Butia Yaytay x Jubaea in Raleigh NC Zone 7b

[knikfar]

Finally got my butia yaytay x jubaea in the ground today. I know I'll have to protect it from cold at some point. But I hope its able to still grow big and strong. 

[Cevven]

Good pics bro! Now, note that Raleigh, even at the cooler, higher piedmont int'l airport station, its a solid 8A, not 7B (91-20, mean min is 12'F) - even though we have zone 7 winters from time to time, it's very rare for Raleigh to go 10'F and it definitely doesn't happen on most year. To get go below 20'F in the winter is very far from frequent. 

[Allen]

50 minutes ago, Cevven said:

Good pics bro! Now, note that Raleigh, even at the cooler, higher piedmont int'l airport station, its a solid 8A, not 7B (91-20, mean min is 12'F) - even though we have zone 7 winters from time to time, it's very rare for Raleigh to go 10'F and it definitely doesn't happen on most year. To get go below 20'F in the winter is very far from frequent. 

Raleigh Airport

Min °F	Date	Min °C
20	January 30, 2021	-7
20	December 26, 2020	-7
17	January 22, 2019 +	-8
4	January 07, 2018	-16
9	January 09, 2017	-13
15	February 14, 2016	-9
7	February 20, 2015	-14
7	January 30, 2014	-14
18	February 18, 2013 +	-8
19	January 04, 2012	-7
16	January 23, 2011	-9
15	January 11, 2010	-9

[Allen]

 

On 3/3/2022 at 12:29 PM, knikfar said:

Finally got my butia yaytay x jubaea in the ground today. I know I'll have to protect it from cold at some point. But I hope its able to still grow big and strong. 

 

Looking good!

Edited March 5, 2022 by Allen

[WSimpson]

What temperature is it hardy to ?

[GoatLockerGuns]

1 hour ago, Cevven said:

Good pics bro! Now, note that Raleigh, even at the cooler, higher piedmont int'l airport station, its a solid 8A, not 7B (91-20, mean min is 12'F) - even though we have zone 7 winters from time to time, it's very rare for Raleigh to go 10'F and it definitely doesn't happen on most year. To get go below 20'F in the winter is very far from frequent. 

WCK....(Wet Cold Kills)...everyone on Palmtalk here in Texas faced that inevitability last winter (some still have PTSD from it).  The 30 year average (12F) would suggest a zone 8a; however, I would not use my USDA Hardiness Zone rating (8b, within a mile or so of the zone 9a border) as the sole determinate for landscaping (palms or otherwise).  Particularly, if I were paying good money for the palms/plants that I am planting. I just had a juvenile Jubaea chilensis that experienced spear pull, bud rot, and eventual death from a low of 21F in early February.  It was not the overnight low that killed it per se, it was the accompanying ice event that lasted for two solid days before completely thawing.  According to weather.gov (trust that data at your own risk) Raleigh has reportedly experienced yearly lows below 10F 7 years out of 30 (+1 if you count the 10F year), and reportedly experienced yearly lows below 20F 28 years out of 30 (+2 if you count the two 20F years).  This year so far the low has been reported at 15F.  That does not seem "far from frequent" to me.  The minimum lows for a particular year aside, I think other important questions to ask are: i) how many other lows occurred that year that were at, or slightly above, the reported yearly low; ii) how long did those freeze events, or others, last where the temperatures did not climb above freezing (i.e., how many days below 32F); and iii) how many of those freeze events involved precipitation (e.g., freezing rain, sleet, snow, etc.).  Also, as I learned the hard way last winter, a USDA Hardiness Zone rating (which is just an average) does not mean squat when you actually experience temperatures below that rating (I experienced multiple days at zone 7b temperatures living in a solid zone 8b).  It only takes one event to destroy years of successful growth.

[knikfar]

5 hours ago, Will Simpson said:

What temperature is it hardy to ?

Excellent question. I haven’t been able to find any consistent temperature online. I’m guessing at least to around 12F like a regular butia. But I’m hoping lower. 

