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Chamaedorea adscendens dying?

mwardlow

By mwardlow
in DISCUSSING PALM TREES WORLDWIDE

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mwardlow Community Regular

mwardlow

Posted
Posted

My Chamaedorea Adscendens seems to be dying from the bottom up. It has lost 2 fronds so far and as you can see 2 more are ready to go.

Any Ideas why?

Thank's

Mike

post-3191-12826106786378_thumb.jpg

MLW

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BS Man about Palms Grand Master

BS Man about Palms

Posted
Posted

More details, your location, weather, etc.

Kinda like asking the doc "whats wrong with me" while your in the lobby and hes behind the desk. :)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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mwardlow Community Regular

mwardlow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

More details, your location, weather, etc.

Kinda like asking the doc "whats wrong with me" while your in the lobby and hes behind the desk. :)

MLW

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mwardlow Community Regular

mwardlow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I live in Huntington beach Ca and the Palm came from Rancho Soledad in March.

It is outside with a bright location no direct sun.

Keep the soil moist, don't think its overwatered.

Put out a new leaf but did not open fully and is putting out another.

I have never had a palm decline like this before.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

Mike

MLW

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BS Man about Palms Grand Master

BS Man about Palms

Posted
Posted

I'm sure a lot of it is acclimation from Hawaii.

But it is better to have leaves die from the bottom than the other way around...

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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John in Andalucia Grand Master

John in Andalucia

Posted
Posted

Is it needing a fresh soil mix? Have you slipped the pot off to inspect the root ball? Are there wet/dry patches in the soil? Ants nesting? In my experience, Chamaedorea don't need constantly moist soil, and at that size, I would prefer a less open soil mix, with even moisture from top to bottom. If you are watering "poco a poco" because it's in a fast draining mix, you might also question the water quality. If mine, I would re-pot it and remove the lower leaves. Just my 2 cents.

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  • 7 months later...
Mandrew968 Grand Master

Mandrew968

Posted
Posted (edited)

Too much light? This palm is one of the smaller of the chamaedoreas--they are low light palms.

Edited by Mandrew968
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joe_OC Grand Master

joe_OC

Posted
Posted

Mike,

Mine got pretty beat up this winter as well. I think it was just a tough winter for them. If your newer fronds are green and the growth point looks good, I would just put it in a more protected area.

Joe

Huntington Beach, CA

USDA Zone 10a/10b

Sunset Zone 24

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LJG Grand Master

LJG

Posted
Posted

Too much light? This palm is one of the smaller of the chamaedoreas--they are low light palms.

Thanks for opening up this old thread to incorrectly identify why it is dying and to then state the obvious. :)

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

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Mandrew968 Grand Master

Mandrew968

Posted
Posted

I just picked up one and was researching it on palmtalk. Sorry if I annoyed you--I'm still in training... Maybe one day... maybe...

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LJG Grand Master

LJG

Posted
Posted

Good luck with that.....

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

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MattyB Grand Master

MattyB

Posted
Posted

I

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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Mandrew968 Grand Master

Mandrew968

Posted
Posted

Thank you for the luck, Len(that was my grandfather's name), I'd rather be lucky than good any day! :D

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LJG Grand Master

LJG

Posted
Posted

Lucky and good is better. Ask MattyB - he's neither. :)

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

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Mandrew968 Grand Master

Mandrew968

Posted
Posted

Or good&lucky! :lol: I'm sure MattyB has had his share of visits from miss Luck--can't speak to his being good tho :lol:

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palmtreesforpleasure Veteran

palmtreesforpleasure

Posted
Posted

Hello MLW

Firstly, repot with a free draining potting mix, Treat with phosphorous acid

Many of the fungicides that were once used in the garden were quite dangerous to us and to the environment. Many diseases are also resistant to some of the commonly used fungicides. The good news is that there is now a very safe and effective product on the market. It is a phosphorous acid available to home gardens as Anti Rot. Yates Anti Rot Phosacid inhibits the growth of fungus and enhances the defence system of plants. It breaks down in soil and does not harm the environment. It controls collar rot in citrus and ornamentals, root rot in citrus, avocados and ornamentals (including native plants, luculias, daphne and proteas) and downy mildew in grapes. It is sprayed over the foliage where it is absorbed into the plant. Another good thing about this product is that it has no withholding period, so it can be sprayed up to harvest. This is because phosphorous acid is very similar to phosphoric acid, a food additive.

also

use a broad based systemic fungicide containing myclobutanil, it help stop root rot as well as other fungus problems, I use these to prevent seedling rotting of as well. They do not like hard water so use filtered water only and it should recover, a systemic insecticide to prevent opportunistic pests whilst the plant is weakened also would help.

Alternate the 2 systems at first 2 days apart then every 4 days , after that as required. Having grown many species of Chamaedorea, the rules are simple, soft water and free draining , aerated soil, never let the soil get compacted. Most Chamaedorea species do not like wet feet, Some species , when young, like to rot off, the fungicide treatment help them get past the danger period

regards

Colin

coastal north facing location

100klm south of Sydney

NSW

Australia

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tjwalters Veteran

tjwalters

Posted
Posted

Hello MLW

Firstly, repot with a free draining potting mix, Treat with phosphorous acid

Many of the fungicides that were once used in the garden were quite dangerous to us and to the environment. Many diseases are also resistant to some of the commonly used fungicides. The good news is that there is now a very safe and effective product on the market. It is a phosphorous acid available to home gardens as Anti Rot. Yates Anti Rot Phosacid inhibits the growth of fungus and enhances the defence system of plants. It breaks down in soil and does not harm the environment. It controls collar rot in citrus and ornamentals, root rot in citrus, avocados and ornamentals (including native plants, luculias, daphne and proteas) and downy mildew in grapes. It is sprayed over the foliage where it is absorbed into the plant. Another good thing about this product is that it has no withholding period, so it can be sprayed up to harvest. This is because phosphorous acid is very similar to phosphoric acid, a food additive.

also

use a broad based systemic fungicide containing myclobutanil, it help stop root rot as well as other fungus problems, I use these to prevent seedling rotting of as well. They do not like hard water so use filtered water only and it should recover, a systemic insecticide to prevent opportunistic pests whilst the plant is weakened also would help.

Alternate the 2 systems at first 2 days apart then every 4 days , after that as required. Having grown many species of Chamaedorea, the rules are simple, soft water and free draining , aerated soil, never let the soil get compacted. Most Chamaedorea species do not like wet feet, Some species , when young, like to rot off, the fungicide treatment help them get past the danger period

regards

Colin

Marketed as "Aliette" in the U.S.

Tom

Bowie, Maryland, USA - USDA z7a
hardiestpalms.com

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