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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/08/2026 in Posts
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Hey palmtalkers. Just wanted to share the progress of my bailey palm. I planted this one from an overgrown, rooted in the ground, 1 gallon baby palm back in May 2016. A picture of that at first planting is shown as well with it being the tiny palm, center of the pictures. It has about an overall height of 9 to 10 feet now to the top of the leaf. Has been slower growing for me than I would like. It gets way to much shade from the surrounding palms now that they outgrew the bailey. It's hard to show in the photos, but this one has that blue-green color. One I prefer. Has been through 3 major hurricanes. Irma, Ian, and Milton. Some winds from Helene as well. It still holds damaged leaves from Milton, but I didn't want to over trim. Took some leaves off and left the others. Hopefully now that it's getting larger and a bit more sun, it will start to grow a bit faster.2 points
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Unfortunately it is in a traffic zone, and it has caused me trouble before, right down to the doctor in Sydney wanting to know what palm it was! They are so hard to remove the needles. You can run your hand down the trunk, but heaven forbid the other way going up. Richard2 points
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I can’t believe I managed to get these ceroxylon seeds to germinat. I wasnt doubting the quality of seeds. I was more worried about my climate being to warm for once, pretty well much sown at the start of summer so my fear was was that I wasn’t going to be able to keep them cool enough to germinate. It was a long hot summer, so the seeds were kept inside on tile floor in the coolest part of the house. So nearly 6 months later they are a popping. Not sure what I will do with them I might have to send them to the polar bear growers down south!2 points
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Two very nice palms for the garden. The Radicalis can take sun but the Microspadix wants nice cool shade . I get a lot of seeds from both of these species. Just push them in the ground and …more palms! Harry Chamaedorea Microspadix fruit Chamaedorea Radicalis Tree Form , Palm is about 8’ tall (out of picture) fruit is hanging at eye level.2 points
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Tnx most cool tolerant Dypsis/Chrysalidocarpus spp are pretty easy this way.2 points
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To me it just looks like cosmetic cold damage, nothing really bad . Now if you're experiencing spear pull/pulls then that could be a problem.2 points
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In Ventura California I have been seeing several Howea Foresteriana around the Industrial parks where my shop is . The Community Memorial Hospital has several mature Livistona Australis , large Howea Foresteriana , Chrysalidocarpus Lutescens, and beautiful Archontophoenix palms . Harry2 points
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Two different palms have come in over the years as Dypsis (now Chrysalidocarpus) Sp. Ambanja. The first was a multi trunk palm somewhat like Baronii. The second was a larger solitary palm. Mine has just revealed its first ring of trunk and is a really nice looking palm. Has similar characteristics as Leucomalla (white spear and coloring) and Sp. Dark Mealy Bug with the black flecking. But has a unique look of its own. Anyone else growing this?2 points
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Great to hear. Here is mine. Location: Orlando, FL south side of town. I'm on the E side of a large lake, giving decent microclimate benefits especially on radiational cooling nights. Temperatures: 1 night below freezing. Feb 1: 46F / 25.7F Feb 2: 55F / 34.4F Feb 3: 65F / 34.8F Protection: some (marked with * below) From my personal experience, I'd rate hardiness of my palms as: 1a) Phoenix roebelenii (40% burn [front], 10% burn [backyard]) 1b) beccariophoenix alfredii (10-20% burn, mostly tips) 3) Majesty palms (50%-60% burn) 4a) Foxtail palm (total defoliation, spear had green) 4b) Bottle palm* (total defoliation, spear had green) 6) Coconut palm* (total defoliation, minimal green in spear) 7) Christmas palms* (total defoliation, minimal green in spear) I don't have Royals but from what I'm seeing around town, I'd put them above Foxtails. One note about my coconut. I did experience bleeding and after much research and courage, I did cut some of it away. thankfully it wasn't deep. After spraying with copper very well and allowing it to dry, I applied a natural homemade patch of beeswax, olive oil and tea tree. What I learned is it was caused by a broken irrigation system. ugh. Always check your system. My pump was breaking and basically poured water right on the coconut trunk. I'm guessing a stressed tree couldn't fight off some early rot. My recovery method was: 1) Within one week of freeze, sprayed with copper fungicide. Repeated every 10-14 days for 2 months or until I didn't notice any sign of rot. If I was really concerned about rot, applied Banrot to specific palms. 2) Within one week of freeze, applied a root stimulator and repeated once a month for 3 months. 3) 15 days after freeze, applied a recovery formula to soil which is basically a light fertilizer. 4) Once soil hit near 70F, applied fertilizer 5) Watering often especially with this bad drought and heat. All pics below are about 60-90 days apart.1 point