[knikfar]

5 hours ago, GoatLockerGuns said:

WCK....(Wet Cold Kills)...everyone on Palmtalk here in Texas faced that inevitability last winter (some still have PTSD from it).  The 30 year average (12F) would suggest a zone 8a; however, I would not use my USDA Hardiness Zone rating (8b, within a mile or so of the zone 9a border) as the sole determinate for landscaping (palms or otherwise).  Particularly, if I were paying good money for the palms/plants that I am planting. I just had a juvenile Jubaea chilensis that experienced spear pull, bud rot, and eventual death from a low of 21F in early February.  It was not the overnight low that killed it per se, it was the accompanying ice event that lasted for two solid days before completely thawing.  According to weather.gov (trust that data at your own risk) Raleigh has reportedly experienced yearly lows below 10F 7 years out of 30 (+1 if you count the 10F year), and reportedly experienced yearly lows below 20F 28 years out of 30 (+2 if you count the two 20F years).  This year so far the low has been reported at 15F.  That does not seem "far from frequent" to me.  The minimum lows for a particular year aside, I think other important questions to ask are: i) how many other lows occurred that year that were at, or slightly above, the reported yearly low; ii) how long did those freeze events, or others, last where the temperatures did not climb above freezing (i.e., how many days below 32F); and iii) how many of those freeze events involved precipitation (e.g., freezing rain, sleet, snow, etc.).  Also, as I learned the hard way last winter, a USDA Hardiness Zone rating (which is just an average) does not mean squat when you actually experience temperatures below that rating (I experienced multiple days at zone 7b temperatures living in a solid zone 8b).  It only takes one event to destroy years of successful growth.

Exactly. That’s why I’ve done my best to plant in the driest, most protected microclimates I can. And I’m planting knowing I’ll have to protect and also knowing I may not always be able to protect or protect enough. It’s a gamble for sure. Most of my palms are varieties I don’t have to worry about like regular sabals, Sabal minor, chamerops and windmills. I have one butia and one butia hybrid. Those are the only two I’m committing to work on keeping alive since the odds are stacked against them

[GoatLockerGuns]

30 minutes ago, knikfar said:

Most of my palms are varieties I don’t have to worry about like regular sabals, Sabal minor, chamerops and windmills. I have one butia and one butia hybrid. Those are the only two I’m committing to work on keeping alive since the odds are stacked against them

Sound plan; good luck. 

My Nannorrhops ritchieana, Serenoa repens "Green" form, Sabal minor, Sabal palmetto, and Sabal mexicana sailed through 7b temperatures with no damage and very little protection (basically, frost cloth).  My Brahea armata, Butia ordata, Chamaerops humilis, Serenoa repens "Silver" form, and Trachycarpus fortunei were a little more sensitive.  They all experienced defoliation and spear pull, but eventually recovered.  They looked like ass for quite awhile though (contrary to popular opinion, aesthetics matters; sometimes keeping a palm alive just because I can isn't all that appealing to me).  Everything else in the yard was pretty much toast.  Mature Phoenix canariensis around here seemed to do pretty well.  Mature Washingtonia sps. were hit or miss, but there were many notable survivors.  Most Phoenix dactylifera around here bit the dust.

[Geoff58]

I had two healthy regular butias in Jackson, MS.  Although we are on the border of 8A and 8B, a few years ago we had a week with lows around 15F and highs in the mid 20s. The first day of this freeze we had snow and sleet which did not melt for more than a week. My butias were covered with ice and snow and were killed. (A few around town survived, though). Hopefully your crossbreed will be hardier.

[Cevven]

6 hours ago, GoatLockerGuns said:

