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Great palm! I’m sure you are going to grow it well. I can’t add anything regrading cold hardiness but I do have one that does pretty good on the coast however the leafs tend to get a bit burnt from the sea breeze and sun. Overall a great palm.

Start an IV STAT. That palm needs hydration.

I first spotted these in 2022 when I was staying at one of the houses nearby, now I just remembered them. There’s this vacant lot out in lakeway that has at least 3 wild CIDP growing. Plus a few Butia, which don’t look too good. I can’t confirm for sure that these are naturalized, however there are two mature CIDP just a block away that they could have come from. Also these are expensive homes, and I’m pretty sure if anyone wanted a CIDP they would just transplant one. There’s also about a dozen Filifera on the same street that are all pretty big. Unfortunately the views when you drive past aren’t great, but you can still see a few of them. Aerial view isn’t much better

I know there aren't many PT'ers in the Houston area, but figured I'd post here first before listing on FB. Porch pickup from League City or can possibly arrange to have pick up in Memorial area on Fridays. Paypal/Zelle/Venmo. Not interested in shipping at this time. Chrysalidocarpus/Dypsis Pembana 1gal $15. I have a bunch, mostly red petiole but a few yellow as well. Allagoptera Arenaria 1g $15. These are 3 years old and notoriously slow seedlings, so should be time for them to start speeding up. Have multiple. Butia Odorata 3gal. Only have 1. $20 Livistona Decora 7gal $75. These were from NTCHP and they want to go in the ground badly. The Decora in the pic is from the same batch but was the lucky one that got planted in summer of '21. They grow FAST in ground. Survived 15° unprotected with no issues. Not a palm, but I have a bunch of 3gal Brachychiton Rupestris aka Queensland Bottle Tree. $40 ea. Chamaedorea Tepejilote 1gal. $10, have multiple.

Interesting. I see a lot of naturalized sabals and washingtonias in the area. I don't know if I have found any CIDP or butias naturalized yet. I have posted a pic before of a couple of CIDP on a vacant lot Cibolo, but I am not sure if perhaps there used to be a farmhouse or something on the site before the area was developed into subdivisions:

I looked at it and thought I can’t buy it I have no room left in the car to put it (was going to leave the wife behind for extra room but thought twice about that). So I packed the car up jam packed full already and guess who had room for the palm. Now all I have to is go pick up the wife🤣 Richard

It’s been this way since I bought this house 4 years ago. Though, it seems to be getting worse. Is it manganese deficiency? Doesn’t quite look like what I can google. South Florida here. Soil is mostly sand

A visit to Brisbane botanical gardens. Quite an impressive garden with a lot of age with the plants on display throughout the garden. They certainly have there work cut out for them with this garden. It’s absolutely gorgeous. With some very large mature palms.

Talk about a kid in a candy store omg. What fun it is to have so many new palms to choose from and some absolute bargains. As a palm grower myself I could not resist a kerriodoxa even though I have 700 of them in my greenhouse I just had to buy it. Even a nice Cham genoformis, dypsis poiveana I already have quite a few in containers and in the ground but I still had to buy them I just can’t help myself. So the list of palms I purchased are as follows. cham genoformis, pritchardia martii, licuala pelata sumowongii, synecanthus warscewizianus, hydriastele pinangoides, dypsis managenerensis, dypsis rosea, Cham elatior, ptychosperma cuneatum, rhopalastylis sapida, dypsis poiveana, dypsis pinnatafrons, Cham nubiums Pinanga insignis dypsis arenarium blue form, dypsis robusta, Chuniophoenix humilis, Calum’s muelleri and an Arenga caudata. An absolute feeding frenzy of palm buying and the best part was a total blast of fun doing so. Just a couple more for the collection.

