Licuala grandis

[Saara]

18 hours ago, Merlyn said:

@Saara it's fine for fertilizers to be on the surface as long as you are watering the top of the pot.  Bottom watering on palms is usually not a good idea, due to the chances of root rot.  Grandis live in swampy areas, but the water is usually moving.  That's different than sitting in tray of stagnant water.

If your soil pH is around 5.8-6.5 then the iron in the Osmocote is probably not available to the palm.  Adding EDDHA iron is a good bet, any locally sourced brand is totally fine.  Since you have a *possible* root uptake problem, a foliar spray is a good addition.  Just keep in mind that a mineral foliar spray will stain anything it touches, like concrete, tile, wood, etc.  So if you spray it, take the palm out somewhere you can spray without accidentally turning everything under it bright orange! 

Regarding time frame, sooner is obviously better.  But if you have some of the Osmocote 15-9-12 I'd add some of that now and find some EDDHA iron, Langbeinite, and maybe an iron foliar spray soon.  Realistically the new leaf will not grow out normal color, and it may take a couple of months to grow out a normal leaf.  Think of these changes as a long-term solution.  Getting the palm up out of the saucer of water and adding some Osmocote with watering from the top are the best first steps.  Realistically the only thing that could kill a Grandis in 2-3 days is going completely dry.

As always, take my advice with a grain (or handful) of salt.  I don't grow any palms indoors, and am not great at growing up seedlings in pots outdoors.  Most of my nursery area plants survive out of benign neglect.  Hopefully a few others will have suggestions, or correct me if I'm wrong! 

I did find two honorable mention for iron:

Here is on English-speaking   https://www.vplux.fi/fi/product/bionova-missing-link/381253

And Available too in the Helsingin puutarhatarvike near me https://www.helsinginpuutarhatarvike.fi/product/4274/bionova-the-missing-link-025ltr

Should I start using this by spraying this on the leaves first and how much?

So eddeha is something chelating agent?

Need order from internet https://phygenera.de/Fe-EDDHA-Iron-EDDHA-100-g 

When I'm looking for a source of potassium so, Does it matter if it's slow acting or fast acting? it's harder to find grainy slow motion effects and there were some options on the pages of the previous link

 

[Saara]

13 minutes ago, Saara said:

I did find two honorable mention for iron:

Here is on English-speaking   https://www.vplux.fi/fi/product/bionova-missing-link/381253

And Available too in the Helsingin puutarhatarvike near me https://www.helsinginpuutarhatarvike.fi/product/4274/bionova-the-missing-link-025ltr

Should I start using this by spraying this on the leaves first and how much?

So eddeha is something chelating agent?

Need order from internet https://phygenera.de/Fe-EDDHA-Iron-EDDHA-100-g 

When I'm looking for a source of potassium so, Does it matter if it's slow acting or fast acting? it's harder to find grainy slow motion effects and there were some options on the pages of the previous link

 

And https://pavunvarsi.fi/bn-the-missing-link-250ml 

If you translate then you can see that there is Fe 0,25%. I quess these three are same products

 

[Merlyn]

50 minutes ago, Saara said:

I did find two honorable mention for iron:

Here is on English-speaking   https://www.vplux.fi/fi/product/bionova-missing-link/381253

And Available too in the Helsingin puutarhatarvike near me https://www.helsinginpuutarhatarvike.fi/product/4274/bionova-the-missing-link-025ltr

Should I start using this by spraying this on the leaves first and how much?

So eddeha is something chelating agent?

Need order from internet https://phygenera.de/Fe-EDDHA-Iron-EDDHA-100-g 

When I'm looking for a source of potassium so, Does it matter if it's slow acting or fast acting? it's harder to find grainy slow motion effects and there were some options on the pages of the previous link

I had a hard time finding an actual product label for Bionova The Missing Link.  The spray I use is 1% Iron Sulfate and Iron Lignin Sulfonate.  At one point I read that most foliar sprays work well, regardless of the chelating agent.  So if you are sure it's got 0.25% iron as an ingredient then it'll probably work.

