Jump to content
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve posted this a while back but I’m still having issues with this musa basjoo I got from plant delight nursery having some sort of disease of some sorts, would systemic fungicide work and even thinning this out? Ive been spraying it with copper fungicide every once in a while and thinking of clipping leaves off and spraying more. Ive almost had it with this clump

im afraid of it spreading to my Orinoco or my other basjoo I have in pot

IMG_8318.jpeg

IMG_8317.jpeg

IMG_8316.jpeg

Posted

It looks like a kind of leaf spot fungus, but I am not sure if it is just a generic one or something more virulent like Sigatoka fungus.  It doesn't have that streaking look that Sigatoka js supposed to have.  Cutting off and disposing of the ones that are heavily spotted will reduce the new spores floating around.  One of the "triazole" types might help, but I've not tried any on banana spotting.

I did struggle with keeping Basjoo alive here.  I gave up on it, but it may have been a bad tissue culture because it just struggled to do anything.  I had that problem with a few tissue cultures that just "failed to thrive."

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, Merlyn said:

It looks like a kind of leaf spot fungus, but I am not sure if it is just a generic one or something more virulent like Sigatoka fungus.  It doesn't have that streaking look that Sigatoka js supposed to have.  Cutting off and disposing of the ones that are heavily spotted will reduce the new spores floating around.  One of the "triazole" types might help, but I've not tried any on banana spotting.

I did struggle with keeping Basjoo alive here.  I gave up on it, but it may have been a bad tissue culture because it just struggled to do anything.  I had that problem with a few tissue cultures that just "failed to thrive."

What is triazole? I'm gonna thin the bunch out just to get some airflow through them. This sucks cause I worry it will spread to my other bananas or if this even is a saveable bunch

Posted

@ZPalms triazoles are a group of fungicides, like Etridiazole among others.  No clue if they'd actually work on your fungal spots.  I agree that thinning out the bunch should help.  Airflow is usually good for reducing fungal growth rates.

  • Like 1
Posted
25 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

@ZPalms triazoles are a group of fungicides, like Etridiazole among others.  No clue if they'd actually work on your fungal spots.  I agree that thinning out the bunch should help.  Airflow is usually good for reducing fungal growth rates.

Oh that means just systemic fungicide? I hate that I’m gonna have to kill some of the pups but it gots to be done hopefully so the future of this clump will heal

Posted
35 minutes ago, ZPalms said:

Oh that means just systemic fungicide? I hate that I’m gonna have to kill some of the pups but it gots to be done hopefully so the future of this clump will heal

Yeah, it's a common systemic for pythium and phytophthora fungi.  Another possible choice is an alumium tris type, like Fosetyl-Al or Aliette.  But before putting down a systemic fungicide it's important to know the nature of the disease.  Some of them might work on pythium, but if your fungus is a "rust" type like Uredo Musae, then it might not do anything at all.  Management might be best by removing old or heavily spotted leaves and adding a surface fungicide like copper.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does anyone know what temperature musa Basjoo die back in the winter because I want to get some from a local nursery and we sometimes get high 40s low 50d nightly lows. As for the fungus, keep us posted. Probably like Merlyn said using the fungicide or cutting the leaf would probably help. Just be careful the fungus doesn’t spread to the open tissue after cutting. 

Posted
8 minutes ago, Colin1110082 said:

Does anyone know what temperature musa Basjoo die back in the winter because I want to get some from a local nursery and we sometimes get high 40s low 50d nightly lows. As for the fungus, keep us posted. Probably like Merlyn said using the fungicide or cutting the leaf would probably help. Just be careful the fungus doesn’t spread to the open tissue after cutting. 

Should be fine, my basjoo never really stop growing and we got down to about 26 this year, just fried the leaves but they pushed out a new cigar about 10 days later 

  • Like 1
Posted

A copper based fungicide spray could help with whatever is ailing them and is an organic option. 

However Bananas CAN do this if weather has been cool/cold and wet; usually resolving itself once temperatures become consistently warmer. 

Either way, a copper fungicide spray or two might help.

Neem oil can also be quite effective. 

 

As small as they are that should be fairly easy to fix. 

