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Flowers... they caught my eye.

New Palms for the Spring Season We are ringing in the Spring season with a brand new price list, new palms for your nursery / garden, alongside our extensive list of rare and exotic species. First we have a restock of Kentiopsis piersoniorum (pictured above). This New Caledonian beauty adds a dramatic flair to any garden and is sought after, and Floribunda is one of the only places you can find it, available now as seedlings for $25.00. We continue our New Caledonian theme with Cyphophoenix nucele, a palm that has a beautiful white crownshaft and upright leaves, available in 4in size for $8.50. Basselinia glabrata is an amazing talking point in the garden, with its interesting stacked inflorescences. These are available as 1 gallon sized plants at $20.00. Hailing from São Paulo, Brazil, Lytocaryum hoehnei is endangered in the wild, but you can help preserve or distribute it to add it to more gardens and preserve this beautiful species. Seedlings available now for $4.00. Reinhardtia latisecta from Central America has amazing wide leaflets and beautiful inflorescences. A wonderful clustering understory palm for warmer climates. All this and more are on our new price list, enter (N) into the search to filter out the new items, but don't forget to explore the rest of the list for old favorites! We also have the trunking cycad Lepidozamia hopeii available in our cycad section! https://floribunda.xyz/pricelist

It's effect on cold hardiness is prolly next to zero.. as far as damage goes it may be more of a factor because at cooler air/soil temps the plant systems water uptake..circulation per se..is alot slower than during the growing season.. the leaves will transpire the water more quickly and possibly the leaves will desicate because it can't replace the moisture loss.. now thinking about that..it may have an effect on the palms survival but not necessarily it's overall cold hardiness.. not sure if spear pull is a factor in all that versus freezing in the bud..

The "Feels like" is just that. What it feels like to a human on bare skin. We create our own body heat. So think of things like wind/water being a force that quickly removes the heat generated from our bodies. I think the opposite is easiest to explain... 100 degrees in dry Las Vegas heat-> you sweat, and it quickly evaporates into the dry air - allowing you to cool "easily". Ive walked around the Vegas strip at 100 degrees and not have sweat on my shirt. Or a cold drink by the pool, and no condensation on it! weird. Now, 90 degrees in Florida at 90% humidity - The air is saturated already, making that water harder to evaporate away - slowing down how well you can cool yourself. And you're drenched in sweat almost immediately. This is where the humidity impacts the "feels like" temp. This is how I understand it.

I just put in this queen and an everglades palm by my house

When I was living in Arizona in 2008, I saw a really nice p. rupicola triple at treeland in chandler. I was inspired by the curved trunks and nice green canopy. When I moved to florida I found a nursery MB palms that carried 1g size rupicolas. I liked the rupicola for its cold tolerance(26F) and its bright green foliage. It also has thorns that don't hurt you, they bend at the base of the thorn. Having been stabbed many times by my various phoenix species I grew in Arizona, I was interested in a pain free trimming process. This triple was planted in early summer 2011 and has been a slow, easy care grower. I thought it might be a permanent hedge but now it looks as if its going to be exactly what I wanted, an attractive medium height canopy for filtering hot western sun. It has fruited 3x the last one a full load of striking red fruits(sorry, no picture). The three palms grew away from each other more than any triple I ever tried, no need to tilt a palm when planting. Here is a pic taken today of the overall palm, and a close up of the trunks. just after a post hurricane Milton trim of the many(30-35) dead leaves After many of my other palms have grown tall and more difficult to view into the crown this one still gives a nice crown view. Anybody out there have phoenix rupicola pic/experiences. they would like to share. For scale, the fence is 4'.

Stay safe my palm friends!

If last weekend’s plant sales at the pacsoa show wasn’t enough of a fix of palms, iam at again with some great little gems online. This time with a pholidostachys species, licuala poonsaki, Zamia nana new accumunata and a philodendron Bob Cee. This little haul along with last weekend’s plants might do for a week of plant fix’s. By then it will be time to buy some more for another plant fix.

