Frond damage question

[Eetrmlap]

Need advice im new to FL and had some 14+ feet triple Foxtail plans put in.   They were transplanted in mid September.

Hurricane Milton winds bend a lot of the fronds and now they are dangling.   Partially green but some browning.     Should I just live with the ugly and let the fronds fall naturally or should I trim them off?   Trees looked great until winds did the damage.

when trees were planted they mixed in palm fertilizert all around the soil around the root ball and on top of soil around the tree.   Should I consider any foliage feetilizer?

 

[SeanK]

Please take a picture. Damage may be structural, sunburn, fertilizer, . . .

Folks need to see the crown and leaves.

Edit: I see your profile says NE Florida. That may affect the long-term success of these. I think Foxtails are z10a palms.

[awkonradi]

Welcome to PalkTalk!  Lots of very knowledgable and helpful people here.  As Sean indicates, pictures would help PalmTalkers help you!

[Harry’s Palms]

I don’t recommend topical foliage fertilizer . It sounds like the soil treatment is enough. Also , you mentioned “ transplanted” . Does this mean they were dug up and moved , or just planted from pots? I don’t know how well Wodyetia do with root disturbance . Harry

[Eetrmlap]

Want to be clear so my question is answered regarding cutting the bent fronds or just let them drop.   Let's avoid the "will they do well where I live".   The answer is yes.

The Foxtails in my backyard came out unscathed as the house gave them a wind break.  This on in the front saw the full wind gusts.    I get conflicting answers on whether to trim the bent fronds off or to just let them drop on their own.   You can see another shoot already going up.    Tree looked fantastic until Milton did its thing.     The fronds only turned brown when they get bent from the wind

The tree was transplanted from a nursery and installed with a Bobcat.   It was a big root ball.

I'm 3.5 miles as the crow flies from the ocean.   The palms will have incandescent lights installed on them as a "just in case".     I'm 25 miles North of Daytona.    Many, many Foxtails in my area......

[Eetrmlap]

2 hours ago, Harry’s Palms said:

I don’t recommend topical foliage fertilizer . It sounds like the soil treatment is enough. Also , you mentioned “ transplanted” . Does this mean they were dug up and moved , or just planted from pots? I don’t know how well Wodyetia do with root disturbance . Harry

Transplanted by nursery.   Root ball was big.    As in picture below you would not plant that Palm by hand they used a Bobcat.  It's 14+ feet tall triple Foxtail.

[Merlyn]

@Eetrmlap if the frond is broken and bent 90 degrees I'd just cut them off at the break.  The severely bent ones have pinched off or broken the "vascular bundles" that transport water and nutrients to and from the fronds.  So they serve no purpose other than to look bad.  Usually you want to let the fronds die off and fall of naturally, because palms will "eat" the oldest fronds to provide nutrients for new root and frond growth.  But in this case just lop them off if they are bent...if they are just a little droopy I'd leave them.  I would NOT attempt to remove the crownshaft on the cut ones, just let them fall off naturally.  Removing the crownshaft bases takes all the strength out of the upper trunk.

For fertilizer it's normally not recommended to add any during planting, or within 2-3 months of planting.  It's too easy to burn new roots.  Since the nursery did that during planting I'd leave it alone until early December.  I typically do my last round of fertilizer the first week of December.  The typical recommendation here is PalmGain or Florikan 8-2-12 at a rate of 1.5lb per 100sqft of canopy, 4x per year.  So for a Foxtail with a ~10' diameter crown you'd do 5 * 5 * 3.14 = 78sqft and around 1.5lb * 78 / 100 = 1.2lb per palm.  In a triple I give them a bit extra, but I typically don't multiply by 3.  The rate was determined experimentally by Broschat et al., but is just a good guideline.  It's not like you need to weigh it out or anything.

[Eetrmlap]

8 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

@Eetrmlap if the frond is broken and bent 90 degrees I'd just cut them off at the break.  The severely bent ones have pinched off or broken the "vascular bundles" that transport water and nutrients to and from the fronds.  So they serve no purpose other than to look bad.  Usually you want to let the fronds die off and fall of naturally, because palms will "eat" the oldest fronds to provide nutrients for new root and frond growth.  But in this case just lop them off if they are bent...if they are just a little droopy I'd leave them.  I would NOT attempt to remove the crownshaft on the cut ones, just let them fall off naturally.  Removing the crownshaft bases takes all the strength out of the upper trunk.

