Finding microclimates in your yard.

[Zeeth]

So I was wondering if there was a way to find microclimates in your yard... Is it just by looking at how things are constructed, and determining from that what will be warmer in the winter, or what? Thanks,

Keith

[_Keith]

I have pretty much done it by observation. I have tried placing out temperature probes, but there are so many variables like wind, cold air flow or cold air drainage (different than wind), frost, humidity, etc.

[BS Man about Palms]

Still, cool, nights with multiple thermometers will tell you the most. (make sure they are accurate first.)

[mnorell]

I completely agree with Keith in re direct observation. One thing you can do is to take a borderline plant for your area, purchase a half-dozen or so of them, and place them in various areas...against each wall of your house or courtyard, under canopy, etc. It really depends on the individual plants, and whether they need soil-warmth in winter, whether they like or don't like sun on their foliage on frosty mornings, etc. I'm a full zone colder than you, but I have found that most thing planted against SW/S/SE walls, under high and light canopy, will do well, though the more cool-tolerant palms such as Rhapis do very well for me on NW/N/NE walls where their foliage is not struck by the sun on freezing winter mornings...one year I had damage on one specimen under open sky at 22.8F, while all others, sheltered from the AM sun, looked fine. Most tropical perennials appreciate the more southerly exposures because their rhizomes are warmed by the sun on the soil in winter. I would think Alpinia purpurata or Etlingera elatior would be good indicators in that respect. Soil drainage (raised beds, porous soil) also makes a big contribution during cold, wet periods for borderline plants. In very cold areas (e.g., zone 8a or colder) some BLEs in particular can have a hard time during hard freezes when the sun hits their foliage and stems/trunks before they (and their roots in the soil) can thaw out, particularly in very cold areas with multi-day freezes, where the ground freezes solid. But you don't need to worry about that where you are!

Since you're in the Tampa/St. Pete area, you already have a very nice climate indeed (a pretty good 10a, I assume your property is frost-free most years with lots of water around as a buffer). In addition to those I mentioned above, your borderline plants would be things that get stressed or damaged above freezing, like some of the more tender Aglaonemas, maybe Heliconia chartacea, Pritchardia pacifica, Morinda citrifolia, Strongylodon, Amherstia, Annona muricata, some other good zone 10b/11a plants that will be tested in an average winter. Talk to people in your area (especially your neighbors on this forum) and find out what people just can't seem to keep alive, and you've got a good candidate for testing. Ultimately I think it requires examining each plant's individual preferences, but obviously shelter from northerly winds in winter is something you should aim for all around your property, through the use of walls or planted dense evergreen windbreaks.

[Palmə häl′ik]

'Sup Keith...

Concrete, and bricks absorb heat during the day and dissapate very slowly, so growing next to something like a block wall or sidewalk would help... Aswell as right up against your home...

~Ray.

[DoomsDave]

Zeeth:

Dude, you sure can ask a profound question, which raises passions among the experienced!

There is no one answer, but, many.

Everyone who has answered so far is right, in their way.

No two ways, observation trumpts all, but -- be careful. Our wonderful senses, combined with our equally wonderful, but not always synchronous brains, get things wrong all the time.

This microclimate business is an art which means you can study and study, and get things right the old folks get wrong. SOmetimes.

Cold air sinks, even with very minor differences in elevation, which is a big deal in places like Florida.

Water is warmer than land; as it freezes, it give off heat. Hence, gardens on the water will be a bit warmer than those away, all things being equal.

Gardens full of plants will be better for tropicals because plants give off water vapor as they breathe.

Stone, concrete and brick abosorb heat, BUT when it's really nasty cold, can suck it away, too.

Gotta think some more about this.

[fishmanejr]

That's an interesting thought about concrete and brick sucking heat away from areas when temperatures are way down. I suppose that is true on overcast days without sun. However, any amount of sun regardless of the ambient temperature will heat up the brick/concrete/stone allowing it to radiate that heat back. I notice this in the gardens against the south wall of my stone house. Even on days where the temperature is in the teens, there is a few inches to almost a foot of thawed area against the base of the wall.

[BigBpalms]

This past summer i moved to a new home on the outside of Orlando- Orlando is full of microclimates , but on my new property I was unsure about the microclimates so I got a guinea pig plant and began sreading it all over - this year it was a c. costaricana, probably not the best but i got it for 12.00 at a plant sale and there were aprox. 12 in the pot all about 24" tall(this was done in august)- I went home broke them up and began to plant them in all over my property- front, sides ,back, under the oak hammock, under the elm trees, in the back by the big cypress, one on the east side of my storage shed, around the pool, etc..... after our rediculous winter I have now located three good microclimates all of which still have beautiful green c. costaricans with only little spotting even after 25 twice and 23 one night. Now I have a spot for Caryota Max., Dypsis Pembana, and teddybear x triangle, I also located two other areas where the costaricans were slightly burned- there I will plant verigated Rhapis, and liv. australis- never underestimate an indicator plant and a little patience- Also I plan to re-use the costaricans by moving them to new experimental spots for the next winter (hopefully not as cold)

[Zeeth]

This past summer i moved to a new home on the outside of Orlando- Orlando is full of microclimates , but on my new property I was unsure about the microclimates so I got a guinea pig plant and began sreading it all over - this year it was a c. costaricana, probably not the best but i got it for 12.00 at a plant sale and there were aprox. 12 in the pot all about 24" tall(this was done in august)- I went home broke them up and began to plant them in all over my property- front, sides ,back, under the oak hammock, under the elm trees, in the back by the big cypress, one on the east side of my storage shed, around the pool, etc..... after our rediculous winter I have now located three good microclimates all of which still have beautiful green c. costaricans with only little spotting even after 25 twice and 23 one night. Now I have a spot for Caryota Max., Dypsis Pembana, and teddybear x triangle, I also located two other areas where the costaricans were slightly burned- there I will plant verigated Rhapis, and liv. australis- never underestimate an indicator plant and a little patience- Also I plan to re-use the costaricans by moving them to new experimental spots for the next winter (hopefully not as cold)

Very good advise! I will try this in the new yard (when we get it, which will hopefully be before next winter so i can do trials) so I can have spots to put coconut palms.