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Posted

So my Croton thread didn’t go as I’d hoped…  😒

What are some “tropical looking” flowers or plants that have blooms or foliage that adds a vibrant pop of color to the landscape and can take a low temperature of about 20F?

What are you Palm Talkers growing that can take a freeze but still gives you that “tropical paradise” appearance?

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Posted

Orange Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia Reginae) is remarkably hardy, though I don't know the lower limits.  Mine have seen repeated upper 20s frosts with no significant damage, just a bit of burn on the oldest leaves.  It's mostly green when not blooming, though. 

Some Mangaves are colorful and hardy into the low 20s.  You could look at Kaleidoscope, Pineapple Punch, maybe a few others.  Some might burn to a crisp at 20F, but may also grow back.

If you like crotons you could always plant a few and just treat them as annuals.  The same goes for some TI plants like the common Red Sister type.  They root easily from stem cuttings, and apparently grow indoors with low light just fine.  So you could do some cuttings and stick them in with your palm seedlings...replant in the spring!

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Posted

There's a lot of options for 9B......  That said, because winters in that part of the world like to get freaky,  your list of options is altered -slightly-


As mentioned, Orange Birds should handle your typical winters w/ out issue.. 20F ..or lower, esp. if in the teens for more than a night, might be too much though..

Red Bird of paradise, Caesalpinia pulcherrima can return from being cut down by lower 20F cold. The standard Yellow / Mexican Bird of Paradise, Erythrostemon mexicanus  can handle some cold as well.

Several reasonably hardy Calliandras / Fairydusters also..

Tecoma stans ..Yellow  and / or Orange Bells is another trooper that will handle some cold..

TX Olive, Cordia boisseri  is a nice tree option, minus the fruit drop.

Senna sps.. Numerous, many should do fine there.

That's just a drop in a very big bucket..  Wayyyy too many flowering options you could research to fit on one page..


For foliage?

Variegated forms of Cast Iron Plant could work ..if you have shady areas. 

Same w/ Coleus, and Persain Shield though they'll likely get cut down by a good frost.  Bloodleaf is another that could work for -at least- seasonal foliage color.  Copperleaf as well. 

The good thing about all 4 of those plants is that you can start some cuttings in late summer for next year.  

As Merlyn mentions, Ti Plants are easy, and can be started from cuttings and replanted later.



 

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Posted
13 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Red Bird of paradise, Caesalpinia pulcherrima can return from being cut down by lower 20F cold. The standard Yellow / Mexican Bird of Paradise, Erythrostemon mexicanus  can handle some cold as well.

Several reasonably hardy Calliandras / Fairydusters also..

Great recommendations, but I will add, Erythrostemon gilliesii since it will remain evergreen into the teens.

Posted

@Dwarf Fan Are you looking for tropicals that can survive 20F or remain evergreen at that temperature?

For the former, I'd suggest things like Justicias, Hamelia patens, Odontonema (Firespikes), Ruellias, and Scutellaria longifolia - all tropicals with very tender foliage, but will return from the roots following temps low 9a/high 8b conditions with a little mulch. All are readily available too. I'm also trialing several Heliconias this year that can hopefully be added to that list.

 

  • Like 4
Posted
On 9/28/2024 at 3:32 PM, thyerr01 said:

@Dwarf Fan Are you looking for tropicals that can survive 20F or remain evergreen at that temperature?

For the former, I'd suggest things like Justicias, Hamelia patens, Odontonema (Firespikes), Ruellias, and Scutellaria longifolia - all tropicals with very tender foliage, but will return from the roots following temps low 9a/high 8b conditions with a little mulch. All are readily available too. I'm also trialing several Heliconias this year that can hopefully be added to that list.

 

I have two Heliconias bought from someone in Tomball.  They told me they were hardy in the ground, but you needed two years growth to get flowers.  Sold only as "red" and "pink".  Enchanted Forest has a large bed of them, and you can tell they don't get lifted for winter.

 The limesizzler firebush is pretty striking.  They look ok in the stores, but once in the ground once they get settled the new leaves are pretty awesom.

