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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/2025 in all areas

  1. Here’s a double (formerly triple) in the front garden showing of some color.
    12 points
  2. It' s sunny today after two weeks of cold and rain, so I ' ll take some new pictures of my C. decipiens after arriving home.
    7 points
  3. I was over at Pauline Sullivan’s house ( now her grandson ) checking for seeds . I took this photo , looking up. Probably the parent to many Decipiens that are in North America. There are two very large specimens near the street. This is the largest . Harry I am 6’ tall looking up! I think I see a smile!
    4 points
  4. It was a beautiful autumn day wondering around the gardens. I only got to see a little piece of it with much more on display. Looks like a return trip is needed to see more.
    3 points
  5. Collorfull crownshaft of a Crysalidocarpus ( Dypsis) decipiens after old boot was removed today
    3 points
  6. I’m not sure whether it would be possible with Phoenix, but im confident it already exists within other smaller genera. Off the top of my head, there exists Howea belmoreana x forsteriana (or vice Versa) and there’s strong suspicion that Cyphophoenix elegans x nucele exists (assuming C alba and fulcita return to Veillonia and Campecarpus as has been suggested). I’d assume Adonidia merrillii x dransfieldii would be possible given A merrillii has been known to hybridise intergenerically. In any case, I’m not sure going down this path for any genus is likely to yield anything interesting, but there could be so much variability you’d never know. I’d guess in general you’d just have something that looks somewhere intermediate to all parents involved. For Phoenix it would take lifetimes of effort and would be difficult given that rarity of some species like P andamanensis. I’d suggest it wouldn’t be wise to dilute something like this in a hybrid.
    3 points
  7. @DonnaM welcome to PalmTalk! Foxtails are susceptible to cold damage anywhere close to freezing, especially with frost. Anywhere in the 30s could cause some leaf spotting that's mostly cosmetic. Into the 20s can cause severe burn or death, especially in a fairly young palm. To me that looks like some cosmetic cold damage. You can't "heal" the damage but a palm-type fertilizer will help it grow out quicker. Some good fertilizers are PalmGain and Florikan, though I tend to use cheap stuff like Sunniland 6-1-8.
    3 points
  8. Looks like cold damage. Mine had similar spots and marks last year.
    3 points
  9. More green in the center. Will plan to get them trimmed soon. Looking for some good fertilizer too.
    3 points
  10. Gonna wear a mask today as I head out this afternoon.. the sky is orange.. https://www.cnn.com/2025/03/03/weather/new-mexico-haboob-dust-storm/index.html
    2 points
  11. In January 2020 I received my Mule Palm from MPOM. Over the last 5 years its grown substantially and now I am faced with a decision to up-pot yet again, sale it, or plant it. Of course I chose to plant it. A new pot the next size up would be about $300, and then what? In 2 years I'll be faced with the same predicament. This mule has endured the last 3 seasons outside since it's been too large to come in the house since 2022. The lowest we've been since then is 10F and its suffered minimal to no damage (granted - I laid it on the ground and threw a bed sheet over it when it got that cold). Otherwise it's stayed outside year-round. Now, before anyone comes for me about planting it (Yes, I'm in zone 8) my logic is that considering its survival and knowing its marginal palm here - I am willing to see what happens. Who knows, maybe we won't have anymore century level events for the next 100 years. *fingers crossed* Anyway, the predicament has been WHERE to plant it; the backyard is quite full these days. So, the decision to remove my Namwah banana mat was made yesterday, and plant the mule in its place. While I love my bananas, and they do extremely well here - the Namwah was the right plant in the WRONG place and was a constant pain to keep off of the fence, and off of the patio. Not to mention I have plenty of other varieties of bananas. I made the right move. After 9 hours with only a quick dinner break today I managed to somehow remove the established mat of namwahs, and excavate a planting hole for the mule. (word to the wise - do not plant bananas without intent. Be sure that's where you want them for all eternity and have ample room around them. Oh, and use heavy lifting equipment if you need to move them.... ugh😫) Post trunk chop from winter and