Southeastern Palm Society winter meeting at the Georgia Coastal Botanic garden. I mainly took pictures of the sabals there, I missed a few for sure. We were given the tour by the 2 guys who planted all these sabals over 20 years ago, some 30 years ago. Sabal minor TX hill country, this will become important to refer back to in a minutesame Sabal minor as above close up of baseSabal Birmingham there’s 3 in a group here and three directly behind me in a group.Sabal etonia Sabal mexicana Sabal minor Cape Hatteras. The TX hill country minor is about 5 feet tall, the Cape hatteras minor is overhead about 10 feet tall both planted at the same time. Nice seeing different sabals planted close to each other. Differences like this really stand out Full view of the Sabal minor Hatteras Sabal Louisiana. I’ve heard there’s more genetic testing being done on all bunch of sabals. Hopefully it will shed some light on palms like this where there’s been much arguments over the years. I know it’s classified as a variation of Sabal minor but my eyes tell me it’s something different Trio of Sabal Louisiana Sabal causiarum. So for the real palm nerds this causiarum is portraying the lisoid cupped/ fused leaves like Sabal palmetto ‘Lisa’Sabal palmetto var Bahamaniensis aka parviflora. I immediately thought this was a Sabal bermudana but after some discussion the inflorescence and seeds are directly in line with palmetto. This may be the prettiest Sabal I’ve ever seen. Really elegant, clean ringed trunk. Wide stiffer leaflets than typical messy floppy palmetto. I believe this is green Sabal Uresana Sabal mexicana left and Sabal palmetto right

I went to Houston a few weeks back and saw these beautiful Butias:

Thanks for the responses guys. So the conclusion I've derived from your answers is that I should only look at the actual temp regardless of the wind when it comes to strictly palm survival of cold. If I'm worried about potential frond damage, it could be something to consider because of increased transpiration. Sounds like what this means for me is that maybe I should move some of the slower-growing palms like sabals inside during this windy/cold event to avoid setting them back too much for the growing season.

What's an "everglades" palm? I see what appears to be a Med palm (Chamaerops humilis)? Lookin' good.

Looks like real spring and calendar spring will coincide this year here. This week has been all sunny and warm and will remain so for another few days at least. Maximum of 18 C / 65F today and minimum of 3 C / 37F. The weekend will be warmer apparently. No rain expected. Today I had to remove spidermites from my Colocasia and it's only beginning of March!!! 😫

@Desert DAC There is a whole thread about it, right here on palmtalk.

Those are nice additions!

thank you so much for your answers and the warm welcoming ! the Howea is directly planted in the clay pot yes ! just touched the bottom of it and it's still wet indeed even after a few days i will be extremely careful with the watering, stay on the dry side and see what happens ! so definitely a overpotted situation.. @piping plovers your howeas are beautiful wowww !! the dark green leaves are incredible, do you use any fertlizer? will keep you posted !! thank you everyone !!

I have them in the bath, the laundry, my work studio and on the ground in the shade house. Hopefully when this is all over I will still have a shadehouse. Peachy P.S. My garage is full of parrots and budgies

Unless Tropical Cyclone Alfred blows the garage roof off, my rarest and most vulnerable palms (that could easily be moved) are now safe.

Aside from Spring flowers and Spring projects, Spring is always a great time for resuming hunting for stuff on the " hit " lists.. Figures that while on a mission to add another Tomato, i'd find something on one of those lists.. In this case, a " Jungle Cacti " that has been ..on the list.. for years.. It really should be an easy find, but ..for whatever reason, hasn't been, up until recently. I hadn't intended to look around again until later but size of these specimens = couldn't pass on the opportunity. Epiphyllum * Formally Selenicereus * chrysocardium ..The most exotic looking of the " Fishbone / Ric Rac " - Type Epiphyllums.. On a humorous, -and somewhat disappointing- side note, Tag on all of these on the shelf where found were labeled as a ....Philodendron.. 🤣 ..Could not be any further from one of those.. Funny ..and sad.. that the nursery these came from ( Well known whole seller in S. Cal. ) didn't catch a very obvious faux pas ...before the plants were distributed. ..Now to find a larger pot / spot outside where it won't get thrashed by the sun / heat.. ...And get it out of the grower's Peat Moss Trash..

