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Back from a trip to Argentina, filmed this drone video of Trithrinax campestris habitat in Pampa de Pocho, Cordoba, Argentina. Enjoy!

Bentinckia condapanna Tim

Pinanga colors

Mine is flowering for the first time this year. Pretty confident it will end up as Minor.

This Pinanga coronata var. 'kuhlii’ caught my eye today. A few years ago it died back to one stem and I thought it was going to die. It’s amazing how quickly palms can recover under the right conditions.

Ring a ding ding!

Licuala, Verschiffeltia and friends today

Pritchardia martii, abaxial side of the leaves. Almost looks like a frosty morning shot. Super dense lepida, (white hair like covering), one of the traits of this beautiful endemic species. Tim

First of all, I want to preface this thread by saying that I don't know 100% that these people are scammers, but my suspicions have been raised enough to make me post... I started a thread last week asking for Cycas revoluta x debaoensis seeds. A Palmtalk user who has no post history sent me a message saying they had received these seeds from @MattyB and gave me an email address to contact him on. I sent an email and had some slightly strange interactions with someone called Pete who, at first, wasn't forthcoming with information about where they had sourced the seed from. I suppose in my desire to source these seeds I was willing to look past this, and I proceeded to ask for Paypal payment details. They provided them and asked me to do it as a 'Friends and Family' payment, meaning I wouldn't be covered in the case of fraud. They then gave me the email address to use for Paypal and this was yet another name. Thankfully, at this point I had the sense not to proceed, but I was very close. I could be wrong, but just a few things here don't seem to add up and I'm concerned that I might not be the only person this has happened to. And just to reiterate, I don't believe MattyB is involved in this at all... I think scammers may have just selected a popular user to add an air of authenticity to the whole thing. So be careful, everyone! Oh and if anyone knows of a genuine source of C. revoluta x debaoensis then I'm still searching 😂

It's nice to see rings, even if they're on common palms! 🌴 I got around to cleaning old leaf bases on my queen palm this afternoon. Let's see yours!

My hookeri is flowering again I have several large ones in the garden. Planted over 23 years ago they stand proud with the other palms being garden sentimentals. No seeds have been set yet but two are flowering again so maybe this season a couple of seeds if iam lucky. With a few around the garden there’s never a dull moment with a red leaf appearing amongst the green jungle always making a statement.

Robusta survivors in San Marcos and more Robusta on I-35 heading north of NB.

October 27, 2024 update It has been pretty warm lately, but I’m starting to only water them once a day now as the days get shorter and nights cooler. Most night lows are around 58-62f now. A palmtalk member helped me ID the coconut types for anyone wondering. The first coconut in the corner directly below is most likely a Niu Hiwa mix and all the rest are a Maypan mixes. Here is this one, it gets sun all day but only on the tops leaves and the soil doesn’t get any sun. I think it is established enough to not care. (1.25 years old) These 2 started to pinnate, which is exciting.(Both 6 months old) This one I might replace the jackfruit tree in the greenhouse with. The jackfruit is struggling with the heat there and this one is a winner, and yellow. (Had it for 1 month, unknown age) Maybe in a few years we might get a new leaf on this one 🙏🏻 (1 year old) This one is finally starting to look good. (10 months old) Now that this coconut is fully growing outside the greenhouse I have haphazardly sealed off the greenhouse so it is very toasty again. It has put out a new frond at a rate of 1 each month so I hope to keep it at that pace throughout winter (1 year old)

I agree with Rick that this species is definitely not huggable. I was wearing gloves and using a rake to help pull down some old leaves but still managed to impale my fingers more than once while moving the spiny fronds into a trash bag. I don’t leave these to decompose because they will grab me again and again over time. Still mine is up a hill from a walkway and pretty to admire from afar.

Yes, the only tilted palm was a s9o;litary 25' C. Pembana, and it must come down as you can see the root area on the opposite side was lifted. It is tilted away from the house and the house had minimal damage so I am fine. The house is good to 130mph code so I was not worried about that. Four of the 20 royal leaves that were stripped from my two royals landed on the house. This storm we first has the wind from the East as we were on the north side of the eyewall. But as it passed we got the northern winds from the west side of the eyewall. These northern winds are what appeared to do the most damage around the neighborhood, flatt3ening stop signs and uprooting and snapping dicot trees. There are at least a dozen snapped dicots behind my house in the wooded area. Here is what the northern wind side did to my C Fallaensis before: after with a closeup to show leaves on the north side being folded into the crown. The good part is the bud remains open and the newest leaves and spear have not been damaged as in sabal causiarum. I always wondered why some in habitat pics tended to have more sparse crowns, they see lots of wind and that opens up the crowns and causes leaf loss. I have zero worries that this one will not recover fully in time. 12 feet from it I have my baby fallaensis planted last summer. It was undamaged in wind and is opening a new leaf. All my small palms are looking good, not much damage at all.

