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Posted

Hi, I have two groups of 3 Christmas palms about 8’ tall that have drooping and twisting/ curling leaves (see pictures).  I looked on a few web sites and haven’t found anything the exactly matches my problem.  I used palm fertilizer regularly and add magnesium, and manganese.  They are watered twice weekly.

anyone have any suggestions? 
thanks in advance. 

 

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Posted

Palms look good to me. Where are you (FL, I assume)? SFL & SWFL have experienced two hurricanes in the past two months. Just storm winds alone will twist palm leaves.

Meg

Palms of Victory I shall wear

Cape Coral (It's Just Paradise)
Florida
Zone 10A on the Isabelle Canal
Elevation: 15 feet

I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade.

Posted

Hi PalmatierMeg,

Yes Florida space coast.  I also have two groups of 3 Alexander Palms about 10 feet away from the Christmas palms that received the same wind speeds (40 to 58mph) and their leaves are tattered and frizzled a little, but not droopy and curved. Maybe because it’s a different tree type? 
This issue did happen after the storm, so that sounds logical.  
A couple UF agriculture folks were out here and did some soil testing just before I planted the trees a few years ago. They tested my soil pH and said it was pretty high because our back yard is mostly very old shells and sea shell pieces in the soil.  I’ve been working on lowering it but was told that because of the type of soil I have, it would raise up again on its own.  I had this in the back of my mind when I noticed the curves and twisted leaves and was thinking maybe the high pH came back.  I have a little test kit, I think I’ll check it just in case it’s a combination of high winds and lack of ability to absorb micronutrients due to high pH? 
I’ll post my findings (just in case anyone else has this problem. 
Thank you for your insight and feedback.

 

Posted

What do you mean by "alexander palm"? There is Archonotophoenix alexandrae from Australia. It is a large growing palm with pointed leaflets. Then there is Ptychosperma elegans from Asia. It is a skinny, medium size palm with jagged, i.e., praemorse, leaflets. The ubiquitous Christmas palm, Adonidia merrillii, is smaller, with arching, formal looking leaves that have praemorse leaflets and is quite cold sensitive. The response of these species to hurricane winds will vary. Your Adonidias look fine right now. I'd be more concerned about the coming winter.

  • Like 3

Meg

Palms of Victory I shall wear

Cape Coral (It's Just Paradise)
Florida
Zone 10A on the Isabelle Canal
Elevation: 15 feet

I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade.

Posted
6 hours ago, Gojo said:

PtychosTerma? Please don’t buy from these guys again. They can’t even get the Latin name spelled correctly, much less properly formatted. The main reason we use Latin binomials rather than cutesy nicknames is to avoid confusion. Every palm species has its own unique assigned Latin name it shares with no other species.

Welcome to PalmTalk and the palm learning curve. It’s a great ride.

  • Like 2

Meg

Palms of Victory I shall wear

Cape Coral (It's Just Paradise)
Florida
Zone 10A on the Isabelle Canal
Elevation: 15 feet

I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade.

Posted
7 hours ago, PalmatierMeg said:

PtychosTerma? Please don’t buy from these guys again. They can’t even get the Latin name spelled correctly, much less properly formatted. The main reason we use Latin binomials rather than cutesy nicknames is to avoid confusion. Every palm species has its own unique assigned Latin name it shares with no other species.

Yeah, I'd give them a pass if it were just an adjacent-key typo.  My wife is convinced that I make up the Latin names.  She's 100% certain that Licuala Peltata v. Sumawongii is something I invented because it sounds funny.  :D

Regarding @Gojo's comment on pH, it is really tough to substantially change acidic to basic or vice versa.  My soil is slightly acidic, so most palms grow ok here.  But some like Cuban Copernicia suffer nutrient deficiencies, and I have to supplement some nutrients and add some Dolomitic Lime near them to help neutralize the acidity.  In your case the easiest choice is to plant palms that like it a bit on the high pH side.  Reducing the pH is possible by mixing in decomposing plant matter.  It'll help, but if your "soil" is basically crushed shells, every time it rains it's leeching small amounts of calcium carbonate.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi all,

I didn't buy from the company link I sent, I purchased the trees from a local Nursey.  I sent the link to confirm the use of the name Alexander Palm.  I thought I was misunderstood in using this name and wanted to show it had a common usage.  This is what the local Nursey called. it. 

I agree that trying to change the soil is going to be an uphill battle, but because the trees look so nice there its one I'm willing to fight.  Awhile ago the local UF master gardener has suggested planting some dune daisies and other plants to get the food soil web established to see if that can help.  I did this and left for 3 months.  When I came back I felt like I was in the movie "Little house of horrors"  the daisies had taken over my back yard.  Over the boardwalks, and up the sides of the large coquina rocks.  I'm glad I didn't stay away longer...  I've since replaced them with Vinca / Periwinkles and they are doing well going on one year now. 

I've been digging out a 2ft wide 3ft deep trench around the ball of the trees and replacing the shell soil with a cow manure and compost mix.  My hope it that eventually I'll create an island of soil with a lower pH the these trees can survive in.  Only time will tell...

Thanks for the comments/ help.

Posted
22 hours ago, Gojo said:

I've been digging out a 2ft wide 3ft deep trench around the ball of the trees and replacing the shell soil with a cow manure and compost mix.  My hope it that eventually I'll create an island of soil with a lower pH the these trees can survive in.  Only time will tell...

Thanks for the comments/ help.

If you are digging out and amending the soil, make sure that you don't end up with sludge or mucky soil or make it too acidic.  Too much compost or manure can do this.  I'd mix in some cation-exchange and aerating stuff into the blend.  Turface MVP is good for this purpose, it holds water, aerates, and is a pretty good cation-exchange material per some of the bonsai people.  I buy 50lb bags for about $13 from my local Ewing Irrigation.

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