Under watering and Over watering

[laz]

I recently planted four large Porotis Palms, also known as Everglades Palms, in my backyard. They stand at around 20 feet tall and were planted about two months ago. Most of them look healthy, but I have noticed a few issues. Some of the fronds have frizzled tips, and I've observed breakage at the end of the petiole where it meets the segment's Costa. Initially, the new growth was brown and mostly dead in the first month, but it has since turned green and is now sprouting with some brown spots on the blades.

Initially, I watered them with two bubblers on irrigation for 45 minutes twice a day, but after seeing these signs, I reduced watering to mostly once a day. After two months, I applied a slow-release fertilizer recommended by my local gardening extension. While most of the fronds look healthy, about 20% of them seem to be struggling.

I have attached some photos for reference. I suspect that the issue may be related to the watering schedule, as we have only had one good rain in the past 2.5 months, and things seem to improve after rainfall. I am unsure if the symptoms indicate overwatering or underwatering. For additional reference, I check the soil moisture by feeling the soil 12-15 inches deep; it feels damp but not wet. Any feedback on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your assistance.

[SeanK]

Hard to say, not knowing if you're in Pensacola or Key West.

[sonoranfans]

looks like nearly pure sand, do you see pools of water over the root zone after watering?  I would make sure that the roots are getting wet all around the tree.  I would expect they need to recover from transplant from the field they were grown in, the wet seasons thewet season will get them going.  In florida sandy soil, its hard to over water unless its the rainy season.  In the dry spring, water water is the rule for most palms.  When the rains come and are consistent, I use no irrigation. in the summer wet season.

[laz]

@SeanK central Florida zone 10B

[laz]

@sonoranfans I think your right they are recovering from transplant that's what I have suspected. The bublers installed are on either side I wondered if the entire area was getting water .  No puddling only when bubblers are on than all water drains down no puddling post watering.  I agree most of the summer my irrigation is off its that we have had virtually no rain in 2.5 months. 

[EPaul]

They don't call it an Everglades Palm for no reason - they like a lot of water. They are also susceptible to Manganese deficiencies if you have calcareous soil.

[D. Morrowii]

I’d add that if you are watering only with 2 bubblers that you supplement that with some hand watering a couple times a week to make sure the entire root zone is getting water. At least while we are in the dry season.
For the most part thats a pretty nice looking clump you got there!

[sonoranfans]

1 hour ago, laz said:

@sonoranfans I think your right they are recovering from transplant that's what I have suspected. The bublers installed are on either side I wondered if the entire area was getting water .  No puddling only when bubblers are on than all water drains down no puddling post watering.  I agree most of the summer my irrigation is off its that we have had virtually no rain in 2.5 months. 

Could be channeling of the water, bad news and it happens in sand.  Bubblers are less than ideal in sand as the water drains to a depth faster than it spreads laterally.  I would get a rainbird or other sprinkler for now and manuallyy ifrrigate an area with a 4' radius or more around the trunk.  You could also replace bubblers with microsprayers.  IF the sopil doesnt get wetted the roots wont grow into it and failure to wet parts of root structure will lead to dieback of roots.

 

https://www.dripworks.com/blogs/pray-or-drip-irrigation-which-offers-the-most-value

"In lighter soil like sandy types, a sprayer might be your best choice. In clay type soil, drip emitters work well because the water naturally spreads out from the point of origin."

[laz]

@SeanK @sonoranfans

thank you very much this was what I was looking for a different perspective.  Would you suggest just installing two additional bubblers to each palm? Or just run the cycle with the two bubblers and everyother day hand water the other two side? Do you suggest one watering cycle daily during this dry season or two? Thanks for your input. 

[sonoranfans]

I edited my post to give a reference above.  THe quote kind of tells the story.  In arid clay environments drippers are king.  As we go to humid tropical or subtropical the microsprayers are better, especially in high drainage sandy soil.  Bubblers will perform half way in between the drippers and sprayers in terms of spreading the moisture in sandy soil.  Based on the two bubblers Id say you need  2 more but it would probably be more efficient(less waste) with microsprayers.

[Merlyn]

I'd agree with Tom's above comments.  On a palm that size (especially newly transplanted) a couple of bubblers aren't going to work all that well.  It's probably had 50% of the roots removed during transplant, and you'll need to use something like the microsprayers to wet the entire clump of roots.  It takes many months for the clump to grow real roots out into the surrounding soil, so make sure you are hitting the clump for now.  Generally you don't want sprinklers hitting palm trunks, as it can cause trunk rot.  But the microsprayers are very low pressure and are probably fine.  I've used them in my nursery area for 5+ years and have seen no effect on the Queen canopy palms there.  Just get micro fans that produce a gentle mist...and not the needle-like type:

I use these 1/2 and 1/4 pattern sprayers-on-a-stick:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bird-0-29-GPH-Half-Circle-Pattern-Micro-Spray-on-Adjustable-Height-Staked-Riser-MSSTKTH1SX/204751221

I tried these and they are horrible...producing about 12 or 16 streams that don't cover much: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bird-0-29-GPH-Half-Circle-Pattern-Threaded-Micro-Sprays-2-Pack-MSH2PKSX/202078391

I'd think you could stake a pair of 180 degree fans at the center of each clump facing outwards, and hit the entire existing root mass.

As far as the dead and bent fronds, that's to be expected when digging, transporting, and planting monster clumps like that.  I think it's inevitable that some will get bent or damaged. 

[Harry’s Palms]

That large of a palm only two months from transplant , to me , looks ok . My experience is with some smaller palms and in my area , can take much longer to rebound. Harry