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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/09/2026 in Posts

  1. It's been exactly 4 years since my Copernicia berteroana last flowered. Looks like this year will be the year to start some more seeds. Seems to be a scarcely seen palm in peoples gardens for whatever reason. Maybe a 4 year flowering cycle has something to do with it?🤔😄 aztropic Mesa, Arizona
    8 points
  2. When in Brisbane a must see place for any plant nut is the botanical gardens. The garden is improving with time and you can definitely see the age in some of the plants there. The tahina has tucked itself in and give it five years and a bit and it will be the showcase of the gardens, as you walk out of the visitors centre you will be greeted by the tahina welcoming you to the world of plants.
    4 points
  3. @guillerman looks like you’ve got a really REALLY nice Rhop. baueri purple crownshaft just like mine!
    4 points
  4. I just couldn’t pass up on some of the plants on offer at the pacsoa show this weekend. Just a couple more for the collection! satakentia liukiuensis kentiopsis oliviformis Dypsis ambositrae Geonoma atrovirens licuala sallehana Calyptrocalyx flabellata pinanga sarawakensis loxococcus rupicola calyptronoma occidentalisDypsis sp Bill Beattie Basselina glabrata Dypsis orange crush calmus muelleri polyandrococus caudescens Calyptrocalyx yummutumecalyptrocalyx flabellata cocothrinax guargruana Mapu for the wife you know how it is fellas you gotta get the wife a gift when you spend up! Zamia pictaDypsis hetromorphusDypsis avisonii Dypsis DrannsfieldiiDioon Rio verdeDioon holmgreniiSchippia concolor All set to go in the garden for a bit more of that tropical look chamearops humillis cocothrinax eckmanii licuala fractiflexavietcha montgomerianadypsis procera
    3 points
  5. I'd also like to add I'm leaning more towards Butiagrus as the petioles have that mottled white stuff that is more associated with Syagrus.
    3 points
  6. Has anyone seen anything like this before? I can’t help but wonder which Rhopalostylis variety it might be. My first thought was Chatham Islands, but I’m starting to doubt that. It could possibly be a Great Barrier Island form instead. Or even a naturally occurring hybrid with archontophoenix cunninghamiana? It’s surrounded by them.. Anyway what caught my attention is the very open crown and the extremely dark crownshaft color. I was also looking through some older Rhopalostylis photos and I think Geoff Stein used to have a few similar plants in cultivation. Curious to hear what others think on the variety — what are your bets?
    3 points
  7. Even if my garden is young, for some palms The circle is complete
    3 points
  8. I agree with the others that you’ve got an R. baueri. Incidentally, Rhopalostylis and Archontophoenix DNA is not similar and, therefore, cannot hybridize with each other.
    3 points
  9. It was a flamethrower when it came into this world and it’s going out as a flamethrower as well.
    3 points
  10. The ‘ole’ Chrysalidocarpus paucifolius, aka ‘orange crush.’ Love the scale that growing in almost solid rock dictates. Tim
    3 points
  11. This is one of the things that I try and tell people, that every cold event is different. Just because your palms survived at a certain temperature before doesn't mean its guaranteed that it will again. The conditions before, during and after the cold all matter. I'm so used to having palms damaged at temps that on paper they should have no issues with. In Oregon it was different because of the dampness in winter, and slow or minimal daily rebounds. Here in a hot southern zone 9B you would think this would be an optimal zone 9B with high daily rebounds, and good solar radiation. I am very far south. What I think hurt me this time was that everything was actively growing. Our winter had been in the 70s and 80s and then one blip and back up again. It wasn't only palms that were damaged, but other plants too. However they have better mechanisms for recovering from cold damage. I have a Stellar Ruby Magnolia that is rated to zone 7a, it was mostly burnt. Last year it took 19F during its first winter in the ground and was fine, this year its much bigger and it got fried at 23F and actually showed signs of damage from our first frost at 29F.
