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Here’s a double (formerly triple) in the front garden showing of some color.

It' s sunny today after two weeks of cold and rain, so I ' ll take some new pictures of my C. decipiens after arriving home.

I was over at Pauline Sullivan’s house ( now her grandson ) checking for seeds . I took this photo , looking up. Probably the parent to many Decipiens that are in North America. There are two very large specimens near the street. This is the largest . Harry I am 6’ tall looking up! I think I see a smile!

It was a beautiful autumn day wondering around the gardens. I only got to see a little piece of it with much more on display. Looks like a return trip is needed to see more.

Collorfull crownshaft of a Crysalidocarpus ( Dypsis) decipiens after old boot was removed today

I’m not sure whether it would be possible with Phoenix, but im confident it already exists within other smaller genera. Off the top of my head, there exists Howea belmoreana x forsteriana (or vice Versa) and there’s strong suspicion that Cyphophoenix elegans x nucele exists (assuming C alba and fulcita return to Veillonia and Campecarpus as has been suggested). I’d assume Adonidia merrillii x dransfieldii would be possible given A merrillii has been known to hybridise intergenerically. In any case, I’m not sure going down this path for any genus is likely to yield anything interesting, but there could be so much variability you’d never know. I’d guess in general you’d just have something that looks somewhere intermediate to all parents involved. For Phoenix it would take lifetimes of effort and would be difficult given that rarity of some species like P andamanensis. I’d suggest it wouldn’t be wise to dilute something like this in a hybrid.

@DonnaM welcome to PalmTalk! Foxtails are susceptible to cold damage anywhere close to freezing, especially with frost. Anywhere in the 30s could cause some leaf spotting that's mostly cosmetic. Into the 20s can cause severe burn or death, especially in a fairly young palm. To me that looks like some cosmetic cold damage. You can't "heal" the damage but a palm-type fertilizer will help it grow out quicker. Some good fertilizers are PalmGain and Florikan, though I tend to use cheap stuff like Sunniland 6-1-8.

Looks like cold damage. Mine had similar spots and marks last year.

More green in the center. Will plan to get them trimmed soon. Looking for some good fertilizer too.

In January 2020 I received my Mule Palm from MPOM. Over the last 5 years its grown substantially and now I am faced with a decision to up-pot yet again, sale it, or plant it. Of course I chose to plant it. A new pot the next size up would be about $300, and then what? In 2 years I'll be faced with the same predicament. This mule has endured the last 3 seasons outside since it's been too large to come in the house since 2022. The lowest we've been since then is 10F and its suffered minimal to no damage (granted - I laid it on the ground and threw a bed sheet over it when it got that cold). Otherwise it's stayed outside year-round. Now, before anyone comes for me about planting it (Yes, I'm in zone 8) my logic is that considering its survival and knowing its marginal palm here - I am willing to see what happens. Who knows, maybe we won't have anymore century level events for the next 100 years. *fingers crossed* Anyway, the predicament has been WHERE to plant it; the backyard is quite full these days. So, the decision to remove my Namwah banana mat was made yesterday, and plant the mule in its place. While I love my bananas, and they do extremely well here - the Namwah was the right plant in the WRONG place and was a constant pain to keep off of the fence, and off of the patio. Not to mention I have plenty of other varieties of bananas. I made the right move. After 9 hours with only a quick dinner break today I managed to somehow remove the established mat of namwahs, and excavate a planting hole for the mule. (word to the wise - do not plant bananas without intent. Be sure that's where you want them for all eternity and have ample room around them. Oh, and use heavy lifting equipment if you need to move them.... ugh😫) Post trunk chop from winter and now the heavy lifting begins... About 2.5hours into it and I'm questioning my life choices ..... QUEUE 200 LB POTATO..... After about 6 hours I finally managed to get the giant potato from hell out of the ground and dig out a 2 foot deep 2 foot wide meteor impact crater .... *notice the red clay - if you know you know* Once removed from its prison... er, I mean pot.... I had to do some root pruning/releasing. It was extremely root bound and swirling. Once the mess of roots had been freed from themselves - the rest is the easy part. To settle in I made sure to add plenty of plant tone and water in incrementally as I back filled the hole using a mix of seaweed extract, superthrive, and root stimulator water. Hopefully that will minimize transplant shock. Fingers crossed. I do expect to lose some of the lower fronds just from how aggressive I had to be with the root mass. Finally after about 9 grueling hours, sunburnt and bleeding .... Hopefully the Mule likes this spot as much as the bananas did, and I get to see some explosive growth. As per usual it will receive nothing but regular waterings with seaweed and unsulfured molasses water to establish the root/soil microbiome this season with no fertilizers for the next 90 days. IMG_0208.HEIC