Tis 'also the season for getting spring projects completed before the dawn of " Nuke Season " begins to illuminate the eastern horizon in a couple months ..if not earlier this year... Slightly raised, gravel- filled beds separating the block wall from the back lawn looks much nicer than letting the lawn take up all the space.. As mentioned before, specific Canna / summer flowering annual stuff will fill these beds.. In this particular section, left the level of gravel placed in the block holes a little lower compared to other areas ( ...Where i filled the holes to the top ) ..Because this part of the yard stays shaded and moist in winter, even one as dry as this year apparently ...and the bottom of all the blocks placed here aren't open, ..thus being able to retain some water, ...or at least allow water to slowly drain, considering another experiment with native Fern spores here next winter.. May stick some Yerba Mansa offsets in a few of the holes too. Still undecided on whether or not the corner ..behind the log.. will be good enough for throwing a Hedychium in there, or still too hot / sunny.. Now that it is enclosed, need to get / mix in a couple bags of compost ..and get what Tomatoes / Peppers Mex. Oregano ( Lippia gravolens ) / Basil will go in there planted. Italian Long pepper planted 2 years ago? ...awakening to Spring, #3.. Hiding under the 5-6" of block buried below the soil line lies another 8-10" of hardwire cloth around the entire edge of the bed which should deter the furry menace. * Hopefully * Next area to be done.. Don't think the yard would look right if i didn't do this section. Since i'm pretty sure i'll have gravel left after i complete the final two sections of raised beds along the back wall, will likely fill in this area around the base of the Ficus, after i lay down hardwire cloth to keep the furry menace out.. For whatever reason, Bermuda ..which grows everywhere else, will not fill in under here. Would look nicer with a defined, slightly raised bed around it anyway.. Thing in the pot in front of the Ficus is a zone 13 Bursera sp native to a small area of Oaxaca along the Pacific coast of Mexico .. Extra driveway space filled in.. Head off it is a 3ft wide raised bed ..so anyone parking there doesn't hit the block wall separating the front and back yards.. Random " add in " spots to the sidewalk beds.. Aside from spreading the mounds of older rocked moved from a different spot, only things i need to add to the " main " bed out there are the two Plumeria i'm planting, the " summer flowering " cacti, and a pair of Colorado Four-o-Clocks ( Mirabilis multiflora ).. Next fall, i tackle installing 16-18" barrier below the scalloped edging ( if i don't decide to move it to the sidewalk edge / replace w/ block.. ) to keep the Bermuda out..

Chambeyronia Macrocarpa just got the ring

This red Areca vestiaria frond popped open the last few days. Took all winter to get there but looks good.

With the start of a new month comes the start of a new season ..defined by the only way of defining the seasons that matters, Meteorologically.. Final month of " winter " spent well above average, + our first official 90s for 2025, ..a month early, = plenty of stuff awakening from their winter naps in the yards ..and beyond... Hippeastrum " Stargazer, Minerva, ..or .... " right at peak bloom, while inflo #2 produced by this plant gets ready to open.. Solanum houstonii Calliandra eriophylla.. Echinocereus coccineus ..or triglochidatus.. flowering ..One of the two planted in the yard at least.. ..Ahead of the Beavertails and specimen these offsets came from at the old house too.. Seed started Coral Honeysuckle i thought i'd killed after yanking last fall.. White Veined Pipevine ** Not pictured ** Native Pipevine, A. watsonii is already starting to flower.. Clitoria mariana peeking out of the soil about 4 weeks ahead of schedule.. Caliche Globemallow Though it has thrown around a few sporadic flowers, Erythrostemon palmeri is already reloaded with buds.. While a few in the neighborhood are just starting to show any color, looks like the TX Mtn Laurel will beat the Sweet Acacia across the street to the stage this year.. The pale - flowered specimen.... Orange Tecoma cultivar.

Well it’s official the Coffs Harbour botanical garden conservation project is underway. With a donation of palms from Colin Wilson and Lyn Crehan. They have been more than generous in donating their time for the project with some amazing palms to start planting out in the gardens. I still have to go through them and find out exactly what I have got to plant. I look forward to the project getting underway for future generations to have such great rare beautiful plants. Iam the garden’s curator will be more than pleased with what’s available in palms for the garden. I would like to personally thank Colin and Lyn for giving me this opportunity to be part of such a great project, along with pacsoa and the wonderful people behind such a great organisation. I will post a list of what palms I have for now they can rest up with a good watering after such a long journey.

Here is Adam's Tahina.

It looks like it could be cold damage possibly? Does E edulis generally do ok in SF?? I tried the orange crownshaft variety here and found it pretty wimpy...our climates are reasonably similar if you're in the cooler parts of SF. Just a thought.

Yike! Ham-handed and incomplete. Washies and similar are fire hazards; kings and Rhopies are not.