    2 points
  12. Agree, Butia oderata (capitata)
    2 points
  13. Here is an update on some of my palms. I worked this past week and got everything trimmed. Palms that were damaged but not on the updated list are still alive and firm but no active growth yet. PALMS Aiphanes horrida x minima (6’) -100% burn, already had about 25% burn from earlier cold, it always showed damage below about 35F every year but always quickly recovered, dead Archontophoenix cunninghamiana (20’) -major burn, new leaf opening Archontophoenix purpurea (7’)- 100% burn new leaf opening Arenga engleri (7’)- surprisingly burn on one leaf, several leaves burned, very delayed damage Brassiophoenix drymophoeoides (5’)- 100% burn dead Carpentaria acuminata x Adonidia merrillii (25’)- 100% burn no signs of growth yet Chrysalidocarpus psammophilus (3’)- 100% burn dead Cocos nucifera ‘Green Malayan’ (10’, 3’ trunk)- almost 100% burn but a few green leaflets and petioles still green, already push new growth, it already had about 20% burn from frost a couple weeks prior, cut out dead center growth and spear, no rot, now new growth is strongly pushing out! Euterpe edulis (10’, 5’)- both have 100% burn 10’ specimen is dead, 5’ opening new leaf Hyophorbe verschaffeltii (6’)- 100% burn new leaf opening Pinanga coronata (4’)- 100% burn main stem appears dead, suckers have new growth Pritchardia hillebrandii (3’)- moderate burn, still lots of green center spear pulled, cut and treated, new growth pushing out Ptychococcus lepidotus (5’)- 100% burn dead Ptychococcus paradoxus (6’)- 100% burn dead Ravenea rivularis (6’)- 100% burn new leaf opening Syagrus sancona (7’)- severe burn new leaf opening Wodhyethia bifurcata (4’)- 100% burn dead PANDANS Pandanus furcatus (15’)- 100% burn but green already pushing out removed all dead leaves, new growth pushing out Pandanus letocartiorum (decumbens) (2’)- 100% burn dead Pandanus penangensis (monotheca) (5’)- 100% burn dead Pandanus tectorius (spineless form) (3’)- 100% burn dead Pandanus tectorius, dwarf spineless variegated form)- 100% burn dead PALM-LIKE PLANTS Ravenala madagascariensis (15’)- 100% burn, new growth emerging Ravenala menahirana (Honkondambo) (3’)- 100% burn, new leaf emerging, new leaf emerged but petiole browned and collaped, cut and new growth emerging again Sphaeropteris cooperi (Cyathea) (10’)- 100% burn new fronds uncurling Strelitzia nicolai (10’)- 100% burn new growth emerging
    2 points
  14. I thought butia capita?
    2 points
  15. What are they doing to that poor kentia, as an Australian I must stand up for one of finer palms living abroad in such cold conditions, please send my condolences to the palm!
    2 points
  16. You had to be there it was like the heavens opened up and the palms fell to the ground! I couldn’t buy anymore I had no room left in the car, even left the wife at home so I had more room in the car. Those procera I grab one to start with then every time I walked past I grabbed another and eventually well you know I walked past five times, so iam no mathematical genius and I ended up with all five by the looks of it, one is even flowering🌱
    2 points
  17. a little bit of Italy in Australia, here they are everywhere
    2 points
  18. I notice your screen name is the Hilo zip code. I used to live there and am now living in a similar climate to yours in El Centro, CA. I can't really distinguish this palm from a Butia vs Butiagrus since they are both such variable seedlings, but something to help identify it is to look at the growth rate. I figure it would take a Butia about 3 to 4 years to get to that size, so if that palm is younger, I'd lean towards Butiagrus. Generally the seeds are not viable, but there are exceptions. I believe the Butiagrus at Huntington BG used to periodically set viable seeds.
    2 points
  19. At that size, it is pretty hard to tell, but I would guess it might be something in the Butia family. It looks like it is getting its first divided leaf, which is going pinnate.
