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Maybe technically, but it’s really not the cold that does damage to roots generally, it’s the combination of cold and wet that promotes rot. Free draining mixes are very important in temperate climates I’ve found. For what it’s worth I kept 5 of my 11 sprouted seeds I mentioned earlier in this thread after gifting a few. All planted in the ground but now I’ve dug one to donate to the Melbourne Botajic Gardens soon. They’ve been slow but reliable and trouble free growers with some variability in colour and growth rate. They are now around 7.5 years from germination.

Had this one in the ground for 26 years. And it seems to have enjoyed growing in the garden. I do know with the dead leaves not to mulch them in the garden they get seperated for the big compost heap. Too many times when planting plants in that area you get the needle sharp spines in the hands. One glorious palm not that often seen in my area!

My single-trunked 9 ft (2.7 m) tall Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) lutescens.

A nice Chambeyronia putting on a show at 6.30 on a foggy morning!

A troop of Licuala grandis at Four Arts:

The hookeri are flowering well this season. No seeds so far over the last 3 seasons from when they started to flower. Iam in no hurry for any seeds of them. One day they will set seeds and I will most likely give them away.

After chugging along since 2018, one of my Torallyi kicked the bucket over the winter/spring this year in Northern California. A very unremarkable 9B winter - not very cold, some nice periods of rain, and everything else in the yard came through nicely, including two other Torallyi. Marked the dried out/bleached out center spear two months ago and it hadn't moved a bit. Have always stressed about my Torallyi randomly dying a la DOOMSDAVE's massive Torallyi. Surprise, it died. Had it removed today and wanted to ask the collective - Put down a JxS into the hole immediately? Or give it some time? No real signs of disease that I could see - tree guy didn't have any ideas either. He did say that whatever I planted there probably wouldn't grow all that well - being boxed in by the driveway/fence/old roots. -E

Losing a palm is never fun , after watching them grow . It does leave a spot for a replacement though. Harry

Hopefully I can send them around the globe!

As seedlings look you can tell these ones are special. The delarbria were gifted seeds and the diospyros were imported seeds. They will all get planted in and around my garden. With the delarbria going into the understory.

Chamaedorea genoformis and chamaedorea metallica tucked away in the understory!

I do believe it’s a troop of monkeys and a stand of palms! 🌱

A big palm in the understory, stretching towards the light. They are very tolerant of the shade, and from the pictures I have seen in this forum shade and sun grown are both totally different in looks. This one is around 27years old and it’s hit the teenage days about to burst into growth. Very tough palm that should be more planted about.

All these responses are so helpful, Im grateful for the help. I knew they would get tall, I had no idea they were going to have such large trunks. Those really are massive.....I am looking around my yard to see where else they might thrive. Once I have done that, then I can consider what kind of Palm to put there in the front of the house. I would like a nice palm or 2 there for a pretty focal point in between the shudders, but ...now I know to find a much smaller breed. Im learning so much already.

A nice variegated rhapis planted beside the good old water tank!

Welcome! The trunk on Ravenea Rivularis get quite large , but I wouldn’t worry about it now that they are planted. Do not be surprised if the fronds burn a bit for the first several months , they are acclimating to their new home . These are water lovers and need a good watering regularly. They grow along waterways sometimes in habitat. The one on the left will soon get very close to the scalloped edging you have so you may want to move that out. I would put more wood chips where the soil is showing . All in all , good job and happy growing with those. Harry ‘This is one I have growing up through the fronds of a Caryota Obtusa. The trunk is tapered more than most palms . This one has a very large base . It will adapt to its surroundings . The two you have may become almost fused at the base eventually. Two Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana ( King Palms ) that were planted together as juveniles. Not a problem .

Her are mine on an East facing wall about 15 miles inland in SOC/NLA County.... Biggest problem near a pool is the many dropping seeds... If your not too close to the pool that may not be a problem... Mine may have out grown your screening needs, but you could always remove the larger palms and just keep the smaller ones... Mine just keep putting out new seedlings because of dropped seeds... Just don't put in a pepper tree like my neighbor did 5-6 years ago, for privacy... He put it about 1' away from the corner of 4 adjacent neighbor... That tree is huge now and will someday take out all 4 block walls... It makes a mess on my and 1 other neighbors patio and pools, and shades the other neighbors veggie garden... I keep the limbs trimmed back that overhang my yard, but the other neighbors don't... It's now getting too big for me to trim any farther.. Hopefully Edison will come out and remove it like they did my foxtail... Butch

The original planting of Cycas thouarsii were 7 gallon pots in the first photo you have and the second photo was about 8 years later. The solution is start with a bigger plant than the 7 gallon size I started with. If you plant Podocarpus, plan on having to trim them frequently and having leaf drop in your pool. People in my neighborhood have used different Podocarpus species as hedges and it is a constant battle to keep them in the space they want them. Anything that you plant that fills the need fast will require continual maintenance unless you start with something big that doesn't grow fast. The Encephalartos I used are large growing species, so can get tall pretty darn fast. With that genus it is a matter of selecting the right species and even then don't expect to start with a tiny planting. I have three plantings of Chrysalidocarpus lutescens in my gardens and even with a "fast growing" clumping palm, it takes a few years before they were over the wall height to do any screening. The first one I planted in Carlsbad now gives zero screening because all the trunks are significantly above the wall after 15 years.. One was planted as a freebie 1 gallon I got at a Palm Society meeting, and the biggest was a 15 gallon pot (not the one in Carlsbad). Only you can assess your ultimate goal, be it plants that make it difficult to see into your yard but if someone really wants to see between plants or leaves, they will still see inside or do you want blackout obscuring your backyard. If you really want blackout, go with the Podocarpus but be prepared to trim it continually to keep it from getting out of control.

How bout a small ‘BUMP’. So, how are all of the posted specimens doing? Thriving I hope. Here is a photos I took yesterday of a grouping grown from seed back in 2012. The tall palm in the center surrounded by B. condapanna is B. nicobarica. Tim

Cool to see commercial property owners using palms other than syargus, phoenix etc. Have any of you carried your hobby into properties other than your home? Here’s my attempt at identifying these near me in the San Gabriel foothills jubaeopsis caffra bismarckia/ roystoneas ravenala madagascariensis Struggling dypsis sp? With caryota mitis in background some sort of cycas?

Haery, this is an excellent palm tree. It's an exotic and very important palm tree.

Woooohoooo, signs of life from one of my Beccarriophoenix alfredii that took 23f unprotected!!!

Good looking baby palms there, nice color on those hospitas! You are correct these palms prefer a slightly alkaline soil and dolomite does the trick. Dolomite will add Mg, Ca to the soil slowly, the larger the rock the slower the dissolution into the soil. I do this with all my cubans in my sandy soil. I also add langbeinite for K, Mg micros. The cuban copernicias are all susceptible to nutrient deficiency and in sandy soil (low cation exchange) they will struggle more. The dolomite will stabilize these nutrients over time. My large Fallaensis was delivered with about 1000lb of limestone it was planted in. It was a huge rootball of limestone rock. Limestone rock is the common in the soil in the miami/homestead Fl area.

I have a couple of seeds in pots waiting to sprout🤞. Such a lovely palm . The lighter coloring of the crownshaft and , by what I can see of the ones around here , more robust than Macrocarpa. Harry

You'll achieve it with everyone's help. The spirit of a palm tree is to give life. And you have that great spirit, Richard. Or don't you know that seeing a palm tree sprout is life? And seeing the joy of a young person and an old person at the same time? Of course it's life. It's life bringing joy to life.

You could use it on outdoor containers, but not good for indoors. If you do use it then add perlite to it for more air and drainage. But I would suggest you just add it to the new mulch you wish to use!

Those two Chambeyronias are very interesting, my friend. You have a truly exotic treasure. Congratulations! Your seeds will be the next seeds of life, from which thousands and hundreds of palm trees will emerge over many generations.

If you see em get em. They would grow there the Oraniopsis is cool tolerant and the lacospadix is just as cool tolerant. Oraniopsis is slow so most likely a snail in your climate! Richard

Argh cold a wet, the palm growers enemy!

@cgarlick welcome to Palmtalk! I had a triple and a single Foxtail before the freeze, but 22.5F likely killed all 4 of mine. One looks like it is trying to push a new frond, so I suppose it has a chance. Anything below 25F is likely to kill a Foxtail, even a mature one. Any palm that is visibly "weeping" near the crown probably has a severe crown infection. Any palm where the main trunk or upper crownshaft changed from round to irregularly sunken in probably has an internal trunk rot. When those two symptoms become visible the palm is already dead. So like in the first photo that left trunk is definitely dead.

Thanks, @Tracy. We had a record-cold, terrible winter this time, temperatures dropping to -22C (-8F), and we had freezing nights until the middle of April. Terrible. In the past I did nothing and it looked better, but the previous winters were warmer (although not much warmer). The boxes are completely enclosed. Here's a Pindo palm before closing it: I use rigid foam insulation panels + heat cables + a lot of mulch to help keep the roots warm. This year, however, I had a fire due to a short circuit or overheating (perhaps a cable burned itself where the different parts of the cable touched each other; or perhaps the heating cable overheated mulch started a fire). So I lost my European palm and damaged the Windmill palm I don't know the cause of the fire and I'll create a post later to discuss the possible causes of this and how to prevent this in the future. The boxes get fully closed with occasional opening of a "small window" at the back of the box for changing air. Inside the boxes are temperature monitors and I can see the temperature on the display inside the house. Besides the fire :), I'm very happy with the results, that all palm trees survived every winter and some are even looking great. I did not know if they'd survive -22C (-8F) outside, but they did!

It's pretty common for palms to "eat" the oldest fronds shortly after transplant. Just cut them off when they are totally dried out and crispy.

@danilee welcome to Palmtalk! I started here with a few Bottle and Majesty palms around 8 years ago. My Majesties were planted in AM sun and PM shade, and did fine there. I made the mistake of moving them into a very sunny spot and they withered away. If you want to move them, I'd suggest an AM sun / PM shade spot. If they've been in the ground for a couple of months then the rootball is probably still 3 gallon pot shaped. *Most likely* you could scoop them out of the ground and plant elsewhere without messing up the roots too much. If you want a small palm there are a few easy choices. Bottle and Spindle palms are cold hardy if South of the Orlando-Tampa I4 line. North of there (like me) they are occasionally burnt to a crisp and sometimes die. Pygmy Dates are a couple of degrees tougher and more likely to bounce back after a bad freeze. Both are full sun capable in FL. There are hundreds of species, but not a large number that are small (say under 10ft crown diameter), full sun in FL, and cold hardy to North of I4. Do you have a particular size or shape in mind?

I'd plant the JxS immediately if you have one available. Perfect time of year to get one permanently established. Very hardy, trouble free cross, with an upright growth habit. I have 2 growing like weeds in Arizona. 🌴 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Hi everyone To provide a deeper context to my previous posts about the Stachen Microclimate, I have compiled a comprehensive global comparison. This data covers the period from 2014 to 2025 and pits my 425m (1,394 ft) enclave against some of the most famous palm-growing regions and maritime hubs in the Northern Hemisphere. Scientific Integrity: To ensure the highest accuracy, I have applied a conservative -0.3K safety adjustment to my annual means. This accounts for potential "heat spikes" in my solar-ventilated Bresser station during late afternoon periods when the solar fan might deactivate while the sun is still low. List (2014–2025): Location Elevation Annual Mean Absolute Minimum Santa Barbara (USA) 4 m 15.5 °C -1.0 °C Washington D.C. (USA) 5 m 15.4 °C -14.0 °C Bologna (IT) 37 m 15.0 °C -8.0 °C Venice Lido (IT) 4 m 14.7 °C -7.0 °C Verona (IT) 68 m 14.5 °C -10.0 °C Milan Malpensa (IT) 234 m 13.8 °C -11.0 °C Lyon (FR) 201 m 13.8 °C -10.0 °C Lugano (CH) 273 m 13.7 °C -6.0 °C Magadino (CH) 203 m 12.6 °C -9.0 °C STACHEN (CH) 425 m 12.5 °C* -11.0 °C Seattle (USA) 6 m 12.2 °C -10.0 °C London Heathrow (UK) 25 m 12.1 °C -7.0 °C Brest (FR) 99 m 12.1 °C -7.0 °C Kehelland (Cornwall) 87 m 11.6 °C -5.1 °C Constance (GER) 428 m 11.0 °C -11.1 °C *Adjusted by -0.3K safety margin. Key Observations: Elevation Efficiency: Despite being located 400m+ higher than London, Seattle, or Brest, Stachen outperforms them in annual mean temperature. This highlights the power of our local "Heat-Engine" and the Cfa (Humid Subtropical) characteristics. The "Milan Pattern": Our absolute minimum of -11.0 °C is identical to Milan-Malpensa. We share the same winter resilience and summer heat-sum as the northern Po Valley, but at nearly double the elevation. Regional Anomaly: The 1.5°C gap between Stachen and the regional reference in Constance (same elevation) confirms that our "Solar-Trap" setup and hedge-protection are creating a unique climatic island. Whether you are growing Trachycarpus, Jubaea, or even testing Strelitzia (which successfully overwintered here!), these numbers show that microclimate is often more decisive than latitude. Best regards Mazat

Well …. I have one of those , a Pupurea . I guess the other two will remain must have want list! That is if they would even grow here. Some nice ones there , and the list grows😎🌴. Harry

