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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2025 in all areas
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In this weeks Xmas special we have the final purchases until the new year, as we all know Santa clause is coming to town. This week we have the highly ornamental Geonoma atrovirens from the Amazon foothills of the Andes, so a nice cool tolerant palm forvthe subtropical climate. Then a beautiful Draceana Mozambique a new unknown Draceana and most likely rare in cultivation. The we have a lovely Gardena reginifera a complete unknown to me as well but iam sure it will have a lovely perfumed smelling flower. Then we have beautiful little licuala triphylla that is in flower so they will be a welcome addition to the happypalms collection. Then there is this Pinanga sarawakensis that is kind of lost for its true identity that may be of Thai origin according to the seller. Now we just duck over to the Malay peninsula for a lovely licuala mustapana that has a bit of cool tolerance and that’s a welcome bonus for the southern growers. And we also have a Zamia variegata on tonight’s show that is one for a bit of colour around the garden. But the show stopper is the Calyptrogyne ghiesbreghtiana another beautiful bifid palm from Costa Rica and this form comes from around 1000 metres altitude so again another cool tolerant palm that iam sure those southern growers should consider growing. And finally to finish of tonight’s show a beautiful iguanura sanderiana/paddle leaf type that had it’s original label lost in the notes from the seller, a true collectors palm this one. So Santa clause has been good to happypalms with most of his wish list fulfilled. So a merry Xmas to all from happypalms!3 points
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You can thank @kinzyjr he’s the genius behind this one, I grow palms and iam far from being a computer genius. And thanks for him doing so I have no idea about computers!3 points
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If you're in the Tule fog, your humidity and dewpoints are going to be at saturation, so why would you irrigate? Virtually all of your plants (including palms) are likely to have fully open stomata in these conditions and are surely gorging themselves on the atmospheric moisture in addition to what they can harvest from your soil moisture. And of course your soil-structure/composition is all important in figuring this out in your situation once your humidity and dewpoints decrease. I'm sure your Rhopies would be just fine with irrigation since it's plenty chilly and wet where they come from, but IMHO it would just be a waste of your $$$ to do it, particularly if they're established. I agree with what Tom Blank says above, and will add anecdotally that I lived on Big Pine Key in the hot, hot Florida Keys with very little rainfall for months at a time and brutal tropical sun bearing down, particularly in springtime with few clouds and near-zero rain. On a limestone rock, basically. And very different from Miami and much of mainland Florida, where there is land and convection to make rainfall, the Keys have nothing really to generate any rain on their own. And yet they are covered in vegetation. The Lower Keys have a freshwater lens that plants can tap into (it was about 3' deep at our house) if their roots can reach, but I had many plants--containerized, planted or native--that just survived almost entirely on the perpetually high humidity and the occasional bit of rainfall for all that time. And in the upper Keys (e.g., Islamorada and Key Largo) there isn't any groundwater, and yet plants survive there as well during the dry season. Many parts of the world have similar situations where there isn't much regular rainfall, and yet plants can do just fine using whatever atmospheric or soil-based resources are at hand, through drought and deluge. I now find myself in the Palm Springs area, where it is much, much drier in winter than either Florida or the Central Valley of California where you are, and palms here are generally still growing albeit at a very slow pace, I reduce irrigation markedly for the cool season, but don't turn it off completely. I factor in, additional to simple observation and past experience, the individual needs/metabolism and stress-tolerances of the plant; soil composition/structure (our porous sand and DG/granitic alluvium); sun/shade exposure and positioning; our low atmospheric humidity, in which water transpires out so very quickly; and the level of establishment of the plants (in my garden usually about three years for most plants to establish a far-ranging root-system). I change cool-season distribution of irrigation to one-minute spurts late morning and very early afternoon where solar warmth is still incoming (and always water containerized plants about 10-11am for that reason)...I avoid any late-day irrigation, which will likely deliver quite an unhealthy, wet chill to the roots of any tropical lowland plants. You'll of course have a very different situation where you are in Fresno, but this just to illustrate that I think all of the above factors have to be considered by anyone in delivering the right amount of irrigation, always keeping in mind the often very diverse native climes from which our garden plants originate.3 points
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Richard, in a few years your big garden will have all the species you can grow ! To be honest, I'm a little jealous (in the good sense, you know how much I love you), because you can grow many more species than me.2 points
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I thought it may have been grower mistake, I get a batch of seeds that need cool temperatures to germinate, and i ask the cold climate growers, you learn as you grow, licuala seeds like scarification, licuala triphylla love constant high temperatures, Howea not so around 22 degrees Celsius for those ones. It’s alll a learning curve and the great thing about this forum we all learn from other growers! Richard2 points
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I am in Fresno, but we're under that dreaded tule fog at the moment. Haven't seen the sun since that last rain in November just prior to Thanksgiving. Just fog all day long. My soil is still wet and my palms look good, so I probably won't be irrigating unless we go another month without rain and I notice the soil becomes too dry.2 points