Konstantinos, they are doing great here, one of the best species to grow, I have 3 in the garden, I like them so much and they don't need any care

Awesome palms Tom! I bought this field dug rupicola in 2023. Perhaps now I have a better understanding of why it didn't survive a full year for me in alkaline soil during a hot drought in spite of adequate irrigation. I don't think it was 100% pure since the thorns were fairly rigid. Interestingly last year I planted one that I grew from seed and it's doing fine - no damage at 27°F.

Welcome! First, what a beautiful pot and presentation of the palm; very architectural. I can’t tell if the plant is directly planted in that tall clay pot or if it’s potted in another smaller pot sitting within the tall clay pot. Despite that gorgeous pot, my concern is that if the plant is planted directly in it, then it may be too much soil remaining wet beneath the actual root ball. Lean towards less water in a pot that deep. I would check to see if the bottom of that deep pot is remaining wet. I would also check where the actual root ball is and you may want to keep it in a pot that is approximately an inch wider around the sides and then maybe no more than 2” underneath the root ball. That is how I grow mine. I’m not familiar with pouzzolane. If it adds airflow similar to large chunks of perlite or lava rock or clay nuggets then I think it adds to drainage and porous soil, which is what I use. A deep pot like that could work if you add a lot of porous ingredients to the mix and be very careful not to over water. Some photos below of belmoreanas I have been growing indoors for 10 years; summer outdoors in shade. I keep them in as small pots as possible and use large outer pots for stability. The pots are small relative to the leaf mass as i don’t want to overpot them. Best of luck and let us know how it goes. It looks like you can still turn it around to good health.

And here are a few more photos from around San Antonio. The last few are from today.

Hardly surprising in this day and age for the UK... but the area of Brixham in Devon has finally updated on Google maps for the first time in a decade or so, and well... CIDP is doing it's thing there, expectantly.. (this palm has never been posted on here before)... A few more in Brixham...

Long time forum reader, first time post. In February 2023, I planted a Silver Bismarck palm and two Silver Saw Palmettos in a new bed in my front yard. This was intended to be the final touch (or so I thought!) for my curb appeal project, following the completion of a Chicago brick-and-mortar walkway. When I planted them, I amended the coastal Northeast Florida sand/soil with compost to give the Bismarck a strong start. Over the past two years, watching the Bismarck grow has been amazing. I’ve been fertilizing it quarterly and watering it during our drier months when rain is scarce. In the fall of 2024, we had two close passes of hurricanes. While nothing major, the storms brought gusts of 60-70mph on two separate occasions. Up until that point, the Bismarck had been rock solid, but after the second storm, I started noticing it "wobbling" at the base even on a normal breezy day. At first, I didn’t think much of it, but as time went on, the wobble persisted and became more noticeable, eventually leaning to one side. I decided to take action this spring. I’ve attached pictures below showing the palm’s current state. To address the wobble, I strapped the Bismarck in hopes it will stabilize and regain its sturdiness. Here are a few questions I have: Is strapping the best course of action? Give it a year or two and then remove the straps. The straps are snug, preventing any wobble, but not overly tight. Could this cause damage to the crown? Has anyone else experienced this issue, and if so, do you have any advice or feedback? Thanks in advance for any insight! Kyle Z St. Augustine, FL Planted in February 2023

I searched and couldn't quite find an existing thread, but let's use this thread to show some love to Sabal. All species and hybrids welcome! Show us what you got. This is a nice Sabal palmetto (best guess) that I rescued from Fresno State's campus several years ago. Their mature trees seed in the lawns and garden beds, and the seedlings get mowed over. I dug this one out and it took well to the transplant.

Sabine bought this today in garden center for 4.50 usd, only described as orchid.

It was a beautiful autumn day wondering around the gardens. I only got to see a little piece of it with much more on display. Looks like a return trip is needed to see more.

Mazat, I won't disagree with Nathan on your Orchid's id, but I will add, providing photos of the foliage and pseudobulb helps others to identify when posting inquiries. Winter on the Bodensee probably is too cold for your orchid but spring, summer and autumn it will probably appreciate the fresh air circulation. If it doesn't rebloom in coming years, try increasing the morning light exposure. I wish you the success with your new orchid.

Currently 26c at 6.00am heading for a warm top of 39c.

These seem like good low desert palms. Does anyone have a lead on where to pick them up? Thanks.

