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An interesting little batch of seedlings, seeds kindly donated by @palmtreesforpleasure it will be an interesting palm to grow for sure!

Here are a few shots of the mature P. beccariana. Tim

It just goes to show never give up on your seeds. I had this lot dead and buried, took them off the heat mat and put them on the potting bench around 12 months ago to use the old medium in some potting soil. Well iam glad I didn’t use that mix. I lucked up on one seed sprouting. If they haven’t rotted away completely, keep those seeds around you just never know your luck.

Cyphophoenix elegans and nucele do well in the coastal zone as does Clinostigma savoryanum. Maybe my neighbor a couple of blocks away, Billy or Dale in HB, can share their experience growing Bentinckia condapanna in the region impacted by the marine layer. I think they will be positive comments.

Not under the powerlines though. My guess is about 14 to 15 years before a 1 gallon will hit the powerlines. My sun exposure Chrysalidocarpus ambositrae is about 10 or 11 years in the ground from a 1 gallon and it will hit that height in another 4 to 5 years, so give it head room. Cocothrinax do well here but won't be a height problem. Arenga engleri cap out on height so are well suited for positioning under those powerlines. You get the added bonus of their fragrant flowers this time of year.

P. beccariana #3 Tim

P. beccariana #2 Tim

Thanks to this thread I think I have some clarity of half dozen Pritchardia planted out back. They were leftovers from an Arbor Day event back in 2016. The two species of seedlings were P. beccariana and P. hillebrandii in small 4” pots. The P. hillebrandii grew twice as fast with wide flat leaves and abundant lepidia. I had always assumed these were the P. beccariana because of these traits. The real P. beccariana in the meantime, were much smaller with bowed leaves and very sparse lepidia, so I thought they were P. hillebrandii with wavy leaves and whitish leaf undersides developing as they got older. After looking at the photos on this thread, I realized which was which, primarily because of the more round shallowly divided leaves and very little lepidia. I’m still a bit shocked by the growth disparity between the two. Anyway, I do have mature P. beccariana in the garden, the inflorescence and seed key out with the species. Tim P. beccariana #1

Dave, I am a little suspicious as to which palms that you can grow that they can't grow in Huntington Beach. You have been to my garden in Leucadia and seen what I am growing. Huntington Beach is very similar if not a little warmer and windier than her due to both local topography and the large flart plane inland from Huntington Beach. Look at Dale's plantings in Huntington Beach and some of the other members both there and in Seal Beach. So there are two parts to your question, first the palms that grow well in the coastal zone of Southern California, and second the ones that are smaller for small lots with lots of power lines impacting the overhead heights. On the coastal zone issues Chambeyronia of all variety will grow, several of the Burretiokentia species, Howea's of both variety, Rhopalostylis of all variations. Chrysalidocarpus of many species will all grow here, ambositrae, affinis, basilongus, cabadae, pembanus, rufescens, prestonianus, robustus, lanceolatus, lutescens, saintelucei and the list goes on. I could continue, but the focus isn't on what will grow in the coastal zone of Southern California, but what will grow that is appropriately sized. So I'm now going to focus on the smaller palms that will grow well in Huntington Beach, here in Leucadia, down in OB, Cardiff by the Sea, or Venice where the next SoCal Palm Society will be. Someone mentioned above the various Chamaedorea, which are good choices. Ravenea glauca is a good choice, but Ravenea xerophilla is a bit of a challenge unless there is a good southerly exposure, perhaps with a good wall behind it for reflected heat. Some of the smaller growing Pritchardia won't interfere with power/comm lines overhead. Burretiokentia kogihensis is a slower growing species that won't be a problem overhead for a long time compared to hapala. Cryosophilia stauracanthia is an uncommon small palm that will meet the criteria. Several Coccothrinax do well here in California's coastal zone. On a slightly different note, there are a bunch of Cycads that give a tropical feel. I don't think is a species in the Encephalartos genus that can't be grown here (Dale in Huntington Beach will verify that). Ceratozamia, Cycas, Lepidiozamia, Macrozamia and several Zamia thrive her for a tropical, palmy feel. Complementary plants like Anthuriums, Bromeliads and Orchids will all thrive. I know I'm missing a bunch of good recommendations but this is just a first swing.