 

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Posted
51 minutes ago, Robbertico18 said:

Should be fine, my basjoo never really stop growing and we got down to about 26 this year, just fried the leaves but they pushed out a new cigar about 10 days later 

I just don’t want it to defoliate during the growing season because my local nursery has them and they’re maybe 3 or 4 feet tall and I don’t want them to dieback right away

Posted

As long as you don’t have threat of frost you’ll be good 

  • Upvote 1
Posted

I really went and thinned them out to the extreme so they should be getting great airflow and I spray them with copper fungicide often, I hope they get over this issue because it's so dumb, whatever this issue is it picked it up at plants delight nursery. 😠

IMG-8392 (1).jpg

Posted
On 5/25/2024 at 5:54 PM, Merlyn said:

Yeah, it's a common systemic for pythium and phytophthora fungi.  Another possible choice is an alumium tris type, like Fosetyl-Al or Aliette.  But before putting down a systemic fungicide it's important to know the nature of the disease.  Some of them might work on pythium, but if your fungus is a "rust" type like Uredo Musae, then it might not do anything at all.  Management might be best by removing old or heavily spotted leaves and adding a surface fungicide like copper.

I’ve been spraying copper fungicide and it seems to be coming back regardless even after thinning and spraying

Should I try a systemic?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Now what is this... I swear musa basjoo is the worst!

IMG-8814.jpg

IMG-8812.jpg

IMG-8813.jpg

Posted

very tempted to chuck these hoes in the trash 😭

Posted
8 hours ago, ZPalms said:

very tempted to chuck these hoes in the trash 😭

LOL! Oh-my-LANTA! They should not be that difficult to grow I assure you. By now, they should be at least 10 ft tall. I have a 40 foot berm of them and mine are topping out at 15 foot at the moment. 

 

These are usually available all summer at local BB stores (LOWES) down here at a decent price. 

They really only need 3 things to perform well: 

1) Full sun (>6hrs direct) (the more the merrier) 

2) Lots of fertilizer (compost, and manures) - I amend the planting hole well with compost and add PlantTone, and water them every 2 weeks from April-September with MG Performance Organics all purpose + Seaweed Extract + Blackstrap UNSULFURED Molasses.  Feed is typically where people go wrong and don't understand how hungry they are. 

3) WATER! - they are basically columns of water. You'll need to water 3 times weekly in the warm months & deeply for them to perform well. If you get an inch or more of rainfall that will take the place of 1 watering during the week. 

 

Mine are planted in native red clay that's heavily amended with compost and mulched deeply (I use shredded hardwood, or hay, or pinestraw) -its whatever. 

I would visit the BB stores and see if you can find them. Plant in another location and do the above. :)

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Heres an image from the other day to give you a bit of inspiration: 

IMG_5059.thumb.JPG.3c9814b210b3333f1d067a04610884ef.JPG

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Dartolution said:

LOL! Oh-my-LANTA! They should not be that difficult to grow I assure you. By now, they should be at least 10 ft tall. I have a 40 foot berm of them and mine are topping out at 15 foot at the moment. 

 

These are usually available all summer at local BB stores (LOWES) down here at a decent price. 

They really only need 3 things to perform well: 

1) Full sun (>6hrs direct) (the more the merrier) 

2) Lots of fertilizer (compost, and manures) - I amend the planting hole well with compost and add PlantTone, and water them every 2 weeks from April-September with MG Performance Organics all purpose + Seaweed Extract + Blackstrap UNSULFURED Molasses.  Feed is typically where people go wrong and don't understand how hungry they are. 

3) WATER! - they are basically columns of water. You'll need to water 3 times weekly in the warm months & deeply for them to perform well. If you get an inch or more of rainfall that will take the place of 1 watering during the week. 

 

Mine are planted in native red clay that's heavily amended with compost and mulched deeply (I use shredded hardwood, or hay, or pinestraw) -its whatever. 

I would visit the BB stores and see if you can find them. Plant in another location and do the above. :)

 

The fact is this is the 2nd year I've had these in the ground and gained absolutely nothing great from them. Like, I'm just unsure if these are sick or need something because no matter what I throw at them, they just don't seem to be working out at all. They should be a giant green wall by now, and I'm not getting anything of the sort from them 😭.

My Orinoco are super tall right now, but Musa basjoo SUCK.

Maybe I can try feeding them again, but I also just don't know if they are definitively sick or if it's just some other issue entirely because I want them in this spot so bad!

