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Trachycarpus fortunei - Yellowing fronds question


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Posted

Hello everyone. It's my first time posting. I received my first windmill palm for christmas. I had done a little research on these, mainly being the only palm to survive up here in Michigan. However I have some concerns.

Currently this one is in a southern window. The first week i watered it 2 or 3 times ( I did only 3 or so cups of water). Yes the drop pan had water in it afterwards.  I have since realized I need to hardly water it during the winter and learned about using distilled water and flushing the soil.  The room it is in has a humidifier running all day and night with temps 65-69F. My concern is the yellowing on the fronds. I've read that old fronds die off but I dont know how old the palm is or when they start dieing off. I thought yellowing of fronds was from lack of soil nutrients and brown was from watering? My moisture tester read some dry areas and some moist areas in the pot. I also seen not to fertilize in the winter, only the spring and summer. 

Am I doing something wrong? I have not moved it from the pot I received it in, was planning to do that in the spring to a cactus mix soil. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Welcome to the forum!

As far as I know, Trachycarpus fortunei aren't meant for warm overwintering. Like many other palms from non-tropical origins (Phoenix Canariensis, Washingtonia robusta,...) it would be better for them to have lower temperatures (about 50°F ) as they want to grow actively at room temperature, which the low-light situation prohibits (You are at more than 40°Nord + in the second darkest month of the year, even with a south-facing window there isn't enough light for it considering the warm temperatures). Also, there are no healthy Trachycarpus in Southern Florida, which could show that they cannot endure continuous warmth. My Trachycarpus is outside the whole year in a pot, except for days when temperatures don't rise above freezing point or nights are lower than 22°F and it is quite healthy-looking.

I would not be too concerned as it is only the oldest leaf turning yellow which could have been caused by the changed environment (maybe from Greenhouse (petioles look a bit elongated to me) to your apartment)

But I am no Trachycarpus expert, therefore it could be something else.

Edited by LivistonaFan
  • Upvote 1
Posted

The newer fronds all look pretty good, and the palm overall looks healthy.  As LivistonaFan has said I don't think they're the best indoors overwinter but its just temporary so you're basically just trying to get it through until spring.  I think once you start getting some warmer days I'd put it outside in a nice sunny spot and bring it in to the garage or indoors on cold nights.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

How do you guys feel about me leaving humidifier running all the time? The furnace has a humidifier on it but I dont believe it brings humidity % high enough. 

2 hours ago, LivistonaFan said:

Welcome to the forum!

As far as I know, Trachycarpus fortunei aren't meant for warm overwintering. Like many other palms from non-tropical origins (Phoenix Canariensis, Washingtonia robusta,...) it would be better for them to have lower temperatures (about 50°F ) as they want to grow actively at room temperature, which the low-light situation prohibits (You are at more than 40°Nord + in the second darkest month of the year, even with a south-facing window there isn't enough light for it considering the warm temperatures). Also, there are no healthy Trachycarpus in Southern Florida, which could show that they cannot endure continuous warmth. My Trachycarpus is outside the whole year in a pot, except for days when temperatures don't rise above freezing point or nights are lower than 22°F and it is quite healthy-looking.

I would not be too concerned as it is only the oldest leaf turning yellow which could have been caused by the changed environment (maybe from Greenhouse (petioles look a bit elongated to me) to your apartment)

But I am no Trachycarpus expert, therefore it could be something else.

 

Posted

Welcome to the forum becareful with indoor watering. Only water when it needs it. Not because of schedule. I killed my first windmill from over watering 

Posted

One thing the palm fiend Christian Faulkner told me is. That the palms we get up here are only grown to last a short while. The soils is garbage. Doesn’t drain well or help the palm sustain a while. Basically there annuals. I have better luck with my own soil and my own home grown palms than store bought. 

Posted
30 minutes ago, Rickybobby said:

One thing the palm fiend Christian Faulkner told me is. That the palms we get up here are only grown to last a short while. The soils is garbage. Doesn’t drain well or help the palm sustain a while. Basically there annuals. I have better luck with my own soil and my own home grown palms than store bought. 

Come spring time, I do plan on transferring to a nice pot with my own soil. I figured itd be less stressful when environment is a little more ideal. 

Posted

Put it outside when temps are over 20F in your region later on.  Don't worry so much unless the spear or newest frond or 2 shows damage besides the tips.  it will look better next year.  All palms die back a little with the older fronds during winter even in FL due to less light.  If your garage stays above 32F you could put your palm out there in winter if you'd like.  Trachy palms are completely covered by many people and sit without any light for a few months.   They kinda go dormant if in cool/ dark conditions. Water one time to wet the pot completely then don't water again till the top 1-2" feels dry with your finger. 

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