Jubaea Chilensis cracked

[Enar]

I’ve tried cracking three seeds of jubaea chilensis to see how it holds up. I use vice grips and make sure they just barely put much pressure on them until I hear them crack then I finish opening the shell using a dull knife in the aforementioned crack by twisting it open. Heard rumors the root system is more sensitive when you germinate them this way so I try to plant/germinate them in a big pot to start with. You can clearly see where one of the “eyes” are thinner almost like a lid where the root would come out. Did anyone else try this? And if so what was your method and did you have success .

[Jeff zone 8 N.C.]

I tried your exact method several years ago and am sure it will work but had bad results. I could have had bad seed, I could have damaged them even though I tried not to and saw no damage.  Mine rotted. Maybe try a fungicide or plant in long fiber spagnum moss like orchids are planted in as it is antifungal.

[BeyondTheGarden]

I use a bench vise.  Crank it down until it cracks.  If needed, rotate the seed and crack at a different angle.  I've done this to probably 100 seeds and only damaged a couple.   The first time I had low germ rates but got maybe 6 or 8 that germinated, they were from ebay from a guy selling them out of CA.  Gullivergall was the seller.  Germinated with bottom heat.   His instructions said that they will not germinate when it's below 90f (I believe was the number), they will rot. 

The second batch I used no bottom heat and got zero germination. 

I just ordered another batch and am trying them in my growbox, stays between 85-90f.  

Edited October 26, 2022 by Jesse PNW

[Fusca]

I've had success germinating with cracking and without - neither method worked any better for me anyway.  Like @Jeff zone 8 N.C. said if you crack the hard shell you should use a fungicide and keep everything sanitary because the embryos will be more susceptible to fungus.  Like @Jesse PNW I used a bench vise but also used a hacksaw first to cut a few mm into the shell around the middle "equator" to make the crack smoother and more controlled.  Zero damage to the embryo that way.  I found that fluctuating temps was more critical to success by mimicking natural day and night.

[zimm]

Similar to @Fusca I have had a lot of success with a dremel and a cutoff wheel (although I initially used a hacksaw before opting for power tools).  Cut a groove maybe halfway around the seed to guide where it splits and use a flathead screwdriver to twist in the groove while holding the seed to crack them.

[NWpalms@206]

Crack and then soak, or soak and then crack? I’m gonna try a batch of cracked vs whole. And see if cracking the seeds speeds up the sprouting. 

[Fallen Munk]

I remove the shells on all of mine and just set them on top of damp soil.  They usually germinate within six to eight weeks, although I've seen a root start to sprout as quickly as two weeks.  The only time they rot is if they are bad to start with or you keep them too wet, or bury them.  They should be just lightly settled in to loose soil.  BTW, these are the easiest palm seeds to germinate for me.  But for some reason I find them tricky when in strap leaf stage.  They'll usually get to two or three leaves and damp off.  Just so wet in Oregon for much of the year.  I'm raising some up indoors right now to see if that makes a difference.

 

Edited October 31, 2022 by Fallen Munk
added info

[BeyondTheGarden]

I have killed every single Jubaea seedling I've ever grown.  "Finicky" is an apt word, they do not like moisture or humidity, which I believe has been the root problem for all of mine - not letting the soil dry out enough between waterings.  And, I didn't know what I was doing with soil and used normal potting soil.  Someone on here once said that when they hear of problems with a Jubaea, their first assumption is too much water.  I believe they are correct. 

[Chester B]

I keep mine dry, probably way too dry.  I'm terrible at watering potted plants and they are in probably 50% perlite.  So I've lost a few to drought.  And yes finicky I agree.

[NWpalms@206]

Got 200 set up, using my fire suppression tank shed, that has thermostat heat. So 88f ambient (No heat mat) is what I’m thinking a good temp, my next question is do I put a light over them? I’ve heard heat and dark works best but have heard also heat below light above… maybe works either way. the last tray of 100 I will crack the shell. Hope by New Years I see something happening in the cracked tray. 

