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Yes. Most of my palms continue growth during the winter and being well fed during the cooler time of the year is much healthier than being undernourished. A well fed palm will endure cold periods much better than one starved of nutrients. In my climate, there’s really no good reason to hold off feeding a slow release fertilizer going into winter.

Paul, It’s been warmer down here and I haven’t watered since the November rains. The ground is still very moist as relative humidity levels have remained high. Looks like the weather will remain pretty much the same for another two weeks before rains return so I’ll probably hand water a few plants that are in the sunniest warmest parts of my yard in a few days. With your chillier temps, I’d guess your soil is still holding a lot of moisture.

The bills are always going to be there, paid or not paid. But that grandis won’t be, and a Thai constellation for that price a bargain, they are still ripping us off down here and we don’t ever get grandis and as for Thai constellation $110 to $90 bucks! Richard

Socratea stilt roots. Tim

It was great to see @PalmJuan @CodyM @aabell @PalmBossTampa @SubTropicRay @ChristianStAug @Creekside @Steve the palmreader @TaylorPlantHunter @sarasota alex @cycadjungle and @kinzyjr! A short meeting recap is published here: 20251206_HolidayMeeting_recap.pdf We look forward to seeing everyone who can make it to Plantae-palooza 2026!

That depends on the forecast day temperatures and how full the moon is, for winter watering if a risk of frost try to avoid container waterings, try to pick a higher than average day temperatures to water your plants. Palms dislike cool feet in winter and the same us humans. If a full moon is approaching then you will get colder temperatures around that time along with the risk of frost. I try not to water in winter as much as possible, letting the rains do that job for the ground and containers. Maybe twice throughout winter I may water my containers, with temperature lows as 2 degrees celsius I try to avoid watering, if you do have to water in winter do it around 9 or 10 o’clock do it has time to dry out a little before the cool night air. So temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius I avoid watering.

I like to brainstorm traits for hybridization too, BUT we also have to consider the age of this palm. The popularity of hybrids in this genus were likely related to date palm production and this doesn’t look Dactylifera at all to me. I think it’s just a very old Canary Island Date Palm. Ive seen soooo many old CIDP in Central and south FL and they vary in characteristic very much but the dense fibrous old leaf bases are the tell and trunk scar pattern showing slower growth rate compared to the others. Just my thoughts though like everyone else’s just a guess from fuzzy pic

PalmGain is slow release.

I got some Butia catarinensis × Syagrus romanzoffiana sprouting, 105 days in .

Well done, Peachy, I am gratified that you have the correct priorities !!

First flower on Chrysalidocarpus “Orange Crush”:

NOTin my climate. I have made it already clear in my post.

Very good question! Perfect supplement to my reply right above... On a side note this palms looks like suffering from chronic nutritional deficiency and it is also uncertain, whether it receives adequate water. Both factors may affect frond size though!

I would wait as long as he can while maintaining the root health and vigor. Mine certainly have gained a good amount of cool tolerance from age. If I could redo things I would have given every coconut another year in a pot so that they aren’t unnecessarily set back by a specific storm or two. These last two days got down to 50/49f here and I see no damage(except the yellow one🫨) . Last year that would have left a mark for sure. Similarly one of my three coconuts is still growing at summer speed right now but last year all three were virtually 100% paused since November. So I vote wait until the roots are bursting out the pot haha

I appreciate your interest, but in the last two weeks, these are now all sold.

Hello all! I have created a high-resolution USDA Plant Hardiness Zones map for Greece, based on climate data from the period 2006-2025. The aim of this work was to create the most detailed depiction of hardiness zones, utilizing modern geospatial analysis techniques to capture the complex geomorphology of the Greek territory. Methodology & Data: Primary Data: The analysis was based on annual minimum temperatures from the meteorological station networks of NOA, HNMS and selected stations from reliable networks with strict operating standards (IMS). Geospatial Analysis: A combination of Multivariate Regression and Spatial Interpolation (Regression-Kriging) was used. The model factored in latitude, distance from the sea, and altitude. Digital Elevation Model (DEM): A high-definition DEM (~300m) was applied for the precise application of the Lapse Rate. This allowed for the separation of warm coastal zones from colder hinterlands at the pixel level, highlighting microclimates lost in previous approaches. Results & Observations: The map clearly depicts the range of zones, from the cold Zone 6a in the mountains, to Zone 11a (>4.4°C). Of particular interest is the spatial distribution of Zone 11a, which was identified based on the data: In the Dodecanese (Extensively in Rhodes, as well as in Kasos, Karpathos, Kastellorizo). In Monemvasia, which constitutes the only location where Zone 11a appears on the mainland. Crete (Northern and Southern coasts) and Gavdos. Cyclades (Amorgos, Koufonisia, Sifnos). In Hydra, which represents a remarkable microclimate and constitutes the northernmost point of Zone 11a occurrence in the entire Mediterranean. See the map in full resolution in the attached file.

