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Plant em if you got them, the sooner you get your palms in the easier it is to grow them. I have no romanzifollia so that’s one less garden chore I have, but iam fearing the day my foxtails start seedling. Those things fill up a wheelbarrow full of seeds. It’s amazing what a little garden maintenance makes, my garden is so big I just start in any spot and start to clean it up, you just maintain the garden in one day it’s a continuous process. Going around and around constantly. Good luck with that cabbadae a nice palm tree. They are not a super slow growing palm so a few years you will have a bit of feature palm. Richard

Sabal minor, in all of its variants, are very adaptable. If you are planting them in the ground and providing them with plenty of water, they should be fine.

A very tall one that the leaf fell off in the earlier picture

Some more pictures. Some details of a fallen leaf and seedlings.

Most of my new plantings this year have been Livistona or Brahea, with a few Trithrinax mixed in. Most of those are good down to or below our record low of 20oF. There are a few things that performed unexpectedly well here in the yard that will be around until the next nasty freeze, but when they go, they'll either be replaced by something good to 20oF or just removed. Unfortunately, our Phoenix palms have been decimated by Lethal Bronzing. Fusarium wilt has been bad the last couple years, too.

Many thanks

I’d say it would almost be harder to grow them unsuccessfully than successfully. Very adaptable and hardy in just about every way. Have seen them thrive in genuinely cold places, hot and dry places and true equatorial tropical climates too. It’s a contender for the hardiest palm from a fully rounded perspective.

@IHB1979 Do you happen to know how high the wind speeds were in your area?

I lost my C.macrocarpa with 6’ of trunk, I had 27f the first night and 30 the second night. Crown rot and collapse within a month.

Please see below for more information. There is a discrepancy in regard to the time the sale ends between the flier and the communication that was sent. My approach would be to assume the doors close at 2PM and be pleasantly surprised if they close at 3PM instead.

Around 1000 Joeys!

I agree . Really not a problem in our garden . We’ve had a few for many years . When they start to get too close to a pathway , or too thick , it is time to divide and conquer . I even moved a small clump that I cut to a spot down the hill. It can go wild down there, lots of room and plenty of water and shade. It was in a pot and doing well when a frond fell and smashed it to bits. I took the poor thing down there and a few months later , growing well! They still get pretty good money for them in nurseries that have them. Harry

Will do , Richard! Not too bad today , 81f. Started out the day with a Syagrus R. flower that HAD TO BE CUT DOWN . I was 20’ up with a pole mounted chain saw …..THUD! It hit the ground , just missing an Archontophoenix palm I planted a few years ago . “ Whew , that was close!” Then I hear Richard say ,, “you better get that Cabadae in the ground” . Righto ! Will do! I call this westerly portion of our garden “ Dypsis Avenue” . Perfect for the wee Dypsis / Chrysalidiocarpus I’ve been adopting lately. Harry So I will share your What’s getting planted thread with you! Harry

An interesting experiment. I didn't try to induce new heads, but got them on an Encephalartos where cones had previously emerged. The cones must have induced the new growth points but it also continues to grow from it's original main growth point. It had 3 cones together and 2 of those 3 subsequently became growth points. The third may eventually become a new growth point too. The main caudex has flushed and coned several times in the intervening years but it hasn't done this again. It has pushed many subterranean pups though.

Gene was correct that my Encephalartos munchii is a male. The peduncle on the cone that is beginning to open is about 7 inches long. If you get a female someday and need pollen, you can check with me.

I was looking at some rainforest in north qld the other day and spotted these palms. Lots of purple on these ones.

I’m waiting for my Rhapis to become problem children. I like the thick look of a hedge of them. But when they want to start spreading I’m just going to pot up the suckers and plant elsewhere or on sell em. Problem solved.

I actually love the foxtail palm. I just wish I could grow a good one. I could get one to survive but it would never be happy in my cool climate. I really enjoyed germinating them too. There’s nothing wrong with a good foxtail palm. I love the foxtail. Everyone went nuts over them 30 to 40 years ago for a good reason. Now Normanbya are truly beautiful too but a notch or two more difficult to grow in a cool subtropical or less climate. They need the warm subtropics minimum to a truly tropical climate to be happy. You can get one to survive in a cooler climate, but they will be pencil thin. I was growing them in Perth which was fine in summer but too cool in winter. They’d never get to be the big bulky dimensions in a cool climate that they get to in North QLD.

