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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/14/2026 in Posts
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My second order this season from Floribunda arrived this afternoon and all are new trials for me. They all are BIG in their respective containers as is usual from this excellent vender. Pritchardia aylmer-robinsonii Chamaedorea arenbergiana Chrysalidocarpus ‘Baby Red Stems’ Pinanga ‘Maroon Crown Shaft’ Anyone with personal experience with any of these, please comment.7 points
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I would like to see the poster's location on my phone and tablet without going into the profile. Location is visible on a desktop with the post.3 points
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When my large Wodyetia failed , I waited and it was tough to watch such a beautiful palm go through that. No identifiable reason for the failure . No frost , well draining soil , and 7-8 years of solid growth . Other palms in that area of the garden were fine . The Foxtail just decided to die , about 7’ of smooth trunk plus the crown. It looked pathetic for the last year but I thought I could save it. I tried different treatments over a 12 month period , nothing helped. By the time it was cut down , I was so frustrated . A few blocks away , a friend has a huge one is his front yard producing copious amounts of fruit with viable seeds. Nice palms , but finicky here. Harry3 points
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All will be good growers, the only one I have not grown is the pritchardia. And as for the rest they all have seen temperatures at 2 degrees celcius, so the zone pushing has been tested on all but the pritchardia. I have lost so many palms to cold weather over the years I have been pushing the boundaries in relation to cool weather, don’t look at as a experiment but as a win for your garden!2 points
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None whatsoever on those. They are very nice looking palms and I’m sure , with your expertise , have a very good chance. You have the perfect environment in your garden . Now that my garden has matured a bit , I am venturing out as well. When my friend gets back from Japan , I will be getting my first FB order in . We are going in together on an order. Harry2 points
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Licuala pelata var sumowongii, super sun tolerant! Richard2 points
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To me all the hose does is keep them alive, but the nitrogen in the rainwater is the best fertigate system one can have. Richard2 points
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Yeah, I heard that about the Pritchardia. If it’s indeed hardly differentiated from P. remota, that’s okay since there’s no remota in the garden. Pinanga ‘Maroon Crown Shaft’ was recommended to me based on its possibly being the most cool tolerant of the genus. We’ll see.1 point
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Iam so glad iam not on town water, flouride they can have on their own. I have a note for water that’s a bit high in iron thankfully the palms dont seem to mind it, although I have lost some small batches of palms, not to sure if it’s the iron, but they damp off so most likely grower mistake. What are your thoughts on acid rain?1 point
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Me too. Our tap water is sourced from city wells so it’s very hard. Lots of calcium and high ph. We’ve had lots of springtime rain up here so everything looks so happy especially after the HOT month of March. By summer’s end, some of my palms have brown tipping as the calcium salts build up in the soil. I do try to flush the soil around the more affected palms with the garden hose periodically and that seems to help a lot.1 point
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LOL I am currently watching a neighbor who had a broken irrigation system in sand. 4 royals are wasteing away even with our (NOT THIS YEARS) rains. They shrivel up from the grow point down. It takes a few years for them to come down. If you think aobut it and use Google AI's estimate of 63-64% water from an oil palm, it means 2/3rds of the weight can be lost in dessication. And it occurs from the top down so the tendency to topple shrinks with dessication/time. Ive also seen abandoned field nurseries where some royals waste away. The guy up the street has 3of 4 where the crownshafts are gone and the trunk is continuing to dry up and dissappear top down. I walk my dog by there everyday. As the thing dries out and loses height there will be less of a damage risk dropping it. I have thought about this a lot as I do have a fat royal with 25' of clear trunk. Its not a coke bottle so much. I'd say 28 in ch minimum trunk diameter with a max probably 5" more than that. A simple calculation on water weight is using water alone based on 64lb ft3 says that tree is 8000 lbs of water in the trunk with one third of that wood which is not counted in the weight. I would estimate 10,000 lbs for the trunk overall if wood is 0.8 the density of water and 33% the volume of the trunk. Who wants to chop down such a tree and then have to carry those 5 tons of wet trunk away? It could easily be 1/3rd of that weight and if you let it dry out and crumble you have mulch you can spread, and not have to carry away at all. Im still thinking about it for the day if it comes in my lifetime.1 point
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Had this one in the ground for 26 years. And it seems to have enjoyed growing in the garden. I do know with the dead leaves not to mulch them in the garden they get seperated for the big compost heap. Too many times when planting plants in that area you get the needle sharp spines in the hands. One glorious palm not that often seen in my area!1 point
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Up the back yard near the propagating hothouse is the sancona, it endures many a tough time and is in need of a good feed. But finally after 26 years we have a trunk forming. Some palms in my climate just want water, this one is in a dry spot without irrigation donuts done quite well considering the circumstances it grows under, basically in the bush!1 point
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I brought back three Kerriodoxa elegans palms from the farm. Two of them were the same price, but their overall appearance is completely different. Obviously, the one with the taller trunk is much bigger. It seems Kerriodoxa elegans has male and female morphs. I believe the one with short, sturdy foliage is the female plant.1 point
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I have a little Licuala Mapu that has been slowly declining in my greenhouse cabinet. 🥲 After doing a bit of reading I think the issue is the soil. I think what caused the decline of the palm was water logged soil, so the leaves started showing browning on the edges & then eventual death to some leaves. I am not typically an overwater-er so I am surprised I ran into this issue ! I think also what the main culprit was inside the cabinet the pot has drainage holes on the bottom & sits in a tray of water (which I add to increase the overall humidity in the cabinet) - so the pot has been waterlogged for quite some time ! Anyways, I have been trying to figure out a good soil mix. I read that 2/3 pine bark, 1/3 seramis is good. But I don't have seramis where I am located. What are some alternatives ? I was thinking 2/3 pine bark with maybe a gritty soil, like succulent type soil ? thoughts ? Also when repotting, I think I'll use a clay pot (sounds ironic, but will help with the over watering issue). Also when repotting, I am not sure how root sensitive these palms are, but I want to remove the old water logged soil from the roots. I am thinking of using a hose to gently do so.1 point
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Missed the latest posts in this thread, looking good everyone. Dale, back in the early 2000’s I had never even heard of this palm, available species were a bit limited, at least for a newbie like me. Yours looks like the type, with the new colored leaf. You know, mine used to throw the new red/orange leaf, but it’s been awhile since it’s done that. I wonder if I’ve just missed it or if the palm grows out of that stage. I’ve posted these photos before, somewhere on PT, but here they are again. Tim1 point
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