now the heavy lifting begins... About 2.5hours into it and I'm questioning my life choices ..... QUEUE 200 LB POTATO..... After about 6 hours I finally managed to get the giant potato from hell out of the ground and dig out a 2 foot deep 2 foot wide meteor impact crater .... *notice the red clay - if you know you know* Once removed from its prison... er, I mean pot.... I had to do some root pruning/releasing. It was extremely root bound and swirling. Once the mess of roots had been freed from themselves - the rest is the easy part. To settle in I made sure to add plenty of plant tone and water in incrementally as I back filled the hole using a mix of seaweed extract, superthrive, and root stimulator water. Hopefully that will minimize transplant shock. Fingers crossed. I do expect to lose some of the lower fronds just from how aggressive I had to be with the root mass. Finally after about 9 grueling hours, sunburnt and bleeding .... Hopefully the Mule likes this spot as much as the bananas did, and I get to see some explosive growth. As per usual it will receive nothing but regular waterings with seaweed and unsulfured molasses water to establish the root/soil microbiome this season with no fertilizers for the next 90 days. IMG_0208.HEIC
    2 points
  12. This is the problem with people using common names instead of the scientific names. Typically "Alexander Palm" refers to Ptychosperma elegans and "Alexandra King Palm" refers to Archontophoenix alexandrae (sometimes mistakenly called Alexander King Palm). The Ptychosperma has a thinner trunk, is less cold hardy and only reaches half the height of the Archontophoenix.
    2 points
  13. I’d say she’s referring to Archontophoenix alexandrae.
    2 points
  14. Wanted to showcase a couple of my Chamaerops humilis var. argentea. Slow growing species that does wonderfully under many different growing conditions. Nice blue accent palm for a smaller yard.👍 aztropic Mesa, Arizona
    2 points
  15. Here’s an anthurium i got from ecuagenera last month at our orchid show. I forgot the name but the red “bloom” really stands out amongst the plants in the sunroom. Gongora fulva in bloom right over it.
    2 points
  16. Wood is slow to break down as well... Still have a few pieces i'd collected for Orchid mounts back in ...2008.
    2 points
  17. So many fine species to choose from. I'm fond of Garrya elliptica and Cupressus macrocarpa, but my favorite locally native tree is Umbellularia californica. Oily leaves, rich and lustrous green, emitting a pungent and peppery aroma when crushed that makes my scalp tingle. Photos are mine, some from Samuel P Taylor SP and some from a redwood grove right near where I grew up. Often seen as an understory plant in redwood forest, but a striking and substantial tree itself given the opportunity.
    2 points
  18. They are quite handsome, and as the link states, supportive to a vast number of species in the local ecology. They are also prolific and will sprout many acorns each season. They thrive in coastal areas where redwoods do not.
    2 points
  19. I don't see any issues with the health of that seedling. Looks to be a Washingtonia seedling, which produce filaments These are very tenacious but would perform better in a pot that's deeper that it is wide. This will outgrow it's container rather rapidly. This is my 3 year old seedling.
    2 points
  20. I see ups and downs in the temps for March. Check on YouTube for one of the weather geek channels. Those guys will look ahead a couple weeks.
    2 points
  21. Washingtonia in pots need a lot of water. I bought mine last January and was waiting to plant. I went around 3 days without watering and the fronds started browning off and it set them back a bit. When I planted them I realized there was virtually no soil in the pots just a giant mass of roots. The sagos are very forgiving. I agree with Harry I'd probably wait a couple of more weeks to see what the long term forecasts look like. Any freezing temps I'd throw them in the garage. I'm pretty cautious with potted plants though.
    2 points
  22. On a palm that size in a pot, less is more! I would suggest no more than a half a handful of Sunniland 6-1-8 or Palmgain 8-2-12. In pots I frequently use Osmocote, just because there's less risk of burning roots. If you use granular I'd do smaller amounts once a month instead of a bigger dose once every three months. If you are planting it, just wait until it's not likely to go below ~40F at night. Don't put fertilizer in the hole, but make sure you loosen up the soil around it. If you aren't planting it, stepping that up to a 7g would be a good choice.