EDDHA is one of several forms of iron chelates.  The one you found looks like the one I use, 6% concentration EDDHA.  Here's a similar description of the other chelates.  Some work at low pH, some at high pH, but EDDHA is the broadest range.  https://www.vaniperen.com/story/how-to-choose-an-iron-chelate/

For Potassium, the Langbeinite is a good choice because you can just put a few of granules on the top of the soil and it'll very slowly dissolve over months.  That's a good long-term solution that you can add to your 15-9-12 fertilizer.  A quicker release (in very small doses) is a good choice if your plant is currently showing signs of potassium deficiency.  So if you can find quick release locally, just add a small amount to your watering can regularly.  Keep in mind that the translucent spotting will *not* go away.  The fertilizer just helps new fronds grow out correctly, and prevents new leaf damage.  So even if you had the absolute perfect solution of fertilizer it'll still take a long time for a whole new crown of "perfect" leaves to grow out.

[Saara]

38 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

I had a hard time finding an actual product label for Bionova The Missing Link.  The spray I use is 1% Iron Sulfate and Iron Lignin Sulfonate.  At one point I read that most foliar sprays work well, regardless of the chelating agent.  So if you are sure it's got 0.25% iron as an ingredient then it'll probably work.

EDDHA is one of several forms of iron chelates.  The one you found looks like the one I use, 6% concentration EDDHA.  Here's a similar description of the other chelates.  Some work at low pH, some at high pH, but EDDHA is the broadest range.  https://www.vaniperen.com/story/how-to-choose-an-iron-chelate/

For Potassium, the Langbeinite is a good choice because you can just put a few of granules on the top of the soil and it'll very slowly dissolve over months.  That's a good long-term solution that you can add to your 15-9-12 fertilizer.  A quicker release (in very small doses) is a good choice if your plant is currently showing signs of potassium deficiency.  So if you can find quick release locally, just add a small amount to your watering can regularly.  Keep in mind that the translucent spotting will *not* go away.  The fertilizer just helps new fronds grow out correctly, and prevents new leaf damage.  So even if you had the absolute perfect solution of fertilizer it'll still take a long time for a whole new crown of "perfect" leaves to grow out.

I called the store and they sent a picture. There should probably be more iron🤔. I wonder why the other online store had wrong information.

I think there should be at least this 0,25% for leaves spray this level of deficiency. I may be wrong 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Merlyn]

@Saara it looks like that is intended to be diluted, at a rate of 6mL per 10L of water.  Maybe the other bottle or website has a different dilution rate.  The one I use is 1% iron with a dilution rate of 1.5-3 quarts per 100 gallons.  If I am doing my math correct the Southern Ag is 1% * (1.5-3q) / 400q = 0.00375% to 0.0075% iron.  The Bionova one is 0.037% with a dilution of 6mL per 10,000mL.  So the final concentration should be 0.037% * 6 / 10000 = 0.0000222%.  The only question is whether the 0.037% iron is *after dilution* or *before dilution*.  That's anyone's guess, based on the language of the label.

You could always make your own mix, using the 6% EDDHA iron in water.  Off the top of my head I'm not sure how to calculate dry weight of powder into a liquid spray mix, but it would probably be something very small.  Maybe 1 gram in 1 liter, or something like that.  This label says 1-2lb per acre in 100 gallons, which translates to 0.45-0.9 kg per 378L.  If you had a 1 liter spray bottle that's 1.2-2.4g per liter.  https://assets.greenbook.net/L111738.pdf

 

[Saara]

1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

@Saara it looks like that is intended to be diluted, at a rate of 6mL per 10L of water.  Maybe the other bottle or website has a different dilution rate.  The one I use is 1% iron with a dilution rate of 1.5-3 quarts per 100 gallons.  If I am doing my math correct the Southern Ag is 1% * (1.5-3q) / 400q = 0.00375% to 0.0075% iron.  The Bionova one is 0.037% with a dilution of 6mL per 10,000mL.  So the final concentration should be 0.037% * 6 / 10000 = 0.0000222%.  The only question is whether the 0.037% iron is *after dilution* or *before dilution*.  That's anyone's guess, based on the language of the label.

You could always make your own mix, using the 6% EDDHA iron in water.  Off the top of my head I'm not sure how to calculate dry weight of powder into a liquid spray mix, but it would probably be something very small.  Maybe 1 gram in 1 liter, or something like that.  This label says 1-2lb per acre in 100 gallons, which translates to 0.45-0.9 kg per 378L.  If you had a 1 liter spray bottle that's 1.2-2.4g per liter.  https://assets.greenbook.net/L111738.pdf

 

I was wondering if this would be ok too?