Humans have very varied interpretations of "usefulness". Some make dwellings or hats for sun protection, some eat the fruit. I can say that palms are apparently much more useful preventing hurricane damage to your house than dicots. Oaks, elms, eucalyptus all were felled by hurricane Milton last fall. Some fell on houses, some became a mess to haul away. My 8 closest neighbors had obvious roof damage including leaks, needing new roofing jobs. My house had minimal damage to 10 feet of the cap. My place has ~60 mature palms instead of dicots. The tallest palms took a whooping for sure, but are already pushing out new leaves. Perhaps you should ask carribean islanders how useful palms are? After a big hurricane comes through the palms often still standing ready to refresh the crowns while the dicots are often dead and gone. Dicots are messy when they seasonally drop leaves and twigs, many palms are relatively clean, especially the self shedding ones.

I think "usefulness to humans" is an incredibly poor standard to judge any plant by.

All this talk of Allogoptera arenaria flowering must have induced mine to flower. I need some tips on helping the pollination process from Richard.

Zamia hamannii starting it's yearly "flush" of a single spike. My favourite of the plicate zamias

@Foggy Paul do you know the type of rock? Granite is mostly silica and may not dissolve much, but marble chips are mostly calcium carbonate and dissolve much faster. I don't know if it would be enough to really affect the palms or not. Two things come to mind: too much of one nutrient can inhibit absoption of others with "nutrient antagonism" So too much N or Mg = K deficiency. The other is soil ph: But it looks like Potassium is only affected by really low pH, which is probably not an issue.

@carlosinkw welcome to PalmTalk! In general I would say "transplant shock," just meaning it is actively growing new roots and getting acclimated. If the new fronds are solid green and growing, then it is probably just short on Potassium. Typically a potassium deficiency shows up as translucent, yellow or dead brown spots on the oldest leaves, occasionally with dead tips. At 3.5 months it is definitely time to fertilize. I would say 1 or 2 handfuls of Florikan or Palmgain, spread randomly in maybe a 6ft diameter circle. If it keeps having potassium deficiemcy signs, you could add some Langbeinite / Sulpomag / Kmag. Nothing will "fix" the yellow spots, but the fertilizer may stop it from progressing further.

Definitely wait for it to finish blooming before you try replanting it. I just had this discussion with my friend Harry while touring his garden today. Harry’s brother is Andy of Andy's Orchids here in Leucadia. I was picking up this Dendrobium speciosum Hillii. He recommended very shallow pots for me to replant some of my smaller specimens. I planted ssp Grandiflora on a thin bark layer on top of a rock that is slowly rooting after 2 years in the ground.

A complete bargain I had to buy it, even if has to stay in the greenhouse. The feedback so far is in the positive direction for living but you never know when it comes to winter. Richard

I can only try for such beautiful palm. Temperatures will get down to 2 degrees Celsius, so a good protected spot with lots of rocks around might see it being a winner time will tell.

Yep I had to buy for that price, a lot of palm that will explode once planted in the ground. I will acclimate it for a winter or two, it was grown on the Gold Coast so I stand some chance for now. But definitely score of the week in the palm sales department. You have to get up to PACSOA show next year for what’s available nowhere else.

So you’re a bold and a beautiful lady I take it. Got your eye on Ridge have you. Richard

I have grown many Sadleria from Jim at the fern factory. His original spore was collected in Hawaii. Many when young are very top heavy and floppy. Sometimes I plant them a little deeper, mound up the soil or stake them until they become more stable. They all look identical to the plant Rivera is growing. The photos are of my largest one with many pups. What is interesting is that the parent plant throws a red new leaf but some of the pups from the same plant, in the same location, put out a red new leaf and some a new green leaf. One of my favorite ferns in the garden. For me, grows best in full sun. I am about 3 miles from the beach. The one shown is south facing next to the cement driveway and never burns.

That is an awesome palm for the price Richard. Itaya has always been one of my favourite tropical palms I wish I could grow. A friend of mine has a nice one growing down here in a heated glasshouse. I think you’re a chance in your location but maybe keep it protected until it establishes. Here’s one at Gardens by the Bay in Singapore. Photo taken 9 years ago.

It’s too early. And unfortunately, Sabals do so poorly at being transplanted, it’s not 100% chance it survives at all. I would plant in like a 5 gallon pot, where they can stay for a while. And transplant after 2 years. They will need a solid root system and more vegetation to make it through winter. im zone 8a. Here’s my 2 year old palmetto In pot for 1 year, went in ground April 24.