    2 points
  23. I think they are the same thing. The one that says “Chelated” is an older bottle. This can be applied on the foliage or the ground. Keep in mind that these are only supplements and you should apply a regular palm fertilizer first.
    2 points
  24. I did contemplate leaving the wife behind for more space in the car. But you know a smart wouldn’t do that at all, now all I gotta do is go back and pick her up 🤣 Richard
    2 points
  25. So long as there is enough moisture to keep the palm from drying out and the soil in the pot. You should be fine . It won’t be that long before you will be planting them. Harry
    2 points
  26. Also, if you don't already have one, buy a rain gauge. Our spring weather (in the southeast ) is usually fairly wet so you may not need to do much watering at times. The hole in the bucket method is what I use. Now in the heat of summer and during dry spells, I have used around 20g (4 bucket fulls) at a time or so for bigger (mine have around 3-6' of trunk on them) windmills. That is in the summer though so you should not need near that much this time of year, not to mention the potential rainfall too.
    2 points
  27. Yes, I think suggestion is good. dear beauties grows 🤗😁
    2 points
  28. I am super excited to announce a new travel concept from the International Palm Society. Introducing the “Weekend Biennial”! And our first will be in the Rio Grande Valley this December: Friday night December 12 - Sunday afternoon, December 14, 2025 We’re equally thrilled to partner with the Palm Society of South Texas and their indefatigable president @Chuck M PSST This will be an unequaled opportunity to mingle with fellow Palm-talkers, view palms in habitat, visit private gardens, enjoy lectures by noted botanical experts, and we are particularly proud of the included meals featuring local specialties. Of course there is much more to follow and I am looking forward to sharing it all with everyone here on Palm talk. The event will be restricted to one gregarious bus load of palm nuts, about 56 total. The registration will open on Palm talk, likely in early June. Andy🌴
    1 point
  29. They've been naturalized in northern California for a long time as well, and there are dense stands in some locations. However, I've never seen a Washingtonia bear an infructescence in my cool seaside neighborhood in San Francisco even though they reproduce easily and prolifically in every surrounding county. A modicum of seasonal heat seems to be the missing bit.
    1 point
  30. Ok I get that growers want to create hybrid palms for various reasons like ornamental or cold hardiness. The work involved in such a project I respect the horticultural skill and knowledge and time that is put into by a breeder be it for financial gain or just as n mentioned above. This is where I will say it’s not good for the future generation of palms in a whole. Imagine if you hybridised a palm that was on the verge of extinction. Not a good outcome even Einstein would work out that it’s not good thing in a blink of an eye. What are we leaving for future generations to have hybrid plants. Look at GMO crops of corn when they lose that to some disease it can happen, then the future of humanity is at jeopardy for a food source simply because it was money oriented. Hybrid plants have a place in Mother Nature that occur naturally it’s not up to us to create some lab orientated plant. Please for the love of the planet leave Mother Nature alone for the future of all humankind!
    1 point
  31. Thank you both so very much. I will go get some fertilizer and start right away.
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. There’s was quite a few a few I didn’t even entertain the idea of growing. Mapu licuala orbicularis. Oh I would complain and sell my house and move ……
    1 point
  34. That seems about right unless , of course , there is a rain event that waters the palm for you. Be sure to do the finger in the soil check to make sure it is not drying out or getting too much water. Weather can affect the requirements. Harry
    1 point
  35. Here are some mature Sabal mexicana in Plazuela de San Pedro, Antigua Guatemala. They had the boots removed by chainsaw and have an interesting trunk pattern now. Seems to me that Sabal mexicana is synonymous with Sabal guatemalensis. There were no fruits to be seen on any of the palms, the birds stripped them clean.
    1 point
  36. An update on one of the coconuts in the last post - it is now known fruiting and is a Golden Malayan to my surprise. It has no foliar damage at at all from the cool spell and is loaded with fruit.
