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Out in the scrub again running around. Getting in a swim before winter gets here, and as usual bangalows in the wet areas and creek beds. Such a tough palm, but they do like moisture. Even there native habitat some of the leaves can look a bit tatty. So if your plants need is not perfect fear not even in habitat they can appear a bit tatty.

Allogoptera caudescens opening a new leaf is such an attractive sight.

Thought I’d ‘bump’ this topic and add a few recent progression photos. This Lemur has really grown in the last few years and is such a magnificent palm. In one of the overall shots there is a shovel with an orange handle for scale. Tim

Just my self indulgent contribution to this thread - I’m pretty proud of this one. Comments above are correct. These are tolerant of cool and even occasional cold nights. Mind in Melb, Aus occasionally has frost settle on the fronds with temps down to -1.5C /29F. Last winter we had about 10 frosts with temps at or below 2C/36F and the monthly average minimum temperature during the coldest month was barely above 5C/41F. Only minor cold spotting as a result. It’s also seen a few days up around 44C / 111F with very low humidity this summer and shown no ill effects to occasional exposure to these conditions. Our night times nearly always cool down significantly which may help. For reference, this one is in an east facing garden. It gets filtered morning sun until about midday. Happy to have this one growing here. There aren’t many palms that can grow here with those huge pinnate leaflets divided at random which just appears so tropical like in many Pinanga and Areca sp.

Need some Cold Hardy seedlings after the Freezing weather? My large palms in yard took 27F with ease, no damage. I counted about 37 seedlings in this pot, most have 2 leaves. $30 plus Shipping, Spaghum, Box, etc. Beachpalms@cfl.rr.com

Paul, I’d get it in the ground right away. These palms grow continuously here during the coolest part of winter so should do well for you there. Of my twelve flamethrower palms, six of them produced new red fronds between December and February. If your new one has been in sun or partial sun since before your purchase, it should be fine in the spot you’ve chosen. If you want to play it safe, you can drape some shade cloth over the palm while it’s settling in.

Just planted - 4/3/2024 ~1 year - 3/18/2025 8 AM ~2 years - 3/20/2026 8 AM

You learn to know you’re garden, and you’re garden knows who you are!

Recently I visited the Botanical garden of Rome and could observe the Nannorhops ritchiana. I thought it would deserve a video (actually two to get the single whole plant). Enjoy

Mine has grown really well throughout our summer despite multiple days of extreme heat. Mine gets filtered light for most of the day; it’s on the south edge of a south facing garden (southern hemisphere) so larger palms in the garden give it a degree of protection but definitely does see at least brief periods of direct sun throughout the day.

Thanks to all! The deed is done. It was still rocking around on those roots a little more than I'd like so I staked it at the base. It gets pretty windy around here in spring. Let the burn begin!

Finally seeing some early signs of spring blooms on my Handroanthus (aka Tabebuia), both the dark pink heptaphyllus and the lighter pink impetiginosus.) Even my previously shy blooming Bauhinia x blakeana now has clusters of buds on many of its branch tips. Despite what the winter was like on East Coast of the U.S., here in the West we experienced "relatively" mild temps. It's so dry I've had to start handwatering again! Palms in the top image are Parajubaea (l) and Jubaea (R).

Never a dull moment in the garden with a dypsis louvelli and a Chambeyronia hookerii for a touch of colour.

Reinhardtia latisecta. Tim

Iam lucky enough to have small plumosa in flower at eye height, making for a few close ups normally done a ladder.

Rolled past these beauties again over the weekend

Some 🔥 in the garden recently. Dypsis rosea Chambeyronia divaricata

Here are some of mine. They all look remarkably decent for coming out of winter, though the winter was pretty warm. If I get the order here correct, the first one is the standard form, seed collected from Hawaii, probably seven years ago. The second one is var rubrum, which is really beginning to look pretty darn nice. It’s about head high. The last one is a small conjugatum/furfuraceum which is slower than slow, but pretty darn tough too. Never cold spots. Definitely seems to be the most attractive of an already attractive genus when it gets bigger. Beautiful palms, especially in the tropics.

Here is our latest acquisition, a C. macrocarpa brought from SoCal through the efforts of @Darold Petty and Keith Jaeger (thanks to you both!), in roughly its eventual planting location, full sun much of the day. It's our biggest $75 palm ever and I'm super happy with it. Of course I'm eager to plant it, but normally I would acclimate it in part shade for a month or so. But I'm considering planting it out sooner, for these reasons: It's generally healthy, but it looks like a plant that just endured a 400 mile trip in the back of a U-Haul during our hottest March heat wave in history. It's way overgrown for its 5 gallon pot. During transport, a lot of soil spilled out and the top 3" or so of bare root was exposed. I topped it off and have been watering heavily, but as you can see, there is still a lot of exposed root. Absent a heat wave, the sun isn't that scorching here. It's sunny and 65° today, and it's supposed to stay that way for a while. What does the group think? Plant out now or not? Or, perhaps, transfer it to a bigger container? TIA for all advice.

I just found one in my neighborhood and knocked on the door to ask permission to take a picture. I ended up leaving with a huge cutting.

