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Posted

I was going to pot up some cycads up from a big 1 gal to a 5 and a big 5 up to a 10 gal.  

A Encephalartos HxW is throwing two leaves. (The 1 gal)

A Cycas B. looks like it will be starting a big leaf soon (the crrent one is about 6' long- 5 gal)  For that matter, I have a Cycas D. throwing a leaf now too and its already 18" long and still un curling, I suspect it will be 3-4' long. So, the same question applies here, I want to put it into a 10 Gal.

Has anyone any experience with whether it hurts, helps, or doesn't matter?

(PS- I included the Genus, if it matters which species, let me know)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

I'm no expert Bill, but I don't think it would bother them. I have planted a few mid flush with no problems at all. PM Jody(virtualpalm), he would know for sure.

Matt

Matt in Temecula, CA

Hot and dry in the summer, cold with light frost in the winter. Halfway between the desert and ocean

Posted

The only problem ive ever had potting up flushing cycads is the occasional breaking of the new leaves at the tender petioles.

Glenn

Modesto, California

 

Sunset Zone 14   USDA 9b

 

Low Temp. 19F/-7C 12-20-1990         

 

High Temp. 111F/43C 07-23-2006

 

Annual Average Precipitation 13.12 inches/yr.

 

             

Posted

Like we talked about Bill this afternoon, I have been stupid and transplated, or even planted from a pot, cycads starting to flush and the new leaves just seem to be zapped. I showed you my C. Apoa where the flush just died. I am sure I am to blame from not being careful and it might not matter but I am a believer to not mess with flushes in any way.

Whats the hurry anyway? :)

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Water demand for cycads is highest during leaf flushes, when you repot you probably disrupt the water column.  You should wait until the new leaves have hardened and then you can safely do whatever you want.

Long Island, NY

Zone 7A

silk palm trees grow well all year in my zone

:P

Posted

I'll still wait to hopefully hear from Bruce, or Tom or Jody, but at this point I'm leaning towards a "wait-and see" attidude.     (what else? :P )

It also may vary according to the available heat you have too. Outside in Oceanside, I don't have much to spare. :)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

(xerophyte_nyc @ Apr. 06 2008,19:10)

QUOTE
Water demand for cycads is highest during leaf flushes, when you repot you probably disrupt the water column.  You should wait until the new leaves have hardened and then you can safely do whatever you want.

Bill,

What xerophyte_nyc said is absolutely true. I would never transplant a cycad when it is flushing.

BTW, what are the following species from your original post?

Encephalartos HxW?

Cycas B.?

Cycas D.?

Jody

Posted

I agree!  I'd wait till they are done flushing!

Jeff Rood

Posted

I too have been advised by the local cycad gurus of south east queensland to hold off any work (transplanting/planting or potting up)  whilst new leaves are coming on.

Happy Gardening

Cheers,

Wal

Queensland, Australia.

Posted

The cycad is stressed enough flushing.  I  wouldn't add any more stress to the situation! I would give it a does of water while flushing. Don't let the soil dry out during a flush cause water demand is at the plants highest level.  I have seen my flushes perk up after I watered!  I'm waiting for my hor X wood to flush. It should soon.  Take care, Randy

test

Posted

Hi Bill,  I'm here!

As a general rule in our nursery we don't repot anything which is flushing or about to flush.  No matter how careful you are some roots always get broken off in the process and the disyrbance of the soil around the roots disrupts water and nutrient uptake.  

That being said we have on occasions had to transplant flushing plants and most of the time generally had good results.  the other times the plants died.

Also a lot depends on the size and species being repoted.   Species which are marginal to start with in Southern California are obviously the ones most likely to expire in the process.   Once you get to the 3-5 gallon size they are pretty resiliant.

Bruce

Now living the life in Childers, Queensland.

Posted

(virtualpalm @ Apr. 06 2008,16:54)

QUOTE

(xerophyte_nyc @ Apr. 06 2008,19:10)

QUOTE
Water demand for cycads is highest during leaf flushes, when you repot you probably disrupt the water column.  You should wait until the new leaves have hardened and then you can safely do whatever you want.

Bill,

What xerophyte_nyc said is absolutely true. I would never transplant a cycad when it is flushing.

BTW, what are the following species from your original post?

Encephalartos HxW?

Cycas B.?

Cycas D.?

Jody

HorWood

Bifida

Daeboensis

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Thanks for the responses folks, Looks like I'll be enjoying the full glory of the flushs before doing anything!  :D

Maybe I'll post some before/after pictures if anyone wants to see.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Thanks, Bill. I would be particularly interested in seeing photos of the Enc. horridus x woodii.

Jody

Posted

The flushing cycads I planted were Dioons (palma solas and edule) with no problems. I guess I was lucky and will not do it again. They are both hardy plants, so maybe that has something to do with my success.