Erythrina bidwilli, Colocasia, Russelia equisetiformis, Hibiscus mutabilis "Rubra or Rubrum" , Magnolia "Coppertallica"

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/28/2024 at 9:15 PM, Dwarf Fan said:

So my Croton thread didn’t go as I’d hoped…  😒

What are some “tropical looking” flowers or plants that have blooms or foliage that adds a vibrant pop of color to the landscape and can take a low temperature of about 20F?

What are you Palm Talkers growing that can take a freeze but still gives you that “tropical paradise” appearance?

Sorry to hear about your crotons. Why don't you keep them in pots and bring them indoors in the winter? You could hide the pots behind plants or even bury them. Btw if you see 20F that's more like zone 9a or 8b, right?

previously known as ego

Posted

Crotons are iffy here where I live too. They may go through 10 winters just fine then that one winter comes along and BOOM. AT best, defoliation, at worst, freeze to the soil line.

Many people here use Ti Leaves and Crotons as 'annuals', or at least as expendable plants they know they may have to replace. They are relatively cheap here, sometimes you can get a Red Sister or similar for $7.99. Mammey, Petra crotons run about $15 in the 3 gallon. People do the same with Monsteras.

I have a Heliconia scheideana 'Fire and Ice'  that I got from a friend earlier this summer...he couldn't;t grow it because....and this is true... as soon as he planted it, squirrels attacked it and shredded it, and everytime the stalks started to re-emerge, they did it again. He dug the rhizomes and gave them to me, I am going to trial them out next winter,

If you don;t mind having to deadhead blooms, Hedychium ginger will stay up and keep blooming until a freeze kills it to the ground. Then it will pop back up in Spring, no problem. Up inMarch here, blooming by May 

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"You can't see California without Marlon Brando's eyes"---SliPknot

 

Posted
On 9/28/2024 at 3:32 PM, thyerr01 said:

@Dwarf Fan Are you looking for tropicals that can survive 20F or remain evergreen at that temperature?

For the former, I'd suggest things like Justicias, Hamelia patens, Odontonema (Firespikes), Ruellias, and Scutellaria longifolia - all tropicals with very tender foliage, but will return from the roots following temps low 9a/high 8b conditions with a little mulch. All are readily available too. I'm also trialing several Heliconias this year that can hopefully be added to that list.

 

I am looking for tropicals that can survive 20F I don’t expect them to be evergreen below freezing.

Thanks for the lead on the Heliconias those definitely have the tropical look I was going for. 

Posted
On 9/30/2024 at 10:05 AM, Chester B said:

I have two Heliconias bought from someone in Tomball.  They told me they were hardy in the ground, but you needed two years growth to get flowers.  Sold only as "red" and "pink".  Enchanted Forest has a large bed of them, and you can tell they don't get lifted for winter.

 The limesizzler firebush is pretty striking.  They look ok in the stores, but once in the ground once they get settled the new leaves are pretty awesom.

Erythrina bidwilli, Colocasia, Russelia equisetiformis, Hibiscus mutabilis "Rubra or Rubrum" , Magnolia "Coppertallica"

^^^ This is great news about Heliconias in Texas thanks Chester, I am also looking into Hibiscus species as well.

Posted
On 9/30/2024 at 11:27 AM, Than said:

Sorry to hear about your crotons. Why don't you keep them in pots and bring them indoors in the winter? You could hide the pots behind plants or even bury them. Btw if you see 20F that's more like zone 9a or 8b, right?

On 10/1/2024 at 7:12 AM, metalfan said:

Crotons are iffy here where I live too. They may go through 10 winters just fine then that one winter comes along and BOOM. AT best, defoliation, at worst, freeze to the soil line.

Many people here use Ti Leaves and Crotons as 'annuals', or at least as expendable plants they know they may have to replace. They are relatively cheap here, sometimes you can get a Red Sister or similar for $7.99. Mammey, Petra crotons run about $15 in the 3 gallon. People do the same with Monsteras.