This little Ceroxylon amazonicum endured a lot of stress to get to California eventually! I ordered it in 2025 directly from an Ecuadorian nursery. It ended up in Florida quarantine for weeks, then arrived in California bare-root, half-dead and bone-dry! I tented it in plastic and kept it in standing water for weeks. It's now putting out its second leaf. I've not had much success with this species in the past, but I'm trying again. This palm hates heat waves, so I'll probably keep it indoors in a pot for the future. Eventually it may end up at a Bay Area botanical garden like the C. sasaimae seedlings I grew in the past.

Though this Feb freeze was the coldest around Orlando since the 12/89 freeze it was no where near as bad. For those who weren't here or forgot, some examples of what happened to "hardy" palms in 12/89...(2 nights at 19-20F, the hi in between barely reaching 32F so duration was extreme and 1-2 nights after in the upper 20s) Acrocomia aculeata- killed Acrocomia totai- severe burn Arenga engleri (a few around)- severe foliage damage, some stems killed back X Butyagrus nabonnandii- varied from no damage to severe burn Chamaedorea microspadix- some leaf burn Livistona chinensis- had burned foliage Livistona australis- some foliage burn Livistona decora ( a few were around)- severe foliage burn Phoenix canariensis- some foliage burn on some specimens Phoenix sylvestris- some burned leaves Phoenix reclinata (non hybrid)- dead or killed to the roots Phoenix roebelenii- almost were killed (many had perished in 83 and 85) Phoenix rupicola- most had died in 83 or 85, if not 89 killed them (one survived in Epcot , planted in 1984 and some by Pirates of the Caribbean planted back in the 70s, but very protected microclimates, the Epcot specimen is still there with a constriction in the trunk marking 89) Rhapis excelsa- most killed to the roots Syagrus romanzoffiana- most were killed if they had survived 83 and 85, the robust/southern Brazil forms survived Washingtonia robusta- burned foliage tropical palms like Chrysalidocarpus lutescens and Caryota urens killed back to the roots, many died outright, a few surprisingly came up in 1990 after being knocked back in 83,85 and 89 Everything else tender, Archontophoenix, Howea, Cocos, Adonidia, Ptychosperma, Roystonea, Hyophorbe, Latania, Licuala, Coccothrinax, Thrinax, all killed A few surprises around; Attalea rostrata and Arenga pinnata at Leu Gardens survived all 3 80s freezes (defoliated in all 3), both planted in 1973 A juvenile Copernicia macroglossa defoliated but survived in Maitland and the collector had Livistona australis die, he recorded 17F on the north side of Lake Maitland A mature Roystonea regia at an appx 15 story building downtown growing in a U shaped courtyard facing south survived 83 and 85, it had major burn but grew out but died around 1987(unknown reason), also Syagrus romanzoffiana and Phoenix reclinata survived the same freezes there with only moderate burn and mature Heptapleurum actinophyllum (Schefflera) only had partial dieback

I have two that I planted in pretty much full day sun as 1 gallons. It is going to burn, especially coming out of a greenhouse. Despite generally cool temperatures and decent humidity, the UV index gets pretty high here. Mine have been in the ground for close to three years and grow at a decent pace, but the leaves still eventually burn, though each new leaf is holding staying green longer than the last so it's getting closer to being fully sun-hardened I think. As Jim said, mine open new leaves at any time of year and in winter the red stays around for a few weeks which is nice.

While we are on the subject of alogoptrea caudescens, here’s a couple floating around the garden!

A couple of weeks later and it is really starting to look like a flush as opposed to a few little pale green nubs.

Exciting New Additions We are very grateful for the continued support through 2025 and into 2026, and are thrilled to announce our updated price list to kick off the growing season. This includes some exciting new additions and old favorites, see the preview below for some highlights: Chrysalidocarpus aff. ovobontsira One of the most exciting new palms, a large Chrysalidocarpus species that came in under the name ovobontsira, but ended up being something more exciting, a palm that doesn't fit neatly into any description and is apparently new to science. It is a gorgeous, moderately fast growing palm with a striking white pruinose crownshaft, upper trunk, petioles, and spadices. Finally available for your own garden/nursery! Orania disticha Hailing from Papua New Guinea, this amazing palm is one of the select set of species that carries its leaves on a single plane, giving the crown a distinctive 'flat' appearance. A great talking point for the tropical / semi-tropical garden. Physokentia petiolata This exceedingly rare Fijian palm has been an extended labor of love to bring into cultivation. The purple crownshaft, bright red inflorescence, and stilt roots make this a unique showstopper palm that inspires and delights. Geonoma oldemanii A clustering Geonoma from Brazil / French Guiana with beautiful large bifid leaves, the newest ones showing a splash of red. A great 'eye level' palm that adds an interesting accent to well planned gardens. Zamia elegantissima A new cycad for the spring list - a stunning landscape specimen with petioles that are relatively spineless compared to others in the genus. All this and many more, available now on our price list! Visit https://floribunda.xyz/pricelist Lemurophoenix halleuxii

Some orchids are blooming! Even with an extended , unseasonal heat wave they are doing good so far . They have been outdoors , next to the house for a couple of years now . They only get a couple of hours of early morning sun. Harry

Nice, I am trying to germinate seeds of the yellow type. Saw this tree the other day in Harlingen, Texas.