For fertilizer it's normally not recommended to add any during planting, or within 2-3 months of planting.  It's too easy to burn new roots.  Since the nursery did that during planting I'd leave it alone until early December.  I typically do my last round of fertilizer the first week of December.  The typical recommendation here is PalmGain or Florikan 8-2-12 at a rate of 1.5lb per 100sqft of canopy, 4x per year.  So for a Foxtail with a ~10' diameter crown you'd do 5 * 5 * 3.14 = 78sqft and around 1.5lb * 78 / 100 = 1.2lb per palm.  In a triple I give them a bit extra, but I typically don't multiply by 3.  The rate was determined experimentally by Broschat et al., but is just a good guideline.  It's not like you need to weigh it out or anything.

Awesome exactly what I was looking for.   I don't have personal experience with Palms as a guide and even amongst nurseries they seem to vary in approach.   I was told by nursery that the palm Fert helps them get past the transplant shock and it was a "lighter dose".    They sold me a bag of palm Fert to use in December but I'll check out the ones you listed.    I have one Sylvester and 3 foxtails thus far.     Will eventually add a pygmy date palm and the rest of my plantings will be the understory to the palms.    

Is river rock ok for around the palms?   I don't want bark mulch and was thinking of using rock since doesn't float or blow away.   

[Merlyn]

@Eetrmlap I'd think a "small amount" at planting is unlikely to hurt anything.  There have been a couple of threads on this forum where people planted new palms with a 5lb bag of palm fertilizer, and then wondered why it died a month later... 

December is a good time to fertilize, IMO.  Some people say not to, but I can't find a scientific reason why.  In Central Florida (Tampa/Orlando/Daytona areas) the average soil temp is >50F except for the top couple of inches during unusual cold fronts.  So there's plenty of soil microbial activity, it's only dropped off by a few percent in the middle of January.  I found that if I fertilized in December then the palms seemed to start growing better in March, and had less obvious winter damage.  I'm sure I'm just "hoping" that it's true, but it seems to help.

As far as fertilizer goes, I have used PalmGain 8-2-12, Lesco 13-3-13, Sunniland 6-1-8 and Vigoro 8-4-8.  I *think* that the Lesco and PalmGain worked better than the cheap stuff, but all I can say for sure is that the Vigoro 8-4-8 didn't seem to work as well as the others.  Right now I have ~125lb of Sunniland 6-1-8 on the back porch ready to put out on my ~300 palms and ~275 cycads.

For palms, be aware that there's a palm disease going through Florida called "Lethal Bronzing."  It primarily kills Sylvesters, Canariensis and Dactylifera, with a near 100% mortality rate once it's in the area.  I lost one Sylvester to it, and decided to cut down my other two Sylvestris before it spread to them too.  If you've seen all the dead Phoenix along I4 and I95, that's the disease killing them.  It doesn't seem to affect Pygmy Date or Reclinata. 

I think river rock would work great as a topper.  I generally don't use river rock around palms, only for three reasons:

1. The fertilizer contains iron and manganese, both of which could possibly stain the rock.  It's probably noticeable on something like white marble chips, but maybe invisible on brown river rock.
2. Decomposing mulch is a good source of nutrients, especially minor elements like boron.
3. My agave beds with salt-and-pepper marble and lava rock are super weedprone.  It's waaaaay worse than mulched areas.

Maybe put down a 2" layer of a dark brown mulch and then put the river rock on top of it?  I have no idea if that would work or look good, but it might be a good solution for weeds...and the only thing visible would be the river rock?

[Eetrmlap]

1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

@Eetrmlap I'd think a "small amount" at planting is unlikely to hurt anything.  There have been a couple of threads on this forum where people planted new palms with a 5lb bag of palm fertilizer, and then wondered why it died a month later... 

December is a good time to fertilize, IMO.  Some people say not to, but I can't find a scientific reason why.  In Central Florida (Tampa/Orlando/Daytona areas) the average soil temp is >50F except for the top couple of inches during unusual cold fronts.  So there's plenty of soil microbial activity, it's only dropped off by a few percent in the middle of January.  I found that if I fertilized in December then the palms seemed to start growing better in March, and had less obvious winter damage.  I'm sure I'm just "hoping" that it's true, but it seems to help.