Tabebuia, typically at least, = tend to be evergreen/ semi- deciduous, and have leaves that tend to be thicker and have a smooth leaf margin. Seedpods often look like this when they open T. rosea T. heterophylla ** Credit: Images from iNat observations. Handroanthus = ..more often than not at least.. have thinner leaves that exhibit some degree of serration on the leaf margin ( leaf edge looks like a saw blade ) or a rough, sandpaper - like / fuzzy texture ( Common, yellow flowered sps like H. chrysanthus, chrysotrichus, and umbellatus esp. ) Many, < but not all > have seedpods that are fuzzy or have some deg of texture to them.. When they open, there is no central membrane that the seed is attached to, like you see in Tabebuia. That said, here's where things get ...confusing, lol.. While preferred habitat may be different, natural range of Handroanthus impetiginosus ..and.. heptaphyllus, which looks almost exactly like impetiginosus, overlap in part of South America. Impetiginosus' range extends north to the foothills east of Hermosillo. Heptaphyllus' range is restricted to where it occurs in South America. When impetiginosus was brought into the Hort. trade, it is quite likely seed of the other sp. ...or a naturally occurring cross between... were ( accidentally? ) collected / propagated / distributed. Adding to the confusion, both sps. can have leaves that are smooth or serrated, though the leaves of impetiginosus supposedly lean smoother, overall.. Flowers / seedpods look the same / aren't easy to tell apart w/ out looking at them under a microscope. While still somewhat new to our market, after decades of being planted all over FL and southern CA, it's highly possible trees seen here, that originally came from seed grown from specimens in CA or FL are ...something of a mix between ..rather than pure species specimens.. A hypothesis?, yes, but, if you look around at planted specimens, you'll see some obvious differences in leaf size / and deg. of leaf margin smoothness vs. serration. You also see variation of general growth rate / how much /long each tree flowers compared to others planted nearby. That could account for what your tree is doing / it's " weird -ness ". The one i have came from a nursery in Tucson. Not too long ago, someone mentioned that seed of their specimen ( which mine came from ) originated in California.. I myself aren't so sure, mainly because the leaves are much smaller than the big - leaved specimens i see in nurseries / planted out up here. growing it in a pot probably limits leaf size but, Overall size is much different as well. One in Tucson ..been in the ground at the nursery for ..at least.. 12 years.. Is no taller than about 12-15ft atm., vs. specimens you see in local nurseries / specimens planted at Civic Center Plaza in Scottsdale / others i've seen planted locally which are much larger. Leaf size is different as well ( Smaller on the Tucson specimen ) The smaller size of the Tucson specimen fits the description of impetiginosus specimens from Sonora, which " tend to be smaller than specimens from Central or South America " I really wish i could get my hands on fresh seed off wild specimens from Sonora to grow out and compare mine to, to see which one is the " true " impetiginosus. Anyway, regardless of whether or not yours is a true impetiginosus ..or a cross w/ it's cousin.. it's a great tree.. There are also white flowered specimens of both sps, and crosses between ..one of them.. and one of the common, yellow- flowered Handroanthus sps that would be a neat find, if you can locate them. Tabebuia aurea, and heterophylla are also worth looking for since both should be able to handle our winters pretty well / will take some heat. Since our flavor of it is tough on ..pretty much anything..., not sure how well they'd tolerate full sun here, esp. when smaller though.

Wodyetia is the second most popular palm we sell at the nursery where I work in Venice FL, behind Adonidia merrilii. We sell a lot of Dypsis lutescens and Hyophorbe too both bottles and spindles. Not much else in stock besides fishtails, coconuts, cat palms, lady palms etc. I was excited to recently get Alexander palms too. When I began working there 11 years ago we had some cool stuff like Dypsis Cabadae and Phoenix loureirii. But we have a new guy ordering and he doesn’t seem to want to go beyond the usual suspects. Speaking of beer I’m from Queensland and I sure could use a slab of 4X. Meanwhile it’s Landshark…and very rarely a tinny of Fosters ale, the green can. 🍻churrs mate 🦘