Matt

Matt in Temecula, CA

Hot and dry in the summer, cold with light frost in the winter. Halfway between the desert and ocean

Posted

In my opinion, if I'm ready to pot-up a cycad, new flush of leaves or not, it's getting potted up. A few broken roots? Your going to water the plant in, right?In south Florida, we usually always have good warm weather, so I don't see a problem.

    But......the chance of breaking the new soft leaves are good if your not real careful. So, if I'm potting the plant up myself, I'll be real careful. But I probably would wait if I have my workers pot them up. I know the "cycad experts" say no......but I ...........

Jeff

Searle Brothers Nursery Inc.

and The Rainforest Collection.

Southwest Ranches,Fl.

Posted

(virtualpalm @ Apr. 07 2008,02:59)

QUOTE
Thanks, Bill. I would be particularly interested in seeing photos of the Enc. horridus x woodii.

Jody

OK Jody,

heres the Horwood. Tall 1 gal pot.  Very shinyleaves, typical Woodii look.

cycadsetc001.jpg

Size 8.5 shoe for reference. (Hey, what can I say? I'm a racer, small feet are a good thing!)

cycadsetc002.jpg

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Heres the others...

C. Bifida, big, like I like them. :D

cycadsetc007.jpg

I'm not sure if this is a start or not<I'll wait a week or so and see if it increases, if not, I'll pot'er up!

cycadsetc006.jpg

Leaves

cycadsetc009.jpg

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

And the C. Daeboensis.  The old leaf has a "bend" to it. :(

cycadsetc004.jpg

The new one is heading straight!!!

cycadsetc005.jpg

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

That "hor x wood" is awesome. I may have to look into getting some of those. Any ideas on a source?

BTW, now would be a perfect time to pot up that C. bifida IMO, since the leaf has not yet started emerging (I can't actually tell if it is a new leaf coming along or not, but as long as it hasn't started I would say "go for it").

Jody

Posted

As a general rule, I don't "bump up" cycads that are flushing, especially plants with multiple leaf flushes about to occur.

That being said, I have bumped encephalartos seedlings that are in the process of flushing a new leaf with little or no damage being done to the plants. IMO, it's a tossup between losing a month or more of "prime time" plant growth (ie early spring / summer) waiting for one leaf to fully develop versus getting the plant into fresh soil and a larger pot where roots have room to expand and grow.

I'm a firm believer in religiously "bumping" plants to the next level when they are ready to go. I have seen too many plants suffer from moderate to severe stunting having been left in dead soil and pots that were inhospitable to the plant, a condition that in many cases is either irreversible or takes years to correct.

Posted

(virtualpalm @ Apr. 08 2008,04:11)

QUOTE
That "hor x wood" is awesome. I may have to look into getting some of those. Any ideas on a source?

BTW, now would be a perfect time to pot up that C. bifida IMO, since the leaf has not yet started emerging (I can't actually tell if it is a new leaf coming along or not, but as long as it hasn't started I would say "go for it").

Jody

I got mine from Kevin Weaver, I think George Sparkman has them too.  You occasionally see them offered.

TropicalB might have a better idean than me.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Hi Bill. I know how you know about my e. eugene-marisii origins.  I got my hor-wood from Kevin Weaver as well!

001-4.jpg

002-3.jpg

test

Posted

(yachtingone @ Apr. 15 2008,08:33)

QUOTE
Hi Bill. I know how you know about my e. eugene-marisii origins.  I got my hor-wood from Kevin Weaver as well!

001-4.jpg

002-3.jpg

My E M's I was lucky enough to get before  Kevin got to them.  Got the HorWood from Kevin. Great Guy.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
BTW, now would be a perfect time to pot up that C. bifida IMO, since the leaf has not yet started emerging (I can't actually tell if it is a new leaf coming along or not, but as long as it hasn't started I would say "go for it").

Jody

Went ahaead and potted the Bifida in a 10 gal pot a few days back. Just looked today and it looks like a "nubbin" starting. B)

I noticed about the bottom 2-3 inches was all root. Probably happy for "some" soil.

I was gonna pot up the other Daebo, but looks like that has a "nubbin" too.

The others continue to grow with wild abandon :)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Heres an updated Bifida pic, freshly potted up about 10 days ago. Looks like it didn't mind at all. Note the "nubbin"

ocwsbifid003.jpg

For that matter, here is the Hor x Wood as of today.

horwoddaebo001.jpg

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

First Daebo continues, other starting a leaf :)

horwoddaebo002.jpg

Yes, I noticed the weeds....

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

More questions,

It turns out the Bifida pushed out a cone, I think its Male, and I have nothing to cross it to. Can, or should, I cut it off? The leaf is certainly looking "peaked".

It turns out the 2nd Daebo is pushing TWO leaves!! :blink:

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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