As far as fertilizer goes, I have used PalmGain 8-2-12, Lesco 13-3-13, Sunniland 6-1-8 and Vigoro 8-4-8.  I *think* that the Lesco and PalmGain worked better than the cheap stuff, but all I can say for sure is that the Vigoro 8-4-8 didn't seem to work as well as the others.  Right now I have ~125lb of Sunniland 6-1-8 on the back porch ready to put out on my ~300 palms and ~275 cycads.

For palms, be aware that there's a palm disease going through Florida called "Lethal Bronzing."  It primarily kills Sylvesters, Canariensis and Dactylifera, with a near 100% mortality rate once it's in the area.  I lost one Sylvester to it, and decided to cut down my other two Sylvestris before it spread to them too.  If you've seen all the dead Phoenix along I4 and I95, that's the disease killing them.  It doesn't seem to affect Pygmy Date or Reclinata. 

I think river rock would work great as a topper.  I generally don't use river rock around palms, only for three reasons:

1. The fertilizer contains iron and manganese, both of which could possibly stain the rock.  It's probably noticeable on something like white marble chips, but maybe invisible on brown river rock.
2. Decomposing mulch is a good source of nutrients, especially minor elements like boron.
3. My agave beds with salt-and-pepper marble and lava rock are super weedprone.  It's waaaaay worse than mulched areas.

Maybe put down a 2" layer of a dark brown mulch and then put the river rock on top of it?  I have no idea if that would work or look good, but it might be a good solution for weeds...and the only thing visible would be the river rock?

Is there a way to prevent the disease with proactive fungicide regime?   My Sylvester is a focus point of my circle driveway so would suck if it died.   It's an 8 ft clear trunk tree that I paid real money to have put in.    I'll have to research it more.

[Merlyn]

3 minutes ago, Eetrmlap said:

Is there a way to prevent the disease with proactive fungicide regime?   My Sylvester is a focus point of my circle driveway so would suck if it died.   It's an 8 ft clear trunk tree that I paid real money to have put in.    I'll have to research it more.

The disease is a phytoplasma bacteria, not a (normal) bacteria or fungus.  It's related to the Lethal Yellowing phytoplasma that wiped out most of the coconuts in Miami (and other locations) in the 70s and 80s.  The only known treatment (as a preventative) is injections of oxytetracycline.  Here's a good primer on the disease: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP163

LB didn't make it to my area until about 2 years ago.  Since then about half the Sylvestris and Dactylifera around here have died, or are clearly infected.  A Hyundai dealer near me planted about 30 trunking Dacytlifera, and just today I noticed that two are dead with LB symptoms.  I expect that the other 30 and the ~50 planted by FDOT near the I4/417/429 interchange will all die in the next 2 years.  I chose to trash mine because it seemed inevitable that they'd get infected, and I had no interest in dedicating precious real estate for them.  I'd rather grow something like a Copernicia Fallaensis or Beccariophoenix Alfredii.  Plus, I get stabbed in the hand or arm or leg any time I got within 50 feet of them...not sure how but I did!   

[Eetrmlap]

3 hours ago, Merlyn said:

The disease is a phytoplasma bacteria, not a (normal) bacteria or fungus.  It's related to the Lethal Yellowing phytoplasma that wiped out most of the coconuts in Miami (and other locations) in the 70s and 80s.  The only known treatment (as a preventative) is injections of oxytetracycline.  Here's a good primer on the disease: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP163

LB didn't make it to my area until about 2 years ago.  Since then about half the Sylvestris and Dactylifera around here have died, or are clearly infected.  A Hyundai dealer near me planted about 30 trunking Dacytlifera, and just today I noticed that two are dead with LB symptoms.  I expect that the other 30 and the ~50 planted by FDOT near the I4/417/429 interchange will all die in the next 2 years.  I chose to trash mine because it seemed inevitable that they'd get infected, and I had no interest in dedicating precious real estate for them.  I'd rather grow something like a Copernicia Fallaensis or Beccariophoenix Alfredii.  Plus, I get stabbed in the hand or arm or leg any time I got within 50 feet of them...not sure how but I did!   

Another question, where should I lop off the fronts that got bend 90 degrees?    Closer to the trunk or at the point where it get bent?

[Merlyn]

13 minutes ago, Eetrmlap said:

Another question, where should I lop off the fronts that got bend 90 degrees?    Closer to the trunk or at the point where it get bent?