WCK....(Wet Cold Kills)...everyone on Palmtalk here in Texas faced that inevitability last winter (some still have PTSD from it).  The 30 year average (12F) would suggest a zone 8a; however, I would not use my USDA Hardiness Zone rating (8b, within a mile or so of the zone 9a border) as the sole determinate for landscaping (palms or otherwise).  Particularly, if I were paying good money for the palms/plants that I am planting. I just had a juvenile Jubaea chilensis that experienced spear pull, bud rot, and eventual death from a low of 21F in early February.  It was not the overnight low that killed it per se, it was the accompanying ice event that lasted for two solid days before completely thawing.  According to weather.gov (trust that data at your own risk) Raleigh has reportedly experienced yearly lows below 10F 7 years out of 30 (+1 if you count the 10F year), and reportedly experienced yearly lows below 20F 28 years out of 30 (+2 if you count the two 20F years).  This year so far the low has been reported at 15F.  That does not seem "far from frequent" to me.  The minimum lows for a particular year aside, I think other important questions to ask are: i) how many other lows occurred that year that were at, or slightly above, the reported yearly low; ii) how long did those freeze events, or others, last where the temperatures did not climb above freezing (i.e., how many days below 32F); and iii) how many of those freeze events involved precipitation (e.g., freezing rain, sleet, snow, etc.).  Also, as I learned the hard way last winter, a USDA Hardiness Zone rating (which is just an average) does not mean squat when you actually experience temperatures below that rating (I experienced multiple days at zone 7b temperatures living in a solid zone 8b).  It only takes one event to destroy years of successful growth.

All I was doing was simply correcting the guy making the post that Raleigh is NOT zone 8A based on the hardiness system using 1991-2020 data to calculate the annual mean temp, which is true. Now, I agree with you on the fact just because you live in zone 8B, doesn't mean EVERY year it will be a zone 8B winter - and I think no one will disagree with you on that.  Also, temps in the teens are NOT frequent at all even though it goes under 20'F at least once most years (zone 9 winters are rare here) . If it does go under 20'F one year in Raleigh, it may happen once or twice in a year at the most - that's not frequent, nowhere near it. Even the mean min temp tables you and Allen posted (which I seen both numerous times) still doesn't disprove my point that most years don't go below 10'F. From the early 90's till now, you can easily see mean mins of most years were 10'F and up.  From 1992 to 2022 based on the chart you posted in response to my comment, 24 years had a mean min equal to or greater than 10'F and only 7 had mean mins below 10'F (as you also pointed out) - so that means most years, at least in the last 30 years, didn't go below 10'F.  Based on the chart you posted, between 2000 and beginning of 2014, Raleigh hasn't recorded temps below 10'F at all - fourteen years total. 

Now with all this being said,  I sincerely agree with everything you said about how this hardiness thing works - I really liked how you explained it. I fully understand that there are plenty of other factors other than the minimum mean temperature when it comes finding the hardiness of plants.  Addition to moisture and heat zones, things like soil type play a role too, obviously.

Also note that this is why I tell people to plant zone colder. I know that's not easy to accept because I'm a palm lover myself and the temptation to zone push is strong, so I get it. I may never get over it myself because how annoying the Cfa climates are in the Southeast US - quite continental climatically and high winter variability with the temps. You have places in Europe, FAR north of us here in the southern US, that can grow way more as subtropical vegetation than we can - so I understand the stress you have in TX because it's a legit warm subtropical climate there, but like Raleigh, it's highly variable in the winter because of the tendency for the mid-latitude to dip in the Eastern half of North America and for the strong potential for the polar vortex to dip to subtropical latitudes during negative AO. 

Edited March 6, 2022 by Cevven

[GoatLockerGuns]

1 hour ago, Cevven said:

Based on the chart you posted, between 2000 and beginning of 2014, Raleigh hasn't reported or recording temps below 10'F at all - fourteen years. 

Yeah, I guess "frequency" is rather subjective.  Around here, a year with a one day low in the upper teens Fahrenheit, and people lose their minds.  A year with a day below 10F (like last year..two days actually), and people straight up trip. 

I concur with your assessment of averages; your logic is definitely sound.  I just personally do not think that averages should be one's sole determinant in a risk vs return decision to pay good money for a particular palm.  If you have high hopes for planting a palm supposedly rated for a certain USDA Hardiness Zone (that also happens to be the same as your area's rating), then you run a high risk of being seriously disappointed if you plant it based off a Hardiness Zone assessment alone.  And that is what is comes down to for me...risk management.  I grow most of my palms from seed, so I incur little risk if a freak cold spell comes through and wipes some out (well, little risk to my wallet, my pride on the other hand...).  Many people do not do that, or do not have that luxury, and buy their palms from big box stores that just want to sell them palms.  A 10 year trend...a 30 year trend...these time periods mean little in the larger climatological perspective.  Anyone that thinks they know what the next 10 or 30 years will bring in terms of temperature, precipitation, etc., doesn't really know. 

