Palm Tree Turned Yellow

[Jennifer]

Hello, I have 5 of the same palm trees. I think they are Queen Palm, but am not really sure.

The three in the front yard look amazing!

Two, in the back yard, are not nearly as healthy, so I gave them some "Southern AG, Palm Nutritional Spray. I actually put it in the soil since it was an option. The directions say 2-4 oz for a medium sized tree, so I was using 3oz mixed with a gallon of water, every 2 weeks. I've done this for about 5-6 months now.

After a few months, one of the trees looks really healthy now, but the 5th tree, the one the picture, did not improve. It actually looks more yellow in person than it does in the photo. It's looked this way for at least 6-9 months. We had a brutal hear last summer, 115+ degrees for a few weeks. We thought that hurt this tree? But the others are ok?

All of the trees get the same amount of water. We cut back for winter and usually add more when it gets warmer (we're in Palm Springs, CA). I've checked for bugs and there is no infestation or anything. I also tried to give it the stick fertilizer bars for about a year (every 3 months). I just see no improvement. Anyone have any idea what could wrong with it? I really appreciate any advice.

[Jim in Los Altos]

Pindo palm (Butia odorata). Jelly palm is also its common name. In Palm Springs I would have kept it watered during the winter as well. Do you feed? Severe potassium deficiency can happen with this species. It also looks chloritic. Iron deficiency can occur even more in sandy soils. I’d suggest a quality fertilizer like PalmGain and regular deep watering. 

Edited May 1, 2019 by Jim in Los Altos
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[The Gerg]

That is not a queen palm. That looks like a struggling Butia Capitata. As for trying to revive it there are far more qualified people on here than me. Are you perhaps over fertilizing it now? I know that can be detrimental sometimes. I’m not really familiar with the products you are using. I tend to go with Palmgain. During the last 6-9 months you say it has looked like this has it opened up any new leafs?

[Jennifer]

Thanks for your responses.

I have been watering them all (throughout the winter), but just not as much as in the summer, because I noticed the soil was not drying up in the winter months and was afraid of rot. All 5 of the trees receive the same amount of water, and since 4/5 are thriving, I'm thinking it isn't the water?

re: the fertilizer, I don't think it has been too much, I tend to "under" fertilize, especially since it is hard to find places to put the sticks properly, because of this tree's location. Here's a link to the nutritional product I'm using https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southern-Ag-1-pint-Palm-Nutritional-Spray-100048941/100327368

It has been getting new "leafs", but they come out the same yellowish green, while my other trees are a nice dark green.

[Matt in OC]

I'd do some deep waterings for now and lay off the fertilizer until the leaves look a little more plumose. They look pretty shriveled. Welcome to PalmTalk!

[PalmatierMeg]

If by "sticks" you mean something like Jobe's fertilizer tree sticks, you are probably wasting your money. Get a quality time release fertilizer with all the major and minor elements (I am not familiar with Palm Gain but haven't heard anything bad about it). Rather than palm nutrition spray, for additional minors look for Southern Ag Essential Minor Elements in granular form. That Butia looks undernourished and dessicated so you should considering fertilizing more than once or twice a year until all palms are rehabilitated. And give them water, esp during your dry summers.

[Merlyn]

Any decent slow release granular fertilizer will be fine on Butia, they are usually pretty tough.  I give mine a handful scattered around the base every 3 months.  I've used the "Vigoro Palm & Ixora" granular and Sunniland Palm granular. 

I have used the Southern AG palm foliar spray before, with indeterminate results.   Adding lots of extra micronutrients to the soil may prevent the palm from taking up iron, which is likely the cause of the severe yellowing.  A foliar spray with the Southern AG might help, but palms don't absorb a lot through the leaves.  Here's a primer article on iron deficiency:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep265

If the palm is planted too deep, in heavy clay and/or is poorly draining, then you could have root rot or a similar problem going on.  If it gets splashed from the pool next to it, that could cause rot or chlorine poisoning.