HAHA - Oh I tease. October has been kind to the garden this year (with the exception of rain). With temps this month staying in the 80's/50's for the most part aside from a quick 2 day cool snap mid-month it's been quite wonderful. Our 10 day shows highs in the 80s and lows around 60 which I will take as long as mother nature wants to provide it! Nabbed a few image from the gardens: Hopefully the rack of namwahs has some time to mature. (doubtful) but one can wish.

Heres my filifera triplet..

Jim, you just opened a can of warms lol . I hope you're wrong rrrrrr

Yes, good observations. These thermal belts are definitely real. Some famous ones in California are known to produce farmers.

Lessen those east winds, even with lows approaching -30f, Bernalillo shows it's thermal properties with no single digits highs. Same cannot be said with the Sunport. NWS has a time grasping this and really do not understand the west mesa true thermals! I believe they have continuously moved stations in the past for this very reason, they thought they were unbelievable. From the NWS: "To complicate matters, there is often what is called a 'thermal belt' above the cold pool of air in the valley. This is a layer of air that is considerably warmer than farther below in the valley. This thermal belt is usually located near the mid slope of a mountain or more gently sloping terrain. A good example exists around Albuquerque. At the valley floor, temperatures can be ten or more degrees colder than at the Albuquerque Sunport, while the Sunport will generally be several degrees warmer than the foothills." https://www.weather.gov/abq/clifeaturefallfreeze Sunport Bernalillo

Bro i saw this and freaked the frick out but then i realized this was in january. LOL

Dave, I used many products from this company when I rebuilt my greenhouse 25 years ago. They offer waterproof plastic electrical boxes and fittings. stainless steel hardware, and much more. I used these plastic panels for my bench surfaces. They are still in perfect condition all these years later. Also, the company does not have a minimum purchase, and has fast shipping. https://www.teksupply.com/prod/pgha2215.html

I have produced some small works of dried Borassus flabellifer as a woodturner, and the stuff seems to be loaded with silica. It dulls my tools very quickly. It also demands a very sharp edge to obtain a clean cut, making it a bit challenging and labor intensive to work with.

I’m not sure which are as sensitive as the B. Armata. I learned here that the Brahea can’t be moved . I have successfully moved Washingtonia R. and , I am told , Trachycarpus F and Chamerops can be moved . Harry

Some wacky looking Sylvester’s in San Jacinto city

A lovely understory palm to have in the collection I planted today. Easy to grow cool tolerant surviving my winter temperatures of 2 degrees Celsius. Another one in the garden Iam looking forward to seeing grow. Hopefully it will produce a few seeds it’s flowering now so it may produce a few seeds if iam lucky unless it’s dioecious.

I agree , the roots of the Brahea Armata are super sensitive! I had one at my old house . It was small 1 gallon size doing very well , only in the ground about 6 months . I spent a lot of time carefully digging it up to bring to my new house . It died! I replaced it for $20 , and now the replacement is getting nice , they are slow growers even when healthy . If you want a nice one , start with a healthy specimen . HarryHere in Southern California , this is 25 years

Here is a picture of the trunk of the one seedling I left undisturbed in the original community bed. It's 19 years old now, and apparently very happy. 😄 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

i brought my big plumeria inside this weekend and also potted up a size some cuttings i rooted a couple years ago lots of leaves broke off bringing it through the door and you can tell it is about to drop a bunch more.. usually does bringing it in went smoothly.. it has been dry this month so it wasnt that heavy