I'd cut just on the trunk side of the kink/bend.  That makes a clean cut and gets rid of the damaged tissue.  It probably wouldn't hurt to cut the frond off closer to the trunk.  I would not cut into or remove the boots.  Just let them fall off naturally over the next month or so.  

[Eetrmlap]

What is boot?

[Harry’s Palms]

Boot. = leaf base. Harry

[Merlyn]

11 hours ago, Eetrmlap said:

What is boot?

As Harry said, it's the old leaf base.  For palms like a Foxtail it's also a lot of structural support for the crown, so you don't want to remove them early.  In the below picture someone probably ripped off the old boots early to make it look nice for the photo:

The old frond bases are sometimes just cosmetic, like Sylvestris and Sabals.  But in crownshafted palms like Foxtails, Royals, Kings and others, it forms an important structural part of the tree.  If, for example, you had removed a bunch of the older fronds and bases before the hurricane, it would have had a greater chance of the entire top just snapping off...instead of just snapping a couple of fronds. 

[Eetrmlap]

6 hours ago, Merlyn said:

As Harry said, it's the old leaf base.  For palms like a Foxtail it's also a lot of structural support for the crown, so you don't want to remove them early.  In the below picture someone probably ripped off the old boots early to make it look nice for the photo:

The old frond bases are sometimes just cosmetic, like Sylvestris and Sabals.  But in crownshafted palms like Foxtails, Royals, Kings and others, it forms an important structural part of the tree.  If, for example, you had removed a bunch of the older fronds and bases before the hurricane, it would have had a greater chance of the entire top just snapping off...instead of just snapping a couple of fronds. 

Thanks for this.   I lopped off the bent fronds and it already at least looks better.    Since FL has such sandy soils should I be watering these on an interval or should the eventually just adapt to the area they are growing in?       We had such a wet Sept/Oct I never had to water these but now with more normal rainfall curious how much I should water them both now as they are new and into the future.

[Merlyn]

45 minutes ago, Eetrmlap said:

Thanks for this.   I lopped off the bent fronds and it already at least looks better.    Since FL has such sandy soils should I be watering these on an interval or should the eventually just adapt to the area they are growing in?       We had such a wet Sept/Oct I never had to water these but now with more normal rainfall curious how much I should water them both now as they are new and into the future.

Once they are rooted in, most palms are pretty good with the natural rainfall here.  May and October are usually the hot drought months, but this October has been cool and hurricane-y.  Since they were planted in September I'd give them a good hose dousing once or twice a week into early December.  I have a drip setup in my garden (3 timers, 9 zones), and I'd probably put three 1gph drippers on that cluster, running 40 minutes each day.  That's 3 * 40 / 60 = 2 gallons per day.  I'd consider that a "supplemental" amount that's just enough to keep anything from going completely dry in a hot drought.  Maybe about the equivalent of a 5 gallon bucket a couple of times per week is a reasonable amount.

[sonoranfans]

On 11/2/2024 at 4:22 PM, Merlyn said:

@Eetrmlap I'd think a "small amount" at planting is unlikely to hurt anything.  There have been a couple of threads on this forum where people planted new palms with a 5lb bag of palm fertilizer, and then wondered why it died a month later... 

December is a good time to fertilize, IMO.  Some people say not to, but I can't find a scientific reason why.  In Central Florida (Tampa/Orlando/Daytona areas) the average soil temp is >50F except for the top couple of inches during unusual cold fronts.  So there's plenty of soil microbial activity, it's only dropped off by a few percent in the middle of January.  I found that if I fertilized in December then the palms seemed to start growing better in March, and had less obvious winter damage.  I'm sure I'm just "hoping" that it's true, but it seems to help.

 

Well the science indicates that fertilization in december when soil temps drop below 60F is a waste of fertilizer for a tropical palm like wodyetia.  Butias may feed and grow in winter here but tropical palms generally dont feed until soil temps go up to 60+  I wait till mid february to fertilize when the soil is warmer than 60F.  My logic is that I dont want to throw down NPK and have it just wash away into the water shed.  As far as fertilizing when planting, I dont do that, none.  Fertilier causes roots to burn if they are too close to a digesting prill which elevates the local pH.  Yeah maybe the burn is not too bad with a  light application, but Ive always been told by long term palm nurserymen to wait a couple months for NPK use.  Don't think that because they sell the palm they know all about it.  I have found the most knowledgable palm sources specialize in palms.  Your foxtails will be fine, do not over water this winter.  As temps drop watering frequency will need to be less to get the full dry cycle.

