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There seems to be some confusion as to what this palm is, @tim_brissy_13 @Jim in Los Altos As far as I know this sarawakensis, it does take cool temperatures down to 2 degrees celcius, both in containers and in the ground under cool wet conditions. So what is the true origin of this beautiful palm?

A leafbase came off a Chrysalidocarpus prestonianus. Plenty of orange color wasrevealed.

A little bit late, but here are a few photo's of my new Cycads!

Have heard about some of the cold you’ve had over your side of the ditch Richard. Hope everything holds up alright until you get back!

Ravenea hilldebrandtii and a nice young Chrysalidocarpus mananjarenesis. This couple should be a great addition for the garden in couple of weeks time!

Two of those seeds has germinated now! It seems to take even years to germinate. I will take them to 9a zone when they grow up. It can adapt non-limestone soils, as it does in habitat in Guangxi, China——it doesn't always occur on limetone hills.

Recovering foxtails in Altamonte Springs:

One of the holy grail oaks of Mexico. Quercus tarahumara. Two specimen at John Fairey Garden.

A few more of Quercus crassifolia. One of my favorite Mexican species based on the leaf underside z

Couple of sabinara magnifica, not worried about winter at all, even putting out a new spear. I will say they have some cool tolerance with temperatures down to 2 degrees celcius cold and wet conditions!

@kinzyjr indeed! Not all of my "Zone 10" palms died from the epic freeze, for sure there are some odd survivors. Both of my Elaeis Guineensis are growing back strong, despite spear pulls and crown rot infections. But most of them did die immediately or were lost to subsequent infections: 1 of 1 Carpentaria Acuminata 5 of 5 Burretiokentia - Hapala, Koghiensis, Vieillardii 1 of 4 Arenga Hookeriana, the other 3 regrowing from the roots 1 of 1 Actinokentia Divaricata 0 of 3 Arenga Pinnata - defoliated but growing back slowly! 0 of 1 Arenga Tremula - also defoliated but growing back 0 of 1 Arenga Westerhoutii - burnt to the ground but with 2 new fronds 0 of 12 Attalea - all were >75% defoliated but all growing - 4 Brejinhoensis, 3 Butyracea, 2 Cohune (?!?!?!?), 2 Phalerata, 1 Speciosa 3 of 14 Beccariophoenix Alfredii - all defoliated, but only lost 3 big seedlings under ~2-3' tall 5 of 5 Chamberyonia Macrocarpa - Watermelon, regular and Hookeri 0 of 19 Copernicia - Baileyana, Fallaensis, Gigas, Alba, Hospita, Macroglossa 0 of 2 Corypha - Lecomtei had minor burn, Umbraculifera defoliated 2 of 2 Crysophila Warscewiczii 9 of 9 Cyphophoenix - Alba, Elegans, Nucele 18 of 22 Dypsis/Chrysalidocarpus - 1 Lanceolata, 1 Decaryi and 2 Lutescens clusters survived, but other Lanceolata, Cabadae, Pembana, Basilongus, Albofarinosa, Arenarum all died 4 of 11 Hyophorbes - 2 of 4 Bottles and 4 of 7 Spindles died, but one of the Bottles I over-trunk-cut and killed the bud myself - oops. All died from bud rot or, er, a reciprocating saw. ☹️ ~3 of ~25 Gaussia Princeps - I still need an accurate pre-post count 1 of 4 Kerriodoxa Elegans - exposed and died of bud rot ? of 2 Licuala Grandis - still unsure 3 of 3 Ptychosperma Elegans - big seedlings 0 of 1 Ptychosperma Macarthurii 0 of 1 Ptychosperma Schefferi - burnt to the ground but growing back 4 of 10 Ptychosperma Salomonense - shocking survival of ~1' tall seedlings, so I bought more!!! 2 of 2 Ravenea Hildebrandtii 1 of 1 Ravenea Sambiranensis 2 of 2 Reinhardtia Latisecta 3 of 3 Satakentia Liukiuensis 4 of 4 Syagrus Amara strap leaf 2 of 4 Syagrus Lorenzoniorum strap leaf 3 of 4 Syagrus Sancona strap leaf 0 of 5 Syagrus Schizophylla 1-3' tall - all defoliated and I thought were dead, but all growing back! 1 of 2 Wallichia Oblongifolia/Densiflora - both defoliated, but the one in sun couldn't struggle back 4 of 4 Wodyetia Bifurcata - 10-15' foxtails defoliated and died from Thielaviopsis or bud rot At some point I'll have a complete list of the life/death spreadsheet for you! I was really impressed that the Kerriodoxa Elegans and Ptychosperma Salomonense pulled through. Many of the above deaths were planted as big seedlings or even strap leaves last summer, so it's hard to judge if a more mature palm would have survived.

