaches in my eyes. There are only a few others in mainland Cornwall and the western isles of Scotland that could maybe rival these. Even then, they probably still come up short against the top Isles of Scilly beaches. Tresco and St Martin's especially have several world class beaches each. Unfortunately my day-trip to the Isles of Scilly in September was very rushed due to several reasons that I won't go into, and I wasn't able to appreciate any beaches at all. Next time I visit the Scilly Isles, I will primarily focus on experiencing the idyllic beaches and crystal clear waters. Some of these are probably amongst the best beaches in all of Europe, specifically the top 5 below... 1.) Pentle Bay, Tresco (probably the best beach in the Isles of Scilly and one of the best in Europe) 2.) Par Beach, St Martin's (St Martin's probably edges Tresco for best beaches overall, and this is one of the best beaches in Europe). 3.) Ganilly Sandbar, eastern Isle chain (uninhabited) - can reach by boat or kayak from the east side of St Martin's... 4.) Great Bay and Little Bay, St Martin's 5.) Appletree Bay, Tresco 6.) Green Bay, Bryher (during low tide you can walk to Appletree Bay on Tresco). 7.) Horseshoe beach, Tean (uninhabited island) - can be reached by boat or Kayak from the west side of St Martin's. 8.) Pelistry Bay, St Mary's 9.) The Bar, St Agnes 10.) Bar split, Samson (uninhabited island) - can reach by boat from Bryher or Tresco Bonus - Porthmellon and Porthcressa beaches, St Mary's (both are immediately accessible after arriving on the ferry from Penzance). Here you can see all the beaches mapped that are worth visiting. Not all of them are shown above. The top 5 are must visits - Pentil Bay, Par Beach, Ganilly Sandbar, Great Bay/Little Bay and Appletree Bay. All 5 are viewable from Tresco and St Martin's.
    2 points
  28. With all my BI palm colleagues contributing to this topic, I just had to enter my own documentation. Purchased two as foot-tall seedlings in July 2019, planted out in May 2020. They have grown like rockets. Here they are today, lawn chair for scale.
    2 points
  29. I remember that Patric told me that Dick Dougla's famous Butia odorata x Jubaea wasn't able to pollinate itself (steril pollen). This being hybrids of another butia species and also 3 different plants....maybe another story.
    2 points
  30. Hi all. On Saturday my wife and I visited @Jim in Los Altos's incomparable garden, about forty miles south of here. Jim's garden is absolutely amazing. His unusual/rare species are too numerous to mention (or photograph) and he is successfully growing species I could never dream of here. His winter lows are maybe a degree or two cooler than ours, but his summer highs are consistently 15°-20° higher, and he gets little fog. For example, his Rhapis excelsa looks terrific, while I just removed ours because it sulked for five years and the leaves wouldn't even go palmate. But there were a few plants in his collection which we discussed as being potentially adaptable to cool-summer climates which I would like to try. Among them are Chambeyronia macrocarpa and/or hookeri (of course) and Euterpe edulis (maybe orange crownshaft type). For reference, in addition to Rhapis, I have been unable to grow Prestoea montana and Cyphophoenix elegans which both croaked quickly, but Geonoma undata, C. onilahensis and all our Chamaedoreas are doing well. We have a small garden and can't accommodate species which get large. What do you all think? @Darold Petty?
    1 point
  31. Unclear, at this writing. I failed twice before in a very shady area. Third try, I have a better spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. I bought a large plant last spring. So far the spear has doubled in length, but not opened. A friend with much warmer summer weather here in the Bay Area, (San Rafael) told me that he gets only one frond per year, but each one is markedly larger than the previous one. Perhaps Jim can elaborate. The one I gave Paul just now came from Floribunda and was inside my greenhouse.
