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Posted

I have a 8/10 ft high triple king. The smallest of the three is suddenly looking sick. It has a wavey, ruffle pattern around the trunk. The crown shaft and lower fronds have turned brown. Only the top three fronds and spear are green and they're dry-ish and covered in yellowy-brown spots. What the heck is it? Can it be saved? Please advise.

Thanks,

James

Posted

Can you post up some photos of it?

Posted

Yes please post pictures we are all from Missouri

Oakley, California

55 Miles E-NE of San Francisco, CA

Solid zone 9, I can expect at least one night in the mid to low twenties every year.

Hot, dry summers. Cold, wet winters.

Posted

James it doesn't sound good. Pictures will help us diagnose your problem.

Best regards

Tyrone

Millbrook, "Kinjarling" Noongar word meaning "Place of Rain", Rainbow Coast, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Cool nights all year round.

 

 

Posted

Sounds like a fungus, don't get the crown wet with hose water, Ed

  • Upvote 1

MOSQUITO LAGOON

Oak_Hill.gif

Posted

Aloha Palmeros,

Attached please see two photos of my diseased King Palm. What i this disease? How do I treat it? Is it too late?

Check out the "Ruffles have ridges" on the bass of the trunk. The crown shaft is chocolate brown. A week ago it had two green fronds. Now only the spear is green and it too is looking worse each day. Only one of three in this triple King have the disease. Do I let it die before removing it? I wonder if I cut it now if the disease would be more likely to spread to the other two healthy ones. No? Please advise.

This palm never has never had overhead water other than rain. It gets full sun and plenty of wind. The soil is never wet for long.

Many thanks,

James

post-3921-12727600712289_thumb.jpg

post-3921-12727601029996_thumb.jpg

Posted

James,

These palms are water lovers. In nature they grow in deep valleys in a subtropical to tropical rainforest, and alongside or partly in streams In triples, the root competition can get too much for one of the palms and it dies especially if conditions are dry. On a dry site, a Brahea or Washy might be a better choice. [ I have made this mistake myself]

Your problems looks fungal....try pulling on the spear. If it comes out , pour a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide down the hole ..... and pray. Dont water from overhead.

chris.oz

Bayside Melbourne 38 deg S. Winter Minimum 0 C over past 6 years

Yippee, the drought is over.

Posted

Looking at the trunk, its a goner. :(

As Chris said, maybe more water in the future. You might as well cut off the bad trunk. DON'T try to dig it!!

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Aloha Palmeros,

Attached please see two photos of my diseased King Palm. What i this disease? How do I treat it? Is it too late?

Check out the "Ruffles have ridges" on the bass of the trunk. The crown shaft is chocolate brown. A week ago it had two green fronds. Now only the spear is green and it too is looking worse each day. Only one of three in this triple King have the disease. Do I let it die before removing it? I wonder if I cut it now if the disease would be more likely to spread to the other two healthy ones. No? Please advise.

This palm never has never had overhead water other than rain. It gets full sun and plenty of wind. The soil is never wet for long.

Many thanks,

James

Looks like Pink Rot to me, I'd hit the remaining trunks up with a fungicide...along with removing the infected trunk (to prevent future contamination). Sorry to be the bear of bad news.

Danny

Posted

Please recommend a fungicide. I thought it was pink rot b/c I dunno any other fungus to attack these. I NEVER overhead water. It is possible that water competition may have weakened the smallest of the three (as suggested above), I suppose, but I don't think it likely as this is on an irrigation timer in line with other King Palms. Only this one has a problem, which came on super fast btw. Many thanks for your replies!

Aloha,

James

Posted

Please recommend a fungicide.

Id use Daconil, fallow the product instructions.

Posted

Looking at the trunk, its a goner. :(

As Chris said, maybe more water in the future. You might as well cut off the bad trunk. DON'T try to dig it!!

Agree with you Bill.

Millbrook, "Kinjarling" Noongar word meaning "Place of Rain", Rainbow Coast, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Cool nights all year round.

 

 

Posted

I hear crushing up three aspirin into four gallons of water each time you water is an effective fungicide. Anyone know?

Aloha,

James

Posted

If it's pink rot (which is likely since that's one of the only ways king palms die around here if they are watered), Daconil won't do anything for it. You teed a fungicide with T-methyl (thiophanate methyl). I've used T-methyl granules (thanks to MattyB) to completely rescue two palms that were losing pink rot battles. I piled them in the crown and all the leaf bases and watered them in.