Formerly Peckerwood Garden and Yuccado Nursery. Located in Pine Island, Texas. Brahea dulcis Sabal uresana Brahea berlandieri, Sabal uresana,Nolina nelsonii Serenoa repens Dioon edule, Nolina nelsonii Sabal causiarum Agave ‘Miquihuana Silver’ Brahea berlandieri Brahea berlandieri Brahea moorei Brahea dulcis Agave victoriae-reginae Yucca linearifolia Sabal uresana Nannorhops ritchiana

all the following palms in my yard recovered from the February freeze: royal, foxtail, coconut, adonidia, alfredii, hyophorbe lagenicaulis (bottle), pseudophoenix sargentii (buccaneer). foxtail and adonidia took the longest; royal, coconut, bottle and buccaneers showed life 6-8 weeks post freeze. other plants (mango, copperleaf, croton) recovered as well.

At the airport last week...always a good spot... And way up overhead, catching the last rays of light for the day

Do any have spines on the petioles? If not, I agree they're all Sabals.

That’s purely a judgment call. I see your other post and I’m not optimistic about the outcome but only you (or your HOA) can decide. I took out my coconuts pretty soon after because they were recently planted. I knew that it would be several years before they recovered, if at all. I decided to just move on as soon as possible. I had 3 and 1 was clearly dead. 1 was probably going to make it and the 3rd was 50:50. Of course, the one that was dead was not in the middle so the bed would have looked lopsided. I pulled them all and replanted the bed with a mango and ground accents before it got too hot. I think it was @kinzyjr who posted about the frustration of palms that seem to hang on for months only to collapse later. Sometimes they are already dead but don’t show it.

Yes, but how about the others? Or are all of them sabal? Thanks.

A nice young chrysophyllum imperiale, even as a young tree they are stunning. I will find a place for it somewhere in garden, that has plenty of space for this large tree!

Cerotazamia sp Toman st Charlie still holding its colour in the new leaf.

at Naples Botanic Garden.

They germinate easily, there is no need to put them in the freezer

Would be a good one for a balcony garden, and you could bring them indoors in winter, if you’re going to get some while you’re at it try chamaedorea metallica just as stunning. In fact most of the smaller chamaedorea varieties are all stunning little palms. Once the chamaedorea bug gets you you will be hooked. Pm for seeds Chamaedorea genoformis Genoformis chamaedorea adscendens Chamaedorea elegans chamaedorea metallicaMetallica

Greetings pictures would help. But if they have just been transplanted into the ground from what you’re saying. There would be stress involved gor them and a few leaves going yellow on the bottom leaves one would expect that to happen. Water with seaweed extract each watering for now. When you see some good growth happening then you can start to apply some fertiliser. Let the settle into there new home before you really start to push them with fertiliser. The heavy clay soil will gor a time act as large container until they tuck in and get there roots established, and with the amount of nutrients locked up in clay a large palm should be able to get into those nutrients once established.

The ever so beautiful piper magnificum with large green leaves and purple undersides of the leaf. If you were to think it’s a tropical that needs constant heat and humidity and never see cool temperatures. Think again about this one it’s taken low temperatures down to 2 degrees celcius and hot dry summer temperatures (not desert dry) but it’s certainly surprised me. So far so good for this top tropical in subtropical climate. So if your garden doesn’t get frost track this beauty down and get yourself one. Another zone push winner!

The only way I managed to keep two alive was to plant them out at second leaf stage or thereabouts. We just had a horrible run of low temperatures so I am a little concerned at what I will find when I get back to NZ!

Keep trying if the male is ready before the female, store the pollen in the refrigerator until such a time through observation.

I don’t grow Copernica palms, why they are just to slow, and you’re palms are just that example of how slow!