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I have one growing in full sun and I love it. It is perhaps my favorite Sabal in the garden, because it looks quite different from the rest. Unfortunately not very resistant to wind but even so it retains an interesting figure. In a worrying incident during past warm season it had its youngest fully developed frond dried out almost up to half the length of its petiole and further growth stalled. This has signaled a loud alarm in my mind, because it could be a symptom of rhizoctonia, which had killed many other smaller Sabal specimens around with similar initial symptoms. So I had to resort to very radical measures, I had nothing to lose anyway. I drenched the soil around the plant with 10 lt water containing 400 gr tolclofos-methyl. This is a horrific amount of fungicide. But no other young frond has died ever since and plant was growing all summer long at snail's pace but it was growing nonetheless! As weather has progressively cooled up and rainfalls started, plant has taken off and a huge new leaf has unfolded.2 points
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My favorite Sabal as well. Unfortunately the gophers liked “Marty” enough to make a meal of it. 🙁 Harry2 points
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No customs charges are applicable. If VAT - charged on both purchase price and shipping are not paid up front that is all you would need to pay for importation.1 point
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Was thinking about your garden today and realized I haven't seen a post from you in a very long time. Everything alright? How did the palms do with the snow? And, how are you doing yourself?1 point
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Pity you can’t make a meal out of the gophers 🤣But yes one nice palm! Richard1 point
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Hands down my favorite Sabal. In my opinion you did it right by planting it in the shade. To me they look the best when shade stretched.1 point
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Paul, I have irrigated 12 months per year for many years, sometimes for dryness, and sometimes as a political statement. I would urge all California growers to read a book called "Cadillac Desert".1 point
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I am convinced the right season is the most important factor for reproducing plants, especially by cuttings. When actively growing, any plant is more willing to produce new roots. I also use the rooting hormones, and for me it makes a lot of difference. Never have experimented with bottom heat. Good luck!1 point
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I went on my first trip to Rome and was surprised just how palmy Italy is. Dates, Chinese fan palms, California and Mexican fan palms were very common in the landscape. As well as the more native Mediterranean fan palms. Some trachycarpus as well! I was also surprised to discover how common Kentia palms were as houseplants since their cultivation in Dutch nurseries has made them much more popular and affordable houseplants in Europe.1 point
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I visited Harry P Leu garden today and i spotted 4 Tahina palms. Two were beneath the Bismarck palm mentioned earlier in the thread. There’s another nearby hidden by some large traveler ‘palms’ and the fourth in to the west of the garden closer to the bamboos So glad to see them and imagine they’ll squeeze out the width that they need over time. In the meantime the crowded conditions offer some additional cold protection1 point
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I agree. Serenoa hate pots and want to be in the ground. But, hey, they are worth trying if you don't break the bank. Just report back to us so we all learn something1 point
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I wish. I should have mentioned. that FL has a serious problem with people trespassing onto parks, restricted wildlife areas and private property to poach Serenoa seeds to sell to seed peddlers and prostate medicine manufacturers. I've had my saw palmettos stripped of their seeds overnight. It's illegal of course but you have to catch them in their vans full of pickers. Seeds ripen July/Aug. in my part of FL. If someone asked for seeds politely I would probably give them some, but no one asks; they just steal. This larceny is interfering with reproductive. wild Serenoa and endangering whole populations of this native palm. So, be careful if you go looking or you will be cited and your haul seized if you pick a wrong location.1 point
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You may not find out until you try it. You will need a deep pot with adequate drainage holes, loose coarse potting mix, no black, mucky houseplant soil or top soil. They like heat, can take full sun and are relatively drought tolerant. They also cluster. In habitat in FL they often grow in alkaline soil. Fertilize & water sparingly during spring/summer. When outdoor lows stay above freezing best put them outside until fall lows fall below freezing. They need outdoor time in warm weather. I'm not sure but I believe they don't like long term pot culture so be very careful when repotting. In the wild trying to transplant wild Serenoa almost always results in death of palm because the act of digging fatally damages the underground growing points of the stem. I suggest you try green Serenoa to start. I've found the blue/silver Serena are much less robust than green. I've lost the majority of silver Serenoa I've grown1 point
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Hai To the best of my knowledge goes,it seem to be much slower in growth rate compared to the standard form of CIDP.But the leaf fronds are not arching as beautiful as seen in CIDP's.The leaves resembles very closely to a regular Phoenix Sylvestris palm.And since this red fruticas Cipd has Phoenix Dactylifera blood line in it.Its bound to be a slow grower. And since our house garden does not get full sunlight but semi shade the grouth rate of these palms are much slower..Now its raining,Once we are in our early summer season,i will post new stills and if possible you-tube videos of those phoenix palms. And wish you all the best with your CIDP... Lots of love, kris1 point