Agree with This... For reference, here's a couple shots of a smaller specimen back in my old neighborhood in CA. Tough to tell in the shot, but, width of the crown is roughly 12ft across. ..and this is still a baby. Now think about the two you have, and where you currently have them planted.. If you do a rando " Majesty Palm " search here on the forum, you'll find several threads w/ shots of just how big they can get, which will give you an idea of just how much space you'd want to give them. While it's true that palm roots aren't like tree roots ..in the sense that they typically don't destroy hard surfaces like a concrete walkway ..or the foundation of a house, palm species with a good - sized trunk width, like a Majesty, probably isn't the best option for so close to a home.. Depending on what part of FL you're in, there are other, slimmer palm options that would fit in that space better than these. For them?.. look over the total space of your property while imagining them larger / more mature.. That will help you decide where they will fit better compared to where you have them now. While they're definitely water and nutrient hogs < ..Love LOTS of K < = Potassium, > they are tough and will take some cold, ...if you're located in a colder part of the state.. Fast growing, so you won't have to wait as long as you might have to w/ some other palms to see them put on some size. Since you've only had them in the ground a couple months or so, they should transplant fairly easily since they're just starting to add on new root growth ..Do have their permanent homes already dug and ready to go ....before you move 'em. Keep them wet, and ..if you want to give them anything " fertilizer " after moving, you can give something easy .. like a compost tea / diluted Molasses ( 1 tbsp. to a gallon of water, 1x a month, for now ). ..It won't be until -at least- the fall before you'd even consider applying a stronger, palm special fertilizer. Hope this helps..

Yep... It may be a beautiful tree in a park, away from any hardscape, walls, plumbing, plants or grass, but otherwise I'd stay away from them... Here is that same little tree now.. Ahh-gree 1,000% For the love of ...anything... NEVER plant a Bl**pin' Pepper tree.. " CA. " ...or it's really awful Brazilian cousin. Horrible, horrible trees ...like most Eucalyptus, Mastic, and African Sumac. Carrotwood is another " avoid at all costs " trash tree.

Yep... It may be a beautiful tree in a park, away from any hardscape, walls, plumbing, plants or grass, but otherwise I'd stay away from them... Here is that same little tree now.. Butch

Yes , as @aztropic says , the Wodyetia let you know when they are not happy and usually never fully recover . Some palms can rebound very well but these are not forgiving , in my experience. The narrowing trunk near the crown is usually followed by smaller than usual fronds ….death sign. A healthy one is robust all the way up to the crown , only slightly tapering. Harry

A couple of good collecter palmscocothrinax eckmanii dypsis proceralicuala fordiana

Yes, I have five of them in the ground...Three of what I'm fairly sure are Jamaican/Atlantic Talls; and two of what I purchased as Red Spicata, in both cases from mail-order nurseries in Miami. They do "fine" here (some other types, however, have collapsed in winter). "Fine" meaning if you find just the right amount of morning sun and dappled shade, in an east- or south-facing area under good canopy, they put out nice leaves...problems being at least when young, they only produce about three leaves per year under those conditions. Really not enough to have a great plant, I feel that five is the absolute minimum for a healthy specimen...though I suspect leaf-production will improve over time. Also some issues with blanching if the sun hits the leaves during the low-sun season, again, careful siting required! There are mature palms here in the desert, most of them now cut down by unwary home-buyers who didn't know or care what they had. The remaining one in La Quinta is impressive in size but the crown can look dry and kind of ratty at certain times of year, and old leaf-bases hold on since there's little rain or humidity to tease them off naturally. Nice to have it here, nonetheless! There are beautiful specimens growing a couple hundred miles southeast of here at Golfo de Santa Clara, but since it's on the Gulf it enjoys humidity and slightly milder highs in summer. The crazy case was an absolutely gorgeous one growing outside of the desert, in Corona of all places, it was beautiful, but when sold, the new owner chopped it down. There are plenty of threads on all of this, if you search, elsewhere on this forum. This topic has been drilled to death here...but ultimately I look at it as a somewhat marginal but fun thing to have around, but I keep it in the "semi-temporary" category. If they start trunking and looking great, so much the better, but I don't necessarily expect it.

San Antonio Botanical Garden This last one is Encephalartos inopinus not heenanii

6 year in ground , Sabal palmetto “Lisa” is putting out 6 bloom spikes in Dallas zone 8 A nearby, 10 year in ground Lisa has never bloomed.

Recovery has been good so far, this fiji dwarf is on its way back with its second frond opening up with a 3rd spear behind it and some pics of what it previously looked like before this freeze.