I'd leave it alone, it looks fine. Growth rate has to do with several factors including sunlight, these want that intense sunlight. The palms also like water but the best watering frequency will have to do with your soil and how it drains. If you must, you can use a surfactant to try and loosen the soil up(SDS or alternately the trade name SLS) but just watering more may just suffocate roots if your soil is of a limited drainage. Sodium dodecyl sulfate(SDS) or alternately sodium laurel sulfate(SLS) are potent surfactants. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), also known as sodium lauryl sulfate, is a strong anionic surfactant that lowers water surface tension and helps water penetrate tight spaces. While it can wet hydrophobic or oil-contaminated ground and aid in soil washing remediation, using pure industrial detergent on garden or landscape soil is generally discouraged because it can disrupt microbial life and damage plant roots. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11596332/ I used this in Arizona on my heavy clay soils along with a humic acid in the mix. It will help drainage and subsequent penetration of the humic acid into the soil. Humic acid makes a favorable root growing chemical environment by supporting beneficial microbe growth. If you get the concentrate, use just 1 fl oz per gallon(1/128, less than 1%) to prevent harmful effects. For me it was a one time thing and the drainage did improve. Sulfur pellets did the rest as they are slowly converted to sulfates that form gypsum with Ca in the soil, essentially correcting drainage permanently with enough sulfur. Hi calcium clay is water repellent due the Ca:Ca bonding which is broken down with the slow production of Sulfate from sulfur(go slow with sulfur, not fast with ammonium sulfate with can shift pH rapidly). If the soil is rocky, not much you can do to increase drainage. In florida I don't need any drainage correction that I cant achieve by digging and ammending so I dont use SDS at all. Use it sparingly and wisely and follow with a few humic acid rinses. For some reason I remember you have rocky soil Konstantinos, so just keep doing what you are doing it looks healthy.

Good hardy palms; Acoelorrhphe wrightii Acrocomia totai Allagoptera arenaria Arenga engleri Arenga ryukyuensis Bismarckia nobilis Brahea brandegeei Brahea clara Brahea elegans Brahea decumbens Butia eriospatha Butia odorata (capitata) Butia paraguayensis Butia yatay X Butyagrus nabonnandii Chamaedorea microspadix Chamaerops humilis Chuniophoenix hainanensis Copernicia alba Copernicia prunifera Lanonia dasyantha (Licuala) Licuala fordiana Livistona australis Livistona chinensis Livistona decora Livistona fulva Livistona lanuginosa Livistona mariae Livistona nasmophylla Livistona nitida Livistona rigida Livistona saribus Phoenix acaulis Phoenix loureiroi Phoenix reclinata (hybrids) Rhapidophyllum hystrix Rhapis excelsa Rhapis humilis Rhapis multifida Sabal bermudana Sabal x brazoriensis Sabal causiarum Sabal domingensis Sabal etonia Sabal maritima Sabal miamiensis Sabal minor Sabal palmetto Sabal palmetto ‘Lisa’ Sabal tamaulipensis Sabal uresana Serenoa repens Syagrus romanzoffiana Washingtonia robusta more cold sensitive palms for protected locations Acrocomia aculeata Archontophoenix cunninghamiana Arenga australasica Arenga caudata Arenga hookeriana Arenga microcarpa Arenga obtusifolia Arenga tremula Attalea cohune Attalea phalerata Attalea rostrata Beccariophoenix alfredii Caryota mitis Caryota monostachya Caryota obtusa Chrysalidocarpus baronii Chrysalidocarpus decaryi Chrysalidocarpus madagascariensis Coccothrinax argentata Copernicia baileyana Copernicia fallaensis Copernicia glabrescens Copernicia gigas Copernicia macroglossa Geonoma schottiana Hyphaene coriacea Hyphaene petersiana Hyphaene thebaica Kerriodoxa elegans Leucothrinax morrissii Licuala peltata Licuala peltata var. sumawongii Licuala ramsayi Licuala spinosa Livistona benthamii Livistona drudei Livistona jenkinsiana Livistona muelleri Livistona speciosa Phoenix pusilla Phoenix reclinata (pure species form) Phoenix roebelenii Phoenix rupicola Pinanga coronata Rhapis laosensis Rhapis subtilis Roystonea regia Sabal mauritiiformis Sabal yapa Sabinaria magnifica Schippia concolor Syagrus coronata Syagrus scizophylla Wallichia caryotoides Wallichia disticha Wallichia oblongifolia (densiflora) Wodhyetia bifurcata

One magical looking Ernest augustii!

Everything was perfect: packing, plants and communication. Thank you, Paul!

Please take on a whole different look when they’re trying to power through shade. Getting harder to take a picture in the jungle.