[Eetrmlap]

Sorry for the newb questions.    These palms were cheap so want to give them best chance to thrive.   All this information is helpful.   Agree the nurseries while well meaning probably give out bad info.    I already bought old school fat width clear white incandescent Christmas lights to string on the Foxtails in case we get any cold snaps in the low 20s this winter.

 

[Merlyn]

@Eetrmlap there are no n00b questions here, only questions by people new to palms!    I ran across this forum in 2018 while trying to figure out what kind of Phoenix I had.  5 years later I've transformed my yard from hurricane-disaster-prone water oaks into my little slice of badly-overplanted tropical heaven!  If you get bored you can scroll through the craziness here:

 

[Merlyn]

@sonoranfans I know we discussed this one to death in a previous thread, but in a typical year the average temp around here is at or above 60.  For example, this is the daily average for last January:

Except for the minimally cool couple of days on the 14th and 15th it was really mild.  I doubt the soil temp (at typical root depths) dropped below 60.  January 2022 was similar overall, with a typical average hovering around 60, ignoring the obvious 0F bad data points.

My 6 Butia kept plodding along at their slowish pace, but the Wodyetia drop about 1-2 fronds each winter.  They sure slow down from summer, but don't stop.  I'm not sure about Palmetto, but here in Orlando we only get about 1 inch of rain per month in Dec-Feb.  So NPK doesn't get washed away at all...it's probably less likely to get washed away in the winter than any other time of the year.

[Eetrmlap]

What app is that temperature trend from?

[Merlyn]

1 hour ago, Eetrmlap said:

What app is that temperature trend from?

Wunderground.com has reasonably accurate databases of temperature, wind, precipitation, etc.  For example, this is the January 2023 monthly history:

https://www.wunderground.com/history/monthly/us/fl/sanford/KSFB/date/2023-1

[sonoranfans]

soil temps are key in microbe activity

https://www.sound.ag/blog/sound-advice-making-dormant-microbes-work-for-you#:~:text=For most microbes%2C activity doubles,°F in some areas.

I use a 5 month controlled release, florikan and the prill membrane pores shrink with temperature thus limiting dissolution at lower soil temps.  This is not true for palm gain or osmocote, its a patent on different pore sizes response to temperature.  My intention is to limit the amount of fertilizer I put down that is not consumed by plants.  The rate of fertilizer uptake is limited by microbe activity which in turn is limited by soil temps.  A refereed article with measurements

https://academic.oup.com/femsec/article/52/1/49/483427

 

[Merlyn]

@sonoranfans here's the soil surface temperature data for 2022 in the Apopka station per FAWN:

The 10cm depth soil temp is noticeably higher than the air temperature.  Taking a couple of months averages and using the Respiration Rate from the article as a proxy in humus soil, since it is correlated up to about 30C:

• January = 18.3C = 46.6
• February = 19.7C = 52.1
• March = 23.9C = 70.4
• April = 26.2C = 81.6
• May = 29.6C = 99.8
• June = 31.3C = 109.5
• July = 31.1C = 108.3
• August = 30.7C = 106.0
• September = 29.5C = 99.2
• October = 26.3C = 82.2
• November = 23.7C = 69.5
• December = 19.7C = 52.1

So in December - February the average respiration rate is ~50.3.  In the middle of summer it's about twice that much at ~107.9.  Orlando is not Ohio, where the average January temperature is 28F = -2C and the respiration rate (microbial activity) is a whopping 1.4.  Sure the FL microbial activity is about half as much as in the summer, but the NPK diluting torrential afternoon rainfall into the watershed is less than 1/4 as much.  Unless I've got my wires crossed, the science says keep fertilizing in Central Florida all year.  Did I mess anything up in the above?

[sonoranfans]

5 hours ago, Merlyn said:

@sonoranfans I know we discussed this one to death in a previous thread, but in a typical year the average temp around here is at or above 60.  For example, this is the daily average for last January:

Except for the minimally cool couple of days on the 14th and 15th it was really mild.  I doubt the soil temp (at typical root depths) dropped below 60.  January 2022 was similar overall, with a typical average hovering around 60, ignoring the obvious 0F bad data points.