At least one of those kings is already dead though. So just treat the ones that have a fighting chance.

Matt

San Diego

0.6 Acres of a south facing, gently sloped dirt pile, soon to be impenetrable jungle

East of Mount Soledad, in the biggest cold sink in San Diego County.

Zone 10a (I hope), Sunset 24

Posted

So, that T-methyl treatment worked for you. Great news. If anyone's interested, just get Scott's lawn fungus control in the pink/orange bag with active ingredient t-methyl and do like Matt said: pile the granules in the leafbases and mist/lighty water in. Everytime water goes down the crown it'll be filtering through the T-methyl and over the pink rot spores that are under all the leaf bases. Most importantly, never rip a leaf base off, especially in Winter.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

Matt,

Yes the T-methyl worked miracles. My Clinostigma savoryanum had soft spots on the trunk and was really starting to rot in. For that one I actually used a syringe and injected solutions from soaking the T-methyl granules into the soft spots on the trunk and crown. Threw in some pesticide too as there was a horde of beetles living in there eating it all up.

Last summer a Dypsis pembana with 2 feet of trunk stopped growing, and when it was obvious something was wrong I started peeling the crown back to see. It was full of pink rot. I ended up pulling the spear out and poured the T-methyl into the festering hole. It's pushing it's second leaf out now, still stunted, but growing pretty fast.

Pretty amazing stuff.

Matt

San Diego

0.6 Acres of a south facing, gently sloped dirt pile, soon to be impenetrable jungle

East of Mount Soledad, in the biggest cold sink in San Diego County.

Zone 10a (I hope), Sunset 24

Posted

So, that T-methyl treatment worked for you. Great news. If anyone's interested, just get Scott's lawn fungus control in the pink/orange bag with active ingredient t-methyl and do like Matt said: pile the granules in the leafbases and mist/lighty water in. Everytime water goes down the crown it'll be filtering through the T-methyl and over the pink rot spores that are under all the leaf bases. Most importantly, never rip a leaf base off, especially in Winter.

Thanks, Home!

Great advice!

I don't get much pink rot, but when it does come even the doctors get squeamish . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

James!

Welcome to our grande familia!

(La Familia dysfunctional?)

Sorry to have to meet like this.

Your brown king is dead, long live the other two.

Kings are thirsty devils. Don't hold back on the water.

Cut out the dead stem, and treat the others. That T-meth treatment is new, and, well, an old dawg just learned a new trick . . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

Matt,

Yes the T-methyl worked miracles. My Clinostigma savoryanum had soft spots on the trunk and was really starting to rot in. For that one I actually used a syringe and injected solutions from soaking the T-methyl granules into the soft spots on the trunk and crown. Threw in some pesticide too as there was a horde of beetles living in there eating it all up.

Last summer a Dypsis pembana with 2 feet of trunk stopped growing, and when it was obvious something was wrong I started peeling the crown back to see. It was full of pink rot. I ended up pulling the spear out and poured the T-methyl into the festering hole. It's pushing it's second leaf out now, still stunted, but growing pretty fast.

Pretty amazing stuff.

Matt

Ah, good to know!

How about some pictures, which will also provide illustrations for all of us . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

Matt,

Yes the T-methyl worked miracles. My Clinostigma savoryanum had soft spots on the trunk and was really starting to rot in. For that one I actually used a syringe and injected solutions from soaking the T-methyl granules into the soft spots on the trunk and crown. Threw in some pesticide too as there was a horde of beetles living in there eating it all up.

Last summer a Dypsis pembana with 2 feet of trunk stopped growing, and when it was obvious something was wrong I started peeling the crown back to see. It was full of pink rot. I ended up pulling the spear out and poured the T-methyl into the festering hole. It's pushing it's second leaf out now, still stunted, but growing pretty fast.

Pretty amazing stuff.

Matt

Wow, that's great news. I know Len was sceptical because the % of T-methyl is very low in those Scott's granuals compared to Cleary's 3336, which is not available to the general public.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

I hear crushing up three aspirin into four gallons of water each time you water is an effective fungicide. Anyone know?

Aloha,

James

Never heard of that.

However, Hydrogen Peroxide can also work as a fungus killer, too. Pour it in, watch it fizz, use any extra to dye hair . . . . (Or not!)

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Got the Scott's with t-methyl and applied as recommended here. How often would you recommend repeating treatment and for how long?

Thanks,

James

  • 5 years later...
Posted

How are your palms doing did the T-Methyl do the trick

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