If I bought another from the store, how do I know that if these Musa basjoo are sick they won't spread to the new one? I have another Musa basjoo in a pot that I saved from the trash, but I'm unsure if it’s caught whatever the bananas in the ground have by air or if they just hate being in the pot because all my Musa basjoo look terrible.

5 hours ago, Dartolution said:

Heres an image from the other day to give you a bit of inspiration: 

IMG_5059.thumb.JPG.3c9814b210b3333f1d067a04610884ef.JPG

This is exactly what I thought I’d be expecting by now! 😭

Posted

My spider mite situation has gotten a bit better, but now there is  another issue. The new growth has been turning brown. I tried a dish wash solution which burnt the plant and then soaked into the soil so it could be that, I’ve been watering every day soaking the whole plant so there could be overwatering issues, and there was also standing water in the new growth hole so it could be fungus.  Your right these are the worst plants lol any ideas what could be happening?IMG_1122.thumb.jpeg.342ee5746536d0b66ae2d92add35d112.jpeg

Posted

@ZPalms in the last image, some of that looks like burn of some kind. Have you applied a horticultural oil or spray recently? 

It looks more like burn to me than a fungal infection. 

However @Colin1110082's image looks more fungal/bacterial. 

 

Copper fungicide typically resolves that kind of thing. You can even use hydrogen peroxide and copper together (just like treating palm bud rot). 

 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Dartolution said:

@ZPalms in the last image, some of that looks like burn of some kind. Have you applied a horticultural oil or spray recently? 

It looks more like burn to me than a fungal infection. 

However @Colin1110082's image looks more fungal/bacterial. 

 

Copper fungicide typically resolves that kind of thing. You can even use hydrogen peroxide and copper together (just like treating palm bud rot). 

 

 

 

I sprayed a fungicide two weeks ago, and today I noticed a new leaf collapsing from the center of one plant. I have no idea what to do, but the old leaves are prematurely getting tattered, spotted, and moldy looking very quickly.

It might be time for me to give up on them and just stick to Orinoco. I don't even have to water the Orinoco, and it grows like crazy, but Musa basjoo is a total b**** to grow 😭

Posted

I think you've just gotten an infected or bad batch of TC plants. 

Basjoo's should be easier to deal with than any edible variety IME. 

If your Orinoco's are doing well, consider a Namwah. 

I have "Dwarf" Namwah's - which are enormous. Their pseudostems are 2X that of basjoos, and are VERY sturdy bananas. 

Plus, they have heavy yields when fruiting. 

Even if you dont get fruit from them, they grow very quickly and reach a height of 12-15 feet mid-year. 

Mine have flowered a bit late in the season the last 2 years (September/October). Hopefully this year or next I'll have enough time to get a ripe rack out of them. 

  • Upvote 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Dartolution said:

@ZPalms in the last image, some of that looks like burn of some kind. Have you applied a horticultural oil or spray recently? 

It looks more like burn to me than a fungal infection. 

However @Colin1110082's image looks more fungal/bacterial. 

 

Copper fungicide typically resolves that kind of thing. You can even use hydrogen peroxide and copper together (just like treating palm bud rot). 

 

 

1 hour ago, Dartolution said:

@ZPalms in the last image, some of that looks like burn of some kind. Have you applied a horticultural oil or spray recently? 

It looks more like burn to me than a fungal infection. 

However @Colin1110082's image looks more fungal/bacterial. 

 

Copper fungicide typically resolves that kind of thing. You can even use hydrogen peroxide and copper together (just like treating palm bud rot). 

 

 

 

IMG_1140.thumb.png.86d32dfda377a339938a9cfb5ebdbad7.pngI’ll just order this stuff then unless there is a different one you recommend. Will this stuff burn the plant? I was told dish wash solution for spider mites won’t burn the plant and all the leaves are scarred from it. I just got an unlucky banana. Hey at least it has a pup growing. Anyways is this stuff good for full sun? And is mixing hydrogen peroxide in there like you said going to cause any damage? And finally how often should I spray and how much? Thank you for the help

Posted
47 minutes ago, Dartolution said:

I think you've just gotten an infected or bad batch of TC plants. 

Basjoo's should be easier to deal with than any edible variety IME. 

If your Orinoco's are doing well, consider a Namwah. 

I have "Dwarf" Namwah's - which are enormous. Their pseudostems are 2X that of basjoos, and are VERY sturdy bananas. 

Plus, they have heavy yields when fruiting. 