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I was doing some research on S. domingensis and through some detective work and with the help of Google AI was able to find the location (in Bokeelia, Florida) of this house with the big old specimen out front. Sad to say this is yet another one of these situations where something great is felled...the above picture from 2021 is the last image with the palm in place. By September of 2023 it was gone. So sad when you think about how old this palm may have been. I'm hoping it wasn't a victim of an ignorant homeowner and rather of the hurricanes during that period, which included a 6-to-9-foot storm surge during Hurricane Ian in September 2022. This palm does come from a heavy-duty hurricane zone, so you might think it would stand tough against it, but it is S. causiarum, rather than S. domingensis, that occupies the hard-hit coastal zone...S. domingensis is typically found in the interior where it may not have evolved such a tough disposition...You can see the image progression on Google StreetView by looking at the past dates (click "see more dates") here.1 point
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Tracy, I did read your response to a post by PalmatierMeg about the limitations of growing the silver Encephalartos in Florida due to high rainfall and humidity, and poor drainage. Good drainage must be the key as you know what the rainfall and humidity in Hilo is like. These looked pretty good, or at least I thought so. I’ll take you over there on your next visit. Encephalartos lehmannii & horridus Tim1 point
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@Billeb Nice looking plant! I agree with Tracy that blue arenarius is the likely ID, but everything goes out the window if/when people hybidize! I saw your photos and I figured I share some photos of my similarly sized blue arenarius. These are two different angles of two different plants. Both came from Kevin Weaver. Maybe this will be helpful.1 point
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Whenever I come back to this thread and see the initial photo I opened it with, I can't help comparing to what the view looks like now. Due to the growth of plants in the foreground it is hard to duplicate the photo, but I was out in the garden this afternoon and did my best, minus my son and the dogs. That little Dypsis bef has grown but still competes for sunlight with the Encephalartlos horridus x woodii. The Cycad has grown a bit too, as well as the Kentiopsis (Chambeyronia) oliviformis, which is just a trunk in the photo now..1 point
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Very attractive form. The leaves look more recurved than many. Mine only has that recurve just at the tip of the leaf with the rest of it being basically straight. I'll go to a different genus, this is the Zamia standleyi. It's a male plant, only pushing a single leaf; funny thing is that it pushes out more cones than it does leaves in a flush. Last coning I think i had 5 cones. The second shot which shows how much taller this new single leaf flush will be than the prior flush of 3, has a flushing Cycas debaoensis trying to compete for attention in the background.1 point
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To fully appreciate what is going on right now with this cycad, I had to get shots from 3 sides. I removed some of the lower leaves from older flushes just so that it would have room for all the other flushes pushing. I couldn't get a photo from the 4th side, which has another lump on the main caudex that is a growth point. This one has it all, pups galore and 3 growth points on the main caudex. Seven concurrent flushes on this plant.1 point
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Tracy: Looks like you had a couple of the ArexLat X Lat crosses George made. It's interesting to see others as they begin to get bigger. I ended up with two and one died shortly after planting it (Crown Rot). Here is the one that is still going strong. Only one flush per year....I can't say my plant has the hybrid vigor I see in other hybrids. Nonetheless it's a really nice plant and happy it didn't see the same fate as it's sibling.1 point
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So when I opened the first photo file and looked at it zoomed in, the leaflets appear to have a mid-rib. That would immediately rule out Microcycas, so it must be some species of Cycas. I took close ups to clarify what Gene was looking for on the leaflets. First the Microcycas calcoma leaflets pictured followed by a few Cycas (debaoensis, tropophylla x micholitzii, szechuanensis ssp fairylakea, and thouarsii x cupida). No mid-ribs on the Mc leaflets, but all the Cycas have a mid rib in the leaflets visible. Now as to what species of Cycas, Gene or someone else may be able to weigh in. I've actually been known to try to catch someone outside working in their garden to ask about plants but rarely been bold enough to walk up to someone's door to ask. Maybe you are bolder than I am?1 point
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