I was really only cautioning @knikfar on two primary points; namely, i) if you have a particular recorded historic low in your area, then it could happen again, baseline average or not (I mean, we just experienced a "historic" low here in San Antonio (zone 7b territory), and our chart's yearly lows look way better over the last 30 years than the Raleigh chart); and ii) the U.S. East Coast is notorious for wet cold events (freezing rain probably being the worst), and you should not just consider temperature lows (averages or otherwise) into your risk decision.  When determining the general cold hardiness for palms, most ratings (which are not official anyway from what I can tell) are given with a Mediterranean climate in mind, and do not really take into account wet cold events.  Washingtonia filifera, for example, are cold hardy to overnight lows in the teens Fahrenheit (easily) in their natural habitat (i.e., the Mojave Desert and environs); however, they also normally experience dry cold events overnight, with temperatures quickly warming up above 32F during the day.  That type of scenario is not as common in the Southeast, and a Washingtonia filifera will really struggle with an ice event and multiple days below 32F.

My advice is to think at least one zone below your "official" rating when spending good money on "show piece" palms for your yard.  Use seed grown (or cheap seedlings) for more "experimental" plantings.  If I lived in Raleigh or a similar climate, I would be planting Sabals, Sabals, Sabals....

[Allen]

2 hours ago, Cevven said:

Also note that this is why I tell people to plant zone colder. I know that's not easy to accept because I'm a palm lover myself and the temptation to zone push is strong, so I get it. I may never get over it myself because how annoying the Cfa climates are in the Southeast US - quite continental climatically and high winter variability with the temps. 

What palms are you currently pushing and how long have you been doing it?  

[Cevven]

3 hours ago, Allen said:

What palms are you currently pushing and how long have you been doing it?  

For about a year but I planted a few on someone else's property, not where I live.  Just sabal minor and a couple of yuccas, which are very hardy here. I haven't physically zone pushed yet. However, I would LOVE to grow certain palms here without protecting them but I know it won't work out. I would have to move. I don't generally recommend NC for palm lovers because you are so limited to what you can grow here not due avg temps but the mean mins and how cold it COULD get - and as GoatLocked said, you can't really go by USDA hardiness zone alone. I read that USDA don't plan to make another map (they feel the 2012 is sufficient indefinitely and it took 22 for them to update that one only to use years 1976 to 2005 for data instead of 1981 to 2010 climate normals) so I don't hold my breath them to make a hardiness zone map for the 1991-2020 data. They have a plant heat zone map they didn't even update since 1997! 

[SailorBold]

17 hours ago, knikfar said:

Excellent question. I haven’t been able to find any consistent temperature online. I’m guessing at least to around 12F like a regular butia. But I’m hoping lower. 

I'd rate it much lower...to 5f..

Quick dips to 10f will not damage the leaves or spear.. below that it gets iffy (spear hardy tho).. it is a very hardy palm... My bxj always has a thick meaty spear on it consisting of 3-4 unopened fronds. I suspect if you get spear pull on your butias.. you will not get the same on the hybrid..its stronger than a butias.

[knikfar]

21 minutes ago, SailorBold said:

I'd rate it much lower...to 5f..

Quick dips to 10f will not damage the leaves or spear.. below that it gets iffy (spear hardy tho).. it is a very hardy palm... My bxj always has a thick meaty spear on it consisting of 3-4 unopened fronds. I suspect if you get spear pull on your butias.. you will not get the same on the hybrid..its stronger than a butias.

