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Posted

It’s been a couple years since I was last at my favourite Japanese Palm Island, Hachijo (see original thread here: http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/39566-welcome-to-roebelenii-island/

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So I was kind of thrilled to get down there again on a palm shopping trip. Even though this island is under the political umbrella of Tokyo, it’s soundly in a sub-tropical band that gives it warmer winters, lot’s of year-round warm rain, and plenty of sun… which all means it’s a greenhouse for some great palms. And it’s only a 40-minute flight away.

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Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted (edited)

So what did I buy? Well, I got a little crazy: I bought a shipping container’s worth: 69 plants. That's two-and-a-half kiddie trucks.

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Through a new grower (he’s over 70 years old, but he’s new to me) named Muroguchi-san, I was able to find and buy Livistona Chinensis, Syagrus Weddellianum, Howea Belmorea, Butia Odorata (I think), and Rhapis of some sort. 

063.thumb.JPG.1806e623259ada15ad23da2fda

 

Edited by JT in Japan
  • Upvote 1

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted (edited)

Here are some of the plant pics.

Howea Belmoriana (?)

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Livistona Chinensis (a little too much sun this past season has left it limey green; more shade with darken it up)

016.thumb.JPG.2dfcdc91881f1f67eda8479fcd

021.thumb.JPG.0aee22f4aee4d99bc207cbf830

 

Edited by JT in Japan
  • Upvote 1

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

Rhapis excelsa (?)

038.thumb.JPG.1ffd2ed8bcab146a8d83a4b9ad

050.thumb.JPG.6fc71b08fad6ee7fced3f5d4e4

Butia Catariansis (?)

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079.thumb.JPG.82a6bb0030214486a6856c126a

  • Upvote 1

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

And finally Syagrus Weddellianum, which they call Princess Butia in Japanese (hime cocosu).

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070.thumb.JPG.b3c4091fb4e587b56bd6de2bde

 

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

Here's the lot of them at my place, essentially in storage till I figure out how to sell them, or where to plant them. There's a business plan somewhere, but it's still very much a WIP.

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084.thumb.JPG.df1633f579b309394121e731b9

 

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

Could someone ID this one for me? It has the multiple stocks of a rhapis, but pinnate leaves. I haven't a clue. 

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074.thumb.JPG.3330582f9e08ee89551da0de30

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

Could someone ID this one for me? It has the multiple stocks of a rhapis, but pinnate leaves. I haven't a clue. 

075.thumb.JPG.f06e9e9859a58354f2c6f1d0ee

074.thumb.JPG.3330582f9e08ee89551da0de30

is chamaedorea seifrizi

while Rhapis not seem excelsa

GIUSEPPE

Posted

I am much impressed that japanese nurseries use the longilinear WHITE pots. It means that at times those plants grow not only outside a greenhouse (I see in the pictures only a shadehouse) but also completely exposed.

Posted

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

  • Upvote 1

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

Posted

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

H

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

How can you be sure it's R. subtilis?

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

How can you be sure it's

Searle Brothers Nursery Inc.

and The Rainforest Collection.

Southwest Ranches,Fl.

Posted

 

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

How can you be sure it's R. subtilis?

Oh, you are right: The apices are jagged, so the label Rhapis excelsa may be correct. :huh:

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

Posted

Further the leaflets of the Rhapis have not split to the base, so it wouldn’t be R. subtilis but siamensis (if the apices were pointed). But this is also characteristic of R. excelsa. – I had to take a closer look to the photos before posting my guess. :(

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

Posted

I concur with the identification as Howea forsteriana.  :)

San Francisco, California

Posted

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

Pal, I learned that the downward-facing fronds were Belmoreana, and the upward-facing fronds were Forsteriana. Is this wrong? If you look at the first post, second photo, are those all Forsteriana also?

JT

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

I am much impressed that japanese nurseries use the longilinear WHITE pots. It means that at times those plants grow not only outside a greenhouse (I see in the pictures only a shadehouse) but also completely exposed.

Those white pots are ubiquitous in Japan, Phoenikakias. I never see black pots. But some of the nurseries use them even when the plants are kept under shade cloth their whole life. 

JT 

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

Nice collection! If you can grow Howeas you can grow so many other palms! Other Litocaryum (Syagrus) species like L, insigne, L. hoehnei. Probably Ceroxylon sp, a lot of Chamaedorea species..... etc

Carambeí, 2nd tableland of the State Paraná , south Brazil.

Alt:1030m. Native palms: Queen, B. eriospatha, B. microspadix, Allagoptera leucocalyx , A.campestris, Geonoma schottiana, Trithrinax acanthocoma. Subtr. climate, some frosty nights. No dry season. August: driest month. Rain:1700mm

 

I am seeking for cold hardy palms!

Posted

Could someone ID this one for me? It has the multiple stocks of a rhapis, but pinnate leaves. I haven't a clue. 

is chamaedorea seifrizi

thanks Gyuseppe, that's a pretty palm. I'll try to pick it up next trip.

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

JT,  you have the frond attachment angle reversed.  H. forsteriana has the flat,downward leaflets, and H. belmoreana the upward, 'V' section attachment.  This is not so pronounced on juvenile palms.  I can take a photo of H. belmoreana tomorrow, both juvenile and adult.:winkie:  

San Francisco, California

Posted

The Howea is H. forsteriana, the Rhapis is R. subtilis, the other palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii (as Giuseppe wrote). Butia catarinensis may be correct: http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Butia_catarinensis  – Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. – Try to keep all the Syagrus weddelliana and make a lot of seeds which you can sell to all the palm lovers who can then grow up their own "Princess Cocos" from seed!

Pal, I learned that the downward-facing fronds were Belmoreana, and the upward-facing fronds were Forsteriana. Is this wrong? If you look at the first post, second photo, are those all Forsteriana also?

JT

1st post 2nd photo: Do you mean the tall palms? Yes, they are H. forsteriana too. Here some infos on Palmpedia:

http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Howea_belmoreana

http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Howea_forsteriana

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

Posted

 Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. 

Do you think it may be lacking in some nutrient, Pal? It's likely been in the same pot for several years now. I've got over 20 of them; should I be planning on a re-potting party to get them better nutrition?

JT

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

JT,  you have the frond attachment angle reversed.  H. forsteriana has the flat,downward leaflets, and H. belmoreana the upward, 'V' section attachment.  This is not so pronounced on juvenile palms.  I can take a photo of H. belmoreana tomorrow, both juvenile and adult.:winkie:  

Quite right, Darold. I was bass-ackwards.

And now, onward, upward, ho!

jt

Shimoda, Japan, Lat: 36.6N, Long: 138.8

Zone 9B (kinda, sorta), Pacific Coast, 1Km inland, 75M above sea level
Coldest lows (Jan): 2-5C (35-41F), Hottest highs (Aug): 32-33C (87-91F)

Posted

 Livistona chinensis can withstand full sun, the reason for yellowing may be another. 

Do you think it may be lacking in some nutrient, Pal? It's likely been in the same pot for several years now. I've got over 20 of them; should I be planning on a re-potting party to get them better nutrition?

JT

I would leave them in the old pots, but give them some fert and lots of water. – I have checked the 1st post 2nd pic once more: It seems that there could be also a H. belmoreana a little hidden on the left side (pink encircled):

Hachijoojima_014.thumb.JPG.0241e2887ca3b

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

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