[bruce Steele]

I have fifty young Jubaea started this year.  I crack seeds that rattle when shaken because even the slightest damage to the seed results in mold issues even with anti fungal treatment, peroxide or copper. Soak for one day before planting. The cracked seed is faster to germinate for me but when you are growing Jubaea speed is an oxymoron anyhow. I started seeds placed on surface of 50/50 perlite and peatmoss in Feb. and most everything has germinated but I have high attrition with cracked seed. I used a heat at set at 85F and ran heat during daylight and let it cool at night to about 70F. Same method cracked or whole. I need to cover with wire because mice or blue jays steal my Jubaea seed otherwise. The blue jays made off with several dozen before I wised up. 
 Also had luck with Brahea armada, date palm, and  chamaerops humilus germination this year. I have collected seed for Parajubaea torallyi and Parajubaea cocoides but haven’t started germination efforts on them yet. 

[bruce Steele]

Just to clarify , I soak the cracked seeds for one day in warm water.  Seeds in shell get two or three days. Only use antifungals as needed.

Here are some more pictures of young Jubaea and other older Jubaea I have grown from seed. 
Sorry pictures are upside down. 
 

 

 

[bruce Steele]

[amh]

I just ordered a small batch; is the baggy method too wet?

[NWpalms@206]

41 minutes ago, bruce Steele said:

Nice work! I’m germinating 300 jub we’ll see how many make it to this size. What’s the age of the larger?

[bruce Steele]

AMH, I have used baggies but I keep them open. I think the Rubbermaid rectangular tubs work better, also with the lid not sealed. 
 

NWpalms, I used to just put a bunch of seeds in a big community tub 2’x3’ in the greenhouse . So my oldest Jubaea, in the picture ,is seven but I have 5 year old Jubaea palms from the same batch of seeds . So some took two years to germinate ! Heat pad and alternating temp. 85 day to 70 night seems a much quicker and more reliable method. 
 It is time to go collect seeds so I should have several hundred as soon as I get down to Santa Barbara. 
 

[bruce Steele]

Five year old with some two year old pindo palms behind.

[NWpalms@206]

So I noticed a couple small white dots randomly around the jubaea seeds in shell still, that are in the seedling tray germinating. Looked like possible mold starting but seemed to disappear when wetted down again. Should I be concerned or spray fungicide on them? Want to stay ahead of any issues that may jeopardize the germinating. 

[bruce Steele]

I have not had mold issues with Jubaea seeds still in the shell. When they are cracked it is a much bigger issue. You can individually pick out the seeds that bother you and spray them with some 3% hydrogen peroxide while rubbing them in your hands. It is best to have the seeds cleaned of all the fleshy outer part before you get started. 
 With bottom heat alternating 85 to 70 it took up to seven months to get all the seeds to finish germinating. They will make you kinda crazy watching them every day. The seeds I put in the big community tub in the greenhouse mostly get ignored and potted out when the first leaf appears. 

[BeyondTheGarden]

We in the PNW don't have the luxury of putting the seeds outside and ignoring them - not for Jubaea.  We need to use artificial heat.  

H2O2 is pretty mild but effective against mold, and it turns into water.  

[amh]

Do the seeds have a good shelf life?

[Enar]

12 hours ago, amh said:

Do the seeds have a good shelf life?

Not sure. Probably depends on storage method.

[bruce Steele]

I think they are dependably fertile at two years. When they get old the seed separates from the shell and rattles when you shake them. This makes crackin* them easier because you get less damage to the seed. 

[amh]

On 11/6/2022 at 4:17 PM, bruce Steele said:

I think they are dependably fertile at two years. When they get old the seed separates from the shell and rattles when you shake them. This makes crackin* them easier because you get less damage to the seed. 

Should I crack any rattlers or just leave them in the shell? I'm planning on starting some now and more in the spring/summer.