I have a Heliconia scheideana 'Fire and Ice'  that I got from a friend earlier this summer...he couldn't;t grow it because....and this is true... as soon as he planted it, squirrels attacked it and shredded it, and everytime the stalks started to re-emerge, they did it again. He dug the rhizomes and gave them to me, I am going to trial them out next winter,

If you don;t mind having to deadhead blooms, Hedychium ginger will stay up and keep blooming until a freeze kills it to the ground. Then it will pop back up in Spring, no problem. Up inMarch here, blooming by May 

Than - I have never grown any Crotons, I was just disappointed to find out that they won’t be long term cold hardy for me due to lows into the 20s.

 

Metalfan - I really like the look of the Heliconias if they can be root hardy when the occasional freezes decide to come through they sound definitely worth a try. Thanks for the recommendation on the Hedychium ginger. I really like the look of the Hedychium coccineum 'Slim's Orange' 

Posted

These are the what I am looking at right now I know that BOTH Plumeria and Hibiscus are long term root hardy here.

What other suggestions does anyone have that have a tropical look and vibrant color similar to the pics below?

 

Hibiscus syriacus ‘Purple Satin’

28251667-A21B-480B-A93C-7D7679F2F9D0.webp.ee7dd619afd752d5ce7cb949186f9bc0.webp

Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Lord Baltimore’

7D400535-BCC1-4BF9-AFF0-83AEDBD12E0F.thumb.jpeg.6e47fdc79cfff2001751644c1452adcb.jpeg

Heliconia 'Tropics Fleur'

EAE6BDC4-A7AD-4CCA-8007-BB3C07FF98BE.jpeg.8b79d08d0c31bb6b2c90b455856d276a.jpeg

 Hedychium coccineum 'Slim's Orange'

E17C3487-70E9-4B8C-B484-2F6C73ECD9DC.webp.49e6aeb71103e9129f80b692e22b126d.webp

Plumeria ‘Rainbow’

88063EDF-7AF3-4BAD-A34A-EA7ADE723B73.thumb.webp.7dc52f396e05a37aab332ddc8f84efde.webp

Posted

In z9b, I would never plant a deciduous or dieback perennial. Do you own this book? RLR gardened for many years in Houston. This encyclopaedia is a wonderful table book.

TheTL.JPG

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Posted
18 hours ago, Dwarf Fan said:

 

These are the what I am looking at right now I know that BOTH Plumeria and Hibiscus are long term root hardy here.

What other suggestions does anyone have that have a tropical look and vibrant color similar to the pics below?

You need to delete all of those temperate hibiscus and replace them with standard/vigorous varieties of tropical hibiscus. Things like 'President' red and 'Seminole Pink' are sold by every big box stores and bulletproof bloom their head off if you supply enough sun and potassium. 

 

You can get very far just spamming different varieties of cordyline/ti plants. Very easy to propagate 

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Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
3 hours ago, SeanK said:

In z9b, I would never plant a deciduous or dieback perennial. Do you own this book? RLR gardened for many years in Houston. This encyclopaedia is a wonderful table book.

TheTL.JPG

It I has been on my list of books to buy for a while now I guess I might as well treat myself since spring is right around the corner… thanks for the reminder. :greenthumb:

37 minutes ago, Xenon said:

You need to delete all of those temperate hibiscus and replace them with standard/vigorous varieties of tropical hibiscus. Things like 'President' red and 'Seminole Pink' are sold by every big box stores and bulletproof bloom their head off if you supply enough sun and potassium. 

 

You can get very far just spamming different varieties of cordyline/ti plants. Very easy to propagate 

I specifically selected the Hibiscus syriacus ‘Rose of Sharon’ and the Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Lord Baltimore’ because of their cold hardiness, both are rated down to Zones 4-5.

What is the advantage to using the more tropical varieties of Hibiscus? Keeping in mind I am okay with chopping down to the roots on a regrow but I am definitely not looking to replace plants year after year.

Just to be clear NO annuals, but tender perennials are fine.

When you say “spamming” Cordyline/ti plants with easy propagation, are you recommending to grow them as annuals but take cuttings that are protected from the cold and then replace them with the cuttings every year or ?