My 6 Butia kept plodding along at their slowish pace, but the Wodyetia drop about 1-2 fronds each winter.  They sure slow down from summer, but don't stop.  I'm not sure about Palmetto, but here in Orlando we only get about 1 inch of rain per month in Dec-Feb.  So NPK doesn't get washed away at all...it's probably less likely to get washed away in the winter than any other time of the year.

 

36 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

@sonoranfans here's the soil surface temperature data for 2022 in the Apopka station per FAWN:

The 10cm depth soil temp is noticeably higher than the air temperature.  Taking a couple of months averages and using the Respiration Rate from the article as a proxy in humus soil, since it is correlated up to about 30C:

• January = 18.3C = 46.6
• February = 19.7C = 52.1
• March = 23.9C = 70.4
• April = 26.2C = 81.6
• May = 29.6C = 99.8
• June = 31.3C = 109.5
• July = 31.1C = 108.3
• August = 30.7C = 106.0
• September = 29.5C = 99.2
• October = 26.3C = 82.2
• November = 23.7C = 69.5
• December = 19.7C = 52.1

So in December - February the average respiration rate is ~50.3.  In the middle of summer it's about twice that much at ~107.9.  Orlando is not Ohio, where the average January temperature is 28F = -2C and the respiration rate (microbial activity) is a whopping 1.4.  Sure the FL microbial activity is about half as much as in the summer, but the NPK diluting torrential afternoon rainfall into the watershed is less than 1/4 as much.  Unless I've got my wires crossed, the science says keep fertilizing in Central Florida all year.  Did I mess anything up in the above?

I think that depends partly on water cycling in  the soil.  To replenish fertilizer in the root zone after takeup, a new water/fertilizer input would be needed.  Dry cycle rate could be a limitation, though in high drainage sand it could be similar in winter and summer.  In sand you are probably washing lots of NPK into the watershed as it has high drainage and no cation exchange.  If you don't have cation exchange you will need to fertilize a lot and that can be expensive.  Sun exposure hours and metabolism of different species of palms could be a factor in the max amount they can use.  Some like it cool, others like it hot. You could be adding more than they will use.    If a plant grows 5x faster in summer vs winter, the fertilizer needs for winter should be small.  My royals are more than 5x faster in the heat.  In florida adding just a little potash solves  most deficiency problems in winter.  With a drop off in microbe activity, soil nutrient movement, and sunlight the potential for fertilizer usage by the plant should be down quite a lot.  That said I do have a couple Butia hybrids that love their winter feeding.

[Eetrmlap]

2 hours ago, sonoranfans said:

 

I think that depends partly on water cycling in  the soil.  To replenish fertilizer in the root zone after takeup, a new water/fertilizer input would be needed.  Dry cycle rate could be a limitation, though in high drainage sand it could be similar in winter and summer.  In sand you are probably washing lots of NPK into the watershed as it has high drainage and no cation exchange.  If you don't have cation exchange you will need to fertilize a lot and that can be expensive.  Sun exposure hours and metabolism of different species of palms could be a factor in the max amount they can use.  Some like it cool, others like it hot. You could be adding more than they will use.    If a plant grows 5x faster in summer vs winter, the fertilizer needs for winter should be small.  My royals are more than 5x faster in the heat.  In florida adding just a little potash solves  most deficiency problems in winter.  With a drop off in microbe activity, soil nutrient movement, and sunlight the potential for fertilizer usage by the plant should be down quite a lot.  That said I do have a couple Butia hybrids that love their winter feeding.

What to you recommend for potash or do you just use Florikan?

[sonoranfans]

1 hour ago, Eetrmlap said:

What to you recommend for potash or do you just use Florikan?

two types muriate of potash and sulfate of potash,  the former is more soluble and cheaper  the sulfate of potash will have slower longer delivery.  o might also use langbeinite which is slow release as well and adds magnesium.  I would prefer the sulfate of potash or langbeinite as slower release products.  My NPK fertilizer is exclusively florikan 8-2=12with 180 day delivery since  2011.  

[OC2Texaspalmlvr]

On 11/4/2024 at 6:24 AM, Merlyn said:

5 years later I've transformed my yard from hurricane-disaster-prone water oaks into my little slice of badly-overplanted tropical heaven

I absolutely love this statement haha So much truth ! 

T J