"A ratio of 1:500 (2ml/l) is recommended for severe iron deficiency, and a ratio of 1:1000 (1ml/l) for mild iron deficiency. For maintenance and general fertilization, we recommend a ratio of 1:1500 (0.75 ml/liter).
Note: Canna Iron Plus (Fe) contains 0.06% iron (0.03% Fe-DTPA and 0.03% Fe-EDDHA)." https://www.kotikasvatus.fi/product/canna-mono-iron-1l/

Or just that 6% EDDHA?

It appears that liquid iron supplements contain no more than 0.06% Fe

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Merlyn]

16 minutes ago, Saara said:

I was wondering if this would be ok too?

"A ratio of 1:500 (2ml/l) is recommended for severe iron deficiency, and a ratio of 1:1000 (1ml/l) for mild iron deficiency. For maintenance and general fertilization, we recommend a ratio of 1:1500 (0.75 ml/liter).
Note: Canna Iron Plus (Fe) contains 0.06% iron (0.03% Fe-DTPA and 0.03% Fe-EDDHA)." https://www.kotikasvatus.fi/product/canna-mono-iron-1l/

Or just that 6% EDDHA?

It appears that liquid iron supplements contain no more than 0.06% Fe

For foliar use I think most iron formulations are okay.  So it probably doesn't matter if the mix is iron sufate, EDDHA, DTPA, etc.  If their mix is (full strength) at 0.06% then a 1:500 ratio is a final of 0.00012%.  That's in between the Southern Ag I use and the Bionova one.  It seems reasonable to me.

[Saara]

53 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

For foliar use I think most iron formulations are okay.  So it probably doesn't matter if the mix is iron sufate, EDDHA, DTPA, etc.  If their mix is (full strength) at 0.06% then a 1:500 ratio is a final of 0.00012%.  That's in between the Southern Ag I use and the Bionova one.  It seems reasonable to me.

Ok, this would be a compromise. So to soil and foliar spray.

It has half eddha and this is close to me. And you don't have to wait a couple of days.
That iron supplement is mostly for the soil, and if I can also use it for the leaves, it's a win-win. How should this be dosed?

I already bought a manganese supplement before your advice when someone said there was a lack of it. Can I add it to the soil very little with the first watering if it's okay? I would like it to come into use somehow. However, I try to be careful not to overdose those fertilizers. When I don't know enough about these things, also about how their amounts affect other amounts.

Thank you very much for your help!

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

My palm leaves are turning a lighter green. Some leaves are the same. Pictures without flash.

First I spray the leaves and wait for the soil to dry and then water, after watering I add nutrients. I don't want to water too much and too often. I think my soil gets faster dry with this new pot. Also roots breath more

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

12 minutes ago, Saara said:

My palm leaves are turning a lighter green. Some leaves are the same.

First I spray the leaves and wait for the soil to dry and then water, after watering I add nutrients. I don't want to water too much and too often. I think my soil gets faster dry with this new pot. Also roots breath more

These pictures with flash 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

I found the article about foliage spraying 🤔 https://www.floramax.com/foliar-spraying/

[Saara]

It is also possible to use aquarium fe 🤔 for foliar spray. Some absorb foliage. I will get more information and get back to you. I am not sure if it works or not. (Less strong than this https://www.seachem.com/flourish-iron.php?_ga=2.176253285.1901063871.1693940414-187569218.1693436560&_gac=1.56156633.1693945586.CjwKCAjwo9unBhBTEiwAipC11xy-vOeig1SBH_mcpApO1v07lx7jpoe_bZ3-KvtIyAq_wTUaFmRRJBoCGtQQAvD_BwE&fbclid=IwAR0xz8Skor6jpGZZJs9BC1DfUbQ2MfKDGl5KcpmdiVpMz9_aW4giK04r7pQ )

If it gets too difficult then I just buy the missing link foliar spray, because that is better than nothing. I think that is the easiest.

And I could buy this for soil https://www.kotikasvatus.fi/product/canna-mono-iron-1l/

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

5 hours ago, Merlyn said:

For foliar use I think most iron formulations are okay.  So it probably doesn't matter if the mix is iron sufate, EDDHA, DTPA, etc.  If their mix is (full strength) at 0.06% then a 1:500 ratio is a final of 0.00012%.  That's in between the Southern Ag I use and the Bionova one.  It seems reasonable to me.