    2 points
  20. Well I hit the rain jackpot these last 24 hours. I’m at 4.5” and the plants have responded incredibly. My yard was looking dead and it has now sprung to life. Some of the perennials doubled in size and the palms pushed a few inches of spear. Just incredible the difference that actual rain makes.
    2 points
  21. I don't want to be complete doom and gloom though. I have been pleasantly surprised that my Washingtonia must truly be at least mostly filifera. It has pushed out some damaged spears already, but you can't even tell it was damaged at all unless you are up close. I also had several Chamaedorea radicalis seedlings that I started last summer come through easily. I didn't plant them until August. I gave them no protection and they have no overhead canopy either. They did fry in the freezing rain as I expected. Every single one of them is pushing out new growth with no intervention from me. I can't recommend these palms enough. I had my mature specimen in the ground for multiple Oklahoma winters with only unheated coverings during snow. It always came back from any damage by June.
    2 points
  22. I hate that you had damage on so many palms that you would think wood have been safe as well. The majority of my frustration sounds similar to yours. I planted mostly very hardy palms that should be as near bullet-proof as any plant can be. I still saw damage at temps these palms can and do take without damage all around my neighborhood. I understand that it takes a few seasons to get plants well established. I think I allowed my past experiences to fool me into thinking that these palms would be safe in their second winter with temps that are normal zonal lows for my area. Lesson learned.
    2 points
  23. last night we got a few good periods of rain, my phone says 0.05", that makes me laugh as water collected in the back yard. Looked like we got at least 1-2 inches. Its normally dry this time of year. 30 consecutive days without measurable rain in spring is not that uncommon, Ive seen 60 consecutive days with no measur4able rain in spring a decade ago. We had a little bit of rain two days ago, probably just 0.1" or so. Last night was loud on the metal roof for 3 half hour periods, lighter rain in between. It was a good hard rainm the kind that makes driving difficult even at reduced speeds due to low visibility. THis morning I saw the water level in the retention ponds I walk by every day (walking the dog) has changed, the waterline is up as is the canal water level on the other side of the retention ponds and water is moving down the canal again. The real problem was that it hadn't significantly rained since september. We typically get about 9 inches of rain from Nov through February and I expect we have had less than 1 total inch. Last year was below average rainfall so we now have drought restrictions. I am happy for the rain but the weather report has been very inaccurate as the rain has fallen in heavy clustered areas with dry regions around it. I just want to be able to water my yard more than 1x a week again before it gets hot..
    2 points
  24. Similar to King Pyhrrus saying, another such survival and the plant will be ruined.
    2 points
  25. In my area up here in the Bay Area, king palms are all over the neighborhood. My own personal experience with them is that they are the easiest and fastest growing palms in the garden, sun or shade. I have groves of them as well as ones growing singularly. Seeds pop up by the thousands just as much in the winter as summer. Some of those volunteers are aver twenty feet tall. I have all the other Archontophoenix species doing well too. The first ones I planted in 2001 sailed through the 2007 freeze (26°F) with barely a scratch. Just some light bronzing on horizontal fronds and they replaced those leaves by summer’s end.
    2 points
  26. New leaf on Philodendron Caramel Pluto
    2 points
  27. Chrysalidocarpus loucoubensis sowing some color after a frond drop. Tim
    2 points
  28. 1 point
  29. Not my pic but somebody posted this on another forum. It's the Smashburger coconuts on Colonial Dr in Orlando. They said the other is pushing a green spear too. Mine has opened some green and I've seen others in Orlando and people's pictures down to Melbourne also pushing green already. Unless all these palms eventually show issues longer term, I have to admit I'm surprised because of the type of freeze. Many experienced 24F-26F. If we see decent amount of survivors this cold may need analyzed why we saw as many survivors. Kinda odd.
    1 point
  30. This fellow has a series on freeze damage.
    1 point
  31. Absolutely beautiful, keep looking for more single stem beauties I say. I just managed to germinate a stack of them, I will keep an eye for the elusive single stem!