Gonna wear a mask today as I head out this afternoon.. the sky is orange.. https://www.cnn.com/2025/03/03/weather/new-mexico-haboob-dust-storm/index.html

This is the problem with people using common names instead of the scientific names. Typically "Alexander Palm" refers to Ptychosperma elegans and "Alexandra King Palm" refers to Archontophoenix alexandrae (sometimes mistakenly called Alexander King Palm). The Ptychosperma has a thinner trunk, is less cold hardy and only reaches half the height of the Archontophoenix.

I’d say she’s referring to Archontophoenix alexandrae.

Wanted to showcase a couple of my Chamaerops humilis var. argentea. Slow growing species that does wonderfully under many different growing conditions. Nice blue accent palm for a smaller yard.👍 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Here’s an anthurium i got from ecuagenera last month at our orchid show. I forgot the name but the red “bloom” really stands out amongst the plants in the sunroom. Gongora fulva in bloom right over it.

Wood is slow to break down as well... Still have a few pieces i'd collected for Orchid mounts back in ...2008.

So many fine species to choose from. I'm fond of Garrya elliptica and Cupressus macrocarpa, but my favorite locally native tree is Umbellularia californica. Oily leaves, rich and lustrous green, emitting a pungent and peppery aroma when crushed that makes my scalp tingle. Photos are mine, some from Samuel P Taylor SP and some from a redwood grove right near where I grew up. Often seen as an understory plant in redwood forest, but a striking and substantial tree itself given the opportunity.

They are quite handsome, and as the link states, supportive to a vast number of species in the local ecology. They are also prolific and will sprout many acorns each season. They thrive in coastal areas where redwoods do not.

I don't see any issues with the health of that seedling. Looks to be a Washingtonia seedling, which produce filaments These are very tenacious but would perform better in a pot that's deeper that it is wide. This will outgrow it's container rather rapidly. This is my 3 year old seedling.

I see ups and downs in the temps for March. Check on YouTube for one of the weather geek channels. Those guys will look ahead a couple weeks.

Washingtonia in pots need a lot of water. I bought mine last January and was waiting to plant. I went around 3 days without watering and the fronds started browning off and it set them back a bit. When I planted them I realized there was virtually no soil in the pots just a giant mass of roots. The sagos are very forgiving. I agree with Harry I'd probably wait a couple of more weeks to see what the long term forecasts look like. Any freezing temps I'd throw them in the garage. I'm pretty cautious with potted plants though.

On a palm that size in a pot, less is more! I would suggest no more than a half a handful of Sunniland 6-1-8 or Palmgain 8-2-12. In pots I frequently use Osmocote, just because there's less risk of burning roots. If you use granular I'd do smaller amounts once a month instead of a bigger dose once every three months. If you are planting it, just wait until it's not likely to go below ~40F at night. Don't put fertilizer in the hole, but make sure you loosen up the soil around it. If you aren't planting it, stepping that up to a 7g would be a good choice.

I think they are the same thing. The one that says “Chelated” is an older bottle. This can be applied on the foliage or the ground. Keep in mind that these are only supplements and you should apply a regular palm fertilizer first.

I did contemplate leaving the wife behind for more space in the car. But you know a smart wouldn’t do that at all, now all I gotta do is go back and pick her up 🤣 Richard

So long as there is enough moisture to keep the palm from drying out and the soil in the pot. You should be fine . It won’t be that long before you will be planting them. Harry

Also, if you don't already have one, buy a rain gauge. Our spring weather (in the southeast ) is usually fairly wet so you may not need to do much watering at times. The hole in the bucket method is what I use. Now in the heat of summer and during dry spells, I have used around 20g (4 bucket fulls) at a time or so for bigger (mine have around 3-6' of trunk on them) windmills. That is in the summer though so you should not need near that much this time of year, not to mention the potential rainfall too.