    1 point
  32. Just in time for Halloween! 6 leaves.
    1 point
  33. every now and then do some light root pruning then put in a decently sized pot remember don't go from small pot to big pot increase from 3 gal to 7 gal to 15 gal etc. cause 3 gal to 15 gal there isn't enough roots to absorb all the water which can lead to problems such as overwatering! Bottle palms are slow growing (Like you said) so id say only root prune rotted looking roots or new thick ones and once it gets too big id say plant it! my Mimi in FL has a majesty 3 bottles and 3 foxtails The bottles and the majesty have been there for 18 years no damage ever in 10a so yeah planting there in 10b 11a you would be good! (or if you dont want to plant it just root prune like a bonsai Lightly and you will be good for long term)
    1 point
  34. Here is the East Grand Traverse Bay at sunset:
    1 point
  35. The good old town of Grafton in Australia has a jacaranda festival celebrating the jacaranda tree in a grand old fashioned way. A week long celebration with tourists coming from all over the globe to see the flowering trees. There’s even a jacaranda queen competition with a long held tradition of locals competing for honour of miss jacaranda queen. The whole town celebrating with one big week long festival of fun events well worth seeing.
    1 point
  36. I forgot to mention the white jacaranda tree in the photographs a few are planted around town as well. I might have to harvest a few seeds I think could be a demand for them.
    1 point
  37. Slow or fast some plants from the tropical climates struggle through winter only to take off again in summer then in autumn you can there happy again. Only to get cold feet again it’s the soil temperature that hits the hardest for them. Richard
    1 point
  38. Yes the date is correct dated from the day of sowing. Here’s my one in the garden 23 years old iam sure a tropical climate they would grow much faster. Richard
    1 point
  39. I didn't know you could grow a lipstick palm there. I love the colours but they get so messy when they clump. My old garden has been really knocked around since I left. Peachy
    1 point
  40. Axel, I don't think the issue is coolness unless it is sustained (which wears the tree down and onward along the road toward a slow death). Many coconuts thrive and have excellent appearance in Central Florida despite occasional hits in the 30s F. The one coconut I have in a more exposed situation here in the Palm Springs area (a Red Spicata) definitely got damaged by a combination of repeated nights in the 30s and also unacclimated leaves being hit by low-angle winter sun, and the result was a terrible appearance by this past spring. But coconuts in general certainly don't have the sensitivity to generally cold temps (40F and above) in the vein of, say, Pritchardia pacifica, Cyrtostachys renda, or Artocarpus altilis. But with that said, in conditions of a high dewpoint/humidity, frost can occur almost anywhere in the 30sF, and I think that would be the decisive factor.
    1 point
  41. I came across an interview with Pat on the Earthfit channel. This is the group behind the Useful Wild Plants Project.
    1 point
  42. 2024 update on the Abbey Gardens at Tresco… Archontophoenix The oldest Washingtonia in the UK and younger Washies Juania Australis Brahea Armata… Jubaea… Norfolk Island Pines… Here are a collection of old photos of the gardens from 1890 - 1930 compared to modern day… 1890 vs 2024… 1895 vs 2024… 1910 vs 2024… 1910 vs 2024… 1915 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1920 vs 2024… 1930 vs 2024… 1970 vs 2024… 2002 vs 2024…
    1 point
  43. Coming out well now. 2 fronds where it was cut and 1 good spear
    1 point
  44. Absolutely, your speculation has been studied and proven correct in many plants. Sugars are all anti-freeze which is an adaptive trait. For example, beets will concentrate sugars in the bulb to protect it from freezing so that it can resprout in spring. Jubaea concentrate sugar sap in the trunk which protects the heart to a degree from freezing. Young Jubaea without a trunk are susceptable to freezing and death whereas adult Jubaea with trunks can survive. During the Ice Age the habitat where the Jubaea evolved was subject to freezing probably every year, so in kind the Jubaea Chilensis is an Ice Age palm which has survived into the Holocene. There are many papers, reports and studies of this subject many discussed on prior "Palm Talk" threads. The common name for Jubaea is Chilean Wine Palm because in Chile it was in past cut down to drain the sugar sap and used to make Palm Wine. The trunk of the Jubaea is like a big barrel of sugar sap and contains many hundreds of gallons in an adult trunk, which is slowly drained when cut down. A log of freshly cut down Jubaea will sink in water because of its higher specific density due to the sap. The size of the Jubaea trunk together with its saturation with sap also gives it fire protection another adaptive trait.
    1 point
  45. No need for machinery to load! Layed it down one direction then lifted back up other direction into truck! The Moose was right!
    1 point
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