That’s my hope! 5F or lower does happen here but it’s rare. And doesn’t last long when it does. So I can certainly plan on protecting it through those events, at least until it becomes monster size

[Cevven]

15 hours ago, GoatLockerGuns said:

Really only cautioning @knikfar on two primary points; namely, i) if you have a particular recorded historic low in your area, then it could happen again, baseline average or not (I mean, we just experienced a "historic" low here in San Antonio (zone 7b territory), and our chart's yearly lows look way better over the last 30 years than the Raleigh chart); and ii) the U.S. East Coast is notorious for wet cold events (freezing rain probably being the worst), and you should not just consider temperature lows (averages or otherwise) into your risk decision.  When determining the general cold hardiness for palms, most ratings (which are not official anyway from what I can tell) are given with a Mediterranean climate in mind, and do not really take into account wet cold events.  Washingtonia filifera, for example, are cold hardy to overnight lows in the teens Fahrenheit (easily) in their natural habitat (i.e., the Mojave Desert and environs); however, they also normally experience dry cold events overnight, with temperatures quickly warming up above 32F during the day.  That type of scenario is not as common in the Southeast, and a Washingtonia filifera will really struggle with an ice event and multiple days below 32F.

My advice is to think at least one zone below your "official" rating when spending good money on "show piece" palms for your yard.  Use seed grown (or cheap seedlings) for more "experimental" plantings.  If I lived in Raleigh or a similar climate, I would be planting Sabals, Sabals, Sabals....

@GoatLockerGuns I totally agree with everything said here. Now as far the Washingtonia Filifera example, you are absolutely correct, drier climates you find in the SW can get cold at night but quickly warm up in the day and it's a 'dry cold' obviously. Will a Washingtonia Filifera will be hardy somewhere like Raleigh, definitely so at first glance but given these numerous negative AO events we had in the last decade, the long term survival may be at risk. I know Washingtonia Robusta is certainly not hardy in Raleigh, even though the average winter temps support it, there are so many other things that may prevent a long term survival of that tree here.

I know there is a recent post of a Washington Filibusta (or Filifera) in Fayetteville,  a hour south of us,  that is a good size and producing good seed. However, even though Fayetteville is a short distance from us, it's below the fall line which tends to have milder winters than places above the fall line. People say I'm splitting hairs saying Fayetteville's climate is different than Raleigh's climate given the short distance from each other but when it comes to growing plants and gauging their hardiness, minor differences matter in that regard. Fayetteville's record low is -1'F, not -9'F like Raleigh, Fayetteville, I think is rated Zone 8B (they get their share of zone 7 winters but not like Raleigh has). Plus Fayetteville gets considerable less winter precip than Raleigh does and while Fayetteville experiences CAD, the cold air doesn't linger as long in that event like it would in the Raleigh-Durham area. Cold-air damming is often one of the culprits of icy winter precipitation that can put some subtropical plants at risk, especially ones that are marginally supported climatically. 

Also to mention, Fayetteville gets hotter in the summer and summers seem to be a bit longer as well, great for palm growth. Even if you go to SE Cumberland County (I'm from Fayetteville by the way), it's a solid subtropical feel. You have more longleaf pines, more broadleaf evergreens, and gators can be found there around the swamps and Cape Fear River. While we have a lot of loblolly's and shortleaf in Wake County, like you would find in most of NC, the subtropicality of the vegetation is not the same as it is near Fayetteville. I can drive through Harnett County from Raleigh to Fayetteville/Fort Bragg - and see change in the natural environment. Basically, the further east and south you go in NC, the more subtropical it looks, even though you have some of the same species of trees in the Raleigh area. Pender County looks different than Wake County. I drove down highway 50 towards Topsail Beach through Pender County this past September - it was a mixture of Loblolly and Longleaf but it felt way more subtropical than Raleigh, which we have the same trees here, not just in as much abundance (it was way more longleaf dominated from what I can see and you had more broadleaf evergreens as well). 

Edited March 6, 2022 by Cevven

[MarkbVet]

12 hours ago, Cevven said:

For about a year but I planted a few on someone else's property, not where I live.  Just sabal minor and a couple of yuccas, which are very hardy here. I haven't physically zone pushed yet. However, I would LOVE to grow certain palms here without protecting them but I know it won't work out. I would have to move. I don't generally recommend NC for palm lovers because you are so limited to what you can grow here not due avg temps but the mean mins and how cold it COULD get - and as GoatLocked said, you can't really go by USDA hardiness zone alone. I read that USDA don't plan to make another map (they feel the 2012 is sufficient indefinitely and it took 22 for them to update that one only to use years 1976 to 2005 for data instead of 1981 to 2010 climate normals) so I don't hold my breath them to make a hardiness zone map for the 1991-2020 data. They have a plant heat zone map they didn't even update since 1997! 