I think you are right that most formations are OK, because 

[Saara]

53 minutes ago, Saara said:

I think you are right that most formations are OK, because 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

 I choose this,

 

[Merlyn]

The Canna Mono Iron looks like a good solution for both foliar and soil use.  Some regular fertilizer is a good idea too.  Hopefully having the bottom of the pot out of the water will help cure the nutrient uptake issue.  Just don't let it totally dry out with the new pot/bag watering setup.

[Saara]

17 hours ago, Merlyn said:

For foliar use I think most iron formulations are okay.  So it probably doesn't matter if the mix is iron sufate, EDDHA, DTPA, etc.  If their mix is (full strength) at 0.06% then a 1:500 ratio is a final of 0.00012%.  That's in between the Southern Ag I use and the Bionova one.  It seems reasonable to me.

Should I use that 0.75ml/L mix on the leaves? Spray both sides leaves?

I found somewhere on the internet that. But it is strange that there is a slight difference in those texts and the bottle.

This bottle:

Edited September 7, 2023 by Saara

[Merlyn]

It's odd that they have so many different versions of the same 1L bottle.  In your case I'd think the 0.75mL/L dilution is fine.  I'd do a light mist on the leaves (less is safer) and add a small splash of it into your regular watering can.  I'd also add some of the 15-9-12 to the top of the pot and water over it.  The new frond in your photo yesterday looks a bit dried out.  With your new pot/bag setup you may need to water more often to make sure it does not dry out.

[Saara]

28 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

It's odd that they have so many different versions of the same 1L bottle.  In your case I'd think the 0.75mL/L dilution is fine.  I'd do a light mist on the leaves (less is safer) and add a small splash of it into your regular watering can.  I'd also add some of the 15-9-12 to the top of the pot and water over it.  The new frond in your photo yesterday looks a bit dried out.  With your new pot/bag setup you may need to water more often to make sure it does not dry out.

Thank you!

[Saara]

On 9/7/2023 at 4:52 PM, Merlyn said:

It's odd that they have so many different versions of the same 1L bottle.  In your case I'd think the 0.75mL/L dilution is fine.  I'd do a light mist on the leaves (less is safer) and add a small splash of it into your regular watering can.  I'd also add some of the 15-9-12 to the top of the pot and water over it.  The new frond in your photo yesterday looks a bit dried out.  With your new pot/bag setup you may need to water more often to make sure it does not dry out.

How often should I use an iron and potassium fertilizer?

[Merlyn]

5 hours ago, Saara said:

How often should I use an iron and potassium fertilizer?

I'd do a small amount every other week.  Be wary of leaf burn if you get too much iron on them.  If it's only an iron deficiency then the new frond should start greening up relatively soon.  If it does not green up then it might have something else going on.

[Saara]

On 9/12/2023 at 3:13 AM, Merlyn said:

I'd do a small amount every other week.  Be wary of leaf burn if you get too much iron on them.  If it's only an iron deficiency then the new frond should start greening up relatively soon.  If it does not green up then it might have something else going on.

In some leaves the effect of iron was a little visible and I don't know if it is visible in the lightest leaves.

I noticed now that one of my old very simple seaweed extract contains mainly potassium (0.6%) (no iron at all) and it can also be sprayed on the leaves. Better to find out late than never.

Thanks for your help! This is interesting and
I have learned something new. Now I see that my other palms also have nutrient deficiencies. I lowered the ph of one palm tree because it was pretty high (8). I have neglected to fertilize those palm trees a bit.

To be continued...