By golly, I do live here! The oldest one came from a friend’s property on the way to Volcano. The palms were scattered among the native tree ferns and can you believe they didn’t particularly like them? At that time I knew nothing about Pritchardia, so I eagerly dug up the smallest one with a borrowed shovel and hauled it home. That task was hernia inducing for sure. Stayed in suspended animation for about two years then took off. Naivete can be so awesome in the right situation. Tim

Only one new frond but looking good, they're slower when grown in shade.

Three great palms getting my attention roscheria melanochaetes chamaedorea adscendens, linospadix monostachya and kerriodoxa elegans carpoxylon macrospermum

Tim, the mature one is a stunner.. How old do you reckon it might be? Looks like one you’d see in habitat. Oh yeah, that’s right, you live there . 😁

A lot of red, with 5 hokoeri in a row!

Two months after planting and it's starting to grow it's first set of fronds. Two have opened up and there are two more spears that are about to open up as well. Seems like it's got a got root establishment going. I'm going to remove the rope when the windy season ends and leave the braces on another year until it gets a strong root system.

Chrysalidocarpus ambositrae and Hedyscepe

They absolutely can survive planted in the ground, in Phoenix, if sited correctly. (Think microclimate) Here's one I had grown from seed that was in that spot for several years. Also had a bottle palm in the ground for about 20 years before our brutal summer of 2020 took out both of them...🤷‍♂️ aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Gaussia princeps and any of the Hyophorbe will grow in the coastal zone. Give Hyophorbe lagenicaulis reflected heat from a wall for best results. Pseudophoenix sargentii is another Cthat will be slow enough to not cause problems for closer to 3 decades in a height constricted position. If you have headroom for something bigger in a spot, Chrysalidocarpus decipiens does well along the coast from Ventura to Point Loma at a minimum.

That’s a special palm! Not many of those around at all. I hope it does well for you, should enjoy your climate.

Geonoma atrovirens adds a bit of colour to any greenhouse!

Good rain about so plant as much as you can! A good handful of chamaedorea plumosa, lytocarum weddlianum, dypsis lantzeana, anthurium vietchii, davidson plum and some draceana goldieana.

I have more two leaf seedlings, and more seeds germinating. Some of my collection will remain in containers indefinitely unless I move to the tropics. Richard

Palmpedia already exists, man.

Calyptrogyne ghiesbreghtiana, not to worried about the cool wet conditions.

Here are some plus others that survived or did poorly in the freeze

Some intresting varieties for a palm garden. All varieties have their own unique characteristics. And as for slow, like the sands through the hourglass so are the days of our lives!

That's an excellent palm tree, Harry. Very exotic and tropical. Your palm tree is worth more than ten palm trees put together. They are exotic and unique palms. There's a Botanical Garden there. Congratulations! And I can imagine the happiness and pride that brings you, my friend. 🌴🌴🦜🦜🗿

Been gone for a while. Wish they had an app for this site lol But here’s an update on my palms so far this winter in Northern Rio specifically Enchanted Hills. I decided to NOT cover my robustas like I did the past 3 winters and they seem to be doing better uncovered. Thinking probably a trapped moisture issue creating a freeze like effect. I did however get nervous about them being robustas and placed a heat coil around the trunk and loosely wrapped the incoming spear. The rest of the palms just received a burlap wrap around their trunk. I know the windmill probably didn’t need one but being that it is its first NM winter, I did it anyway.

thanks surprising found these guys around the beaches..

Honestly they should go ham with CIDPs.

My dwarf Horridus decided to not only throw recurved leaves but complete circles at the end if every leaf. Crazy thing is I have had it for 20+ years and this is the first time I remember it doing so🤔 But I guess in Cycad years it is still a juvenile.

This is the best leaf form of all my True Blue Arenarius. Thing looks like a gnarly blue Ferox!

