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Maybe technically, but it’s really not the cold that does damage to roots generally, it’s the combination of cold and wet that promotes rot. Free draining mixes are very important in temperate climates I’ve found. For what it’s worth I kept 5 of my 11 sprouted seeds I mentioned earlier in this thread after gifting a few. All planted in the ground but now I’ve dug one to donate to the Melbourne Botajic Gardens soon. They’ve been slow but reliable and trouble free growers with some variability in colour and growth rate. They are now around 7.5 years from germination.

All these responses are so helpful, Im grateful for the help. I knew they would get tall, I had no idea they were going to have such large trunks. Those really are massive.....I am looking around my yard to see where else they might thrive. Once I have done that, then I can consider what kind of Palm to put there in the front of the house. I would like a nice palm or 2 there for a pretty focal point in between the shudders, but ...now I know to find a much smaller breed. Im learning so much already.

Welcome! The trunk on Ravenea Rivularis get quite large , but I wouldn’t worry about it now that they are planted. Do not be surprised if the fronds burn a bit for the first several months , they are acclimating to their new home . These are water lovers and need a good watering regularly. They grow along waterways sometimes in habitat. The one on the left will soon get very close to the scalloped edging you have so you may want to move that out. I would put more wood chips where the soil is showing . All in all , good job and happy growing with those. Harry ‘This is one I have growing up through the fronds of a Caryota Obtusa. The trunk is tapered more than most palms . This one has a very large base . It will adapt to its surroundings . The two you have may become almost fused at the base eventually. Two Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana ( King Palms ) that were planted together as juveniles. Not a problem .

A big palm in the understory, stretching towards the light. They are very tolerant of the shade, and from the pictures I have seen in this forum shade and sun grown are both totally different in looks. This one is around 27years old and it’s hit the teenage days about to burst into growth. Very tough palm that should be more planted about.

@cgarlick welcome to Palmtalk! I had a triple and a single Foxtail before the freeze, but 22.5F likely killed all 4 of mine. One looks like it is trying to push a new frond, so I suppose it has a chance. Anything below 25F is likely to kill a Foxtail, even a mature one. Any palm that is visibly "weeping" near the crown probably has a severe crown infection. Any palm where the main trunk or upper crownshaft changed from round to irregularly sunken in probably has an internal trunk rot. When those two symptoms become visible the palm is already dead. So like in the first photo that left trunk is definitely dead.

@danilee welcome to Palmtalk! I started here with a few Bottle and Majesty palms around 8 years ago. My Majesties were planted in AM sun and PM shade, and did fine there. I made the mistake of moving them into a very sunny spot and they withered away. If you want to move them, I'd suggest an AM sun / PM shade spot. If they've been in the ground for a couple of months then the rootball is probably still 3 gallon pot shaped. *Most likely* you could scoop them out of the ground and plant elsewhere without messing up the roots too much. If you want a small palm there are a few easy choices. Bottle and Spindle palms are cold hardy if South of the Orlando-Tampa I4 line. North of there (like me) they are occasionally burnt to a crisp and sometimes die. Pygmy Dates are a couple of degrees tougher and more likely to bounce back after a bad freeze. Both are full sun capable in FL. There are hundreds of species, but not a large number that are small (say under 10ft crown diameter), full sun in FL, and cold hardy to North of I4. Do you have a particular size or shape in mind?

Hi everyone To provide a deeper context to my previous posts about the Stachen Microclimate, I have compiled a comprehensive global comparison. This data covers the period from 2014 to 2025 and pits my 425m (1,394 ft) enclave against some of the most famous palm-growing regions and maritime hubs in the Northern Hemisphere. Scientific Integrity: To ensure the highest accuracy, I have applied a conservative -0.3K safety adjustment to my annual means. This accounts for potential "heat spikes" in my solar-ventilated Bresser station during late afternoon periods when the solar fan might deactivate while the sun is still low. List (2014–2025): Location Elevation Annual Mean Absolute Minimum Santa Barbara (USA) 4 m 15.5 °C -1.0 °C Washington D.C. (USA) 5 m 15.4 °C -14.0 °C Bologna (IT) 37 m 15.0 °C -8.0 °C Venice Lido (IT) 4 m 14.7 °C -7.0 °C Verona (IT) 68 m 14.5 °C -10.0 °C Milan Malpensa (IT) 234 m 13.8 °C -11.0 °C Lyon (FR) 201 m 13.8 °C -10.0 °C Lugano (CH) 273 m 13.7 °C -6.0 °C Magadino (CH) 203 m 12.6 °C -9.0 °C STACHEN (CH) 425 m 12.5 °C* -11.0 °C Seattle (USA) 6 m 12.2 °C -10.0 °C London Heathrow (UK) 25 m 12.1 °C -7.0 °C Brest (FR) 99 m 12.1 °C -7.0 °C Kehelland (Cornwall) 87 m 11.6 °C -5.1 °C Constance (GER) 428 m 11.0 °C -11.1 °C *Adjusted by -0.3K safety margin. Key Observations: Elevation Efficiency: Despite being located 400m+ higher than London, Seattle, or Brest, Stachen outperforms them in annual mean temperature. This highlights the power of our local "Heat-Engine" and the Cfa (Humid Subtropical) characteristics. The "Milan Pattern": Our absolute minimum of -11.0 °C is identical to Milan-Malpensa. We share the same winter resilience and summer heat-sum as the northern Po Valley, but at nearly double the elevation. Regional Anomaly: The 1.5°C gap between Stachen and the regional reference in Constance (same elevation) confirms that our "Solar-Trap" setup and hedge-protection are creating a unique climatic island. Whether you are growing Trachycarpus, Jubaea, or even testing Strelitzia (which successfully overwintered here!), these numbers show that microclimate is often more decisive than latitude. Best regards Mazat

Agree with This... For reference, here's a couple shots of a smaller specimen back in my old neighborhood in CA. Tough to tell in the shot, but, width of the crown is roughly 12ft across. ..and this is still a baby. Now think about the two you have, and where you currently have them planted.. If you do a rando " Majesty Palm " search here on the forum, you'll find several threads w/ shots of just how big they can get, which will give you an idea of just how much space you'd want to give them. While it's true that palm roots aren't like tree roots ..in the sense that they typically don't destroy hard surfaces like a concrete walkway ..or the foundation of a house, palm species with a good - sized trunk width, like a Majesty, probably isn't the best option for so close to a home.. Depending on what part of FL you're in, there are other, slimmer palm options that would fit in that space better than these. For them?.. look over the total space of your property while imagining them larger / more mature.. That will help you decide where they will fit better compared to where you have them now. While they're definitely water and nutrient hogs < ..Love LOTS of K < = Potassium, > they are tough and will take some cold, ...if you're located in a colder part of the state.. Fast growing, so you won't have to wait as long as you might have to w/ some other palms to see them put on some size. Since you've only had them in the ground a couple months or so, they should transplant fairly easily since they're just starting to add on new root growth ..Do have their permanent homes already dug and ready to go ....before you move 'em. Keep them wet, and ..if you want to give them anything " fertilizer " after moving, you can give something easy .. like a compost tea / diluted Molasses ( 1 tbsp. to a gallon of water, 1x a month, for now ). ..It won't be until -at least- the fall before you'd even consider applying a stronger, palm special fertilizer. Hope this helps..

A nice variegated rhapis planted beside the good old water tank!

A troop of Licuala grandis at Four Arts:

Yes , as @aztropic says , the Wodyetia let you know when they are not happy and usually never fully recover . Some palms can rebound very well but these are not forgiving , in my experience. The narrowing trunk near the crown is usually followed by smaller than usual fronds ….death sign. A healthy one is robust all the way up to the crown , only slightly tapering. Harry

Had this one in the ground for 26 years. And it seems to have enjoyed growing in the garden. I do know with the dead leaves not to mulch them in the garden they get seperated for the big compost heap. Too many times when planting plants in that area you get the needle sharp spines in the hands. One glorious palm not that often seen in my area!

It's pretty common for palms to "eat" the oldest fronds shortly after transplant. Just cut them off when they are totally dried out and crispy.

After chugging along since 2018, one of my Torallyi kicked the bucket over the winter/spring this year in Northern California. A very unremarkable 9B winter - not very cold, some nice periods of rain, and everything else in the yard came through nicely, including two other Torallyi. Marked the dried out/bleached out center spear two months ago and it hadn't moved a bit. Have always stressed about my Torallyi randomly dying a la DOOMSDAVE's massive Torallyi. Surprise, it died. Had it removed today and wanted to ask the collective - Put down a JxS into the hole immediately? Or give it some time? No real signs of disease that I could see - tree guy didn't have any ideas either. He did say that whatever I planted there probably wouldn't grow all that well - being boxed in by the driveway/fence/old roots. -E

I'd plant the JxS immediately if you have one available. Perfect time of year to get one permanently established. Very hardy, trouble free cross, with an upright growth habit. I have 2 growing like weeds in Arizona. 🌴 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Three of the best for any palm garden, a must have trio. Oraniopsis appendiculata archontophoenix purpurea lacospadix Australis clumping form

I have came to that conclusion here too. Stunning palms but I'd rather use the space for something else.

Well well well.

Yep... It may be a beautiful tree in a park, away from any hardscape, walls, plumbing, plants or grass, but otherwise I'd stay away from them... Here is that same little tree now.. Ahh-gree 1,000% For the love of ...anything... NEVER plant a Bl**pin' Pepper tree.. " CA. " ...or it's really awful Brazilian cousin. Horrible, horrible trees ...like most Eucalyptus, Mastic, and African Sumac. Carrotwood is another " avoid at all costs " trash tree.

Where we are in LWR, there is little to no damage I have noticed around town to anything there's a 20+ foot coconut on 60 near I75 that is untouched. Goes for Fox tails, Adonidias, Clusia Rosea, Sea Grape, etc.....

All dead. I gave up on foxtails because they have major issues with cold and long term cool weather. You are not alone; many people are going to lose palms after this past winter - I already have and expect to lose more. Hurricane Ian is still killing my palms nearly 4 years after it roared through.

They are too close together and both are too close to your house. Majesties get quite large. They are also water and fertilizer hogs. Water but don't fertilize for the next 2-3 months. Before you plant be sure to do some research with a thought for future growth before you place them in your yard. Move them now before they settle in then figure on leaving them in place. Many, if not most, palms respond very poorly to transplanting. Also, what part of FL do you live in? Very large State with multiple habitats and big differences between Miami and Pensacola. We can't advise you properly if you don't tell us what we need to know to help you.

This subtopic is the correct place for the question. As kinsyjr mentioned, please add photos when you have them Two things w.r.t. the palms: 1. Most are grown semi-shade in nurseries. Try to shade them in the hottest time of day. 2. Be generous with water as the warm season has started.

I’ve sourced perfectly sized limestone grit from a quarry. For poor ventilation and insufficient natural light, I’ll use grow lights and oscillating fans to compensate. I’ll also add more limestone amendments to the soil to fix the moisture management issues.

Thank you so much!@sonoranfans I’ve noticed many potted Cuban palms start turning yellow and hate standing water when their soil lacks limestone additives. Around 70% of Cuba’s geology is high‑calcium limestone bedrock. I’ll keep troubleshooting these indoor potting issues until I get it right—even if there are setbacks. I’ve already succeeded with two wax palm varieties: Copernicia baileyana and Copernicia hospita. Now the next, higher challenge for me is cultivating Copernicia fallaensis.

Thanks aztropic! I’m going to try keeping them in their original pots and nurse them along. I’ve successfully acclimated a Bismarck palm before and even managed to dwarf its leaves, so that gives me a lot of confidence.

Caught this very large Sausage tree at Four Arts. No sausage yet but the strings are growing from the tree:

Im excited about the potencial of this hybrid given the parentage but they be SLOOOOOW!

Lehmannii thowing something like 25 leaves🤔I lost count lol🤣

Pure strain Arenarius throwing a nice one.

San Antonio Botanical Garden This last one is Encephalartos inopinus not heenanii

Would love to hear everyone’s damage data so far. Really enjoyed Eric’s similar post for 2009-2010 freeze, so I hope to start another similar discussion for this past 2025 freeze. My location: Windermere. - Mature foxtails - no protection. Complete defoliation. All recovering, pushing green. No bleeding trunks. - Green Malayan dwarf - covered trunk and central spear with frost cloth, no heat. Complete defoliation. Recovering, two green fronds now. - Two double P elegans - no protection. Against house. 1 double trying to recover. 1 killed. - Triple christmas - covered with light cloth and tarp. No heat. Mild burn. Recovering well. - Bottle - wrapped with frost cloth, no heat. Complete defoliation. Recovering well with 2 new fronds now. - 3 royals R regia - no protection. Complete defoliation. Recovering well, 1-2 new fronds each currently.

https://seatemperature.info/darwin-water-temperature.html Current ocean temperature in Darwin Water temperature in Darwin today is 29.1°C. Based on our historical data over a period of ten years, the warmest water in this day in Darwin was recorded in 2022 and was 31°C, and the coldest was recorded in 2012 at 28.8°C. Sea water temperature in Darwin is expected to rise to 29.5°C in the next 10 days. May average water temperature in Darwin is 29.2°C, the minimum temperature is 26.3°C, and the maximum is 31°C.

Not the first one observed this year, ..but the brightest so far.. ChzA ( Circumhorizontal Arc ) Tough to see but flaring up under and to the far left of the 22deg Halo. Another flare up attempt. " Green Flash " flareup.. Mature phase w/ Full spectrum coloration. Fainter event about a week ago, ..but present if you look closely enough.. Quick hitter as a batch of Cirrus w/ the right crystal orientation passes through..

A couple of nice varieties of palms worthy of any collection! dypsis manajarensis iguanura bicornis took me a while to work out how to grow iguanura palms, but you can see I have learned how to grow them, with healthy leaves. Areca vestria dypsis saintamarieButia purperesis. I know you like them, might have to send this one down to sunny Melbourne. @tim_brissy_13

Throwing in this London Dactylifera as being the furthest north / furthest from the equator Dactylifera in the world at 51.4N latitude. It has been in situ there in Wimbledon for at least 6-7 years now and was planted as a tiny seedling. I doubt it has ever been protected there and it is actively growing quite considerably. Looks like it was planted as a small little palm in 2018 or 2019... It grew considerably within a year or so by 2020... Most recent shot about 10 months ago... Not surprised to see a dacty surviving and growing in London given all the CIDP's and also given that one or two have been posted in Paris at 48.5N latitude. However this is basically 3 degrees of latitude further north than any in Paris. I wouldn't be surprised if there are even further north ones in parts of London or the east coast of England where it is quite dry.

Visited the motherland this week. The smaller fruiting coconut is from a ditch that was collected by a lady in homestead Fl 5 years ago . receives no love from the owner . second the largest coconut that has managed to evade the 2021 Texas palm massacre lol over on port Isabel if anyone wants the exact address message me . across the same street I found a yard with 3-4 young cocos that looked really great the lady who lives there mentioned her husband collected all the cocos that washed ashore and they sprouted! other pics are of various parts of the valley for whatever reason palm talk won’t let me insert individual Info per pick so if yall have questions I’ll answer what I can haha . #Zone10A-BTexas IMG_9409.mov

B purpurescens Richard? I actually got 2 of my own to sprout after a couple of years sowing. Grateful to have them - thinking one for me and one for the botanic gardens once I grow them up.

Well, the sellers response about my weird Ensete is it's still growing and pushing leaves, and I'm like, yeah, so was the last one until it just died. So i was shocked to see these at the local "cash saver" grocery store/Ace Hardware. Hopefully I end up keeping both alive, because the plan has always been chop and prop.

Palm Plantation is terrible. I’ve purchased palms from probably 40 different people and companies all over SoCal for years. I find their prices waaaay too high. Like 2-3 times as high as I’ve seen other places. Reselling cycads from a very well known cycad dealer for 3X what I or anybody else can get it for. Tag still in the pot so it’s no surprise where it came from. I had a terrible experience in two separate occasions and encourage anyone to find another place to shop. Don’t waste your time or money. I can go into it in detail if needed just DM me. -dale

Posting a few photos of my Parajubaea torallyi. I planted this palm about 15 years ago from a 5-gallon pot. It currently has about six feet of clean trunk and it’s about 25+ feet tall. This time of year, I tug on the old leaf sheaths to see if any of them are ready to come off. If they're ready, they pull off easily. However, if they aren't, no amount of pulling will remove them. It’s not unusual to find Arboreal Salamanders (Aneides lugubris) under the old leaf sheaths as shown in the photo below. I'm in the San Francisco bay area.

Nice combo indeed! I planted lime/yellow dracanea near my purpurea to bring out the yellow color. The purple is obvious... but there's a lot of yellow too (including on the lower side of the fronds), which is fun to highlight.

Areca vestiaria “Orange” do so well in SE Queensland.

Drop dead gorgeous Bentinckia condapanna.

Cyphophoenix elegans with a straighter leaf, as opposed to the more curved form. Interestingly, the former seems to grow a lot faster than the latter. Some suggest it could be a hybrid.

Phil clearly knew what he was doing when planting Archontophoenix pupurea with “Blonde” Archontophoenix alexandrae. Pretty sweet contrast.

Wonderful example of Tahina spectabilis.

Homo sapiens var. Austrailiensis is another contender in this race to eschew sophistication.