Yes, I think suggestion is good. dear beauties grows 🤗😁

The annual pacsoa show is on this weekend and the buy of the week is this Itaya amicorum. What a gorgeous looking palm never heard of it but I have now. Hopefully it will take the cold you just never know until you try.

..Now the question is ..Will you be able to out run the earworm.. Agree, Don't recall it being listed on the tag but wondering if this is a " Fruffles " / " Rancho Ruffles " clone.. 🤔 Figure it will be easier to tell once it reaches the size where it starts throwing bigger leaves..

Congratulations on making it through the winter! And thank you for the ear-worm 😆. I’ll be bearing through that on the treadmill in a few minutes. such interesting undulations on those leaves.

The forecast has been upgraded again. Today is running above the forecast so I'd imagine it could be even warmer. Crystal clear skies again today.

Texas root rot is the big problem with them down here but if they get enough trunk on em they should survive your worst winters and come back from the ground anyways. Assuming they don't get root rot.

One of my favorite flowers normally here they start blooming Sometime in February normally mid to late

Just make sure roots aren’t exposed. Harry

Great palm! I’m sure you are going to grow it well. I can’t add anything regrading cold hardiness but I do have one that does pretty good on the coast however the leafs tend to get a bit burnt from the sea breeze and sun. Overall a great palm.

Was 25.1C when this photo was taken at 7pm local time a few hours ago. Was soaking it up down at the local lake, formed by a large hydro-electric dam, 5km by cycle path from home. Only a few more weeks of being able to do this after work. 🥲

Don't worry about it. Usually you can tell if someone has dyslexia or is just being lazy. On the internet it doesn't matter that much because most people don't care about their spelling and grammar anyway.

What is longterm? If you take 30 years then there is a chance there will be a winter that will kill all palms except T. fortunei. I also thought that longterm only T. fortunei can be regarded as the only palm that will survive longterm but after seeing what dies in texas and florida for example then there too they need to protect some palms during those extreme winters so I do not count those extreme winters in anymore when it comes to cold hardiness. You just need to accept the fact that very rarely there is a killer winter and you will need to protect some things. If I have to do this once every 15/20 or maybe 30 years I can live with that. Most winters up here are Z9a with some winters even being 9b and some 8b avarage rainfall in the coastal region up here is around 700mm. My Butia is not just surviving, it flowers profusely and has viable seeds. I have several offsprings growing of my Butia. Jubeae also does great, I have 2 big ones and one small one that germinated in the garden over 15 years ago and never saw any protection (it is sheltered underneath 3 big trachycarpus that gives it overhead protection). I think another factor that limits what you can grow is the intensity of the sun. This goes down the more you go north and I think some palmspecies just starve with the low sun intensity up north. Maybe this is why it is more dificult to grow palms like Butia in the more northern parts of the Netherlands? record high temperature right at the sea on the beach at my coast is 40°C!!!(Koksijde beach) I do not think coastal areas in holland get those kind of temperatures in summer

European Fan Palm (Chamaerops humilis) in Hubert, N.C. Link to Google Street View: https://maps.app.goo.gl/89DEpZfVnp4vBFGZA

Here is a good overview of fire dynamics in California. https://www.sfgate.com/la/article/los-angeles-fires-nightmare-20038192.php

Southern California chapparal has evolved for periodic burning. Washingtonia petioles are a known source of firebrands propelled forward by the Santa Ana winds. The four dams removed on the Klamath river are 700 miles north of Los Angeles.

do you happen to know a good place where I could buy a filifera potted or seed?

Steve - I sent you my email via PM. Send me the photo and I’ll try and upload it myself. That will tell me a lot.

Been using the "choose file." method.

Hi, I just want to check to make sure. Instead of naming any vendor, can I just write about the experience and my surprise?

Beautiful! I forgot that the genus was reclassified. In photo-2, is that a ring-necked tamanduá?

Here’s a picture of a red “maroon leaf” single one here in south Florida at nursery. Very pretty palm.

2022 Hawaiian Islands — Oahu, Hilo and Kona (on the Big Island) New Caledonia will be our 33rd biennial! Jeff, I’m stoked to see you and Andrea in New Caledonia. It is going to be an astonishingly memorable biennial. Andy

I should be able to read the whole conversation still even if she did not answer the last message. it must be my iphone. Thxs Pat

Matt with an epiphytic Cyathea!! A cool Philodendron! Volunteer Caryota!! (probably Urens) Attalea humilis