Hello all! I have created a high-resolution USDA Plant Hardiness Zones map for Greece, based on climate data from the period 2006-2025. The aim of this work was to create the most detailed depiction of hardiness zones, utilizing modern geospatial analysis techniques to capture the complex geomorphology of the Greek territory. Methodology & Data: Primary Data: The analysis was based on annual minimum temperatures from the meteorological station networks of NOA, HNMS and selected stations from reliable networks with strict operating standards (IMS). Geospatial Analysis: A combination of Multivariate Regression and Spatial Interpolation (Regression-Kriging) was used. The model factored in latitude, distance from the sea, and altitude. Digital Elevation Model (DEM): A high-definition DEM (~300m) was applied for the precise application of the Lapse Rate. This allowed for the separation of warm coastal zones from colder hinterlands at the pixel level, highlighting microclimates lost in previous approaches. Results & Observations: The map clearly depicts the range of zones, from the cold Zone 6a in the mountains, to Zone 11a (>4.4°C). Of particular interest is the spatial distribution of Zone 11a, which was identified based on the data: In the Dodecanese (Extensively in Rhodes, as well as in Kasos, Karpathos, Kastellorizo). In Monemvasia, which constitutes the only location where Zone 11a appears on the mainland. Crete (Northern and Southern coasts) and Gavdos. Cyclades (Amorgos, Koufonisia, Sifnos). In Hydra, which represents a remarkable microclimate and constitutes the northernmost point of Zone 11a occurrence in the entire Mediterranean. See the map in full resolution in the attached file.

I didn't get pics, but I'll upload a YouTube tomorrow from the hospital's WiFi - but a) more spider mites and b) my store bought mangos are sprouting! Now that I'm learning everything needs to be treated differently ----- my horizons are broadening.

Here are a few Encephalartos flushing around the garden. I always love the way this longifolius flushes with recurved leafs This lehmannii is a thin leaf variety Last up is aemulans or what I believe to be aemulans. I lost the tags but did germinate aemulans seeds and it seems to match the description.

From what I've seen in my area over 25 years is, that every T.fortunei (or Waggie) is cold-hardy at 10°F. At 5°F, 20% are untouched, 60% show varying amount of damage, and 20% have catastrophic damage or death. We don't have enough palmetto up this way to measure. The few I've seen saw leaf tip burn at 5°F but nothing catastrophic.

It is pushing those bricks out pretty badly. I have really only left them to protect the trunk from the weed trimmer. It is big enough now though that the leaf bases would be plenty of protection.

Not a problem with doing that, it should work fine. The only real danger besides apart from accidentally cutting into another trunk is when they start to rot away you may risk a fungal infection, but highly unlikely. Cut away a few years time you won’t even know you cut the other’s away.

Looking at the data for the last several days, even with the cold weather we've been having, daily evapo-transpiration is running at 0.04" per day, so that would still get to 0.5" in about 16 days.

Think it’s a h good question for the main forum rather than climate. My short answer would be yes, there’s definitely a temperate below which I just would water. The long answer would be I think it’s species dependent and also on a variety of other factors; soil type, natural rainfall, whether it has been windy etc etc. The temperatures you’re getting now are similar to what I’d get in winter during a chilly spell and I’m reluctant to water anything at those times. That being said, all the species you’ve mentioned are difficult to overwater. I still probably wouldn’t bother unless you’re getting weeks in a row without rain at those temps. Could you dig down to see how the soil feels below the surface?

