Questions about a Butia capitata cold damage

[KsLouisiana]

Hey Palmtalk,  

So I've had this palm for 3 years. Thought it was a butia capitata but not sure about it. In the last 3 winters I've had it in the ground we've had extreme cold snaps not typical for this area. One was 15° the other around 20° and it was severely damaged with spear pull both times.  Is that unusual for this palm? Could it be a different variety? I bought it as a miscellaneous palm.  The weather both times was consistent 70's and 80's all winter before the cold blasts. Also the last 3 years have been La Niña so I'm hoping that's the reason for the extra cold blasts, thoughts?

[Fusca]

4 hours ago, KsLouisiana said:

Hey Palmtalk,  

So I've had this palm for 3 years. Thought it was a butia capitata but not sure about it. In the last 3 winters I've had it in the ground we've had extreme cold snaps not typical for this area. One was 15° the other around 20° and it was severely damaged with spear pull both times.  Is that unusual for this palm? Could it be a different variety? I bought it as a miscellaneous palm.  The weather both times was consistent 70's and 80's all winter before the cold blasts. Also the last 3 years have been La Niña so I'm hoping that's the reason for the extra cold blasts, thoughts?

I can't say for sure but from what I understand probably 90-95% of Butia sold here in Texas are odorata mutts.  If you got yours in LA it's probably odorata also.  It's still somewhat young and hardiness (along with other physical features) tend to be pretty variable and will improve with age.  But yeah it's not unusual that it spear-pulled.  Your freezes were probably accompanied with rain or high humidity.  Looks like it's coming back fine too. 

Butia capitata was an old name used by growers for all Butia species before species differences were identified several years ago.  The true Butia capitata is extremely rare in cultivation and not nearly as cold hardy.  It's native to states in Brasil that are tropical and never experience freezing weather.

Edited April 13, 2023 by Fusca

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

4 hours ago, KsLouisiana said:

The weather both times was consistent 70's and 80's all winter before the cold blasts.

This right here is a telling tale of the spear pull honestly. When palms are actively growing they can be more tender to a quick cold snap. Atleast what I have read from some on here and a little of my own experience. You have yourself a good looking Butia most likely Odorata like @Fuscasaid. I would be happy that it keeps fighting off these cold snaps !! 

T J 

[KsLouisiana]

That's a lot of good information from y'all! Thanks! Yeah its been wild because not only the butia but all of my palms and citrus were still growing when those freezes happened.  Frustrating that they dont shut down at an appropriate time.  I think its definitely going to get tougher and maybe more acclimated to the weather. I got it for like $6 at Houston garden centers! 

Thanks again!

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

6 minutes ago, KsLouisiana said:

got it for like $6 at Houston garden centers! 

Your winning for sure then ! 

T J 

[SeanK]

The recovery looks good. At 15° to 20° Fahrenheit there should not be damage. Perhaps it's too wet there. This past year there was a 40F° drop and plants were not accustomed yet to the cold.

[KsLouisiana]

4 hours ago, SeanK said:

The recovery looks good. At 15° to 20° Fahrenheit there should not be damage. Perhaps it's too wet there. This past year there was a 40F° drop and plants were not accustomed yet to the cold.

That's what I thought too. People way colder than here grow them from what I understand.  I'm sure on a normal year with cool downs it probably would handle that. Along with getting bigger and tougher.

[KsLouisiana]

Does anyone think that extreme cold snaps coincide with La Niña winters in the deep south? Or was it just coincidences?

[Jeff zone 8 N.C.]

Good looking Butia. You could really help it's growth speed and health by clearing that grass way back from the trunk. Grass competes for oxygen and fertilizer with the Butia and the grass wins.  Laying down some cardboard around the trunk to block light from the grass will kill it.  Then cover the cardboard with a layer of mulch. Usually you would want a grass free zone about out to the diameter of the fronds. In your area the cardboard will rot fast and leave mulch which microorganisms will populate, that are good for the palm.  You probably then would want to dig a shallow grass free trench or other barrier around the mulch to make it easier to hold the grass back. You should see a big difference in growth. 

Edited April 14, 2023 by Jeff zone 8 N.C.

[KsLouisiana]

1 hour ago, Jeff zone 8 N.C. said:

Good looking Butia. You could really help it's growth speed and health by clearing that grass way back from the trunk. Grass competes for oxygen and fertilizer with the Butia and the grass wins.  Laying down some cardboard around the trunk to block light from the grass will kill it.  Then cover the cardboard with a layer of mulch. Usually you would want a grass free zone about out to the diameter of the fronds. In your area the cardboard will rot fast and leave mulch which microorganisms will populate, that are good for the palm.  You probably then would want to dig a shallow grass free trench or other barrier around the mulch to make it easier to hold the grass back. You should see a big difference in growth. 

Thanks Jeff. I actually never heard the grass should be that far back but I will 100% take that advice. I have plenty of grass so I wont miss that.  I'll definitely try the cardboard since this St Augustine spreads like wildfire.  Thanks for the info! I'll use it not only on this palm but all my others too

[Jeff zone 8 N.C.]

The distance out from the trunk that you mulch is a suggestion based on plant roots usually grow out to about the diameter of their crown, in general. You can go smaller if you want but this distance also helps with mowing and gives max air to the roots and max space for soil microlife. Earthworms, beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa, etc. will colonize that (natural) mulch quickly.

 

[SeanK]

I live on the Piedmont -red clay. Generally we amend the soil with hardwood mulch. However, folks who live in the "low country" will usually plant on berms. They prefer giving the roots some breathing room above the damp local ground.