I did a recent post on here "hardiness zone changes 1990-2015".... arborday.org has an updated zone map,  plus a 2nd map showing relative changes from older zones to current zones (which areas changed versus stayed the same).  The website address is  https://www.arborday.org/media/zones.cfm   It's not created by the USDA but appears reliable.   Enjoy! 

[Cevven]

3 hours ago, MarkbVet said:

I did a recent post on here "hardiness zone changes 1990-2015".... arborday.org has an updated zone map,  plus a 2nd map showing relative changes from older zones to current zones (which areas changed versus stayed the same).  The website address is  https://www.arborday.org/media/zones.cfm It's not created by the USDA but appears reliable.   Enjoy! 

Yeah, I seen that map plenty of times and I find it be more reliable than the current USDA one honestly. It puts most of NC under zone 8. The only issue I have with the map is they don't separate the zones into 2 subzones to fine tune everything. I think they push the USDA one more because it's by an official gov't agency and they are saying it gives zone pusher and subtropical/tropical flora lovers and growers "false" hope by apparently making a place seem "warmer" than it is. 

Edited March 7, 2022 by Cevven

[Cevven]

 

21 hours ago, GoatLockerGuns said:

My advice is to think at least one zone below your "official" rating when spending good money on "show piece" palms for your yard.  Use seed grown (or cheap seedlings) for more "experimental" plantings.  If I lived in Raleigh or a similar climate, I would be planting Sabals, Sabals, Sabals....

I forgot to add, ideally we should plant more Sabals in the area. However, such palms don't get a lot of love here because a lot of residents here feel it looks out of place here. They will put with it along the beach in the states but once you get away from the coastal communities in NC, the number of Sabal species in cultivation decreases dramatically. Of course you will see more in SC (my native state) due to being the "palmetto state" obviously but what I'm seeing is a lot of residents don't like palmate palms on their property, especially Sabal species. I find a lot people if they want invest in palms, they seek the more darker leaf pinnate feather leaf variety like queen palms, but they are not hardy here at all in the state. I even heard in Charleston, where Sabal Palmetto grows fairly ubiquitously, are working to remove many of them and plant non-palm vegetation in cultivation.  

[MattInRaleigh]

Good looking palm! Where did you buy it from?

[RJ]

I just planted one of these yesterday oddly enough. Curious to see how it does in the next coming months, it was overdue for an upsize in pot size so I figured what the heck. 

Edited July 5, 2023 by RJ

[jwitt]

You gave it the "best" pot.

Nice palm!

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

On 7/5/2023 at 6:20 PM, RJ said:

I just planted one of these yesterday

Your BYxJ looks more like my JxB then my BxJ. What size pot was it still in ? 

T J 

[RJ]

10 hours ago, OC2Texaspalmlvr said:

Your BYxJ looks more like my JxB then my BxJ. What size pot was it still in ? 

T J 

2g pot, I’ve got another from a different batch that looks more butia. This was a liner when I purchased it several years ago. 

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

1 hour ago, RJ said:

2g pot, I’ve got another from a different batch that looks more butia. This was a liner when I purchased it several years ago. 

Yeah definitely no guarantees on eventual look of these Butia hybrids. My BxJ barely has any jubaea traits in it. Looking to get it into the ground asap as it's a good 5gal size now 

T J 

[RJ]

4 hours ago, OC2Texaspalmlvr said:

Yeah definitely no guarantees on eventual look of these Butia hybrids. My BxJ barely has any jubaea traits in it. Looking to get it into the ground asap as it's a good 5gal size now 

T J 

I purchased it at the same time as two Jxb strap leafers , that both went toes up on me. I think I’m 0-4 with small strap leaf jxb, however the seeds were still attached to all the palms, and the bxj are noticeable smaller then the jxb seeds IIRC. 