You can grow “10A” palms here but they really need to be fast growers to have a chance long term because of all the freezes/frosts and hurricanes. They need to grow fast, recover and be ready for the next calamity. C.macrocarpa might be a little too slow for them climate here unfortunately…

Another one

Wodyetia is so popular here because it actually grows well enough here to look good, is plumose pinnate crown shafted and is self cleaning. It has taken the queen palm’s place. Queen palm’s die from disease here. So do most Phoenix species. In my very marginal 9B/10A humid subtropical climate, Wodyetia does better than most other crown shafted alternatives. Yes, Roystonea is very close to being native here and does great too and I do have one and only ONE because one dropped frond cut up more than fills a standard sized trash bin. Roystonea is a much, much larger palm than Wodyetia. Wodyetia is actually more frond hardy in a freeze/frost than Roystonea but Roystonea wins the ultimate cold temp death match. All palms have pros and cons. I’ve come to realize that maintenance is huge as palms mature. Wodyetia seeds like a beast in my yard. Cool at first, but those seeds are like golf balls and weigh a ton… So why are they so popular? Beautiful, cheap, hardy and mostly easy to maintain. What’s not to like?

You have nailed it. We grow a Wodyetia here because we can not grow a Normanbya, latter dies fast due to the lack of needed air moisture during summer.

Frustrating for sure but luckily they didn’t cost me anything. I got them for $10 each as 3 gallons. They sat in pots for a couple years before I finally figured out what to do with them. Unfortunately, after all that time and care…the super mega freeze hits. I had Canaries before but I’m not a big fan of thorny, spiny palms anymore. I have Roebeleniis and I love the look but the clean up is always painful. Another one is my Copernicia Hospita. It’s growing again and looking like a survivor but it’s covered with thorns similar to a rose but with a hook.

Hey Ben, I was at the SABG on July 14th and this is how the Livistona chinensis looks. Still showing damage from the freezing rain (and the cold) we had back in February. I was at the River Walk this past weekend and those still looked pretty good! I noticed that thee were three Queens remaining as well. Sadly two of them are zombie palms as the growing points were killed despite still having some green fronds. One Queen right next to the buildings survived. I am really happy with how my Robusta’s are looking this summer! They have really grown well and have such deep glossy green fronds. I’m going to enjoy them while they are still small. At some point, years from now, hopefully they’ll be as large as these two near the Pearl:

My guess is the lighting. Copernicias LOVE lots of full blazing hot sun. Yours looks like its in filtered light.

I guess Iam pretty lucky then to have both growing in my area, fosteriana practically everywhere along the coast, and if you know where to look bellmooreana are out there, so much all you have to do is knock the door and they are giving the seeds away if you ask. The bellmooreana are such a lovely palm far better then the fosteriana in my opinion, and are beautiful looking seedling.

Here are a few cycas currently flushing around the garden. Cycas maconochiei Cycas siamensis. I grew this from seed I got about 20 years ago. A Cycas siamensis “dwarf” in the foreground that was flushing and got smashed by a Bismarkia palm frond from a storm that passed through a few night ago. In the background is another Cycas siamensis flushing. Cycas revoluta was pretty common around here until a few years ago. Scale has killed off most of them but I’ve been able to keep this one in check. It seems to like my soil prep area.

This Cycas is now hardening the flush I posted a few weeks back. The leaflets don't start until about 5 feet up the rachis.

Encephalartos Kisambo flush progressing nicely

Nice Cycas Thouarsii flush getting photo bombed by Zamia Furfuracea flushes. I planted these at a property I do the landscaping on in Pacific Beach.

Bp x pjc hitting its stride.

update, the(BxJ)xJ went into the ground in 2024(?) before milton hit. Its doing well and just starting to put out longer leaves and more of them each year. It has had Little to no feeding and a sparing use of water in the area. Its a tad over 6' tall now. I like the symmetry of the leaves compared with my BxJ. The even spacing of the leaflets reminds me a little of my cuban copernicias.

I have 5 decent sized mules that all saw 13F this past winter unprotected. 1 had to be trunk cut but recovered. 1 had spear rot but pushed it out with a little peroxide help 3 were basically unfazed