 

88645B11-2FE1-420A-94A5-F71A29476157.thumb.jpeg.ee906c84ee502fdd08d9d3d5fcdb34f0.jpeg
E33E2714-880C-42A6-897C-B5874494DFE5.thumb.jpeg.175145314bb73872229d0901c17a7253.jpeg

Posted

Personally, I am not for Syriacus. It holds dead blooms on the limbs. In my own yard, I focus on BLEs. I want the garden to invite, 12 months of the year.

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Posted
2 hours ago, Dwarf Fan said:

It I has been on my list of books to buy for a while now I guess I might as well treat myself since spring is right around the corner… thanks for the reminder. :greenthumb:

I specifically selected the Hibiscus syriacus ‘Rose of Sharon’ and the Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Lord Baltimore’ because of their cold hardiness, both are rated down to Zones 4-5.

What is the advantage to using the more tropical varieties of Hibiscus? Keeping in mind I am okay with chopping down to the roots on a regrow but I am definitely not looking to replace plants year after year.

Just to be clear NO annuals, but tender perennials are fine.

When you say “spamming” Cordyline/ti plants with easy propagation, are you recommending to grow them as annuals but take cuttings that are protected from the cold and then replace them with the cuttings every year or ?

 

 

All of the standard tropical hibisucs like I mentioned are 100% hardy for you, they are root hardy even up in Houston. They are also 1000x more vigorous than any of those temperate hibisucs that would struggle to survive at best (leave them for the people in Maryland). It's pretty obvious if you drive around CC, tropical hibiscus is everywhere. Tropical hibiscus doesn't even get significant wood damage until it gets into the mid 20s and it could be 20-30 years until you reach those temps (there were some monster hibisucs before 2021). But anywhow, they are completely root hardy and will bloom again within a few months of freezing to the ground. If you want something beyond big box plants, many of the old hybrids like 'High Voltage' combine huge flowers, color, and hardiness. 

Same for the ti plants, completely root hardy and propagating them can be as easy as chopping some sticks and sticking them whereever you want them. They take a light freeze just fine and don't really die back much until the mid 20s which again is a rare event in your area. 

You need to consider the the length of your hot season and low latitude (you are further south than Tampa), nearly anything temperate is struggling to survive and that's not even factoring in your coastal conditions. I would advise you to stop hyperfocusing solely on cold hardiness (it's only one factor of many) and look at the bigger picture...you live on subtropical barrier island surrounded by warm salty bath water for most of the year. 

  • Upvote 2

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
1 hour ago, Xenon said:

All of the standard tropical hibisucs like I mentioned are 100% hardy for you, they are root hardy even up in Houston. They are also 1000x more vigorous than any of those temperate hibisucs that would struggle to survive at best (leave them for the people in Maryland).  <— 🤣

It's pretty obvious if you drive around CC, tropical hibiscus is everywhere. Tropical hibiscus doesn't even get significant wood damage until it gets into the mid 20s and it could be 20-30 years until you reach those temps (there were some monster hibisucs before 2021). But anywhow, they are completely root hardy and will bloom again within a few months of freezing to the ground. If you want something beyond big box plants, many of the old hybrids like 'High Voltage' combine huge flowers, color, and hardiness. 

Same for the ti plants, completely root hardy and propagating them can be as easy as chopping some sticks and sticking them whereever you want them. They take a light freeze just fine and don't really die back much until the mid 20s which again is a rare event in your area. 

You need to consider the length of your hot season and low latitude (you are further south than Tampa), nearly anything temperate is struggling to survive and that's not even factoring in your coastal conditions. I would advise you to stop hyperfocusing solely on cold hardiness (it's only one factor of many) and look at the bigger picture...you live on subtropical barrier island surrounded by warm salty bath water for most of the year. 

Thank you for the in depth explanation with specifics and added context, very much appreciated Jonathan. 🤙

I know they have a down side of spreading quickly if not contained, but I really like the look of a couple different Heliconia, would those do well for me here?

Posted
2 hours ago, SeanK said:

Personally, I am not for Syriacus. It holds dead blooms on the limbs. In my own yard, I focus on BLEs. I want the garden to invite, 12 months of the year.