I don't know the climate there, but I would wait until Late April/ Early May, or just pot them up until they get to a decent size before planting them

Hi all. I posted a few months ago about our sickly Howea belmoreana. @Darold Petty correctly diagnosed it as a K deficiency and recommended I put greensand down. I did, and the new leaves look much, much better. More recently I posted about our sickly Euterpe edulis, which I thought was due to sunburn (in the middle of the winter). I think there is some burn, but as the leaves get worse, they are starting to look like the Howea leaves did. The common denominator is that both are in beds with a dark grey gravel mulch. Is it possible that something is leaching out of the gravel, causing a K imbalance? I put down greensand at the Euterpe as well and hope that if this really is the problem, maybe it will help with the two leaves that are just now starting to open. Howea: Euterpe:

The annual pacsoa show is on this weekend and the buy of the week is this Itaya amicorum. What a gorgeous looking palm never heard of it but I have now. Hopefully it will take the cold you just never know until you try.

I was doing some garden cleanup and was disturbed to see a South American palm weevil on my Ravenea julietiae. Fortunately I had a pair of clippers in hand and was able to quickly kill it. While examining for any signs of bores I noticed the flwer spathe was beginning to open on its first spathe. The coincidence of timing prompted me to wonder if it was only coincidence or if something else was at work in attracting the weevil to this palm. I also have male and female Ravenea glauca, which will be flowering again this spring. Despite being mature enough to have flowered for a few years, they have not been prey yet. Leucadia CIDP have been hosting and victims of the SAPW for at least 3 years now, maybe longer. Is their information on what attracts the weevils to their prey, such as whether scent plays a role and / or sexual maturity of the palm?

Hey, everyone I recently got a new trachy with about 4 feet of trunk. It was originally in clay soil and that's also what I have it in. All of my other trees have been much smaller so I'm not too sure how much water I should be giving this until it's established. (I've since added more rocks, this is just a few days ago)

Coral Gables is a bit SW of Miami, but still z10b or z11a.

Gorgeous! And good info, thanks Michael.

In the public area of the Darwin Botanical Gardens it seems they only have female plants, which are always loaded with fruit with plenty laying on the ground. However (there's always a "but", but however will do here) they're small and sterile. I've heard they've got males "out the back" somewhere so maybe there's a breeding program there. I could imagine if they had plants with fertile fruits in the public area they probably wouldn't last long. It's completely open and unfenced. I know someone who works at the gardens, must get in contact with her and find out whether they have mature fruits that sometimes "fall off the back of a truck". 🫢

I don't like trimming of mature palms, the taller they get the worse it is. Self shedding palms become much appreciated as they grow tall.

Waggy planted where mule was. Couldn't take seeing the empty dirt spot any longer! https://www.youtube.com/shorts/HMSAP001GTw

The premise of the whole thread is negative.

Here is my L. chinensis. it was planted in 2006 but was protected with a greenhouse untill some 8 years ago....actually many times when it freezes here it is dry. Snow is very rare but humidity is very high so frost is not so rare but it is planted in very proteced spot. The ground rarely freezes up there and I never have seen frost on it

I took a drive to my garden this morning and took a few pics of my jubaeas, my Butia odorata and a cordyline......all plants were planted around 2007/2008....They all have grown a lot in that time B. odorata with a large Chamaerops growing underneath it. My mom for scale...

@Tracy I had a couple get confused by the early December cold front and then 3 warm weeks. A Revoluta up front started a tentative 3 or 4 leaf flush and then quit. A still unidentified big green Encephalartos in the backyard put up a big and successful 10+ leaf flush. The shiny ones in the center are just starting to go from lime green to deep green: And a Cycas Multipinnata in the backyard started a frond and quit trying around Christmas when the next cold fronts started rolling through. It looks like some bizarre alien octopus arm... As you can see, the weeds completely exploded everywhere in mid-December. I've been kind of hoping for another mild frost to kill them all off...