Welcome neighbor and welcome to palmtalk! I cannot speak to butia and or needle palms as I have never grown them. My observations cover nearly 50 years in the ABQ metro. My hunch on butia and needles are they prefer a bit less alkaline conditions found here. I do recommend butia hybrids and hopefully a fellow poster may respond. I do not protect my palms. Something about wanting to sleep at night. What I have observed is that robusta are at best a 3-5 year palm here. Even protected, they are short lived. That said, I can speak to filifera, Trachy, and med palms. I highly recommend all three with caveats. Trachy- they will do just fine here in full sun(not reflected). They need a consistent supply moisture, like a lawn(which I see you have). A slight knock on the alkaline, I use coffee grounds sporadically. Leaf hardy to upper single digits 8-10f. A quick window shot(unprotected -10f survivor) Med palm- Another -10f survivor, unprotected. I suggest against a south wall,east, west wall. North wall recovery is too slow(mine and it -10f was on a north wall and followed the next winter at zero. Leaf hardy to 10f. Varying damage below. Filifera- My "specialty". This palm is all about roots. Unless planting as a young seedlings(1-2 years), the plant will be set back 2-3 years. You will get better results planting directly from seed, if possible. Also stop watering from balloon fiesta to daffodil blooming season. Ensure you are getting pure or nearly so. I kind of discuss this and my passive protection used for this very purpose in this ongoing thread. Long read, highly recommend if interested in this palm. Leaf hardy to about 12f. All that said, Enchanted hills is on the fringes of what I call the palm zone in the metro. East winds do start to come into play as the Sandias end just to the ne and some blocking is lost. Our palm killing Arctic cold comes from the east. This is somewhat a key understanding for long-term growth. You are in somewhat of a thermal belt, and even Bernalillo is the same when comparing What am I saying with all this east wind stuff? I will give you two charts. I lived this event and saw trachies survive in the valley just south of Bernalillo. While Bernalillo had much colder lows than the sunport, the high temperatures are vastly different. Incredibly so! That is the key!

Another pretty Wallichia species. Easy in my garden.

Here are my coconuts that I have in my garden. But I’m not so sure the variety that they are

Yes I got only one response from my want to buy and it was a 0 post new user who communicated in broken English so I knew it was an obvious scam attempt. I would never deal with someone on Palm Talk that doesn’t have some type of established reputation. Caveat Emptor

Funny that I knew the storm was coming and I sat out in the yard moving hte adirondack chair around just enjoying my time in the environment. I knew it would change and I was prepared for worse. Everything will have to grow taller to have the crowns regrow, that I do not like but that is what you get here, fast growth. I have gotten tired of things putting on 7-10 more feet of height to regrow crowns after a hurricane. So I now have to feed and water the smaller palms so they can fill the space. But really you are right, kids and grand kids are doing great so I really have little to be upset about. I have grown 6 different gardens, 2 with mostly palms. Every garden is a journey with bumps, I now am going to have room to plant my (BxJ)xJ from patrick and other containers I have. I may lose a few mature palms but mostly they will recover. The county is taking away the debris and I will cut down(3) palms as of now so the expenses have been minor.

There were a few Phoenix canariensis palms about that size in 8b Austin before 2021. Hope for some mild winters if you try one.

CIDP in the right areas can be very hardy.

Rich, thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. These Dictyocaryum have always had good color, even as young juveniles. The color does vary after a frond drop, from a soft blue to a more light purple blue. The color also seems to be specimen specific, the one in the photo typically has more of a purple hue, while the one on the right more blue. I used to have another one, also more blue, but it was always puny and seemed to be penciling out, I removed it. ( quite a luxury eh?) Nowadays I get about one frond a year which is slower than previous years, at least that’s my perception. The photo attached was taken about ten years ago shortly after the palms started trunking. Tim

I like the way this palm is framed in the photo. Nice composition! From earlier today: Archontophoenix "Teracarpa" (named hybrid from Jungle Music).

Phenomenal. Looks straight out of a landscape design magazine! Love the Hedychium (?) sticking out above the Alocasia

Ever since the great freeze of '21, I have lost 10 of my 11 loquat trees to subsequent freezes and droughts. My one surviving tree flowered and began producing fruit late last fall and with the mild winter, I had hopes of having the fruit mature. Well, then the ol' polar vortex arrived and brought temperatures into the single digits killing a bunch of branches and surely killing any developing fruit. But, it turns out that some of the fruits survive. You may ask "what does this have to do with palm?" Well, the leaves created a micro climate that was warm enough to allow fruit to survive. So, the moral of the story is to not overly prune your palms if you live in a cold area. Allow the dead or dying fronds to insulate the crown and trunk.

additional sabals on a separate planting project ( west nasa parkway ) at least 100 will be planted I assume. cidp looking better alrupdate on the medical center planting still tied up .