What varieties of Hibiscus do you grow? And what is BLE short for?

Posted

You could try rhododendrons, azaleas, bauhinias, tabeua, the brachychiton sp, the Australian red cedar tree, allyoxeum sp, golden penda, the grevillia family, fruit trees are tropical looking both the flowers and fruit. Depending on your canopy and microclimate some of these may go well. I have no idea of your climate but the above plants are rather cool tolerant. But if you’re climate is in what I call the dead zone research and trial are your best bet.

Posted
53 minutes ago, Dwarf Fan said:

I know they have a down side of spreading quickly if not contained, but I really like the look of a couple different Heliconia, would those do well for me here?

Don't know your exact conditions but I'd suspect your biggest issue would be salty soil, salty irigation water, and/or salt in the air. And potentially saltwater flooding. 

Another hibiscus that would love your conditions is seaside mahoe (Hibiscus tiliaceus), the vareigated forms have very showy leaves and you get traditional hibiscus flowers too.  Haven't been to CC in over 10 years, but it's all over RGV and completely root hardy. You could throw in variegated rubber figs (Ficus elastica) too, does great in your conditions and root hardy. Pretty much most tropical houseplants are root hardy, the posibilities are endless...

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
2 hours ago, Dwarf Fan said:

What varieties of Hibiscus do you grow? And what is BLE short for?

BLE := broad leaf evergreen. Id est, green all year, not a gymnosperm. Magnolias and live oaks drop in springtime but new leaves are simultaneously emerging.

I have rhododendron, camellia, fatsia. Additionally there are Loquats and Wax Myrtle. Gardenias have white flowers but must be planted in the open as they are prone to powdery mildew.

Posted
20 minutes ago, SeanK said:

BLE := broad leaf evergreen. Id est, green all year, not a gymnosperm. Magnolias and live oaks drop in springtime but new leaves are simultaneously emerging.

I have rhododendron, camellia, fatsia. Additionally there are Loquats and Wax Myrtle. Gardenias have white flowers but must be planted in the open as they are prone to powdery mildew.

Got it, the “broad leaf evergreen” definitely isn’t the direction I am looking to go in, rhododendrons, camillia, fatsia & wax myrtles don’t really have much of a tropical look to my eye. Not a fan of azaleas either.

Do you grow any varieties of hibiscus, plumeria or heliconia?

Or any of the red or pink cordylines?

Posted
1 hour ago, Dwarf Fan said:

Got it, the “broad leaf evergreen” definitely isn’t the direction I am looking to go in, rhododendrons, camillia, fatsia & wax myrtles don’t really have much of a tropical look to my eye. Not a fan of azaleas either.

Do you grow any varieties of hibiscus, plumeria or heliconia?

Or any of the red or pink cordylines?

My winters are too cold to grow anything too tender. I try to stick to things that don't require too much maintenance.

Posted
59 minutes ago, SeanK said:

My winters are too cold to grow anything too tender. I try to stick to things that don't require too much maintenance.

Okay, I don’t know much about Atlanta winters but it looks like you are in either 7b/8a so that makes sense.

Posted
17 hours ago, Xenon said:

Another hibiscus that would love your conditions is seaside mahoe (Hibiscus tiliaceus), the vareigated forms have very showy leaves and you get traditional hibiscus flowers too.  Haven't been to CC in over 10 years, but it's all over RGV and completely root hardy. 

I will vouch for the presence of H. tiliaceus here in CC.  I wouldn't say they are all over the place but they are certainly around.  A neighbor has one and has bounced back like a champ after every freeze, it's currently taller than the 6-7' wood fence in their back yard from this year's growth.

I have a hibiscus that was here when we moved in, has the orange creamsicle/peach-ish colored flower, really beautiful.  Roared back big time after '21, when it froze again the next year it came back again, though not quite as strong. then it froze again and once more came back, but with less vigor than the previous time.  It is currently looking fine but didn't flower this year and isn't huge.  It's not in an ideal spot, gets significant shade, maybe that's a factor in it's inability to store sufficient reserves against successive hits. 