Encephalartos Longifolious

Here is a pic of the Encephalartos Trispinosus that Was completely yellowed out and had for at least the last 3 years thrown yellow/orange flushes. As you can see from the pic the old leaves started to get their color back and the new 9 leaf flush looks completely normal.

Spotted some neglected palms at a pretty run-down looking truck stop at exit 601 right off I-10 this evening. This is right between Cibolo and Seguin. Phoenix survivors that definitely aren't getting any care: Med fan, Washingtonia, Livistona, and Phoenix all in the same area:

I guess Iam pretty lucky then to have both growing in my area, fosteriana practically everywhere along the coast, and if you know where to look bellmooreana are out there, so much all you have to do is knock the door and they are giving the seeds away if you ask. The bellmooreana are such a lovely palm far better then the fosteriana in my opinion, and are beautiful looking seedling.

Dypsis rosea and a nice new leaf on the dypsis louvelli, a nice bit of winter colour!

The BA is clearly a winner, and not a messy palm as it will take many years to fruit and you could cut off inflorescences. Dypsis decipiens will not like it here. Looks like you need some full sun palms for now. ANd dont hestitate to create a grove with 20' spacing. These do get very large crowns here with 20' leaves down to the horizontal. Once they grow in a bit you could plant more shade sensitive species under them. THe copernicia alba is a winter, with the blue ones being particularly attractive and they do handle the hurricanes to 110mph. They are more cold hardy(20-22F) than alfredii and they are easy care. Your zone should also be good for Copernicia Fallaensis, Copernicia Baileyana, Copernicia Hospita and Copernicia macroglossa. All are good for cold 9B and very attractive palms that self shed to smooth trunks. Have you considered a bismarckia nobillis good cold 9B palm that throws some good shade and is self shedding in florida? Sabal uresana (blue variety) good to the low teens at least, would be an eye catcher. You might have to get that one small by mail from perhaps texas, but they also love sun and are bulletproof. Similar to yours, my yard was a blank slate, all full sun at first. As time goes by the more tender shade lovers can be added.

Love the Moorei here is mine over in Alvin it’s been in the ground for a year in relatively deep shade. Will miss it when I move to Florida lol 🥲

A few from west of Austin: Brahea decumbens, still green: Trithrinax campestris: Chamadorea radicalis: Sabal minor (Warren ,Arkansas): Brahea moorei: Various Sabal uresana: Chamaerops humilis argentea:Serenoa repens

Pinanga sp.’Thai mottled dwarf’, or at least sold as such.

................. 05 / 05: Lava Encore.. 05 / 08: Lines n' fronds... 05 / 13: Red Light Ender.. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'm sure a few of us have been down that road. I know I have.😁

Follow up: As much as I would have enjoyed watching the development of a hybrid, sparing the time to locate and retrieve one is probably unwise, living in a half-finished house restoration project. So off I went to Murray’s Nursery in Moss Point, MS, and picked up ($125/15 gallon) this “ordinary” Butia capitata, with a pretty girthy trunk beginning to form. It replaces the windmill that couldn’t handle last summer’s heat and drought (according to a landscaper’s diagnosis). Despite their ubiquity, I like the toughness, and in particular, the drought tolerance of the species. Wilburn Goff, at Murray’s, agreed with everyone here that you can’t tell the eventual color at this stage. This little beauty also followed me home: I don’t have a spot for it, but couldn’t resist. (Chionathus virginicus).

My verschaffeltia splendida gaining size and opening a new leaf. and my Areca macrocalyx starting to show some nice colour.

Cyphosperma naboutiniense. Tim

I can vouch for this vendor as well. I purchased one 8 years ago and have been very impressed, both with the color and growth rate. Eric does offer smaller, shippable sizes as well. And yes, it does have Jubaea blood in it's DNA, I confirmed this with mine when it flowered this year, as many of the flowers had more than six stamens.

Crystal Pier, Pacific Beach, Ca. Butch

Here’s a “before and after photo” of this planter area that was the first planter area worked on. This is about 2.5 years of growth! Pretty amazing 2022: 2024:

Squirrels have become public enemy #1 around here for that reason. Back in December, they managed to obliterate close to 80 Chambeyronia hookeri seedlings in a matter of hours. Since then we’ve built cages to keep seedlings safe as well as removal of said vermin. As of today, 73 squirrels have perished from “lead poisoning” through the assistance of a .410.