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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/22/2026 in Posts
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I would think probably because they are so slow not that I think that is a bad thing!!! The first picture is the first palms that I planted in my new house and gave me the palm big the second picture is of some Washingtonian palms I planted about 5 years later all planted from basically 5 gal!! In a residential area who would want a telephone pole looks nice for the neighbors or a good way to find your house!!!3 points
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Good question... Both genus are comprised of very tough palms that are drought tolerant, light freeze resistant, and are happy to grow in western USA's alkaline soils. Biggest issue I see is their generally slow rate of growth under dry air and desert conditions. That being said, I've grown out several species of Coccothrinax and other Caribbean native palms from seed, but it generally takes me 7-10 years just to produce a 'west coast' 5 gallon plant for sale. Here's a few examples in order left to right. Coccothrinax argentata,Coccothrinax miraguama, Coccothrinax borhidiana, and a Pseudophoenix sargentii thrown in for good measure. 😄 aztropic Mesa, Arizona3 points
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Exactly, robustas are good skyline palms. If you’re a land developer and you plant rows of robustas, in 20 years you’ll have a beautiful skyline with 40-50 ft palms. But that does very little for the personal garden. Its more of a macro aesthetic for the overall area.1 point
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This Lepidozamia peroffskyana male is coning again. Last year it skipped flushing and pushed 2 cones too. It is ironic that when cycads are small, welcome forward to that first cone on a plant. At this point I would prefer a flush over another pair of cones on this particular plant. I have a Ceratozamia that pushed back to back cones and she is just showing a flush. Perhaps it read my mind that coning without flushing could lead to liquidation?1 point
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If I were doing it on one of mine, maybe no more than half a handful. Asmall amount is unlikely to cause any burn problems. If you want to be extra safe, Osmocote or fish emulsion are more burn-proof. I have a big bag of Magnesium Sulfate granular. I add that to Phoenix, B. Alfredii, and Copernicia at least once a year. Adding some in about a month may help with yellowing. Adding some now could be a burn risk.1 point
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That's an awfully thin leaf for a Butiagrus cross. Is the other one next to it one of mine?1 point
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You're overthinking it... The palm looks perfectly fine and has no disease. In the real world, you are going to see occasional brown spots,dried leaf tips, bug chews, wind damage, oldest fronds yellow, etc. Absolutely perfect specimens are rare, are usually greenhouse grown, and will incur the minor imperfections you note if placed outside. Rainstorms can never over water it. 🤷♂️ aztropic Mesa, Arizona1 point
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Definitely time to re-pot those Chinese Fan palms into a larger container. Don’t worry about those minor imperfections on the petioles.1 point
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Yep...just pulled spear on six three gallon potted mules and two more schizzophylla. These will be treated of course and I'll hope for the best. Still no sign of life from my three Beccarriophoenix alfredii...1 point
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Small flowering specimen in a pot. Died slowly from 20 F and ice. A larger inground specimen nearby saw around 21, dry and windy, with moderate damage.1 point
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Outside of the Malone United Methodist Church there is another DeFuniak or Brazoria looking palmetto. Malone is about 60 miles from DeFuniak springs. It definitely isn’t a palmetto. Most likely a sabal minor and palmetto hybrid. It could be the same as the DeFuniak palm or a brazoriensis or some other hybrid brought in and planted there.1 point
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I’m more concerned why Coccothrinax and Copernicia aren’t grown more here than “Sablah”. 🤣1 point
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I am a little suspicious about the identity of your Encephalartos cerinus based on the relative width to length of the leaflets. I don't recall mine at that age and whether wider leaflets are just a juvenile trait, so I could be wrong. My boy has had a little green tip poking out, threatening to flush for about a month. No changes thus far though. You can see the leaflets are relatively narrow in the leaf photo.1 point
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From the looks of that building, it’s WAY WAY older than the Queen palm that is about twenty years old. That building certainly wasn’t built in 2006 or later. I’ve seen many cases of palms “hugging” the walls they are right next to.1 point
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There’s some cones, there is some flushes but people often ask how do i propagate suckers/offsets or how do i pollinate a cone, how do i know when it’s ready etc….. today i removed a couple nice offsets from one of my female E. Dyerianus plants. A fairly easy process depending on plant location and soil. These happen to be in easy digging soil. I removed the excess dirt around the area of the offset. Today my tools consisted of a hammer and crowbar. Simply placed the crowbar between the offset and main stem and a couple love taps later we have a beautifully removed female dyerianus sucker. I treat these in a fungicide and add a rooting powder to the exposed areas on the offset. Place in perlite or pumice and give it a good water in. Sit back and wait for your roots to grow….1 point
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