    1 point
  37. March kicking things off with flare ..the sneaky way.. No clouds in the sky all day until right as the sun was setting ...so no catching this one from elsewhere today..
    1 point
  38. It's clearly not happy and I knew moving it might be a death sentence but I decided it was going to die if it continued to swim! I dug a 15-gal size hole for a 3-gal size palm and it seems like I was able to keep the "bulb" and roots intact but maybe broke one root in the process. Maybe it'll survive? Meanwhile I've taken advantage of the conditions to plant an Acoelorraphe wrightii, Ravenea rivularis and a Phoenix paludosa hybrid (thanks @ahosey01!)
    1 point
  39. Great palm! I’m sure you are going to grow it well. I can’t add anything regrading cold hardiness but I do have one that does pretty good on the coast however the leafs tend to get a bit burnt from the sea breeze and sun. Overall a great palm.
    1 point
  40. Aquazoo – Löbbecke Museum - here we were 🤭😁
    1 point
  41. Here is a good overview of fire dynamics in California. https://www.sfgate.com/la/article/los-angeles-fires-nightmare-20038192.php
    1 point
  42. I was just reading through the debate on the wildfires, and thought it was interesting and I wanted to put out a little info because after my experience this past summer, wildfires are a really interesting topic to me now... I grew up in California, and in my mind the wildfires were always just a natural disaster that happened, I didn't really spend too much time focusing on how they actually worked, or how they were managed. I live in Florida now, but I returned out West from April-October to spend the whole (traditional) fire season working as a federal wildland firefighter on a 20 person hand crew, which is really as close as you can get to the fire and as hands-on as you can get with the fires themselves. We fought fires in California, Nevada, Idaho, Colorado, and Wyoming. I learned alot about them, so hopefully there's a few things that I could clear up. As for the comments about controlled burning, and our mismanagement of fires. This is not really so much a political thing, or a California-specific thing either. This is more complex than that and there's alot of history here, and a whole bunch of variables like climate, past decisions, landscape changes, new development, etc. In the 1930s, there was a good number of massive fires, and in response the Forest Service adopted a very aggressive approach to fighting fire, and began alot of the methodology that we have been using in recent history. In 1935 specifically, they adopted the methodology that they wanted all wildfires controlled immediately after the initial report. This has been our methodology when it comes to fighting fire as a nation for quite awhile.... "you see flames, circle them, put it out!". If humans weren't there to do that, the land would just burn. It's not political, and whether it was a good idea or not is anyone's guess. What is undebatable though, is that because we took this approach for so long we have hindered some of nature's process of burning the land. This is one of the factors that has led to an accumulation of fuels in our wildlands which has led to bigger fires, which we are dealing with now. This doesn't automatically mean that it was a bad decision to fight fires so aggressively. It's just a decision we made nation-wide, and there has been an effect from that. This is also far from the only factor in increasing wildfire intensity. Just one of many. The landscape has also changed in several ways, and many areas in our nation have more fuel cover than they did decades ago. There is also an increasing spread of the population. We now have many people living in areas that were previously uninhabited. This increases the WUI (Wildland Urban Interface), and makes wildand fire fighting much more difficult. 50 years ago, if a certain area burned, it didn't really matter because there wasn't anybody living there. Now there is people living there, so it's a big deal. In regards to the prescribed burns, they are absolutely being done by wildland crews. I participated in several. And it's the main job of crews that stay on through the winter. There are entire crews called "fuels crews" that are dedicated to this. But we have ALOT of land in this country, and very few wildland firefighters comparatively. It's impossible to prevent these things from happening by just doing controlled burns or any other human intervention. If you spend time out West in the wilderness areas, you will quickly realize how insurmountable of a task this is, due to the vast size of the area. In the wildfire community, all of these things are being discussed in regards to the accumulation of fuels, controlled burns, how to efficiently manage fires now, etc. Methods are used such as the "big box method", where a wildfire is not extinguished immediately and is allowed to burn out a larger area and we just head miles out in front of the fire, build fireline, and burn out all the fuels in advance of the fire, then allow the fire to go all the way to that point and then the fire dies out because we've already burned everything in a controlled way and on our terms. This is a different approach then just encircling the fire immediately and extinguishing it, and allows nature some more room to work and do what's natural for us. Anyways, hope that clears a few things up that I also wasn't aware of before this Summer. Basically there's numerous factors.. previous decisions as a nation, increasing population and growing WUI (people living in areas they didn't before), accumulation of fuels, overall "land:people" ratio being skewed heavily towards the land winning out big time.... many factors.
