Dypsis decaryi problem

[Saara]

I hope someone could help.

I ordered this palm from the same place I got the last palm which was in good condition. Unfortunately, this time I was not happy. I received this palm 1 week ago. It traveled 5 days. It had slightly dried spots on the leaves. I watered and washed it because it was soil on the leaves. Since then, these brown spots have spread. I suspected a fungus (The other palm, which also came, has brown spots on the end leaves, picture of that on the bottom), so I just did a fungal treatment. I notice that it has a large potassium deficit and I already carefully gave a little potassium (I quess something 0,75-1 ml/l) in the first watering. I wonder if there are other nutrient deficiencies? Some dry brown on the middle of the leaves and end leaves dry.

Or was it already too dry when I got it or watered too often? Or too dry air? Too much fertilizer too early? So burn leaves?

Any suggestions? 

 

Almost forget:

Also when I got it I did spray on the leaves biobizz alg-a-mig which which is a thinner dilution than the instructions, over the leaves to the top as possible as a mist. 

 

[Fusca]

Hi @Saara, I think it might be too much water.  I bought one myself recently but it's in the ground.  I know in their habitat they can endure a lot of heat, sun and drought.  I don't know how happy it will stay in a pot in Finland.  I have a couple seedlings in pots that I grew from seed and I water them twice a week and they stay outside.  Yours has nice new growth which is encouraging.  Hopefully someone else can give you better advice.  I hope you can keep it happy!

[Saara]

25 minutes ago, Fusca said:

Hi @Saara, I think it might be too much water.  I bought one myself recently but it's in the ground.  I know in their habitat they can endure a lot of heat, sun and drought.  I don't know how happy it will stay in a pot in Finland.  I have a couple seedlings in pots that I grew from seed and I water them twice a week and they stay outside.  Yours has nice new growth which is encouraging.  Hopefully someone else can give you better advice.  I hope you can keep it happy!

Thank you!

I will replant it later in a slightly bigger, deep clay pot (20->25 cm)

[D. Morrowii]

I would add that when you repot it make sure the soil you use is very fast draining. Stay away from any heavy organic bagged stuff. I killed quite a few of these as small seedlings because of soggy soil and too much water. 

[Saara]

I think there is magnesium deficiency. It makes sense because it is in the coconut soil mix. 

Am I right? 

 

[D. Morrowii]

4 hours ago, Saara said:

I think there is magnesium deficiency. It makes sense because it is in the coconut soil mix. 

Am I right? 

 

That doesn't look like magnesium deficiency to me. I think if it were the yellowing would be appearing evenly and start on the tips of the oldest leaves first and moving inward. My guess would be that that is something happening with the roots or damage from shipping. Also I don’t think magnesium deficiency cause the leaf tissue to die at least as a primary symptom. 

[Saara]

I found a web of spider mites on another palm tree. Fortunately, that treatment, Carbon kick booster, also worked for these. I'm still treating the other plants that came in the same shipment with the substance

[Saara]

Maybe spider mites, I watered too early and damaged in shipping. I got the palms 1.5m long in the box (3 pcs) and 1 was on one side and the other two were on the other side in the box and the pot was tied with iron wire so it wouldn't fly around in the box. So it has been upside down, or someone was necessarily always upside down.

After the next watering, I plan to plant it in a coconut mixture and in a clay pot 20->25cm.
Should I use Hydrogen Peroxide or superthive before replanting? And what dosage? What is the best option?

I have already used carbon kick booster for the spider mites.  At a quick look, the roots are ok.

How dry should this palm tree be allowed to dry before watering again? Drier than Phoenix canariensis or the same principle, i.e. withstands rough treatment?

I'll put it under a decent light. Should I put it on a heating mat?

[SeanK]

Personally, I like to doctor plants outside. Even in the winter, I will wait until it goes above 50°F/10°C and bring them outside for two hours.

[Saara]

On 9/16/2024 at 5:20 PM, SeanK said:

Personally, I like to doctor plants outside. Even in the winter, I will wait until it goes above 50°F/10°C and bring them outside for two hours.

Unfortunately it's already cold here,

thank you 😊

[Saara]

I checked the roots again today and it looks like there is root rot. It looks like the growing medium is still moist. Maybe it stays too wet for too long. I noticed bugs in the soil.

I have only watered once.

Should I just change the growing medium to a new one right away? I hope this will survive.

Thank you!

[Fusca]

2 hours ago, Saara said:

I checked the roots again today and it looks like there is root rot. It looks like the growing medium is still moist. Maybe it stays too wet for too long. I noticed bugs in the soil.

I have only watered once.

Should I just change the growing medium to a new one right away? I hope this will survive.

Thank you!

Sounds like a good idea - like @D. Morrowii mentioned potted palms need well drained soil to do well.

[Saara]

I gave it Superthrive yesterday and after 24 hours I repotted it. I removed the old soil with a shower and was able to remove half of it.

Water did not come out of the clay pot enough, so I decided to plant in a fabric pot 26-28 cm (last pot was 20cm). The coconut mix ran out, so a similar mix came on top (without leca because it ran out).

[Saara]

I quess this is lost case 😭

I noticed mold on the side of the palm. Put hydrogen peroxide in there and it bubbles. I think I've lost this one :(. Also that Carbon kick booster was too lame of a mix for mites. I used another one on Tuesday and it worked. I'll use it one more time just to be sure, though one time would be ok with that mix.

And also I messaged where I bought it and they didn't admit it was damaged from traveling too.