Even if you dont get fruit from them, they grow very quickly and reach a height of 12-15 feet mid-year. 

Mine have flowered a bit late in the season the last 2 years (September/October). Hopefully this year or next I'll have enough time to get a ripe rack out of them. 

Do you think I should just dig these up and burn them and plant another basjoo in it's place? I really want basjoo in this spot because it was gonna act as a green wall maybe I should dig out a huge patch of soil and backfill it with more compost and stuff?

When I first planted these I dug out a big hole and put an ok amount of tree and shrub soil in the hole.

Posted
9 hours ago, ZPalms said:

Do you think I should just dig these up and burn them and plant another basjoo in it's place? I really want basjoo in this spot because it was gonna act as a green wall maybe I should dig out a huge patch of soil and backfill it with more compost and stuff?

When I first planted these I dug out a big hole and put an ok amount of tree and shrub soil in the hole.

I’m not giving up on mine yet and I don’t think you should either, but if you really think these won’t make it then go ahead. I just don’t like giving up on plants. Maybe move them to another spot and keep trying. Where will you get yours from?

Posted
16 hours ago, Dartolution said:

I think you've just gotten an infected or bad batch of TC plants. 

Basjoo's should be easier to deal with than any edible variety IME. 

If your Orinoco's are doing well, consider a Namwah. 

I have "Dwarf" Namwah's - which are enormous. Their pseudostems are 2X that of basjoos, and are VERY sturdy bananas. 

Plus, they have heavy yields when fruiting. 

Even if you dont get fruit from them, they grow very quickly and reach a height of 12-15 feet mid-year. 

Mine have flowered a bit late in the season the last 2 years (September/October). Hopefully this year or next I'll have enough time to get a ripe rack out of them. 

Would you say this is fungus all the white? IMG_1147.thumb.jpeg.f375dce8091c45569dd5ec51761c7215.jpegIMG_1146.thumb.jpeg.7627eacbba304dbd641003b44628fe06.jpeg

Posted
On 7/5/2024 at 9:03 PM, Colin1110082 said:

I’ll just order this stuff then unless there is a different one you recommend. Will this stuff burn the plant? I was told dish wash solution for spider mites won’t burn the plant and all the leaves are scarred from it. I just got an unlucky banana. Hey at least it has a pup growing. Anyways is this stuff good for full sun? And is mixing hydrogen peroxide in there like you said going to cause any damage? And finally how often should I spray and how much?

@Colin1110082 No copper fungicide won't burn the plant. 

Do not apply it during the middle of the day. Early morning or late evening hours are best (this goes for anything you apply). 

No H2O2 @ 3% solution won't cause damage . This would be the peroxide you can buy in the pharmacy. DO NOT USE 30% solution!

I would apply it once weekly and monitor. Don't apply if you know you're going to get rain within 24hrs (wasteful). 

 

On 7/5/2024 at 9:28 PM, ZPalms said:

Do you think I should just dig these up and burn them and plant another basjoo in it's place? I really want basjoo in this spot because it was gonna act as a green wall maybe I should dig out a huge patch of soil and backfill it with more compost and stuff?

When I first planted these I dug out a big hole and put an ok amount of tree and shrub soil in the hole.

@ZPalms If those are the same plants in the ground for 2 seasons I would start over personally. Excavate the hole and remove the existing soil. When replanting use ESPOMA BioTone Starter in the planting hole (a cup or two). I would use a generous amount of compost and manure in the planting hole, and MULCH well (2-3") with a high quality natural mulch like shredded hardwood, pine bark, pine straw, or cypress mulch. DO NOT USE THE "premium" mulches at BB stores that are dyed. 

Once you've done this, water it in with a mixture of seaweed extract, and blackstrap unsulfured molasses.  (I use Blue Planet Nutrients Easy Weed at a rate of 1 scoop per gallon, and 1 TBS per gallon of the UNSULFURED molasses - IT MUST BE UNSULFURED!). 

Here's the theory on the seaweed and molasses thing: 

 

Seaweed is chock-a-block FULL of potassium and natural gibberellin's that will aid in the establishment and growth of any new planting, while the molasses is a sugar source (carbs) that will help jumpstart all of the beneficial bacterial and fungal colonies you've inoculated the soil with by using BioTone starter thereby allowing quick bonding with the newly growing roots of the plant. 

That's the quick-and-dirty anyway. 