    1 point
  43. Laughable at best, and a really bad arm chair take on the situation.. #1: California does PLENTY of prescribed burns, every year.. #2: You do realize that when you have 100MPH winds and ember storms created by those winds, On top of the fact that many areas in S. Cal haven't seen any rain since ...last APRIL, anything that catches on fire of this magnitude is likely destined to burn ..To the foundation.. #3: Is this really your opinion? 🤦‍♂️ Might examine footage a bit more closely. PLENTY of " Street Palm " specimens went up ..and contributed firebrands / ember cast into the fire itself.. in both of these fires, and countless others, over and over again.. After this experience, Guarantee discussions among various municipalities out there about inclusion of palms in future landscaping, esp in the really high risk WUI zones will come up.. As far as the vegetation type itself, yes it is dense.. that is called " Chaparral " ..it has always been there, and experienced periodic fire ...Forest vs. Chaparral? Totally different vegetation types... Completely different behavior during... / response after a fire.. Please educate yourself on California ecology..
    1 point
  44. Trying to log in using my phone and I keep getting error messages that the password for the user WaianaeCRider is wrong. Well that's NOT ME. I'm WaianaeCrider. I even went in and changed my password and still can't get in. I"ve been in before but everything on my phone got cleared and I have to log into everything all over. I'm using CROME on the phone. Keep trying to log in as WaianaeCrider but it keeps telling me password for the user WaianaeCRider is wrong. I even tried loging in as WaianaeCRider and it still gets rejected. I'm confused.
    1 point
  45. Idea: Create another forum for memes and sh*tposts about palms… That’s it.
    1 point
  46. I have an Iphone 13 I can’t see older messages in any conversations. I clicked everywhere lol Look what i circled in the pic, i can’t open it. Thxs Pat
    1 point
  47. Wow. Just wow. I wish I was knowledgable enough about cycads (the sago is a cycad, not a palm) to know whether your plant can survive that kind of damage to its central growth area. That may depend on whether the stem has been fatally damaged. I suggest you post this topic in "Other Tropical Plants" subforum where it will be seen by more people. We have some knowledgable cycad growers here, too. Good luck.
    1 point
  48. Most palms which I have experimented with and which I saw in nurseries (e.g. even Lytocaryum weddellianum) don’t grow in swampy environments. (You can grow also cacti in hydroponics.) What you have to do with the water to keep it clean and O2 rich etc. you can read in every hydroculture information, it is not a special matter of palms. Even palms like Phoenix reclinata and Cocos nucifera which grow well with "wet feet" get in their habitats always fresh O2 rich water. — Here pics from the book »Mehr Blumenfreude durch Hydrokultur« (1980) with a photo of Cocos seedlings and a remark to Microcoelum weddellianum with the grading »M. geht sehr gut« = “excellent suited to hydro”:
    1 point
  49. I received nearly 2 dozen Attalea humilis seeds from the FNGLA auction site a few weeks ago. I left them alone until I was sure summer heat arrived. This past weekend I set 6 of these seeds soaking. I plan to put them in individual tallpots with cactus soil and plenty of perlite then place them in the shade so heat and humidity work their wonders. That is how I germinated my only Attalea butyracea seedling in 2009. Does anyone have any suggestions on germinating this palm and care of seedlings? Who else has grown it and can you provide photos? Thanks.
    1 point
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