 

 

Edited September 15, 2023 by Saara

[ny1719]

Hello: In March 2023  I purchased a licuala grandis seedling at the Leu Gardens plant sale in Orlando, Fl. I keep it in a Florida room where there is filtered sunlight. I mist it 3 times a week and water it once a week with 16oz water if dry. It was doing fine until yesterday where the leaves just withered together and if I pull on the top(some call it the heart) of the plant it just comes out. I believe that means it died. Does anyone know why this happened and what I am doing wrong?  I also had purchased Licuala seeds from Ebay and none of those took either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I guess I have to wait for the next plant sale in March 2024 to get a new one.  Thank you

[Saara]

46 minutes ago, ny1719 said:

Hello: In March 2023  I purchased a licuala grandis seedling at the Leu Gardens plant sale in Orlando, Fl. I keep it in a Florida room where there is filtered sunlight. I mist it 3 times a week and water it once a week with 16oz water if dry. It was doing fine until yesterday where the leaves just withered together and if I pull on the top(some call it the heart) of the plant it just comes out. I believe that means it died. Does anyone know why this happened and what I am doing wrong?  I also had purchased Licuala seeds from Ebay and none of those took either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I guess I have to wait for the next plant sale in March 2024 to get a new one.  Thank you

What soilmix? 

I wouldn't mist 

[ny1719]

I used the following soil recommended by a Florida master Gardener from the University of Florida:

Pro-Line C/B

A mix of Canadian sphagnum peat, processed pine bark fines, coarse perlite and medium vermiculite. C/B is geared toward growing flowering plants. The medium texture of the mix holds moisture well. A true, all-purpose mix.

C/B is an appropriate soil mix for: Flowering and foliage plants, hanging baskets and bedding plants.

Average density 14-16 lbs/cubic foot. I read online to mist 2-3 times a week, water 16oz. if dry every week. If moist don't water. The main fond came right out

of the middle of the plant with one that was starting to grow. I was told when the heart of the plant comes right out it is dead.

[Saara]

On 9/19/2023 at 2:48 AM, ny1719 said:

I used the following soil recommended by a Florida master Gardener from the University of Florida:

Pro-Line C/B

A mix of Canadian sphagnum peat, processed pine bark fines, coarse perlite and medium vermiculite. C/B is geared toward growing flowering plants. The medium texture of the mix holds moisture well. A true, all-purpose mix.

C/B is an appropriate soil mix for: Flowering and foliage plants, hanging baskets and bedding plants.

Average density 14-16 lbs/cubic foot. I read online to mist 2-3 times a week, water 16oz. if dry every week. If moist don't water. The main fond came right out

of the middle of the plant with one that was starting to grow. I was told when the heart of the plant comes right out it is dead.

Also a photo of your plant when it was alive would be great.

Maybe you can find information here:

 

And some other palms have soilmix 50/50 and Pal Meir soilmixes 

Edited September 21, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

On 9/12/2023 at 3:13 AM, Merlyn said:

I'd do a small amount every other week.  Be wary of leaf burn if you get too much iron on them.  If it's only an iron deficiency then the new frond should start greening up relatively soon.  If it does not green up then it might have something else going on.

Is this OK? I ordered predators to reduce the number of springtails (just for case). At least there is no improvement in the plant yet. I will update later. Maybe I should have put the maximum amount of iron 2ml/l in the soil 🤔. One leaf is more pale (maybe 🤔?).

I could use rainwater for watering, if possible.

Edited September 23, 2023 by Saara

[Saara]

5 minutes ago, Saara said:

Is this OK? I ordered predators to reduce the number of springtails (just for case). At least there is no improvement in the plant yet. I will update later. Maybe I should have put the maximum amount of iron 2ml/l in the soil 🤔. One leaf is more pale.

I could use rainwater for watering, if possible.

Other stem is growing 

[Merlyn]

The new spear on that one looks really good, and the improvised tray spacers should work fine.  IIRC springtails are typically found inexcessively wet soil and eat decaying organics and rotten roots.  I have not dealt with them as a pest, though I read that they do not normally damage live plants.

[Saara]

 

Thanks for your help!
All the newest and uppermost leaves darkened first.
Now all the lower leaves (5) have started to turn not good. Is there a magnesium deficiency?
Within two weeks, I sprayed two different foliar fertilizers carefully and mostly on the lowest leaves. Did I spray too much stimulant foliar fertilizer?

What fertilizer deficiency is bothering this seedling below? Magnesium? The purpose is to plant in a better pot.

Thanks a lot!

Edited March 20, 2024 by Saara
Specific

[Saara]

Would it still be better to transfer outside part of it (Licuala grandis) to this growth medium, because the current one now contains carbon and it is said to raise the pH? I didn't think about it then

Edited March 20, 2024 by Saara

[Saara]

On 9/23/2023 at 10:08 PM, Merlyn said:

The new spear on that one looks really good, and the improvised tray spacers should work fine.  IIRC springtails are typically found inexcessively wet soil and eat decaying organics and rotten roots.  I have not dealt with them as a pest, though I read that they do not normally damage live plants.