[NWpalms@206]

On 11/5/2022 at 3:25 PM, bruce Steele said:

I have not had mold issues with Jubaea seeds still in the shell. When they are cracked it is a much bigger issue. You can individually pick out the seeds that bother you and spray them with some 3% hydrogen peroxide while rubbing them in your hands. It is best to have the seeds cleaned of all the fleshy outer part before you get started. 
 With bottom heat alternating 85 to 70 it took up to seven months to get all the seeds to finish germinating. They will make you kinda crazy watching them every day. The seeds I put in the big community tub in the greenhouse mostly get ignored and potted out when the first leaf appears. 

 

On 11/5/2022 at 4:24 PM, Jesse PNW said:

We in the PNW don't have the luxury of putting the seeds outside and ignoring them - not for Jubaea.  We need to use artificial heat.  

H2O2 is pretty mild but effective against mold, and it turns into water.  

Ive checked on them every other day, noticed again last night some small white spots a maybe 1/3 of the seeds.... i just went ahead and lightly spritzed them all with peroxide. hope that kills any mold beginning, but if returns ill try removing each one and treat with peroxide individually. Also went ahead and got a large heat mat and will set ambient to about 70 and the mat states to raise seed tray 10-20 degrees above ambient. Which should put it at roughly 85 (+/- 5) daytime, and 70 night. If i can prevent the mold from becoming an issue i should be good do to go. I Spray with water to re wet every other day also. As always, any other tips or tricks appreciated. 

[bruce Steele]

NWPalms, I use multiple Tupperware tubs with about a dozen seeds in each. I usually put the lids upside down for a little air circulation . If things are drying out too quick I might turn the lids right side up but still not seal them. The tubs have about 3” of 50/50 perlite peat mix. I watch to see condensation on the lid . As long as there is condensation I don’t water.I think you can stick your finger into the peat mix and you want damp but not soaking wet. So I like a little air circulation but I still want to see condensation. 
 

amh, I would crack them if they rattle. Germination can be pretty fast with cracked seed and potting up the early sprouts gives you something to do while you wait for the slower seeds. Usually fresh seed doesn’t rattle but I have had good germination from seeds that rattled . That is why I think seed is viable at two years. Very fresh seeds with fleshy husk still attached never rattle. 

[elandybarr]

On 11/6/2022 at 2:24 AM, Jesse PNW said:

We in the PNW don't have the luxury of putting the seeds outside and ignoring them - not for Jubaea.  We need to use artificial heat.  

H2O2 is pretty mild but effective against mold, and it turns into water.  

Have you tried leaving them out and ignoring them? I never have had problems germinating Jubaea, including in Seattle. They just take a while.

I put out a few dozen last year in Ankara in just coco coir + perlite right after we stopped getting frosts. I never cracked them, just soaked them for a few days. Some of them took months to germinate but nearly all of them did.

[BeyondTheGarden]

3 hours ago, elandybarr said:

Have you tried leaving them out and ignoring them? I never have had problems germinating Jubaea, including in Seattle. They just take a while.
 

Yes I have, they never germinated.  I do not believe we have enough heat here.  

[bruce Steele]

It has been frosty most every morning and I think it’s time to move the young Jubaea into the greenhouse. Minor frosts and freezes haven’t hurt the young palms with a plastic tarp thrown over them at night. Don’t want to see what high twenty’s does till they get a couple years old. Also basket of 500 fresh seeds for next years efforts.

[NWpalms@206]

So after the jubaea seeds are cracked open… should I treat the inner seed with peroxide or anti fungal when I sow to germinate, Or just treat if I see anything funky growing? Also, should I still soak before or after cracking open? I’m going to try another 100 this way.  Thanks for inputs. 

[bruce Steele]

Soak the cracked seed after you crack them. I submerge them with a small weight in a glass of water. 24 hrs. I usually wait to peroxide them when I see trouble but treat them with peroxide after the water soak if you want, won’t hurt anything. Cracking them leaves small lesions as they fail you can see the little cracks that caused the problem. I have lots of seed and don’t mind attrition so I crack some of them but if you have patience whole fresh seed will germinate with better odds.