During this phase, water deeply 2X weekly unless you get more than an inch of rainfall (then you can skip 1 watering). 

At 1 month begin using a water soluble fertilizer (I like MG Performance Organics all-purpose) in conjunction with the seaweed and molasses. Feed every 2 weeks like this between April - September.  Terminate this at the end of September, and begin again the first week of April. 

I have been doing this now for 5 years to establish all sorts of plantings from Palms, to Bananas, from Heliconia to Petunias. I haven't found anything that doesn't respond well to this aside from maybe succulents. haha 

 

If this doesn't work something else is going on in the soil or surrounding area. 

BTW, I just did this myself after removing about 2 dozen pups from my Namwah and Basjoo's. I saved 1 of the Namwah pups and potted it up to give to a friend of mind down here. 

 

On 7/6/2024 at 1:03 PM, Colin1110082 said:

Would you say this is fungus all the white? 

@Colin1110082 It could be, perhaps. The only sure way is to sample and submit for testing. That also looks like its been too wet and cool. In cool wet conditions this can happen. 

Down here Bananas will usually throw what I call "pancake leaves" in February/March. (You know, because when you make pancakes the first 1 or two always are crap) These are the first 2-3 leaves after winter that always look funky. Mind you it's still cool at night in February/Early March. However, after that leaf development is normal. 

 

 

ALL of this to be said - Keep in mind that Bananas are RAPIDLY growing plants and will usually pull out of any ailment as long as they have the Sun, Water, and Fertilizer they need. With Basjoo's in good conditions you should have 1-3 leaves per week emerging. More when they are younger/smaller, and 1-2 per week or so when they get large.  If you have less than that either they are establishing, or conditions are suboptimal. 

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Dartolution said:

@Colin1110082 No copper fungicide won't burn the plant. 

Do not apply it during the middle of the day. Early morning or late evening hours are best (this goes for anything you apply). 

No H2O2 @ 3% solution won't cause damage . This would be the peroxide you can buy in the pharmacy. DO NOT USE 30% solution!

I would apply it once weekly and monitor. Don't apply if you know you're going to get rain within 24hrs (wasteful). 

 

@ZPalms If those are the same plants in the ground for 2 seasons I would start over personally. Excavate the hole and remove the existing soil. When replanting use ESPOMA BioTone Starter in the planting hole (a cup or two). I would use a generous amount of compost and manure in the planting hole, and MULCH well (2-3") with a high quality natural mulch like shredded hardwood, pine bark, pine straw, or cypress mulch. DO NOT USE THE "premium" mulches at BB stores that are dyed. 

Once you've done this, water it in with a mixture of seaweed extract, and blackstrap unsulfured molasses.  (I use Blue Planet Nutrients Easy Weed at a rate of 1 scoop per gallon, and 1 TBS per gallon of the UNSULFURED molasses - IT MUST BE UNSULFURED!). 

Here's the theory on the seaweed and molasses thing: 

 

Seaweed is chock-a-block FULL of potassium and natural gibberellin's that will aid in the establishment and growth of any new planting, while the molasses is a sugar source (carbs) that will help jumpstart all of the beneficial bacterial and fungal colonies you've inoculated the soil with by using BioTone starter thereby allowing quick bonding with the newly growing roots of the plant. 

That's the quick-and-dirty anyway. 

During this phase, water deeply 2X weekly unless you get more than an inch of rainfall (then you can skip 1 watering). 

At 1 month begin using a water soluble fertilizer (I like MG Performance Organics all-purpose) in conjunction with the seaweed and molasses. Feed every 2 weeks like this between April - September.  Terminate this at the end of September, and begin again the first week of April. 

I have been doing this now for 5 years to establish all sorts of plantings from Palms, to Bananas, from Heliconia to Petunias. I haven't found anything that doesn't respond well to this aside from maybe succulents. haha 

 

If this doesn't work something else is going on in the soil or surrounding area. 

BTW, I just did this myself after removing about 2 dozen pups from my Namwah and Basjoo's. I saved 1 of the Namwah pups and potted it up to give to a friend of mind down here. 

 

@Colin1110082 It could be, perhaps. The only sure way is to sample and submit for testing. That also looks like its been too wet and cool. In cool wet conditions this can happen. 

Down here Bananas will usually throw what I call "pancake leaves" in February/March. (You know, because when you make pancakes the first 1 or two always are crap) These are the first 2-3 leaves after winter that always look funky. Mind you it's still cool at night in February/Early March. However, after that leaf development is normal. 