I have some problem with this palm again? Can you help?

 

[Harry’s Palms]

Licuala is not a good candidate for a house plant. You did very well keeping it alive as long as you did but inevitably it will succumb to low humidity and light . They also like warm temperatures. Harry

[Saara]

27 minutes ago, Harry’s Palms said:

Licuala is not a good candidate for a house plant. You did very well keeping it alive as long as you did but inevitably it will succumb to low humidity and light . They also like warm temperatures. Harry

Thank you for your opinion. I had to rearrange the plant lights 1,5 months ago and these affected leaves have not received as much light as before. Today I got a much taller floor lamp, and I thought I'd put it on this plant

[Merlyn]

Overall I'd say it looks pretty good!  With that number of good green leaves, it's not surprising that it has some (relatively) minor problems.  My Grandis in the ground outside doesn't hold that many good fronds.  A couple of thoughts:

• The new fronds are coming out fairly clean with only a few translucent splotches and solid green color.  To me that means it does not have a problem with iron or manganese.
• The light green / translucent spots look like they could be either nitrogen or potassium deficiency, but it doesn't look severe to me.  I'd probably increase your liquid fertilizer a little bit, maybe +20% and see if that helps the new fronds come out cleaner.  The oldest fronds getting pale green is normally a nitrogen deficiency.
• The oldest fronds getting brown tips could be not quite enough water, but normally magnesium deficiency doesn't cause brown tips until it's pretty severe.  The "striped" nature of the light green spots *could* be magnesium deficiency, but usually I think it turns yellow instead of light green.

The small plant in the last picture looks like it needs potassium, magnesium, and water.  The carbon raising pH in a pot might not be a bad thing, because a common issue with potted palms is the soil becomes too acidic after a few years.  I actually tried adding Sakrete Paver Base to my nursery mix.  It's crushed limestone gravel (calcium carbonate), and probably increased the pH too much.  I have not tried using biochar, or anything like that.  If you get out of the "ideal" range of around 6.5 (for most palms) then you could end up with some iron, manganese, or boron problems.  I think if you added a *lot* of biochar then that could be a problem.  A small amount could be useful to counteract increasing soil acidity over time, and add available potassium and other nutrients.  Keep in mind that's just a guess on my part, as I don't grow palms indoor and only do seedlings in pots.

[Saara]

On 3/23/2024 at 3:16 AM, Merlyn said:

Overall I'd say it looks pretty good!  With that number of good green leaves, it's not surprising that it has some (relatively) minor problems.  My Grandis in the ground outside doesn't hold that many good fronds.  A couple of thoughts:

• The new fronds are coming out fairly clean with only a few translucent splotches and solid green color.  To me that means it does not have a problem with iron or manganese.
• The light green / translucent spots look like they could be either nitrogen or potassium deficiency, but it doesn't look severe to me.  I'd probably increase your liquid fertilizer a little bit, maybe +20% and see if that helps the new fronds come out cleaner.  The oldest fronds getting pale green is normally a nitrogen deficiency.
• The oldest fronds getting brown tips could be not quite enough water, but normally magnesium deficiency doesn't cause brown tips until it's pretty severe.  The "striped" nature of the light green spots *could* be magnesium deficiency, but usually I think it turns yellow instead of light green.

The small plant in the last picture looks like it needs potassium, magnesium, and water.  The carbon raising pH in a pot might not be a bad thing, because a common issue with potted palms is the soil becomes too acidic after a few years.  I actually tried adding Sakrete Paver Base to my nursery mix.  It's crushed limestone gravel (calcium carbonate), and probably increased the pH too much.  I have not tried using biochar, or anything like that.  If you get out of the "ideal" range of around 6.5 (for most palms) then you could end up with some iron, manganese, or boron problems.  I think if you added a *lot* of biochar then that could be a problem.  A small amount could be useful to counteract increasing soil acidity over time, and add available potassium and other nutrients.  Keep in mind that's just a guess on my part, as I don't grow palms indoor and only do seedlings in pots.

Thank you!