Here is what Jupiter looked like in the night sky from my backyard on November 23rd 2024. The atmosphere was steady that night allowing for high resolution. Usually the sky is unsteady after September as the Jet streams move down to Houston from the northern latitudes. On this particular night there was a gap in the jet streams over Houston. Jupiter's moon Io and its shadow can be seen. Ed in Houston

I never said it was impossible with a sophisticated shelter. I am merely stressing the extent that you will have to go to in order to get a CIDP through winter in a wet-cold 7b, especially once it starts gaining size. Look at that big, heated shelter the guy in Poland is putting up each winter (complete with an underground heating radiator system). That is a huge undertaking, both physically and financially! But where there is a will, there is obviously a way, if you are prepared to go to those lengths. For many people such a setup will just not be practical. And once it becomes too big to protect and too inconvenient (assuming they manage to grow it to that point), it is gong to get taken out by the winters there. A CIDP in Poland or NYC is ultimately going to be on borrowed time either way. You will only have it for as long as you can protect it. And that protection has to be on point. Something nobody in NYC appears to have been able to do, as of yet (hence why there isn't any there). But as I have previously said, I would love to see someone in NYC get a CIDP to a half decent size! I could fire back at you and keep the heated exchange going between us, but it will not be constructive in any way for the OP. Some people will want to see us get in a back and forth, for entertainment, but others will be getting annoyed by it, so I will try to keep things civil now. As I said, the OP doesn't gain anything from us arguing. I certainly don't get anything out of it and I doubt you do either. So I will heed Jonathans advice and chill. I have certainly not taken anything out on the OP either, which you suggest. I have tried to provide relevant input in my previous comments, as have some members from the PNW. Both the UK and the PNW have areas which are the upper limits for where CIDP can be grown anywhere, so our input is invaluable on what factors take out CIDP's in relation to temperatures and the wet-cold. We know what parts they will grow in exactly, and what parts they won't, even with limited protection. The bottom line is that you will need an exceptional and sophisticated shelter to get small CIDP's to grow on in NYC. Maybe the OP will be able to step up his protection a bit this year with better heating and airflow? I am also aware that New York has just had the driest November on record, hence the drought issue currently. That means very little however against climatology. We only had 0.2 inches of rainfall here in June, but now everywhere is a soaking wet boggy mess after a very wet September and October. Likewise, the 9 month period from November 2021 to August 2022 was record dry, however the 6 month period from October 2023 - March 2024 was the wettest 6 month period on record here. So it will always flip between wet and dry periods. That doesn't change the fact that NYC averages 50 inches of rain a year however. So it is quite wet there. As for your comment about me supposedly being angry about someone growing palms in NYC, I can assure you that is not the case. Myself and those in the PNW are probably sceptical about the prospects for something like CIDP, given our experiences, but I think most of us (myself included) would love to see a zone pushed CIDP flourishing in NYC with adequate protection. Do I think that is impossible? No. But I do think it is unlikely. I hope the OP can prove me wrong on this. Anyway, this is what the Polish guy's protection looked like during the first winter his CIDP was in the ground and I believe he planted it at a bigger size than the OP's. You can see that his drainage is very good there as well with lots of gravel. You may need to construct something akin to this setup for winter... @Nomad NYC Compared to now... He heats it with a radiator that is connected via underground pipes directly from the house and keeps it at about 50F during a proper freeze event when it could be almost 0F outside. So that's 50F of heating on the coldest of nights. He also heats the ground to 70F in spring as well once the shelter has come off, to help with it's growth. His annual precipitation is only 24 inches as well, which is less than half of NYC. Just saying. So a few factors to consider here with this zone pushed CIDP.

I have now protected the soil and stem with a heating cable and some fleece. The fronds are exposed to nights around 39f (4C). It’s a tall variety, Panama or Jamaican.

Who can testify to their cold hardiness? How did it go when the going got tough? I'm thinking mine will do ok outside here, but I've had it overwintered in my garage for a couple years. Scared... Plus, I have a ton of sun on my property, so I need to figure that out.

Many people have tried to grow Butia odorata in The Netherlands. But most did loose them after recent cold winters a couple of years ago. Only with good winter protection and artificial heating it will survive a cold winter. Maybe its a zone 8 palm. But lots of so called zone 8 plants are in the long term not really coldhardy here is my experience. The Netherlands have much more a zone 7 climate if you take into account the coldhardiness. Trachycarpus fortunei is an example of a palm wich can survive well here in the Low Countries. Well at least in the milder parts. In London they have good Butia odorata in some gardens. But overthere winters never get as cold as downhere. When we get -10 C in Londo it gets barely below -6 C. And it gets above zero much qiucker! Overthere they have more a zone 8 climate. Alexander