Maybe the only thing I can do is a warm mat under it and hydrogen peroxide in the soil. What mixture should I use with the 3%?

Any other suggestions?

I have watered this only two time after I got it, second time was repotting. 

[Fusca]

On 9/27/2024 at 5:08 AM, Saara said:

I quess this is lost case 😭

I noticed mold on the side of the palm. Put hydrogen peroxide in there and it bubbles. I think I've lost this one

Yes, the mold doesn't look good but not necessarily a death sentence.  How is the newest spear?  Give it a light tug.  If it holds firm it's OK.  If it pulls out then there's interior rot.  If that happens apply some hydrogen peroxide in the hole and follow up after an hour or so with some copper fungicide and keep that area dry.  If the roots looked good when you repotted it, it has a chance to recover from a spear-pull.

[Saara]

23 hours ago, Fusca said:

Yes, the mold doesn't look good but not necessarily a death sentence.  How is the newest spear?  Give it a light tug.  If it holds firm it's OK.  If it pulls out then there's interior rot.  If that happens apply some hydrogen peroxide in the hole and follow up after an hour or so with some copper fungicide and keep that area dry.  If the roots looked good when you repotted it, it has a chance to recover from a spear-pull.

It didn't put out. I pushed the stems out a little and I did pour some hydrogen peroxide there. The stem is more mobile after that.

What is the active ingredient in the copper fungicide product? I was wondering, what would be similar that can be found in the EU area and could be delivered to finland?

Thank you!

[PalmsandLiszt]

3 hours ago, Saara said:

What is the active ingredient in the copper fungicide product? I was wondering, what would be similar that can be found in the EU area and could be delivered to finland?

You should be able to get Cupric (Copper II) Hydroxide, which is used as a colourant for ceramics. It needs only to be very dilute. This is what I use for soaking fungus-prone seeds/plants with damaged roots in.
I'm sure there are many other copper compounds also effective as fungicides.

[Saara]

2 hours ago, PalmsandLiszt said:

You should be able to get Cupric (Copper II) Hydroxide, which is used as a colourant for ceramics. It needs only to be very dilute. This is what I use for soaking fungus-prone seeds/plants with damaged roots in.
I'm sure there are many other copper compounds also effective as fungicides.

Thank you. I check it out. 

I found some interesting article

 

 

 

[Saara]

This palm died 😭.

All the plants I received in the same order are problematic. This one died and the newly opened leaf of the strelitzia showed clear traces of a thrips, but luckily I had pulled it with a systemic poison when I changed the pot, so it didn't spread to other plants or this plant and it is doing ok now.

Some of the leaves of Chambeyronia are now being dried and I will make my own story about it. It was ok week ago. It is weid that dried leaves has white spots like mold. ??? Perhaps too early watering.

The first order from there (babypalms) was in really good condition and I've only heard good things from others. It's really sad. They didn't even admit that it was damaged in transit.

Now I haven't been home much, because during the busiest time of the year.

 

 

[Saara]

On 9/29/2024 at 10:08 PM, PalmsandLiszt said:

You should be able to get Cupric (Copper II) Hydroxide, which is used as a colourant for ceramics. It needs only to be very dilute. This is what I use for soaking fungus-prone seeds/plants with damaged roots in.
I'm sure there are many other copper compounds also effective as fungicides.

This Copper glaze 

https://www.kerasil.fi/380206-Copper-Chun-lasite-1200-1260C ? 

[Saara]

On 9/29/2024 at 10:08 PM, PalmsandLiszt said:

You should be able to get Cupric (Copper II) Hydroxide, which is used as a colourant for ceramics. It needs only to be very dilute. This is what I use for soaking fungus-prone seeds/plants with damaged roots in.
I'm sure there are many other copper compounds also effective as fungicides.

I did find their page too

copper oxide
copper carbonate
copper sulfate

 

[Saara]

On 9/29/2024 at 10:08 PM, PalmsandLiszt said:

You should be able to get Cupric (Copper II) Hydroxide, which is used as a colourant for ceramics. It needs only to be very dilute. This is what I use for soaking fungus-prone seeds/plants with damaged roots in.
I'm sure there are many other copper compounds also effective as fungicides.

My friend has got copper oxide. Is that ok?

[Saara]

I finally found today Batlle Copper Eco Fungicide in Spain. I did order it. I did really had difficulties to find any.

For some reason the copper ceramic colors were out of stock here in the store and the friend didn't have any, and the order from the online store was complicated (invoice around two days, order will be sent after receiving the payment and the order will be shipped in 3-7 days).

Also link for previous article https://setac.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/etc.5766

 

[Saara]

Palm is dead but my Chambeyronia can be saved

[PalmsandLiszt]

On 10/26/2024 at 3:29 PM, Saara said:

This Copper glaze 

https://www.kerasil.fi/380206-Copper-Chun-lasite-1200-1260C ? 

I'm afraid I can't read Finnish, and it doesn't give any chemical formula, so I don't know what that is. The cupric hydroxide is a bright turquoise powder that produces a bright turquoise solution in water even in very small quantities. I have tried to find the ebay listing I bought some from (which was from central Europe somewhere), but it seems to have expired.

On 10/26/2024 at 4:42 PM, Saara said:

My friend has got copper oxide. Is that ok?

I couldn't tell you for certain, but I think most copper compounds are toxic to fungi. The hydroxide will be more reactive, so plain oxide might be less effective. I am not an expert on the biochemistry of copper fungicides, however, and was only telling you the compound I use which seems to work well.