Now my palm tree looks like this. Still no new growth on the other palm in the same pot

[Saara]

On 3/23/2024 at 3:16 AM, Merlyn said:

Overall I'd say it looks pretty good!  With that number of good green leaves, it's not surprising that it has some (relatively) minor problems.  My Grandis in the ground outside doesn't hold that many good fronds.  A couple of thoughts:

• The new fronds are coming out fairly clean with only a few translucent splotches and solid green color.  To me that means it does not have a problem with iron or manganese.
• The light green / translucent spots look like they could be either nitrogen or potassium deficiency, but it doesn't look severe to me.  I'd probably increase your liquid fertilizer a little bit, maybe +20% and see if that helps the new fronds come out cleaner.  The oldest fronds getting pale green is normally a nitrogen deficiency.
• The oldest fronds getting brown tips could be not quite enough water, but normally magnesium deficiency doesn't cause brown tips until it's pretty severe.  The "striped" nature of the light green spots *could* be magnesium deficiency, but usually I think it turns yellow instead of light green.

The small plant in the last picture looks like it needs potassium, magnesium, and water.  The carbon raising pH in a pot might not be a bad thing, because a common issue with potted palms is the soil becomes too acidic after a few years.  I actually tried adding Sakrete Paver Base to my nursery mix.  It's crushed limestone gravel (calcium carbonate), and probably increased the pH too much.  I have not tried using biochar, or anything like that.  If you get out of the "ideal" range of around 6.5 (for most palms) then you could end up with some iron, manganese, or boron problems.  I think if you added a *lot* of biochar then that could be a problem.  A small amount could be useful to counteract increasing soil acidity over time, and add available potassium and other nutrients.  Keep in mind that's just a guess on my part, as I don't grow palms indoor and only do seedlings in pots.

Other small palm now. 

I have to move the Palms further from the south window and put more plant lights when that window is drafty when the seals in that opening window don't stay. I do it every year 

[Saara]

On 3/23/2024 at 3:16 AM, Merlyn said:

Overall I'd say it looks pretty good!  With that number of good green leaves, it's not surprising that it has some (relatively) minor problems.  My Grandis in the ground outside doesn't hold that many good fronds.  A couple of thoughts:

• The new fronds are coming out fairly clean with only a few translucent splotches and solid green color.  To me that means it does not have a problem with iron or manganese.
• The light green / translucent spots look like they could be either nitrogen or potassium deficiency, but it doesn't look severe to me.  I'd probably increase your liquid fertilizer a little bit, maybe +20% and see if that helps the new fronds come out cleaner.  The oldest fronds getting pale green is normally a nitrogen deficiency.
• The oldest fronds getting brown tips could be not quite enough water, but normally magnesium deficiency doesn't cause brown tips until it's pretty severe.  The "striped" nature of the light green spots *could* be magnesium deficiency, but usually I think it turns yellow instead of light green.

The small plant in the last picture looks like it needs potassium, magnesium, and water.  The carbon raising pH in a pot might not be a bad thing, because a common issue with potted palms is the soil becomes too acidic after a few years.  I actually tried adding Sakrete Paver Base to my nursery mix.  It's crushed limestone gravel (calcium carbonate), and probably increased the pH too much.  I have not tried using biochar, or anything like that.  If you get out of the "ideal" range of around 6.5 (for most palms) then you could end up with some iron, manganese, or boron problems.  I think if you added a *lot* of biochar then that could be a problem.  A small amount could be useful to counteract increasing soil acidity over time, and add available potassium and other nutrients.  Keep in mind that's just a guess on my part, as I don't grow palms indoor and only do seedlings in pots.

What are these spots?

Potassium deficiency or too close to the light? 

[Merlyn]

@Saara the big Grandis looks awesome!  It's a shame the other one in the pot isn't growing new spears, at this point it probably won't.  Eventually the old leaves will die off and you'll have to carefully cut off the remains. 

For your new plant, I would also guess Potassium.  The typical signs are on the oldest leaves first.  They generally start as translucent orange/yellow dots.  When it gets more severe you'll see dead spots on the leaves, especially at the tips on the oldest fronds.  Since it seems pretty evenly distributed I'd guess Potassium and not Magnesium.  Usually Magnesium has yellowed edges on the old leaves first.  If you have some Langbeinite/Sulpomag/KMag that might be a good long-term addition to the fertilizer.