Thanks for update. Probably some bug where Firefox screen resolution settings aren’t overlaying the “click fields” of those links correctly. Maybe try reloading Firefox.

@t76turbo I'm no entomologist, but it looks like a common fly or fruit fly of some sort. When you cut off the old fronds, make sure to check the appearance of the cut ends right after the cut. If they are completely dry/dessicated then they'll just be sort of tan/brown. If they are still alive and in good shape they will be white. Random splotches in the cut end can mean an infection like Thielaviopsis, Ganoderma or Fusarium. You have to look immediately after cutting, because literally within 20-30 seconds it'll start discoloring, even on a healthy frond. If you end up cutting it down and removing it, check the cut trunk in the upper section and in sections going down towards the base. Trunk discoloration near the top/crown/heart is usually Thielaviopsis. This isn't considered transmissable through the ground, so replanting a new palm in the same spot is ok. This happened to a Queen in my yard, the top 5 feet or so were splotchy discolored inside, but totally clean white for the bottom 5-7 feet or so. Trunk discoloration near the bottom 1-3 feet is usually Ganoderma. This is considered ground-transmissable, and planting another palm there may just give the disease to the new palm. Trunk discoloration all the way top to bottom (or close to it) but in only one "zone" of the trunk may be Fusarium. Even if the fronds didn't have the visible one-sided death it's possible that it died from Fusarium. Mules are 50% Butia and at least partially resistant to Fusarium, so the visible symptoms might be different. I haven't personally seen one with Fusarium, so I don't really know. Regardless of the cause of death, I'd cut and bag all the pieces up and collect as much of the sawdust as possible, including the mulch around it and as much of the root ball as is feasible. Put it all out for pickup. You don't want to accidentally spread the disease around, whatever it happens to be. And be sure to sanitize your pruning tools between palms. I use rubbing alcohol on my loppers/clippers/shears and drop my reciprocating blades in a glass jar of rubbing alcohol between each palm. I think I'd rule out LB as the cause. Typically the crown starts looking "stressed" on the lower fronds at about the same time the spear leaf dies or stops growing. In your case the spear is the last thing to die, which doesn't normally happen with LB.

@Phoenikakias interesting, I hadn't heard of that before either. Apparently palms do it though, see the study on Syagrus Coronata: https://academic.oup.com/mam/article-abstract/9/S02/1522/6907263?redirectedFrom=PDF

Does not look good at all! My first guess would be root disturbance during planting into your yard from digging bare root or from the bucket. I've found Brahea to have EXTREMELY sensitive roots. I once grew a crop of them, ground planted in a community bed to 5 gallon size,and about half of them died when dug and put into 5 gallon pots as careful as I was. If you just yanked it out of the bucket,or had to break any roots when removing the pot from where it was growing in the nursery - there's your cause. Could also be over fertilization if you added fertilizer to the planting hole. Generally,you don't want to fertilize a newly planted palm unless using a time release fertilizer like osmocote, and even then, very sparingly. Definitely a problem with the roots, and you seriously may want to consider starting over with a fresh palm. This species is readily available locally,and wasting any more time on a palm in that bad a shape is crazy. For $90 for a fresh 15 gallon example at A&P nurseries or even cheaper at Tree land nurseries, it's a no brainer.🤷‍♂️ Once established, this is a bullet proof palm in Arizona.👍 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Good morning, earlier this year I planted 2 queen palms in my yard among my palm collection. the palm seen in pictures seems to be opening fronds incorrectly and they are just hanging. I think this may have happened from me pruning too early on. Regardless, I have no pruned since then in hopes that this will rectify itself. It’s been months and a few new fronds and they are still droopy. does anyone know what is causing this and will it ever look normal? Or should I rip out.

Ok , my turn . The C. Macrocarpa I have is growing in full , hot sun so the red isn’t as impressive as shade grown ones I’ve seen. I brought this home from Maui as a small seedling many years ago. When it was young it had shade but now it has to tolerate sun. It was 87f today when I took the picture. The red will only last a couple of days . I get 3-4 fronds a year. Harry

Another one

We did get warmer than the forecast - It briefly made it up to -10 (-23C) for a daytime high today. Here is the arid berm in the front yard a few minutes ago showing the rose cones over some "tender" agaves and such: Here is when we tossed on those rose cones six days ago: Now it is hard to believe we only took the potted palms inside just over two weeks ago.