 

 

ALL of this to be said - Keep in mind that Bananas are RAPIDLY growing plants and will usually pull out of any ailment as long as they have the Sun, Water, and Fertilizer they need. With Basjoo's in good conditions you should have 1-3 leaves per week emerging. More when they are younger/smaller, and 1-2 per week or so when they get large.  If you have less than that either they are establishing, or conditions are suboptimal. 

I'm going to prepare to dig them up soon and remove all the soil. I'll refer back to this when I'm ready to plant. I really appreciate it! Hopefully, this will work out this time!

I should get a wheelbarrow because I have quite a bit of soil to transport 😭😭😭😭

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Dartolution said:

@Colin1110082 No copper fungicide won't burn the plant. 

Do not apply it during the middle of the day. Early morning or late evening hours are best (this goes for anything you apply). 

No H2O2 @ 3% solution won't cause damage . This would be the peroxide you can buy in the pharmacy. DO NOT USE 30% solution!

I would apply it once weekly and monitor. Don't apply if you know you're going to get rain within 24hrs (wasteful). 

 

@ZPalms If those are the same plants in the ground for 2 seasons I would start over personally. Excavate the hole and remove the existing soil. When replanting use ESPOMA BioTone Starter in the planting hole (a cup or two). I would use a generous amount of compost and manure in the planting hole, and MULCH well (2-3") with a high quality natural mulch like shredded hardwood, pine bark, pine straw, or cypress mulch. DO NOT USE THE "premium" mulches at BB stores that are dyed. 

Once you've done this, water it in with a mixture of seaweed extract, and blackstrap unsulfured molasses.  (I use Blue Planet Nutrients Easy Weed at a rate of 1 scoop per gallon, and 1 TBS per gallon of the UNSULFURED molasses - IT MUST BE UNSULFURED!). 

Here's the theory on the seaweed and molasses thing: 

 

Seaweed is chock-a-block FULL of potassium and natural gibberellin's that will aid in the establishment and growth of any new planting, while the molasses is a sugar source (carbs) that will help jumpstart all of the beneficial bacterial and fungal colonies you've inoculated the soil with by using BioTone starter thereby allowing quick bonding with the newly growing roots of the plant. 

That's the quick-and-dirty anyway. 

During this phase, water deeply 2X weekly unless you get more than an inch of rainfall (then you can skip 1 watering). 

At 1 month begin using a water soluble fertilizer (I like MG Performance Organics all-purpose) in conjunction with the seaweed and molasses. Feed every 2 weeks like this between April - September.  Terminate this at the end of September, and begin again the first week of April. 

I have been doing this now for 5 years to establish all sorts of plantings from Palms, to Bananas, from Heliconia to Petunias. I haven't found anything that doesn't respond well to this aside from maybe succulents. haha 

 

If this doesn't work something else is going on in the soil or surrounding area. 

BTW, I just did this myself after removing about 2 dozen pups from my Namwah and Basjoo's. I saved 1 of the Namwah pups and potted it up to give to a friend of mind down here. 

 

@Colin1110082 It could be, perhaps. The only sure way is to sample and submit for testing. That also looks like its been too wet and cool. In cool wet conditions this can happen. 

Down here Bananas will usually throw what I call "pancake leaves" in February/March. (You know, because when you make pancakes the first 1 or two always are crap) These are the first 2-3 leaves after winter that always look funky. Mind you it's still cool at night in February/Early March. However, after that leaf development is normal. 

 

 

ALL of this to be said - Keep in mind that Bananas are RAPIDLY growing plants and will usually pull out of any ailment as long as they have the Sun, Water, and Fertilizer they need. With Basjoo's in good conditions you should have 1-3 leaves per week emerging. More when they are younger/smaller, and 1-2 per week or so when they get large.  If you have less than that either they are establishing, or conditions are suboptimal. 

I have blood feed I could feed them but it’s really hot I don’t know if that stresses the plant. How much should I do? I’ll also order copper fungicide 

Posted
On 7/8/2024 at 9:06 AM, Colin1110082 said:

I have blood feed I could feed them but it’s really hot I don’t know if that stresses the plant. How much should I do? I’ll also order copper fungicide 

I ordered the fungicide but it’s going to rain all week which sucks 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...