Butia Paraguayensis X Syagrus

[Peachs]

Cold resistance similar to a standard MulePalm?

8b?

como ver imagenes jpg

[Scott W]

I would think so as most Butia have relatively the same cold hardiness.

There's some debate on Butia eriospatha x Syagrus Romanzoffiana Santa Catarina being the most cold hardy cross, but there's no real data to back it up.  Not to mention so many variables on where people have them planted, location, micro climate, etc.

 

[Peachs]

6 minutes ago, Scott W said:

I would think so as most Butia have relatively the same cold hardiness.

There's some debate on Butia eriospatha x Syagrus Romanzoffiana Santa Catarina being the most cold hardy cross, but there's no real data to back it up.  Not to mention so many variables on where people have them planted, location, micro climate, etc.

 

Thanks, I thought its cold resistance was lower, around 24F. As for growth, do you think it is faster than capitata/odorata?

[Scott W]

In my opinion it's growth rate should be about the same as a Odorata/Syagrus romanzoffiana cross.  Again, for the cold hardiness, for most Butia it's always a range.  I've seen both odorata and paraguayensis listed as a low of 15f, and with the common Syagrus romanzoffiana a low of 22-24f I'd still say this cross should be good into the upper teens.  This thread here mentions paraguayensis down to 24f with no damage...

https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/66436-butia-paraguayensis/

Also, is this going in the ground?

If so, just protect it until it gets too big to do so.

If not, then cold hardiness wouldn't necessarily be a factor as you'd be able to bring it in during extreme cold events.

[Peachs]

55 minutes ago, Scott W said:

In my opinion it's growth rate should be about the same as a Odorata/Syagrus romanzoffiana cross.  Again, for the cold hardiness, for most Butia it's always a range.  I've seen both odorata and paraguayensis listed as a low of 15f, and with the common Syagrus romanzoffiana a low of 22-24f I'd still say this cross should be good into the upper teens.  This thread here mentions paraguayensis down to 24f with no damage...

https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/66436-butia-paraguayensis/

Also, is this going in the ground?

If so, just protect it until it gets too big to do so.

If not, then cold hardiness wouldn't necessarily be a factor as you'd be able to bring it in during extreme cold events.

It would be planted in the ground. The minimum temperature, with continental climate (dry), is 18F (that I remember).
 

Is there any way to detect if it was a mistake and it is a hybrid with Capitata?

[Scott W]

34 minutes ago, Peachs said:

Is there any way to detect if it was a mistake and it is a hybrid with Capitata?

 

That would only be possible with genetic analysis, something the majority of us are not equipped to do.  I know Dr Larry Noblick @ Montgomery Botanical Gardens has done research on leaf dissection to determine specific Butia species, but not sure on how hybrids play into it.

[Peachs]

29 minutes ago, Scott W said:

 

That would only be possible with genetic analysis, something the majority of us are not equipped to do.  I know Dr Larry Noblick @ Montgomery Botanical Gardens has done research on leaf dissection to determine specific Butia species, but not sure on how hybrids play into it.

Ok. As for the temperature you think without problems any of the 2 species? 18F in dry climate (minimums).

[Fusca]

41 minutes ago, Peachs said:

Ok. As for the temperature you think without problems any of the 2 species? 18F in dry climate (minimums).

I agree with Scott - it should be similar to a standard mule in cold hardiness.  My experience with them in 9 years in Texas is zero damage with temperatures above 20°F unprotected and only minimal foliar damage at 20°.  But I would protect your palm for temperatures below 30° its first winter in the ground.  I had a relatively young 7' mule survive last February's freeze of 9°F and 13°F on consecutive nights.  Now it looks very similar to what it looked like before the freeze.

Edited January 4, 2022 by Fusca

[Peachs]

34 minutes ago, Fusca said:

I agree with Scott - it should be similar to a standard mule in cold hardiness.  My experience with them in 9 years in Texas is zero damage with temperatures above 20°F unprotected and only minimal foliar damage at 20°.  But I would protect your palm for temperatures below 30° its first winter in the ground.  I had a relatively young 7' mule survive last February's freeze of 9°F and 13°F on consecutive nights.  Now it looks very similar to what it looked like before the freeze.

Thank you!