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Corpus Christi, TX, near salt water, zone 9b/10a! Except when it isn't and everything gets nuked.

Posted
1 hour ago, Xerarch said:

It's not in an ideal spot, gets significant shade, maybe that's a factor in it's inability to store sufficient reserves against successive hits. 

Yep lots of sun but they're definitely not drought tolerant, lots of water too. and potassium. But the flamboyant blooms pay off 😛

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted

How bout Ipomoea Carnea aka Morning Glory Tree?  They will get knocked down to the ground in a hard freeze but will get back to 8'+ tall and 8' wide in 1 season.  There's pink and white varieties.  They are LOADED with flowers daily from mid summer on.  The downsides are the flowers are pretty much spent by early afternoon and I have had a hard time training them into anything other than a giant bush.

20241006_083014.jpg

20241006_083021.jpg

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Posted
45 minutes ago, Keys6505 said:

How bout Ipomoea Carnea aka Morning Glory Tree?  They will get knocked down to the ground in a hard freeze but will get back to 8'+ tall and 8' wide in 1 season.  There's pink and white varieties.  They are LOADED with flowers daily from mid summer on.  The downsides are the flowers are pretty much spent by early afternoon and I have had a hard time training them into anything other than a giant bush.

 

 

Someone in the neighborhood has one and it's always swarming with insects. Different kinds of flies more than anything else. It's kinda fascinating but revolting at the same time. 

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted

It does not have the showiest of flowers, but Calotropis gigantea or giant milkweed could add a nice tropical look to your property.

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Posted

Hibiscus syriacus - You need to be careful with these, as they are highly invasive even in northern climates.  You have to make sure you get a sterile variety otherwise you will go mad pulling the hundreds of seedlings.  Not the most tropical looking to be honest with their tiny leaves.

Hibiscus moscheutos - They flower once a year over a week or two and the flowers last one day.  Not really worth growing in my books for such a short display.  Personally I like the "Holy Grail" variety the best.  They need copious amounts of water, as they naturally grow in wetlands.

Most real tropicals are broad leaf evergreens, that's why so many of us look to include them in our gardens.  The more tropical, the bigger the leaves.  I really limit the amount of deciduous plants I have.  Maybe down here in Texas you only have to look at dead plants for 2 or 3 months, but coming from the north having dead looking plants 6+ months of the years is a big no go.  I probably had <5% of my garden as deciduous.

 

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Posted

Loquat

Obviously native fan palms like Sabal minor

Hybrid Bidwell's coral bean

Hibiscus martianus is native to TX and has vibrant red flowers
Of course there's the turkscaps
 
Justicia brandegeeana always surprises me with its hardiness. the flowers were undamaged under canopy at 25 degrees over several days. Justicia fulvicoma is a similar species with similar (maybe slightly less) hardiness and has my favorite color of any Justicia. Red firespike (again give it part shade!). Salvia x Amante (personal favorite hybrid salvia now, also probably part sun in TX). these all attract hummingbirds
Dwarf Red Powderpuff one of my absolute favorite exotic shrubs, I am picky when it comes to exotics lol but it performs well in both cool and warm weather.  will not be reliably evergreen for you.
In blazing full sun Anisacanthus wrightii 'San Antonio Red'
 
Passiflora x Incense just plant it in a plastic pot, saw off bottom and raise it slightly this will make a boundary so rhizomes don't spread. this will give you gulf frit butterflies
In part shade: Passiflora suberosa can be layered with a Hamelia patens (Firebush) this will give you Zebra longwings and hummingbirds which will add to tropical paradise vibe. P. suberosa does not sucker as bad in my experience.
Last vine is Aristolochia trilobata it is evergreen to 25 for me and should be root hardy at 20. Unlike all other exotic pipevines it is safe for the pipevine swallowtail and it has very interesting flowers and more interesting foliage in my opinion.
 