Just looks like some sunburn to start. Gotta understand that these and many other palms are grown under heavy shade in Florida to look their best for sale. When you expose them to full sun in your location, there is going to be some burning and dieback until new foliage is produced in your location.🤷‍♂️ aztropic Mesa, Arizona

These are relatively common ones posted above but have lots of other palms for sale. Give me a call to see if I have what you are looking for......thx! -Joe 760-300-7339

That one is the same age as my Pritchardia H. I bought two palms from a nursery in Maui . They were in 4” pots ( seedlings) about 16 years ago. The first five years were painfully slow for both , but then they grew moderately fast . I get 3-4 fronds a year on the Chambey , the Pritchardia gets more but is slower to gain height. The interesting thing about my Chambey is that the parent palm was the most beautiful Watermellon variety I had ever seen , with brilliant mottling. The grower had several and they all had the same mottling. As you can see , mine has very little . Harry The two pictures are about a year and a half apart . The second picture is from an old batch of photos.

You just never know until you try, hopefully over time it gets a bit healthier and it shrugs of the cold weather.

Ok I had a look in AI and indeed those sachets are water soluble, and should be thrown as a whole without previous opening in to the water bucket. This kind of package is called wsp, first two letters standing for water soluble. I guess I am still not so familiar with the potential of AI.

Been walking around more . Queens burned 5% to 10% Pigmy Dates burned 75% to 100% Bananas and Birds of Paradise burned 100% Philodendron selloum burned 0% This is around the George St / Historic district.

Do Pseudobombax pods and seeds mature if taken off the tree? I collected some pods off a local tree and opened one, both the fruit and the seeds were immature. I left them to rest in the sun, hope they can mature. Anyone has experience with something like this?

Beautiful Harry, how many years did it take to grow this size?

I use a Samsung with the Android ops and this has worked on a few generations of phones for me. The flip the phone sideways always does the trick but it took me a while to discover it. Seeing where the poster is located, is really valuable when someone new is posting about a probem, so you can see where they are and respond with climate appropriate advice. I'm looking forward to seeing the rollout of the updated platform.

Red Latania

Kentiopsis Oliviformis opened a new leaf today. Compared to some others on here, it looks to be more stretched out. It has no rings of trunk yet but it’s 10ft+ to the top of the frond. -dale

When they build that update, I hope they can create an encyclopedia about palm trees. It should be built with images and descriptions from each PalmTalk member, all compiled by a PalmTalk team of palm tree experts. The goal is to create a comprehensive encyclopedia where everyone can interact and view it through PalmTalk, ultimately leading to the publication of the "Book of Palm Trees"—the world's largest book on palm trees. This book should also include photos of germinated seeds of each variety, indicating whether germination is adjacent or remote. It would offer far greater knowledge than any other encyclopedia. Licuala Mapu: Female flowers are the longest. Male flowers are shorter and produce pollen. Female flowers receive the male flowers.

Hi Jim. I’m down south of the river along the Armadale hills and planted a few young Carpentaria specimens in my north facing garden with limited canopy, been in just over a year and they’ve proved to be quite hardy so far and growth through summer was great. If you could find some with pinnate leaf already I’m sure they will take off well.

Red is the color of the day.

Bump...updated photos of #1 and #2 palms. I have a palm acquired from Phil at Jungle Music about a dozen years ago that was labeled as Pritchardia beccariana. I think it most resembles your #2 palm Matty. It has flat, large round leaves with many shallow pleats compared to the deeper pleats on most other Pritchardia I have growing. Steve please share a photo or two of yours as well.

Hi there, looking out of one of the living room's windows... All the best from Okinawa - Lars

I was pretty happy to get my hands on Butia x Jubaea this last week: It was shipped from Oregon, so I was happy for a cool rainy week when it was in transit. Looks like it made it in good shape. My Butia (purchased locally) that spear pulled and started to die, is doing a bit better now, though it will be a long time before it looks normal: Trunk cutting sets them back badly, but it has sure helped me rescue the plant just about every time I have done it. Another example is my Sabal mexicana that performed so poorly last winter: Its twin spear pulled also, but had a new spear growing pretty quickly. So, it didn't need surgery: