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Thanks, it would have been a prize in my father’s collection!

You have them in your nypa swamp, the aliens! Good gosh you guys get up to to some strange stuff in sunny warm Tazzy, and I thought I was strange on the full moon, I guess what happens at sea stays at sea I suppose!

The utilis a garden favourite of mine, this one is around 26 years old, endured many a dry spell and heat along with seeing temperatures around 2 degrees celcius. It’s proven itself in my garden as a nice exotic palm that’s super tough. Catch them at the right time and they have a glorious colour to their new leaf. There aren’t many palms that split their trunk dichotomous is the word I think. A lovely palm with a few strange traits.

Thanks. Appreciate that. Here is a picture in 2016 when I initially planted it. You can see the sprouted coconut to the right in a pot. That's the red spicata. Good growth in 10 years. Queens are gone and old man palms died when hurricane Irma broke a small one at the base and the other died of fungal infection...crown rot. Garden has been added to over the years. Behind this there is more....tri bear, Fiji fan, sabal Lisa, bucaneer, a couple Chambeyronia oliviformis...just can't see them in the pic. They were added in 2017.

To everyone waiting for updates or interested in growing embothreum coccineum (Chilean fire tree) in the humid southeastern U.S., I've got updates and pictures. First, I have to talk about the long journey I've been on learning about this special tree. Everything I've read tells me it will fail anywhere in the U.S. outside of western Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia. But, I have high pain tolerance, and I think this is a rare tree that not enough people have attempted to grow here. So maybe I can trail blaze and contribute what I've learned about it. First, over the last 7 or 8 years I've attempted to grow this tree at various stages, from seedling to 3 feet tall and flowering. I've probably killed 8 - 10 trees, but I've currently got 3 growing (two from seed and one 4 foot tall and flowering). I've experimented with soil amendments, different soil moisture levels, and various levels of sun exposure. After all that, and several years of partial success and lots of failure, here's what I've learned. Soil permeability and temperature are the most important aspects of keeping this tree alive. It must have excellent soil porosity. If you're starting with clay soil, remove a few buckets worth of it, and mix in a few bags of coarse sand, gravel, and pine bark nuggets. Do not using potting soil or even compost. It can deal with poor soil just fine. Also be sure the soil stays cool and moist (not overly wet). After you've planted it in the perfect spot, give it bag after bag of mini pine bark nuggets around the area you've planted it in to keep the soil underneath it breathable, well draining, and cool. The 3 foot tall fire tree I planted had all that done, and I replaced its top 6" - 8" of soil as straight pine bark nuggets. That keeps the soil acidic and extremely well draining, as well as cool. Site location: The 3' tree that's stayed alive is now in its second blooming and growing season and was given the best spot it could ask for. It's about 4 - 5 feet away from a brick wall on a slightly downward slope, facing east. It catches full sun until noon, but during the hottest part of the day it stays shaded because of the brick wall. The heat and high humidity of north Georgia still stresses the tree though. In its first growing season it dropped half its leaves, which apparently is a survival mechanism for trees that think they'll lose too much water through transpiration. However, we watered that tree nearly daily the first year, and it rewarded us by staying alive after it bloomed its heart out. A few months ago I got worried because I read something that said if Chilean fire trees ever have a stressful year, they'll forever stop blooming. However, that did not end up being the case. Even though in its first year it was completely covered in flowers, the tree still gave us blooms this spring as well, just far fewer. We had probably 7 or 8 clusters of fiery red blooms, plus a lot of branch and leaf growth. Since these trees only bloom on new growth from the previous year, it may be promising that its grown so many new branches and leaves. However, I wouldn't be surprised if it dropped more than half its leaves again, and put itself into survival mode just to get through the dog days of summer here. That would mean only a few bloom clusters next year as well, but still worth it. I've read it wants night time temperatures below 65 degrees F in order to rest at night. Without that, it stresses. However, if you keep the roots cool and moist, and don't fry the plant with the hottest afternoon temps, it seems to do pretty decently here. Again, it is a protea, so don't fertilize it with any phosphorus. For my part, I just skip fertilizer altogether. They seem to do just fine without any of that. For all the other proteaceaes I grow in my yard (several types of grevilleas and Gevuina avellana), it really helps to put down some other ground covering plant. For example, my Tasmanian mountain peppers and Gevuina avellana were planted in among Asian jasmine vines, which keep the ground underneath cool and moist. It's the only way I've been able to keep those alive, and I'm sure it would help with Chilean fire trees as well if I were to plant new ones. The Chilean fire trees I planted from seed are another story. I have one that's probably 5 years old at this point, and was grown from seeds I purchase from the U.K. The one that's still alive from that batch shot up like a weed its first and second year, but now that its been planted in the ground, it grows very slowly. It's probably 10" tall at this point, however it did not have the benefit of being planted on the east side of my home. It was planted on the west side, which means it gets the brutal afternoon heat. But its saving grace is that it was planted right at the top of a retaining wall, on a slope that receives constant moisture from my AC condensate drip line. It also has the top of its soil covered in several inches of pine bark nuggets. The small hill above it has had many bags of sand mixed into it, and the retaining wall has nothing but gravel behind it. So it has very permeable soil and stays constantly moist, but not wet. This is enough to keep it alive with some small amount of growth each year, but I suspect if I could've planted it on an eastward-facing slope where it only received direct morning sun, it would be doing much better right now. The third fire tree I have is a seedling from the 4 foot tall specimen that has the perfect spot. I took seeds from it last year and got a couple to sprout. This is the last one to have survived. It's in a small plastic pot with its soil a mixture of coarse sand and peat moss. I put oak catkins all over the top of its soil line to make a carpet that would keep its soil cool and prevent it from drying too quickly between waterings. It's only about 1" tall at this point, but you can see its top is already splitting into two crowns. This one will likely be a multi-branched cluster if it survives. But interestingly, now I have fire tree genetics from both the U.K. and an Oregon nursery. I hope this inspires someone out there to give the Chilean fire tree a try (or two... or ten). It's a fickle tree, but to behold it in bloom is indescribable. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful tree in the world when blooming, and still a pretty tree for the other 10 months of the year. One last point, deer seem like the taste of the leaves, so protect it with a chicken wire cage if you have deer in your area. Good luck

Yeah, reckon they'd cook without a cool down at night. @kylecawazafla Livistona mariae, L rigida, L alfredii would all handle the heat, if you could keep the water up...I'm sure you already know that though!

I can manifest a wild, unsupported theory regardless of the moon phase...ask the aliens who live in my Nypa swamp!

First flowers on our indoor Rhapis multifida

Red spicata is great!! Almost fluorescent orange colors. This picture is from last year. Planted as a sprout in May 2016, so about 9 years in the picture. A bit bigger now.

A nice looking dypsis, that I have no idea as to what variety it is, the label says dypsis NM!

A nice wet winter day with the sun coming out in the afternoon.

At least there’s plenty of soil moisture in winter!

The garden is loving the cool temperatures, summer is nice, but the change in season brings a different perspective for the garden.

I think that's the point here. Parajubaeas and Jubaea can definitely survive periods of hot weather 40c/100 f plus temps, no probs for a few days, but if that's the average temperature for three months...?? It's a pretty big ask I'd say. And edit...but if no one ever tries, we'll never actually know!

Whoa we a problem child here, it looks overpotted and overwatered. But you say in the container for the last 3 to 4 years. If it’s been indoors most of the time, has it been putting on new growth and growing quite well over those 3 to 4 years. Possibly overwatering and it may have gotten too much fertiliser. Let it dry out, rest outside in warm shaded area. Mucking around repotting while it’s not happy is not a good idea. It may lead to more problems. Rest outside and dry out may be your solution.

They love there water, as suggested above. Your little palm has been on the dry side of life. In habitat they thrive in wet gullies creek beds, almost cool temperate conditions in dark shaded areas. They break through the canopy and take all the sun they can get, while there root system is in dark forest wet conditions. They dislike drying out.

Parajubaeas transplant relatively easily...it's a bit of a myth that they don't, at least as young plants. I've dug out maybe 20 over the years, some already pinnate, some still with strap leaves, and lost a total of two, both through carelessness with the tractor bucket. I had good germination success with torallyi and cocoides by sowing them in styrofoam boxes of perlite/peat like Richard uses with a light covering of sphagnum moss, then potting up in individual pots when the radicle appears. When you pot them up, just sit the seed on the top of the mix, use a free draining mix, and a reasonably deep pot, like a tree tube. @Tassie_Troy1971 recently germinated some P t microcarpa in some crazy short period, like 9 weeks or so. I think he had them at constant 24c or similar. Most of mine germinated in around six months but were still coming up three years later, so be patient.

The Chambeyronias throughout the garden are pushing new leaves, a welcome bit of winter colour!

Thanks for the I’d, they were my fathers broms and the spotty one would have been a special one in his collection!

I only have two in the garden. Both are 30 years old, one is raging along while its cousin is still doesn’t even have a trunk, planted about 3 meters apart. They are tough palms and have done the job that I wanted when planted with a vision. I see them planted around the place in my home town in full sun situations but to me they look better in shade I think. A wonderful tough palms and worth growing!

You won’t be saying that when we come a get you in our space ship 🛸

I think the police call it full moon fever, or is it the blue light with the phosphorus in the rocks that creates those strange lights in the bush at night. Either way iam up for a bit of full moon fever fun 👍

🌴🌴🦜🦜

Its raining hard now, sounds like a waterfall. but radar says it likely wont last. Sarasota and inland to the east do appear to be getting big rain on radar. End the drought!

Hi folks, I'm planting out part of my property with a Dwarf Coconut grove. So far, I have found five distinct dwarf cultivars to try. Interested to see what else is out in the world...I'm sure there are quite a few other dwarf varieties...looking to obtain some if anybody has fruiting specimens... :-) Golden Malay for example...

You've been watching too much X Files Richard!

Pitaya bud🤩

It’s around the full moon that’s the danger period for wild, unsupported theories in my area. Yours too apparently 🤣

I will, start to water it every day!

Good signs as the season starts ..of more to come, ....Hopefully.. A bit blurred n' wiggly, but, that's what happens when a surprise storm catches one off guard and they are minus a " temporarily displaced " tripod to camera plate. Regardless, for holding a camera as still as possible for 30 seconds on said tripod, repeatedly... not the worst of outcomes.. " Temporarily displaced " item relocated = less blur ...this storm a touch closer? would've been nice. ..that and continuing to spit out bolts rather than winding down as quickly as it flared.. 3AM Dreamtime Indigo Sky showers ...while the sleepy sleep.

The species can live happily IN WATER so you can’t over water yours. Water yours daily and even twice a day if the weather is very hot.

I saw either a Veitchia flower or a tree…or both…

Water, water, water!

I don't grow these palms in containers, my archontophoenix sp are in the ground. But they love water and this palm looks very dry. Water it consistently is my best suggestion.

What a great front areas this is.

This one looks good... Kelapa Pandan Wangi from Thailand

That's pretty swampy alright, those mud pigs are loving it! Must be paradise for Archontophoenix there.

I would wait for recovery, your area looks like it doesnt get these cold snaps often. I think your climate is similar to mine on the opposite(west) coast. They do better closer to the coast here. I am 15 miles inland and they took a beating this year around me. I didn't see any dead, just the lower half of the crowns were burnt to a crisp.

Spot on I think - most look bad because of neglect and not enough natural rainfall rather than it being too cold. Some of the better ones I’ve seen are out in the outer Eastern suburbs in the foothills of the Dandenongs where it gets pretty chilly but receives more rainfall than near the CBD or around Bayside suburbs. Same goes for Archontophoenix. I will say though, that Ravenea rivularis was susceptible to crown rot for me when young in Spring. It’s grown out of it now, but I suspected it didn’t like cold and wet conditions while it was still establishing. I planted in a cooler area of the garden in mostly shade intentionally based on what I’ve seen with specimens that dry out too much, but I think that’s the opposite risk when you go too shady and cold. The best one in Victoria I’ve seen is the one at Geelong Botanic Gardens. It gets morning sun but is well protected from all sides from wind and looks to stay quite moist in that area. There are a few mature specimens around Melbourne - this one down the street from my place looks pretty good. Doesn’t look like it gets extra attention but I assume the roots have tapped down deep now. The tree to its north must help with preventing it drying out too much too. I planted this one nearly 25 years ago. It’s the only survivor of about 5 originally planted in this garden. Soil is nearly pure beach sand and no irrigation. This is the result 🤣. And here’s an interesting planting - Singapore Botanic Gardens have them as aquatics. They like it in there in the tropical climate, but I’m certain it would be a death sentence in cooler climates.

Iguanura wallachiana , dypsis minuta!

You would be in luck if I was in the neighbourhood!

Congratulations! I know you've been in need of some land for so long! There were some people in Arizona on YouTube growing out fruit forests in the extreme heat. They were able to grow all kinds of cool things. Lots of wood chips and established canopy and you might be surprised what you can pull off.

So.... does anyone have backyard nurseries in Southern California? I cannot buy plants in Arizona as there are agriculture inspection stations when you enter the state so was hoping people in Southern California had backyard nurseries, since it's not very easy to find exotic palms in California.

Helpful but as Kyle observed, they do get frost in El Centro. Those 2 to 3 degrees F lower in December and January are averages. It is the lowest lows and their duration, as well as the duration of the highs that determine survival of sensitive plants at the margin. Good info all the same Jim.

Here are the averages for each city.

I suspect El Centro can get colder lows in winter than you have in Phoenix but I did immediately think you would have the best recommendations for Kyle for his climate. Given that many of the palms you mention are slow, no better time to start acquiring than now. Perhsps a shade cloth area for Kyle's backyard would be appropriate given the time of year. Kyle you may be better served acquiring from someone in Phoenix for plants already acclimated to heat. You can also throw in a few cycads that will add to the tropical vibe.

Bismarkia and White Triangle

Becarriopheonix handles the desert, many folks here in AZ have Royal palms they thrive in heat.

Here it is in July of 2002 ( Red arrow ) . And 2011 . Some , but not much fertilizer, and just enough supplemental watering to keep it going . Some leaf burning does occur during the worst of the Freezes , but ........

Here’s one of his rousellii from a couple years back..