Many broms can take temps around there if under native oak canopy. Start with Billbergia nutans and most of the matchstick Aechmea species, the ones native to southern Brazil. Neoregelia cruenta impressed me in its performance (no burn without canopy at 25).  There are the Laelia anceps, Sedirea japonica, Dendrobium moniliforme orchids too. Stack all of these on the loquat or oak for tropical vibe.
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Collector of native, ornithophilous, Stachytarpheta, iridescent, and blue or teal-flowering plants

 

Posted
On 10/5/2024 at 5:12 PM, Xenon said:

Don't know your exact conditions but I'd suspect your biggest issue would be salty soil, salty irigation water, and/or salt in the air. And potentially saltwater flooding. 

Another hibiscus that would love your conditions is seaside mahoe (Hibiscus tiliaceus), the vareigated forms have very showy leaves and you get traditional hibiscus flowers too.  Haven't been to CC in over 10 years, but it's all over RGV and completely root hardy. You could throw in variegated rubber figs (Ficus elastica) too, does great in your conditions and root hardy. Pretty much most tropical houseplants are root hardy, the posibilities are endless...

Do you think it would be possible to grow Hibiscus tiliaceus in zone 9b? Would it be root hardy over here.

Posted
10 hours ago, Victor valadez said:

Do you think it would be possible to grow Hibiscus tiliaceus in zone 9b? Would it be root hardy over here.

I had to look that one up.  What I saw was zone 10, so likely tender.  

When I saw the photos I thought it was the same tree I had under a different name.  I have Hibiscus hamabo which is nearly identical in every way, including its preferred habitat.  However it looks like tillaceus flowers start out yellow and change to apricot, where the hamabo they are all yellow.

Posted

Does that plant happen to be more cold hardy?

6 minutes ago, Chester B said:

I had to look that one up.  What I saw was zone 10, so likely tender.  

When I saw the photos I thought it was the same tree I had under a different name.  I have Hibiscus hamabo which is nearly identical in every way, including its preferred habitat.  However it looks like tillaceus flowers start out yellow and change to apricot, where the hamabo they are all yellow.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Victor valadez said:

Does that plant happen to be more cold hardy?

 

Much hardier. Apparently good to zone 8. 

Posted
20 hours ago, Victor valadez said:

Do you think it would be possible to grow Hibiscus tiliaceus in zone 9b? Would it be root hardy over here.

It's probably root hardy for you. I think it might require a winter without freezing back much to get flowers but you can still probably grow the variegated form for foliage. Better suited along the coast I think 

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted

Randomly stumbled into this Hibiscus tiliaceus in inland Corpus, 100% root hardy as I thought 

Screenshot2024-10-17092120.thumb.png.77ebe630531fb76ab85e854840daf706.png

Here it is in 2008 as a full-blown tree 😅 

Screenshot2024-10-17092142.thumb.png.f539dfabaf32d20946afed74349c6185.png

Screenshot 2024-10-17 092142.png

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

  • 1 month later...
Posted
10 hours ago, ahosey01 said:

Manihot grahamii for leaf texture? @Dwarf Fan

Interesting shaped leaflets for sure, but it reminds me more of a fig leaf and it just doesn’t quite have that “wisk me off to paradise” feel to it to be honest.

Here is what I have planted so far:

Hibiscus syriacus ‘Purple Satin’

Plumeria ‘Mystery Color???’ (Gift)

Plumeria ‘Red’ (Wat Saddhadhamma Buddhist temple find)

Ruellia brittoniana 'Katie’ (Purple)

Canna ‘Mystery Color???’ (Gift)

Canna ‘The President’

Canna ‘Lucifer'

Canna ‘Bengal Tiger’

Canna ‘Red Tiger'

Curcuma elata ‘Giant Plume Ginger’

Lycoris sprengeri ‘Electric Blue Spider Lily’

Cordyline fruticosa ‘Hot Pepper’ 

 

Next up:

Dwarf Musa

Curcuma comosa

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis ‘Tradewinds Fire Wind’ 

Canna ‘Yellow King Humbert’ 

Cordyline fruticosa ‘Kiwi’ 

Monstera adansonii 

Colocasia (MAYBE: Pink or purple veined…?)

Hedychium coccineum (MAYBE…)

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