They get huge and do trunk here down south. Growth that takes decades in the wild shady forest can be achieved in years in gardens with full sun, irrigation, and no root competition. And males often tend to put all energy into one trunk. Still I would not skin their trunk—it’s just not right

Myself personally bottom heating set at 30 degrees, coco coir perlite mix just slightly damp, using etoliation to help things along. If the seed is 5mm in size you bury it 5mm if 10mm you bury 10mm and so on. Oh and patience.

That definitely doesn’t have fused leaflets, like Sabal ‘Lisa’ does. As for any variegation, I only see necrotic leaf tissue, and no variegation. Not sure if it’s just my phone or if I’m missing something here, but I see no yellow/white sections in the leaves at all. Can you please point exactly to what you’re looking at?

Here’s a photo of B. condapanna seedlings almost ready to be planted out. Tim

A quick and mostly positive update. Hope those who have had their spirits dashed will find some ideas from the short post below for potential paths forward that doesn't involve only planting a dozen species of plants. The pineapples didn't seem to notice we had a freeze since they were near a concrete block wall. They're getting ready to produce fruit this year. : If you're looking for safer options, but don't want to crimp your planting selections too much, branching and clustering palms like Hyphaene coriacea, Ptychosperma macarthurii, and Allagoptera arenaria are good options that give you more than one shot at coming back. There should be Hyphaene seeds available at the 2026 CFPACS Spring Meeting this weekend: Chrysalidocarpus lutescens comes back even when young. This one is coming back and is not long from seed. Coconuts are on the comeback trail, but aren't out of the woods yet as @pj_orlando_z9b mentioned. Even in the better microclimates in our respective cities, they took a major hit. The stores are running out of Copper fungicide here, so probably good to go get a few bottles of it before gas catches up to it in price. You can see some white fungal growth on the dead tissue. Now that the (hopefully) last cool-off is in the rearview mirror, it's probably best for me to just to remove anything damaged so it doesn't provide a breeding ground for fungus and attract white flies and other bugs. There is another frond behind the one partially visible in the photo that has green on it as well. The Maypan is in similar condition.

I planted this Hospita a couple of years back from a 7g. Soil was loose, and I inadvertently busted off a couple of big carrot-like main roots. Planted in full all-day sun, gave it plenty of water and fertilizer…. no ill effects. It’s now 8 feet tall and has done great. You have to be careful, but I’m not sure Copernicia are really as root sensitive as people say.

Another flower forming on the dypsis saintlucei!

I’m thinking you should plant Calamus radicalis along your front entrance. If he tries to go near it you will find him in the morning tangled up in it. A palm that fights back.

Each new leaf on the dypsis basilonga just gets better and better, followed by y a nice young Dypsis utilis leaf and don’t forget the vonitra Dransfeildii for putting on a nice new leaf for a bit of colour!

A nice young standelyi leaf!

That’s the idea of it, you’re only going to upset the apple cart, just to keep the peace and whole idea of community living, I suggest we stick with the idea of a utopian society where palms are everywhere and the temperature never drops below 18 degrees Celsius. In other words peace love and happiness and we can all get groovy! Richard

Phoenicophorium flowers must be somewhat appealing to the bees… IMG_4722.mov

Customs and border security took the fun out palm seed sharing, we where not doing anything wrong in sharing a rare palm seed!

Microcarpa stay green and are ripe when they naturally drop off the tree Cocoides turn a purple plum colour and are ripe when they drop

An amazing palm . I didn’t know anything about them until I saw one in the glass house at The Huntington in Pasadena , California. Yours is splendid! Harry

I really have to smile—we should definitely have a Sabal lisa here. First of all, it’s a wonderful palm tree, and second, my twin sister has the same name, so it’s a perfect fit 😁🤗🤭

Very rocky gravel base they are growing in, but moisture underneath is all they need. They withstand great flood events, getting pushed over. Richard

They are quite prolific with all that available water. Harry

Lol I already am a palm hybridizer, it's why I want the pollen. I have one of the only known live Jubaea growing in ground here in NE Florida, but as most know, historically they do not live or survive to maturity here. Hence the need for pollen, as the hybrids do. If you are willing to send some pollen we can talk more in private about the process. Thanks for the consideration.

Today the big sallehana I purchased at the recent pacsoa show went in the ground, I have others in my garden so iam confident it will live they are quite tough, there only weakness is lack of water!

I lost my bet, dang. Just for s..ts n giggles, I'd like to see it. 😂

This may sound a bit awkward but you have to change what you’re doing, as you say you can grow other varieties not a problem, this is because you are using the same technique. Look at what your doing, and do it differently too what you normally do. This could mean less water or fertiliser, more air or light, perhaps more shade, even your soil mix . Whatever your doing change it, look at your climatic conditions low humidity high humidity, cool conditions. Also a change is as good as a holiday. Bit without change you’re not going to make difference, only get the same results failure. Think like a plant!