I just needed more time there. But with a car full of palms in the hot Brisbane heat. Not a good thing to be doing with them in a hot car.

Here is how my Queen palm looks following the ultimate low of 21F. Just a bit of tip damage on the most exposed frond. The newest frond opening is quite droopy som I’m not sure if that was from the cold or maybe the wind? The only protection this palm got was from being enshrouded on 4 sides by filifera fronds and a small Crepe Myrtle. I’ve since trimmed back some of those fan palm fronds to give it a bit more breathing room and sunlight. Also shown are my young Washingtonia robustas. Planted May ‘23 from 1 gallon they are growing great. Some bronzing of fronds mostly from the cold two weeks ago, but not set back at all.

Ya I have a couple Ceiba insignis that a few species of Tillandsia are mounted on. That list is a small cross section of all the species I have growing outside. I’m also growing all these species successfully. But this next list is nonexhaustive. Many of them have some canopy but they all experienced the wet cold of Northern California winters and regular dips to the low 30’s without issue. Even my numerous Xerographica don’t have any problems with the temps and wetness. For your location, I’d definitely try anything I have labeled as Xeric. T. edithae T. crocata T. setacea T. crocata ‘Copper Penny’ T. streptocarpa ‘Orchid’ T. velutina T. compressa (Guatemala) (this is one that seems like it would prefer warmer temps but is still growing pretty well) T. exserta (NW Mexico, native to Sonoran Desert, Xeric, can grow 1ft wide, long inflorescence) T. paleacea (Xeric) T. tricolor var. tricolor (Mexico) T. jalisco-monticola (1-2 branches) T. hammeri (Xeric, lithophytic) T. cereicola (soft leaf variety, Xeric) T. gardneri (Xeric) T. kickiae (deep purple semi-pendant bloom, Ecuador 6000ft elevation) T. neglecta green (easy clumper, small) T. straminea ‘thick leaf’ (biggest clone, Peru, 24in inflorescence, very fragrant) T. mereliana (sax. Easy fragrant bloomer, related to diaguitensis) T. loliacea (miniature, semi-xeric, Southern S. America) T. extensa (Sax. large plant 4ft tall, full sun, Peru) T. glabrior (Oaxaca, sax., small) T. propagulifera (Peru, huge, massive inflorescence w/ pups) T. cacticola (Peru, Xeric, lavender bracts) T. purpurea clone b (spicy fragrance, Xeric, tolerates high and low temps, grows in dunes, sax.) T. secunda silver (possibly natural hybrid) T. seleriana T. brachycaulos giant form (12+ inch diameter, Central America, likes more water than gray types) T. ixioides ‘blue albino’ T. schiedeana T. ionantha ‘big green’ T. ionantha T. ‘Houston’ T. fasciculata T. recurvata T. usneoides T. nana

Sorry, I have no access to BGCI. I could only count the botanical gardens described in this topic. Maybe someone on PT does have access to BGCI and could see the source of their data.

Hey Palm brethren and sistren, brutal cold last night in Woodbury,CT I noticed that the thermocube actually cut in and out durimg the friid night,, truning the c9 lights on an off,meaning that the Trachycarpus spear stayed between 35F and 45F, so hopefully that helped the palm, Got down to 6F last night. I hope the foliage is OK but may be fried; A few years ago, the palm came back from complete defoliation and look at it now b well, DrZnaturally

Dr Franco's book PALMS WONT GROW HERE AND OTHER MYTHS mentioned that you need one waterproof layer, i guess i could have sprayed the landscape cloth we use as the first layers with waterprooofing of some sort, but the mummy wrap is always vented even with the plastic, which is 6 ML but vented, it seems to have worked since 2009 you can see it through it's life here http://oak.conncoll.edu:8080/notabletrees/ViewTreeData.jsp?selected=226219 best, DrZnaturally

Indeed. Here they have been in bloom the last two months. The best practice around here is to dig up the tubers for winter storage and replant in early April

This is very good advice! Cycads, and heaps of palms will grow well for many years in containers and can look great if well cared for. I've personally murdered more than my fair share of pointlessly zone pushed plants, many of which I seriously wish I'd kept in pots...