 

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

That palm, Butia odorata, or Pindo Palm is probably dying.  I'm not sure if its root rot, or something thats clogging the vascular system.  It could even be a root rotting disease caused by Phytophthora or fusarium.  It even looks a bit like the symptoms on Phoenix sylvestnis infected with Lethal Bronzing, but I cannot see if the spear leaf is dead.  Whatever the cause, fertilizer will not solve the problem, and it might make it worse (if thats possible).  If it is in wet soil, it could be root asphyxiation (drowning), or a disease that thrives in wet soil (like Phytophthrora).  For the record, there are Phytophthora diseases that kill roots, and at least 1 phytophthora disease that causes the palm's bud to rot.  There is no effective treatment for these maladies, especially at this advanced stage.  

[Jennifer]

Thank you all very much for your replies. I will try to add some granular iron and do some deep watering, and hope for the best.

I moved into the home last year, and oddly, I remember the previous owner had said they can get diseased easily, and to make sure the gardeners use alcohol on the knife or whatever it is they trim the old leaves off with. Does this make any sense? He must have had problems with that tree. 

In photos, the yellow tree was perfect last June and there is another one about 15 feet away that is doing very well, on the same irrigation line. I am estimating it's age is about 18 yrs old. 

[Merlyn]

A broad spectrum fungicide could help if it's a fungal problem.  A soil-drench type might help with root issues, as long as it's not too severe.  I've been using Banrot 40WP as a soil drench/systemic fungicide with good luck on a few "rescue palms."

Cleaning the pruning tools is good practice, especially to keep diseases from spreading from 1 palm to another.  Fungi are especially easy to transfer.

Post a picture from last June, that may help figure out what's happened to it.

[Jennifer]

Thank you. I will try the fungicide. I suppose it takes a long time to see the change in leaf color, if successful (a few months?)

Here's a picture from June 2018.

[Merlyn]

To be honest, the palm looks over-pruned and very sick in that photo as well.  It's just not as bad, yet.  The leaflets look ragged, limp and twisted.  Generally Butia leaflets are stiff and upright, straight out from the stem.  Here are some photos of a nice, healthy 15 year old one for reference:

Do you have a pool leak by any chance?  Or kids that jump in and splash pool water in that area?  I was driving past a water treatment station (just a 10x10 concrete pad with some tanks and pumps) a few months ago, and some big, healthy green Sabals had suddenly turned neon yellow.  Last week there was a crew out digging holes around the station, most likely fixing a chemical leak.  That's why I was wondering about the pool.

[GottmitAlex]

On 4/30/2019 at 6:20 PM, Jennifer said:

 

I'm no expert, however I can see it has a trunk and many leaves have been cut. So this calamity began recently. Am I right?

If so, what changed?

Edited May 3, 2019 by GottmitAlex

[NOT A TA]

Another chemical possibility might be if you had a company come in and power wash the walls by the palm. Some use chemicals that can damage certain plants.

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

15 hours ago, NOT A TA said:

Another chemical possibility might be if you had a company come in and power wash the walls by the palm. Some use chemicals that can damage certain plants.

YES!  We had that happen here.  Killed a bunch of stuff, including a beautiful thatch palm.  

[Jennifer]

Thanks a good thought! But we haven't sprayed anything in the yard or power washed anything. And no one splashes water outside of the pool, so it can't be chlorine.

[Dypsisdean]

A long shot - Something I haven't seen mentioned here before. Excess chlorine in the pool can "escape" the pool as a gas and affect surrounding foliage. Some pool service companies that use gas chlorine can sometimes apply it too rapidly and it can "gas out" - and if the wind is right, that can damage plants.

Also - since it is next to that spa - if the chlorine was too high and/or freshly added to the spa, and it was heated and bubbles turned on, then the steam and fumes could affect things as well if the wind happens to take the chlorine laden steam in the wrong direction. High levels of free chlorine gas can be very damaging.