    1 point
  32. Mazat my 'Mitleid' for the second specimen😮‍💨
    1 point
  33. Archontophoenix as well as others are very slow to start . Many times the first few years can be a lot of work with very little reward . Replacing a tree with something grown from seed takes many years . A greenhouse can speed things up . King palms are fairly common here in Southern California and I bought a one gallon palm for$12 a year ago . I have many seedlings that I grew when one of my mature A. Cunninghamiana dropped a bunch of seeds . The seedlings need constant watering and shade and are very slow growing . I also grew some Howea F. from seed and they are actually passing up the Archontophoenix! It is a great hobby but it takes many years and a lot of patience to grow palms from seed. The exception is the Chamaedorea palms , much faster to gain size and quicker germination rate. Harry This Howea F. Is almost 3 years old and just started speeding up….a bit! A community pot of Chamaedorea Radicalis Tree Form is less than 2 years from seed . I don’t discourage folks from growing from seed , it can be rewarding . It just takes a few years to get rolling . Once you get about 5-6 years worth of seedlings moving along , you will have palms that may be ready to plant in the garden. ‘This Chamaedorea Radicalis ( middle of pic) was a volounteer from one of many Tree Form Radicalis I have around our house . About 5 years old when this was taken a year ago. It is forming a trunk already . Have fun with it and be patient. Harry
    1 point
  34. In my experiences over the past 40 yrs, winter damage isn't fully realized until a month or perhaps two into spring. I think some of yours @palmofmyhand are worthy of attempted rejuvenation. Part of that process is fending off inclement weather which can fuel, fungi, mold etc. Best of luck. Keep us posted on your efforts/results.
    1 point
  35. I've always found them slow. I think the sun is stronger in the Southern Hemisphere or something else is going on but mine need part shade or they just burn. Once you get that right spot they are happy consistent growers but not the fastest by far. Tracy you are getting a wonderful speed of growth out of yours and many of your other palms too so keep posting pics.
    1 point
  36. I have a one gal from Floribunda that I put in the ground last year. It was in shade all winter in a poor draining area and I was really impressed how good it looked and continued to grow. I’ve tried a few in sun and heat before and they were not happy. It seems to me that is/was the conventional wisdom. I think yours looks pretty good Tracy!
    1 point
  37. They sell them in South Florida as indoor plants.
    1 point
  38. We had some in large pots in front of our house back in 2009. That summer was extremely hot and sultry with many 90+ degree temps in the day, and even very warm at night. However, they did great and more than doubled in size in the pots outgrowing them quickly. Upon taking them out, I planted one in ground in the backyard. If I remember right, it actually pulled through some light freezes okay at first, but eventually temps in the mid 20's and below finished it off.
    1 point
  39. Thats pretty much the way I see it. Its rare to see Kentias growing in Queensland gardens. In fact, I cant recall seeing too many growing here on the Gold Coast. They simply dont like hot/humid Qld weather, that is, anything from 10S - 28S. 1000klms further South around Sydney they are a very common garden palm. Of course, Sydney's climate is very similiar to Lord Howe Island. I've seen them in the Brisbane area and they look a bit thin and sickly compared to fat healthy specimens down in Sydney. In my Perth garden I had a nice fat trunked one with a base about 60cm across, but even in Perth away from the coast, they burn unless protected a bit and given a fair bit of water. The best ones I've seen in the west are actually on the south coast around Albany where I am now. There are some pristine ones down here in full sun and take the full coastal battering with ease. There are even some Howeas down here that are completely unirrigated and doing well.
    1 point
  40. I'm a little confused by your comment, what is 'my case.'
    1 point
  41. try Veitchias, Carpentaria, and Ptychospermas. they are similar in morphology, but much happier in Florida's climate. them plant a few kentias just to give them a try. plant them in some shade though. Cool thank you!
    1 point
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