I was under the impression that Plant Delights Nursery was a legitimate source to reference cold hardy information, are you saying they are incorrect? From the description on PDNs website: Sabal x brazoriensis, a rare palm from Brazoria County, Texas, was identified by DNA in 2011 as an ancient hybrid between Sabal palmetto (above ground trunk) and Sabal minor (below ground trunk). Sabal x brazoriensis is the hardiest of the trunked sabal palms and should reach 20' tall with maturity. We have reports from Arkansas that these have sailed through a -15 degree F winter. https://www.plantdelights.com/products/sabal-brazoriensis?srsltid=AfmBOoqY4iFDsGIKVNZJ2XDNvTeb0sDbMTlz66SinH8V_1CvxNCk1A5g

Man I'm in zone 6b, you're not going to want to hear it but the needles and minors are the only ones that will make it in our zone. And honestly they still might need a little protection. Maybe look at some trunking yucca. Yucca rostrata is a beautiful option. I have one trachy in ground and I cover, wrap and heat it. Winters have been trending milder here as well. But,and it's a big but, we usually get one cold snap and it will last for a week or so. It's not just ultimate low ,also duration. I'm not saying don't try, just realize you're probably going to kill a few until you get a protection setup that works for you ( I've killed my share) Good luck

I have 2 Sabal's 1 14ft and 1 12 ft growing on long Island and just with the June through September heat they have grown very well. I'm on the North Shore of Suffolk County on Long Island. I've also has a Chinese fan palm in ground for almost 5 years, 1 Washy, and 2 Trachy's, 1 9ft and the other about 3ft. We really don't see a killing temp for the Sabal outside of Mid Jan-March. But I box my Sabal's early November to be safe since it's not really worth it to wait since they won't grow anyway. So I only have about 13 miles South on you but I use some heat

DECEMBER 2021 UPDATE wrapping the sabal palmetto we call BABSHI, one of Connecticut's notable tress, which has been living outside unheated since 2009 in a warm microclimate in Bridgeport CT. We believe it is one of the few if not only Sabal palmetto palms who has survived this far north growing outside and never brought in for this long. Bridgeport is official zone 7a but with the many microclimate protective factors, IM SURE ITS A ZONE 8 MICROCLIMATE Microclimate factors are the following 1. dark brick building absorbing winter heat and blocking cold northern winter winds 2.location near Long island sound ON 3 SIDES 3.planted chose to building in a frost free zone 1.5 feet from building 4.potential heat escape from building? 5.Mummy wrapping and antifungal spray on crown 6.mounding of soil and much as high up as we can over the sensitive areas of the palm spear im sure these have kept the palm alive and getting big!

A new book about Ponta Delgada's Jardim António Borges includes a photo from 1850 that appears to show some type of Roystonea... The original plant records from the garden list 50 different types of palms. Given that only about a dozen different types now exist, I wonder what else grew there before. Time to go to library to investigate! On the other hand, I just picked a batch of Hyophorbe verschaffeltii seeds (perhaps a little too late in the season) and hope some are viable for a little experiement!

They’re around! There are a surprising number of palms around town, they’re usually hard to see from the street...mostly Sabal minor, needles, and T. fortunei...but there is even a Sabal Mexicana and Sabal palmetto in nice microclimates!

Nice work - hope it does better in its new spot! My brother-in-law is from Wichita where I believe you posted pics of Sabal minor so I'll have to let him know there are at least 2 species of palms in the ground in Kansas!

They move pretty quick for a Sabal! hopefully it’ll be happy there! Sadly I accidentally killed my Mexicana in spring of 2019 trying to move it...it was over 7’ tall too:( I replaced it with a Sabal brazoriensis, however:)

Agree w/Allen, Great find.. Curious which side of town you found it. ( Know most of Lawrence like the back of my hand ) .

I'm in a high end zone 6b and Sabal minor, rhapidophyllum, Sabal louisiana and brazoriensis seem to be the best bet around here. Sabal Birmingham is somewhat hard to find but is an incredibly hardy S. Palmetto cultivar if you want a trunking palm, but who doesn't?

Sabal Minor and Needle palm are the only 2 you won't have to protect for sure. Other sabals maybe like Louisiana and Birmingham and Brazoria may do fine. Palms that you may need to protect Trachycarpus Fortunei