Edited July 8, 2023 by RJ

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

37 minutes ago, RJ said:

think I’m 0-4 with small strap leaf jxb

I have a horrible track record with Patric seedlings. 4x10s or larger are the only way I roll now haha Only seedling so far I have kept alive is the BxMonty (Cocoqueen)

T J 

[Chester B]

I have two BY x J and one looks very Jubaea like, like  @RJ has shown above.  The other more feathery and Butia like.  Definitely some variability with these crosses.

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

7 hours ago, Chester B said:

I have two BY x J and one looks very Jubaea like,

Here is mine, it almost looks exactly like a regular Butia without the hooks. 

T J 

[RJ]

2 hours ago, OC2Texaspalmlvr said:

Here is mine, it almost looks exactly like a regular Butia without the hooks. 

T J 

 

That one definitely leans butia, was it from Patric? 

[RJ]

On 3/3/2022 at 1:29 PM, knikfar said:

Finally got my butia yaytay x jubaea in the ground today. I know I'll have to protect it from cold at some point. But I hope its able to still grow big and strong. 

Do you have an updated pic of you byxj after a few months being in the ground? 

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

10 hours ago, RJ said:

That one definitely leans butia, was it from Patric? 

No this one was from another PT member I believe @Steve in Florida. Not sure where he sourced it. I had gotten 2 of them and killed one off trying to fix some leaf scale =/ These definitely don't like any shade. 

T J 

[knikfar]

On 7/9/2023 at 12:06 PM, RJ said:

Do you have an updated pic of you byxj after a few months being in the ground? 

I wish I did but it didn't make it through the winter. During the December cold event, we got down to 10F. I covered the palm with a black bucket but that was all the protection I provided. And it looked great for months after that. But sometime in March, it started to brown and then spear pulled. I applied copper fungicide but it wasn't enough. I even trunk cut it down to where I got to what appeared to be living tissue. But no luck. Its dead. $80 wasted. 

[knikfar]

On 7/5/2023 at 4:18 PM, MattInRaleigh said:

Good looking palm! Where did you buy it from?

I purchased it from Patrix, the secret palm guy who is sometimes mentioned in these forums. 

[WSimpson]

Sorry to hear that . My Odorata made it with frond damage . I got down to 6F here  , but my great microclimate helped it . I covered the trunk with bales of pine needles and a blanket over that . I had supplemental heat under the blanket but when I checked in on it the next morning the heat source was off ? Still and amazing amount of green left on the fronds and it flowered too . 

Will

[RJ]

45 minutes ago, knikfar said:

I wish I did but it didn't make it through the winter. During the December cold event, we got down to 10F. I covered the palm with a black bucket but that was all the protection I provided. And it looked great for months after that. But sometime in March, it started to brown and then spear pulled. I applied copper fungicide but it wasn't enough. I even trunk cut it down to where I got to what appeared to be living tissue. But no luck. Its dead. $80 wasted. 

Sorry to hear of the loss. I just realized the original post was from 2022. Someone else bumped it back up and I just assumed it was a relatively new post … 

 

You guys up in NC definitely got a lot colder then we did this past winter. 

Edited July 10, 2023 by RJ

[knikfar]

On 7/10/2023 at 1:21 PM, RJ said:

Sorry to hear of the loss. I just realized the original post was from 2022. Someone else bumped it back up and I just assumed it was a relatively new post … 

 

You guys up in NC definitely got a lot colder then we did this past winter. 

We usually get a lot colder than Columbia in the winter. Even two hours south or east of Raleigh is a HUGE climate difference. Wrightsville Beach is an hour and 50 minutes from my house but they can grow butia and washies completely unprotected. I've even heard some people have had long term success growing canary island date palms there. 

[maesy]

Here is my yatay x jubaea

Is there an already blooming specimen of this hybrid around? 

Edited August 14, 2023 by maesy

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

5 hours ago, maesy said:

Is there an already blooming specimen of this hybrid around? 

That is a specimen already 🤙🏼

T J