Just a handful of local pics from yesterday. Nice robusta at the San Antonio Zoo: A little coconut still hanging in there in December, also at the zoo. I liked this pair of S. mexicana on the river at The Pearl. I thought the people in the shot help demonstrate the scale. At my own house this morning, I caught a tenant living in my Washingtonia. This Washingtonia continues to grow at a rapid pace. Here it was when planted late in May of 2024: In October 2024: May 2025: And today:

Why not consider this within the genetic trait range for CIDP ? We expect the stereotypical dimensions too often and fullness of canopy. Are there any small shoots beneath? They wouldn’t be seedlings if the other gender isnt nearby so maybe a cross. Very old palm regardless and good genetics for that climate.

Have been to busy to walk the jungle finally got some time and found these fronds!!!

Correct. Just like the Kentias. The Pananama Talls are the opposite so far. Maybe because they were barely germinated when I received them, I don't know.

Good point. Some do. But they have no idea how strong the sun can get around here. The Malayan dwarfs seem to love the sun about as much as kentias do.

Greece is home to large numbers of feral cats and can be a real nuicance. To decrease the nuisance, you feed a couple and they will keep the others away. One of the ones I kept around had decided my 2 year old potted cocos made a great litter box. He managed to kill one. "Albert" now lives at an all inclusive hotel about 40 km from here.

Spanky is getting ready to drop one, right above the BBQ grill.

I'm very curious about the differences/similarities per badge over time! Lets find out

Time to pot up a few kerriodoxa seedlings, and to my surprise some trachycarpus sitjong seeds have germinated on the potting bench, I usually reuse the germination medium and just tip it out on the potting bench to recycle it. These are so lucky little sitjongs, just never give up on some seeds you just never know what will come up! And with the warm weather time to start potting up some tropicals.

All of the Greeks are insisting I put mine in the ground but I have been putting it off. The big advantage of not doing so is I can move my cocos into the shade for the summer. The Malayan dwarfs I've managed to get through the winter have been killed of by cats or intense summer sun. Now that I have a couple Panama Talls, I am becoming far more optimistic. They have taken the summer heat quite well and still look perfect. The Panama Talls are the smaller ones.

I posted this elsewhere on the forum, but this S. weddelliana arrived on Wednesday. Just noticed that it has three flower spikes coming out…I think!

How would mixing two species with long fronds produce one with such a short, compact crown?

Beatiful palm, and already flowering!

Than, don't be embarrassed. The only embarrassing trait is lack of curiosity.

We had mobile phone warnings of 40mm severe weather and rain last night. Not sure if we got that much but we sure did get a lot. A large and well established Phoenix dactylifera in the center was snapped in three places and a cruise ship, attached to the dock, had its' ropes snapped and was left drifting in the sea. Nice and sunny now with 21 degrees. The rain now is much less frequent. If we have no rain, the temperatures are always quite pleasant and very cocos-friendly. I plan on putting my dwarf (the larger one) in the ground next year and probably one of the panama talls. Those panama talls seem to be quite tough.

Hey everyone a friend that lives nearby just snapped these photos of the Santa Ana coconut. Looks amazing and getting so much trunk

Oenocarpus distichus is getting big. Rocky 2 and Suubi stayed still long enough to provide some scale.

Parajubaea torallyi underneath a Japanese Maple.

Sorry for the delay - was travelling again. These are my three coconut palms - larger one is a malayan dwarf and the smaller two are Panama Talls I imported from Florida.

Butia diamantinensis is my first to sprout, 86 days in.

Copernicia rigida -7 gallon size- $200. Ready to plant or put in larger pot. Needs Full Sun. Located in Satellite Beach. Beachpalms@cfl.rr.com

I just picked up my 3rd Butia Oderata that I'm going to plant sometime in February next year. This became one of my favorite cold hardy pinnate palm. I see lots of them along the Gulf Coast and in a way smaller number here in San Antonio. They do great in my area. They love the Houston black clay soil.

I'd wait until Spring as they are still establishing. Winters are typically the hardest on these palms. If you want to do an educated gamble, try planting mid February if the 2 week forecast is frost-free. We tend to get our harshest stuff Jan-Feb.

……another year down. Not too much different look, just larger scale. Still healthy and nice coloring. -dale

However, my dwarf has really taken off since I fertilized it last Sunday and watered it through the week - plus we had >25C on most of those days. This emerging leaf was not visible a week ago.